1st gen mods
02-13-2006, 11:32 AM
#42
Member
Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 61
Coversion Process
I have an 83 1st gen maxima that I have converted to a 5-speed and changed out the factory diff.
I am thinking about taking this project a step further with an L28 conersion.
Does anyone know where to find a deteailed step-by-step guide for this conversion?
I am thinking about taking this project a step further with an L28 conersion.
Does anyone know where to find a deteailed step-by-step guide for this conversion?
02-14-2006, 09:11 PM
#43
Member
Join Date: Nov 2005
Posts: 85
L2.8 Motor in a 1 Gen
I have all ready put a L2.8 in my 82 Max and it's not that hard to do. The tricky part is drilling the block for the dip stick and the oil pick up. I am working on putting in a 280ZX turbo borg T-5 trans in as we speak. I all so had a question. I just installed the clutch lines and there is a part I put in and don't know what it does. It is called a clutch damper. If it dampens clutch engagement I will not use it. But if all it does is soften the cltch peddle that's good for a stiff clutch. SEE NO Z.
02-15-2006, 02:16 PM
#44
Member
Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 61
What is involved in drilling the block? How difficult is it to do. Does it need to be don't on a press or at a machine shop? I've got 2 1st gen maximas that I can get any parts off of as far as oil pan, sump tube are concerned.
When I did my conversion I transferred the complete clutch assembly over from an 84 maxima and it too had a clutch damper. I didn't know what it was for, so I took it apart and it is just a small piston inside a housing. My father and I decided that it made the clutch pedal easier to depress (presumably for smaller - women - drivers). That's what we think anyway. I like it in my car, I'd use it if I were you, but it is not something you must have.
When I did my conversion I transferred the complete clutch assembly over from an 84 maxima and it too had a clutch damper. I didn't know what it was for, so I took it apart and it is just a small piston inside a housing. My father and I decided that it made the clutch pedal easier to depress (presumably for smaller - women - drivers). That's what we think anyway. I like it in my car, I'd use it if I were you, but it is not something you must have.
02-15-2006, 08:08 PM
#45
Member
Join Date: Nov 2005
Posts: 85
Block drilling.
(Drilling the oil pick up tube)Get a real good drill bit that matches the oil pick up hole. When you take off the oil pan on the L2.8 you will see the oil pick up tube.Take it off and match the hole. You will see a spot on the block closer to the front of the motor. You will need to drill a hole. Befor you drill take off the timing cover and you will all so see a oil hole to the bottom front. The new pick up hole will intrude in to that hole. Then to block off the old oil pick up hole I cut out a small block off plate out of some 1/4 steel. Use the Maxima pick up tube and pan. ( Drilling out the dip stick ) You will want to look at the side of the motor and find a flat spot ware the factory did not drill but casted for a nother possible location. Then you will need to buy a fractional drill bit for a interence fit .Be vary careful and take your time. If you are going to have the motor rebuilt just have the shop do it. 
SEE NO Z
SEE NO Z
02-15-2006, 09:15 PM
#46
Member
Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 61
L28et Coversion...
SeeNoZ:
Cool. Thank you. Are there any other issues that you encountered during the conversion you could share? Any hiccups?
How are you managing the engine? I am getting a lot of recommendations to go to megasquirt, but harnesses and ECUs seem to be readily available and I am already familiar with the L24e FI setup, which I believe to be very similar to the L28 and L28et.
What type of diff are you running? I currently have a 4.11 from a 200SX, but will get rid of it if I do the L28et swap. I may go back to the 3.54 diff that is in my 84 AT parts car.
Cool. Thank you. Are there any other issues that you encountered during the conversion you could share? Any hiccups?
How are you managing the engine? I am getting a lot of recommendations to go to megasquirt, but harnesses and ECUs seem to be readily available and I am already familiar with the L24e FI setup, which I believe to be very similar to the L28 and L28et.
What type of diff are you running? I currently have a 4.11 from a 200SX, but will get rid of it if I do the L28et swap. I may go back to the 3.54 diff that is in my 84 AT parts car.
02-16-2006, 11:45 AM
#47
Member
Join Date: Nov 2005
Posts: 85
L2.8 Maxima
I am running the stock diff right now. I will be using an R200 when I do the trans over to the T-5. I am using 240Z carbs and a 260Z manifold with a Holley fuel pump in the back by the tank. I did this because the car was a diesel and it did not have any FI suff. The diesel FI is not compatible at all. But since you have an FI system I would try to use it. You have the FI head and manifold and I think you might be able to convert to the 280ZX ECU. If you are going to have a shop do the rebuild,dip stick and oil pick up work.I also would have flat top pistons installed to boost up the compression. And I forgot to tell you if you can get the pan and oil pick up from an LD2.8 diesel Max the pan has more oil capacity.
SEE NO Z.
SEE NO Z.
02-16-2006, 12:37 PM
#48
Member
Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 61
The plan is to use either a L28et or NA L28 in as complete form as I can get them. I would prefer to use the stock electronics (FI setup if at all possible). I was no planning on having the engine rebuilt.
But...after you drill and tap I would assume that you run a pretty high risk of getting shavings in the oli galleys or somehwere in the engine that would almost force you to have it rebuilt.
This concerns me...
But...after you drill and tap I would assume that you run a pretty high risk of getting shavings in the oli galleys or somehwere in the engine that would almost force you to have it rebuilt.
This concerns me...
02-16-2006, 12:37 PM
#49
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Jul 2005
Posts: 2
why not just put in a rb series skyline motor .. they are front sump just lik ethe maxima .. no drilling involved.. rb20det turbo 2.0 inline 6 you can get for like 1200 bucks for a clip in sacramento , ca. i will put a rb20det or rb25det in my 84 maxima. only thing ik was wondering about is do they make any sweet coilovers for drifting or a good suspenion setup .. i guess i will look into it more with 280zx suspension .. i have shortend struts and drop springs in front and rear.. i would like to get some adjustable dampning shocks and springs wher ei can set preload and shock and coil height like my 240sx :P
02-16-2006, 02:15 PM
#50
Member
Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 61
Originally Posted by twistex
why not just put in a rb series skyline motor ..
So many performance mods available for the L28 in the US, and you could do the whole converison for under 1200 bucks, even with the costs associated with relocating the sump.
02-17-2006, 06:11 PM
#51
Member
Join Date: Nov 2005
Posts: 85
Shavings
The oil galley in front,behind the timming cover and the new oil pick up hole are isolated to each other. Just ceep the motor tipped with the head to the oil filter side(10:00 to 11:00). Then when you are done drilling use WD40 to rinse it out. Now use B-12 carb cleaner to rinse. If you look and think about it the oil goes up the pick up in to the motor. Then goes to the front of the motor and in to the timming cover. Then the oil goes in to the oil pump and out of the pump in to the motor through the other hole at the front of the block. My point is if you rinse the isolated galley well no shavings.
SEE NO Z
SEE NO Z
02-17-2006, 08:00 PM
#52
Member
Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 61
Getting closer...
With what you say, along with a very experienced mechanic that has done this, it appears that it can be done without a teardown...very good.
Now, if I can find out if there are any clearance issues regarding the turbo housing and the steering shaft I will be well on my way. Chris Gray - you out there???
Now to find a good engine with intact FI management components.
Now, if I can find out if there are any clearance issues regarding the turbo housing and the steering shaft I will be well on my way. Chris Gray - you out there???
Now to find a good engine with intact FI management components.
02-18-2006, 03:08 PM
#53
Member
Join Date: Nov 2005
Posts: 85
Chris Gray.
I have not read any post from Gray for a while? He has a web page and an email address on that site. Good luck and keep us posted on your Max "maybe some pictures".I will be posting some pictures of my car as soon as get my head finished.
SEE NO Z
SEE NO Z
02-20-2006, 08:31 PM
#54
Member
Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 61
Out of it's cage
So I finally got the 83 out of storage and back to my house.
It is runnig rich with gas on the plugs, so I need to get that resolved so I can get it to pass emissions and get it licensed again.
I heard from Chris Gray and he relayed some very helpful information which I will put into my file for this conversion.
Thanks for the help, and if any ideas on this rich running situation, feel free to LMK. It will probably be later this week before I have time to start trying to diagnose it.
It is runnig rich with gas on the plugs, so I need to get that resolved so I can get it to pass emissions and get it licensed again.
I heard from Chris Gray and he relayed some very helpful information which I will put into my file for this conversion.
Thanks for the help, and if any ideas on this rich running situation, feel free to LMK. It will probably be later this week before I have time to start trying to diagnose it.
02-23-2006, 07:38 PM
#55
Member
Join Date: May 2004
Location: First generation rear driveland
Posts: 123
As far as fitting turbos.............to fit a t3 from a 280zx turbo, you need only to make a 3/4 or one inch spacer between the internal wastegate assembly and the elbow which is nothing more than a flat piece of metal with one large hole for the exhaust and then the holes for the bolts.
This will put that 280zx style (elbow is separate from wastegate housing) elbow far enough back to clear the steering shaft with almost stock looking clearances.
It turns out the 300zx elbow hits the steering shaft.
If you're already fabricating stuff up, you might as well get something special going on in the turbo department because some aftermarket stuff for other nissan applications will fit easily.
A 300zx turbo 4n71b with a rebuild and valve body modifications should be able to handle 500hp........as long as it doesn't get too hot.
The 300zx turbo 4n71b is different from the maxima 4n71b much in the same way that the 280zx turbo 3n71b is different from the non turbo 3n71b.
The turbo trannies have more beefy parts and the output shaft is a lot bigger.
I found this out when swapping parts back and forth on a few thousand nissans.
You also get the benefit of a modulator that is made for boost.
The front brakes are made for a completely different rotor offset than the 280zx and this is evident if anybody has put 280zx wheels on it.
I'm sure there is a way to use the 1988-1989 300zx turbo 4 piston calipers and rotors as stock 4 bolt z31 wheels will bolt straight on and fit 215/55-15 tires just fine with possibly only a bit of rubbing at extreme steering angles and suspension compression.
This means the offset is in the ballpark.
The shock mount on the rear control arms is at a different height by about 1 inch than the 280zx as well. This may offer some leeway for customizing either a 280zx with maxima arms or vice versa.
The 280zx rear driveshafts and r200 differential as an assembly (flange to flange) are the same width as the maxima's r180 and axles just as they are in 280zx cars but it's all different after you get outside the flanges.
I think I used a 200sx turbo differential mount to fit the r200.
Good luck trying to find an intercooler that won't stick out like a sore thumb unless you want to start moving the radiator around or cut the support out of the front bumper.
This will put that 280zx style (elbow is separate from wastegate housing) elbow far enough back to clear the steering shaft with almost stock looking clearances.
It turns out the 300zx elbow hits the steering shaft.
If you're already fabricating stuff up, you might as well get something special going on in the turbo department because some aftermarket stuff for other nissan applications will fit easily.
A 300zx turbo 4n71b with a rebuild and valve body modifications should be able to handle 500hp........as long as it doesn't get too hot.
The 300zx turbo 4n71b is different from the maxima 4n71b much in the same way that the 280zx turbo 3n71b is different from the non turbo 3n71b.
The turbo trannies have more beefy parts and the output shaft is a lot bigger.
I found this out when swapping parts back and forth on a few thousand nissans.
You also get the benefit of a modulator that is made for boost.
The front brakes are made for a completely different rotor offset than the 280zx and this is evident if anybody has put 280zx wheels on it.
I'm sure there is a way to use the 1988-1989 300zx turbo 4 piston calipers and rotors as stock 4 bolt z31 wheels will bolt straight on and fit 215/55-15 tires just fine with possibly only a bit of rubbing at extreme steering angles and suspension compression.
This means the offset is in the ballpark.
The shock mount on the rear control arms is at a different height by about 1 inch than the 280zx as well. This may offer some leeway for customizing either a 280zx with maxima arms or vice versa.
The 280zx rear driveshafts and r200 differential as an assembly (flange to flange) are the same width as the maxima's r180 and axles just as they are in 280zx cars but it's all different after you get outside the flanges.
I think I used a 200sx turbo differential mount to fit the r200.
Good luck trying to find an intercooler that won't stick out like a sore thumb unless you want to start moving the radiator around or cut the support out of the front bumper.
02-27-2006, 10:20 AM
#56
Member
Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 61
Going NA
I was able to pick up a parts car over the weekend that I plan on using for the conversion.
81 280zx, hit in the left rear quarter. NA, 5-speed. Driveline is in good shape.
I wanted to go turbo, but this time I around I think NA is the way to go.
81 280zx, hit in the left rear quarter. NA, 5-speed. Driveline is in good shape.
I wanted to go turbo, but this time I around I think NA is the way to go.
03-30-2006, 08:15 AM
#58
Member
Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 61
Soon...
I have finally got the car registered and back on the road after 2 years in storage. 2 bad injectors were cauing 5 and 6 cyls to foul out. Replaced. Problem solved.
I hope to get some pics of the car up soon. Should probably wash it first.
I hope to get some pics of the car up soon. Should probably wash it first.
03-30-2006, 07:39 PM
#60
Member
Join Date: Nov 2005
Posts: 85
Head games
Sounds good. I hope to be getting my 82 going soon. I dropped off my head at Rebello Racing here in Antioch Ca. The L2.8 ran strong with no valve gap and one flat lobe. It should fly after it gets fixed. I now have to find a 260Z N36 intake.
SEE NO Z
SEE NO Z
08-08-2006, 01:52 AM
#62
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Aug 2006
Posts: 3
Hey guys. new the forums here, Hows it all going. The downside to this is, i dont acuatlly have a gen1 maxima. But a hr30 Skyline coupe.
Im getting ready to do the l28 swap and chuck over all my l20et gear onto it. This is where my post comes into play.
can someone make a sticky, or go into detail with converting the l28 to the forward sump and dipstick setup. Thats the only thing holding me back. I'd like to get information from people who have actaully done this. Ive been getting alot of mixed opinons on this nothing detailed.
Thanks in advanced. (p.s dam the new posting law in here sucks)
Im getting ready to do the l28 swap and chuck over all my l20et gear onto it. This is where my post comes into play.
can someone make a sticky, or go into detail with converting the l28 to the forward sump and dipstick setup. Thats the only thing holding me back. I'd like to get information from people who have actaully done this. Ive been getting alot of mixed opinons on this nothing detailed.
Thanks in advanced. (p.s dam the new posting law in here sucks)
09-13-2006, 08:20 PM
#63
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Sep 2006
Posts: 1
Originally Posted by stagefumer11
Hey guys. new the forums here, Hows it all going. The downside to this is, i dont acuatlly have a gen1 maxima. But a hr30 Skyline coupe.
Im getting ready to do the l28 swap and chuck over all my l20et gear onto it. This is where my post comes into play.
can someone make a sticky, or go into detail with converting the l28 to the forward sump and dipstick setup. Thats the only thing holding me back. I'd like to get information from people who have actaully done this. Ive been getting alot of mixed opinons on this nothing detailed.
Thanks in advanced. (p.s dam the new posting law in here sucks)
Im getting ready to do the l28 swap and chuck over all my l20et gear onto it. This is where my post comes into play.
can someone make a sticky, or go into detail with converting the l28 to the forward sump and dipstick setup. Thats the only thing holding me back. I'd like to get information from people who have actaully done this. Ive been getting alot of mixed opinons on this nothing detailed.
Thanks in advanced. (p.s dam the new posting law in here sucks)
12-29-2006, 09:10 PM
#68
Member
Join Date: Nov 2005
Posts: 85
L 2.8 on the road!
Merry New Year guys. And it's starting out good for me. I just got my 82 Maxima running again. The L 2.8 is a blast and the Rebello head stays cool now with My new aluminum radiator and electric fan.
I will try to get some pictures on here soon.
SEE NO Z.
I will try to get some pictures on here soon.
SEE NO Z.
03-24-2007, 05:22 PM
#69
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Feb 2007
Posts: 12
Originally Posted by choochoofritz
If anyone is interested in maxima parts or whole cars. 81-84 one SWagon.let me know Choochoofritz. I purchased
these cars to fix up when my children were in High School.
these cars to fix up when my children were in High School.
01-09-2008, 04:22 PM
#73
01-10-2008, 12:58 PM
#76
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Jan 2008
Posts: 1
I just bought an 88' GXE with only 87k and was wondering what I am going to have to do to fix the speedometer (its the digital one). It will work about 3/4 of the time , but will sometimes go to 0. the guy I bought it from said that he called one place in town and they said they didnt really want to fix it but it would cost $400. I'm just trying to get this thing running like it should. other than that the car works pretty well , im gonna throw some new brake pads on it also.
