Crank position sensor to a bad main harness?? I'm getting ripped off!!!!
10-20-2003, 06:20 PM
#1
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Crank position sensor to a bad main harness?? I'm getting ripped off!!!!
I first started out with an error code P1336 = 0905 = Crankshaft Position Sensor. The dealership ran diagnostics and claims that I have a wire that is disconnected within the main wiring harness. They are telling me that it's going to cost $1,090 for the main wiring harness and $350 for labor to replace this. I'm freaking out here... Is there anything else that can be done? I told them to check if the sensor is bad, and the service manager tells me that it's impossible to do. The main tech says that it's not a good idea to slice through a main wire harness because some wires are insulated to prevent arking... Can somebody help me??
Yuriy
Yuriy
10-20-2003, 06:24 PM
#2
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Originally Posted by yuriy
I first started out with an error code P1336 = 0905 = Crankshaft Position Sensor. The dealership ran diagnostics and claims that I have a wire that is disconnected within the main wiring harness. They are telling me that it's going to cost $1,090 for the main wiring harness and $350 for labor to replace this. I'm freaking out here... Is there anything else that can be done? I told them to check if the sensor is bad, and the service manager tells me that it's impossible to do. The main tech says that it's not a good idea to slice through a main wire harness because some wires are insulated to prevent arking... Can somebody help me??
Yuriy
Yuriy
10-20-2003, 06:28 PM
#3
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car hesitates
Originally Posted by maxpol
How is your car running, or is it running at all? Be specific with any problems?If the wiring to or the crankshaft position itself was bad then the car would not start.
10-20-2003, 06:34 PM
#5
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1998 Nissan Maxima
Originally Posted by maxpol
arent you covered by warranty?
10-20-2003, 06:40 PM
#6
just wait and relax , with some help here on.org
your problem will get solved.
the worst thing is to freak out and let the dealer rape you for $1400 !!!
You need to try all other possibilities and if that fails than let dealer fix it.
I hope this helps
when I got my car , few days later CEL came on , I freaked out and brought it to dealer for $360 bill for simple EVAP canister valve stuck open.
next time I just buy the $45 part and fix it my self.
hope everything works out.
Nick.
your problem will get solved.
the worst thing is to freak out and let the dealer rape you for $1400 !!!
You need to try all other possibilities and if that fails than let dealer fix it.
I hope this helps
when I got my car , few days later CEL came on , I freaked out and brought it to dealer for $360 bill for simple EVAP canister valve stuck open.
next time I just buy the $45 part and fix it my self.
hope everything works out.
Nick.
10-21-2003, 08:16 PM
#9
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wiring harness issue
Originally Posted by maxpol
my fault , i misread the year you joined as the year of your car.
what is the year and how many miles do you have on it?
what is the year and how many miles do you have on it?
10-21-2003, 09:28 PM
#10
ok lets that it from the start. P1136-0905 is chipping of the signal plate (flywheel) gear teeth is detected by the ecm. possible causes, sensor , flywheel, or harness ( lets hope its not this)
As the "main" tech says that he pulls on the harness the signal goes in and out. If its thay he can find the open?break whatever it is by probing but he dosent feel like doing the work. any body with a multimeter , a schematic and some knowlege of circuits would do this. Once he find the problem he can easily run a new wire out of the harness system that would solve the problem. As far as the manager saying you cant test the sensor thats bull****! Tell him that on page EC-308 of the 97 Nissan Maxima FSM is a very nice test that will help out his stupid techs.
As the "main" tech says that he pulls on the harness the signal goes in and out. If its thay he can find the open?break whatever it is by probing but he dosent feel like doing the work. any body with a multimeter , a schematic and some knowlege of circuits would do this. Once he find the problem he can easily run a new wire out of the harness system that would solve the problem. As far as the manager saying you cant test the sensor thats bull****! Tell him that on page EC-308 of the 97 Nissan Maxima FSM is a very nice test that will help out his stupid techs.
10-21-2003, 10:04 PM
#11
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getting exhausted from the runaround!!
Originally Posted by Kashoggio
ok lets that it from the start. P1136-0905 is chipping of the signal plate (flywheel) gear teeth is detected by the ecm. possible causes, sensor , flywheel, or harness ( lets hope its not this)
As the "main" tech says that he pulls on the harness the signal goes in and out. If its thay he can find the open?break whatever it is by probing but he dosent feel like doing the work. any body with a multimeter , a schematic and some knowlege of circuits would do this. Once he find the problem he can easily run a new wire out of the harness system that would solve the problem. As far as the manager saying you cant test the sensor thats bull****! Tell him that on page EC-308 of the 97 Nissan Maxima FSM is a very nice test that will help out his stupid techs.
As the "main" tech says that he pulls on the harness the signal goes in and out. If its thay he can find the open?break whatever it is by probing but he dosent feel like doing the work. any body with a multimeter , a schematic and some knowlege of circuits would do this. Once he find the problem he can easily run a new wire out of the harness system that would solve the problem. As far as the manager saying you cant test the sensor thats bull****! Tell him that on page EC-308 of the 97 Nissan Maxima FSM is a very nice test that will help out his stupid techs.
10-21-2003, 10:07 PM
#12
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does it matter what model of 1998 Maxima I get the harness from?
I just wanted to double check on this. The tech told me that I need a specific harness just for my car in order for everything to work. Is it ok if I get a harness from a different 1998 Maxima, but not the same model? I just want to make sure they are compatible.. Anyone know?
10-22-2003, 05:44 AM
#13
Originally Posted by yuriy
How can the flywheel break? I get a weird noise when I first take off in first gear. But that could be something cause by the harness shifting. The tech tested the sensor with 140Volts and he said the sensor is fine. As far as the wiring harness, they refuse to find the wire because they don't want to cut the insulation of other wires. They claim that if they do cut, there may be arcing and my computer may also burn along with the rest of my wiring harness. I'm looking for a main wiring harness online and I found one for 275. I just want to make sure that I need this part 100% before I buy it. Any suggestions?
10-22-2003, 06:54 AM
#14
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Originally Posted by Kashoggio
ok lets that it from the start. P1136-0905 is chipping of the signal plate (flywheel) gear teeth is detected by the ecm. possible causes, sensor , flywheel, or harness ( lets hope its not this)
As the "main" tech says that he pulls on the harness the signal goes in and out. If its thay he can find the open?break whatever it is by probing but he dosent feel like doing the work. any body with a multimeter , a schematic and some knowlege of circuits would do this. Once he find the problem he can easily run a new wire out of the harness system that would solve the problem. As far as the manager saying you cant test the sensor thats bull****! Tell him that on page EC-308 of the 97 Nissan Maxima FSM is a very nice test that will help out his stupid techs.
As the "main" tech says that he pulls on the harness the signal goes in and out. If its thay he can find the open?break whatever it is by probing but he dosent feel like doing the work. any body with a multimeter , a schematic and some knowlege of circuits would do this. Once he find the problem he can easily run a new wire out of the harness system that would solve the problem. As far as the manager saying you cant test the sensor thats bull****! Tell him that on page EC-308 of the 97 Nissan Maxima FSM is a very nice test that will help out his stupid techs.
You have identified the bad wire. Your Nissan Mechanic already knows which of the wires it is that leads to the CPS. Now, if you can find where it goes into the ECU you can(or have a mechanic) run a separate replacement wire between the two points. This wire can run separately outside the wiring harness in a wire loom for protection. Be a heck of a lot cheaper and less hassle then replacing the whole engine harness. Your dealer probably wouldn't do this but a smaller ma and pa shop would.
10-22-2003, 04:37 PM
#16
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Ignition Harness Assembly
Originally Posted by ivelweyz
Also hesitation= bad Knock Sensor so that may be another problem you can look into...
I went to www.car-part.com and found a engine wiring harness that some guy has in a wrecked 98 maxima GXE(fully loaded). The question is, will it fit my car. This car is Canadian by the way. I don't know if this makes a difference, but I know that I need a "Ignition Harness Assembly". The Nissan dealership does not have any pictures of the wire to explain what it looks like. The guy in Canada tells me that he has a wrecked Maxima for parts and the wiring harness is still in the car. I ran the VIN and it gave me a different part number with the same description. I can't describe the wiring harness for him. I can only tell him what I need and hope that he knows what he's doing. Does the Ignition Harness Assembly wire into the main wiring harness? Will it fit my car? How many hours will this take(on average)? I'm a little nervous about this because I hope that this is the problem in the car and nothing else. I hope this will fix the car. If not, I don't know what to do with it anymore.
10-22-2003, 05:45 PM
#17
Originally Posted by yuriy
I went to www.car-part.com and found a engine wiring harness that some guy has in a wrecked 98 maxima GXE(fully loaded). The question is, will it fit my car. This car is Canadian by the way. I don't know if this makes a difference, but I know that I need a "Ignition Harness Assembly". The Nissan dealership does not have any pictures of the wire to explain what it looks like. The guy in Canada tells me that he has a wrecked Maxima for parts and the wiring harness is still in the car. I ran the VIN and it gave me a different part number with the same description. I can't describe the wiring harness for him. I can only tell him what I need and hope that he knows what he's doing. Does the Ignition Harness Assembly wire into the main wiring harness? Will it fit my car? How many hours will this take(on average)? I'm a little nervous about this because I hope that this is the problem in the car and nothing else. I hope this will fix the car. If not, I don't know what to do with it anymore.
10-22-2003, 06:28 PM
#18
Yeah, I agree with Kashoggio. Running a new wire is your best bet, and cheapest too. You could do it yourself too.
Identify which wire is broken with an ohmmeter and just cut and splice and solder (shrinkwrap the splice). You're all set.
For some reason, if you decide you want to change the harness, give me the part number off your original harness. I'll try to get you a list of compatible harness part numbers.
Part number will start with 24011 XXXXX (if it's on the engine). There will be a part number label taped to the harness somewhere. I didn't check to see where it is, but I can.
Identify which wire is broken with an ohmmeter and just cut and splice and solder (shrinkwrap the splice). You're all set.
For some reason, if you decide you want to change the harness, give me the part number off your original harness. I'll try to get you a list of compatible harness part numbers.
Part number will start with 24011 XXXXX (if it's on the engine). There will be a part number label taped to the harness somewhere. I didn't check to see where it is, but I can.
10-22-2003, 08:38 PM
#19
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Posts: 53
Originally Posted by pocketrocket
Yeah, I agree with Kashoggio. Running a new wire is your best bet, and cheapest too. You could do it yourself too.
Identify which wire is broken with an ohmmeter and just cut and splice and solder (shrinkwrap the splice). You're all set.
For some reason, if you decide you want to change the harness, give me the part number off your original harness. I'll try to get you a list of compatible harness part numbers.
Part number will start with 24011 XXXXX (if it's on the engine). There will be a part number label taped to the harness somewhere. I didn't check to see where it is, but I can.
Identify which wire is broken with an ohmmeter and just cut and splice and solder (shrinkwrap the splice). You're all set.
For some reason, if you decide you want to change the harness, give me the part number off your original harness. I'll try to get you a list of compatible harness part numbers.
Part number will start with 24011 XXXXX (if it's on the engine). There will be a part number label taped to the harness somewhere. I didn't check to see where it is, but I can.
10-22-2003, 09:20 PM
#20
You'd have to know how the circuits are wired. Disconnecct both sides, get an ohmetter and measure it to see if you read continuity.
If you do, you either have te wrong wires OR that's not your problem.
If that is it, it isn't the easiest to troubleshoot because you don't know where the break is. It's probably just easier to add a new wire and splice it in at both ends.
You have to be sure you know which circuits you are splicing in to, that would be the only caution.
If you do, you either have te wrong wires OR that's not your problem.
If that is it, it isn't the easiest to troubleshoot because you don't know where the break is. It's probably just easier to add a new wire and splice it in at both ends.
You have to be sure you know which circuits you are splicing in to, that would be the only caution.
10-23-2003, 05:13 AM
#21
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Posts: 118
Originally Posted by pocketrocket
You'd have to know how the circuits are wired. Disconnecct both sides, get an ohmetter and measure it to see if you read continuity.
If you do, you either have te wrong wires OR that's not your problem.
If that is it, it isn't the easiest to troubleshoot because you don't know where the break is. It's probably just easier to add a new wire and splice it in at both ends.
You have to be sure you know which circuits you are splicing in to, that would be the only caution.
If you do, you either have te wrong wires OR that's not your problem.
If that is it, it isn't the easiest to troubleshoot because you don't know where the break is. It's probably just easier to add a new wire and splice it in at both ends.
You have to be sure you know which circuits you are splicing in to, that would be the only caution.
Usually the wires maintain their color scheme on their run from the component to ECU. For instance, if a wire was black with a red stripe at the CPS it would be the same at the ECU, making it easier not to get off track where the 120 or so wires come into the ECU on the pin block. Wiring diagrams in the FSM or Haynes manual have the color coding listed for traceability.
10-23-2003, 07:46 PM
#22
Electrical Short Finder might help , you can buy one here , dirt cheap:http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=33779
10-24-2003, 10:18 AM
#23
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WOW guys way to rally behind this guy. This is a lot of great help here. Yuriy, I hope you are paying attention and reading these guys suggestions. Just calm down and use this advice. Also, I would think that a shop that specializes in eletrical systems could have this solved fairly quickly. Good luck and hope it all works out for ya.
10-24-2003, 11:15 AM
#24
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thank you for your help
I did not buy the wiring harness. One of the reasons why is, nobody warranties anything electrical on used parts. I know that the Nissan dealership refuses to check which of the wires are broken because I found diagrams of the wiring for the Cranshaft Position Sensor and the rest of the diagrams of where it goes in to. I don't have the time to do it myself because I'm a college student. I checked around town and I can't find any shop that does electrical stuff. I will pay $300 cash if someone can fix this problem. I live in Syracuse, NY. If you are near by (100 miles or so) Please call me at 1-315-415-4963. Part#24011-0L705. 2HU1 (160) Tech found open circut in the wiring harness. This is the only piece of paper they gave me. They did not give me any diagnostics of the crank position sensor or the coil packs, which is strange because when I spoke with the tech, he said he did. Why didn't they write it down? Anyways, let me know if you are close by. I will need to get this fixed within 1 day because of my schedule.
10-25-2003, 10:57 AM
#25
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where can I find the wiring diagrams for a 98?
Can someone tell me where I can find a wiring diagram for my 98 SE? I'm probably going to try doing this myself, but the mechanic says that the wire that is broken is not just a wire, it has a metal coating around it for special insulation. I want to make sure that it's the wire that they say it is. Please help.
10-26-2003, 08:32 AM
#26
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Part number 24011-0L705
Could you tell me what this thing looks like???
Originally Posted by pocketrocket
Yeah, I agree with Kashoggio. Running a new wire is your best bet, and cheapest too. You could do it yourself too.
Identify which wire is broken with an ohmmeter and just cut and splice and solder (shrinkwrap the splice). You're all set.
For some reason, if you decide you want to change the harness, give me the part number off your original harness. I'll try to get you a list of compatible harness part numbers.
Part number will start with 24011 XXXXX (if it's on the engine). There will be a part number label taped to the harness somewhere. I didn't check to see where it is, but I can.
Identify which wire is broken with an ohmmeter and just cut and splice and solder (shrinkwrap the splice). You're all set.
For some reason, if you decide you want to change the harness, give me the part number off your original harness. I'll try to get you a list of compatible harness part numbers.
Part number will start with 24011 XXXXX (if it's on the engine). There will be a part number label taped to the harness somewhere. I didn't check to see where it is, but I can.
10-03-2012, 02:01 PM
#27
I'm having a similar problem as yuriy, I get a p1336 CPS code. on my sons 1995. granted it has a junk yard motor, with the good old oil leaks. but she used to run like the wind.
I replaced all the coil packs. CPS and knock sensor,
I am going to trace the wires back to the ECM. that chipping of the flywheel explanation for code p1336 is crazy. they need to say possible short to the ecm. put it in plain English.
thanks for all the great threads ya'll.
I replaced all the coil packs. CPS and knock sensor,
I am going to trace the wires back to the ECM. that chipping of the flywheel explanation for code p1336 is crazy. they need to say possible short to the ecm. put it in plain English.
thanks for all the great threads ya'll.
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