Picture of EVAP canister control Valve?
05-03-2004, 12:11 PM
#1
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Picture of EVAP canister control Valve?
Does anybody have a picture of thier EVAP canister control Valve? I'm pullong the codes for it and want to yank it out and clean it...but want to know what it looks like before I pull ou the wrong thing! lol
Thanks..
Thanks..
05-03-2004, 01:16 PM
#2
Originally Posted by Str8ridin
Does anybody have a picture of thier EVAP canister control Valve? I'm pullong the codes for it and want to yank it out and clean it...but want to know what it looks like before I pull ou the wrong thing! lol
Thanks..
Thanks..
The EVAP canister control valve is located behind the driver's side rear wheel. It looks like a 'black box' of sorts. Just disconnect and hoses/electrical connections going to it and take it off your car. Then you will see a kind of valve type thing screwed onto the box. Just unscrew that.
Now, if you look in the valve, you can see a plunger. When I took mine off and inspected it, the plunger was stuck. This is probably your case also. Just take some good ol WD40 and spray in there and move the plunger up and down with a screw driver or something to work it in.
Like I said, this is probably only a temp fix.
Hope that helps!
drew
05-03-2004, 01:51 PM
#3
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Originally Posted by bluemaxdriver4
Sorry, no pics, but I can tell you roughly how to fix that problem. Keep in mind, that what I'm about to tell you is probably just a temporary fix, not a solution to the problem. My CEL has never come back since I did this though...
The EVAP canister control valve is located behind the driver's side rear wheel. It looks like a 'black box' of sorts. Just disconnect and hoses/electrical connections going to it and take it off your car. Then you will see a kind of valve type thing screwed onto the box. Just unscrew that.
Now, if you look in the valve, you can see a plunger. When I took mine off and inspected it, the plunger was stuck. This is probably your case also. Just take some good ol WD40 and spray in there and move the plunger up and down with a screw driver or something to work it in.
Like I said, this is probably only a temp fix.
Hope that helps!
drew
The EVAP canister control valve is located behind the driver's side rear wheel. It looks like a 'black box' of sorts. Just disconnect and hoses/electrical connections going to it and take it off your car. Then you will see a kind of valve type thing screwed onto the box. Just unscrew that.
Now, if you look in the valve, you can see a plunger. When I took mine off and inspected it, the plunger was stuck. This is probably your case also. Just take some good ol WD40 and spray in there and move the plunger up and down with a screw driver or something to work it in.
Like I said, this is probably only a temp fix.
Hope that helps!
drew
05-03-2004, 02:52 PM
#4
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Join Date: Dec 2003
Posts: 172
Originally Posted by bluemaxdriver4
Sorry, no pics, but I can tell you roughly how to fix that problem. Keep in mind, that what I'm about to tell you is probably just a temporary fix, not a solution to the problem. My CEL has never come back since I did this though...
The EVAP canister control valve is located behind the driver's side rear wheel. It looks like a 'black box' of sorts. Just disconnect and hoses/electrical connections going to it and take it off your car. Then you will see a kind of valve type thing screwed onto the box. Just unscrew that.
Now, if you look in the valve, you can see a plunger. When I took mine off and inspected it, the plunger was stuck. This is probably your case also. Just take some good ol WD40 and spray in there and move the plunger up and down with a screw driver or something to work it in.
Like I said, this is probably only a temp fix.
Hope that helps!
drew
The EVAP canister control valve is located behind the driver's side rear wheel. It looks like a 'black box' of sorts. Just disconnect and hoses/electrical connections going to it and take it off your car. Then you will see a kind of valve type thing screwed onto the box. Just unscrew that.
Now, if you look in the valve, you can see a plunger. When I took mine off and inspected it, the plunger was stuck. This is probably your case also. Just take some good ol WD40 and spray in there and move the plunger up and down with a screw driver or something to work it in.
Like I said, this is probably only a temp fix.
Hope that helps!
drew
05-04-2004, 06:03 AM
#6
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Posts: 1,185
Originally Posted by phenryiv1
Nice- same here. I will give it a try.
Must the rear wheel be removed to get to it, or can it be handled from under the car w/o jacking it up?
Must the rear wheel be removed to get to it, or can it be handled from under the car w/o jacking it up?
05-04-2004, 06:29 AM
#8
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Originally Posted by lxl_MaximA_lxl
and basically what the evap does is help your car start????
0705
Diagnostic Trouble Code 0705 points to a problem with the Evaporative Emission Control System.
This malfunction is detected when the EVAP control system has a leak or the EVAP control system does not operate properly. (EVAP = EVAPorative emissions.)
Possible causes include...
- incorrect fuel tank vacuum relief valve
- incorrect fuel filler cap
- fuel filler cap vent remains open or fails to close
- foreign matter caught in fuel filler cap
- a leak in the line between the intake manifold and the
EVAP Canister Vacuum Control Valve
- foreign matter caught in the EVAP CVCV
- leaks in the EVAP canister or fuel tank
- leaks in the EVAP purge line (pipe and rubber tube)
- EVAP purge line rubber tube bent
- blocked or bent rubber tube to EVAP control system pressure sensor
- loose or disconnected rubber tube
- EVAP CVCV and circuit
- EVAP Canister Purge Volume Control Solenoid Valve and circuit
- absolute pressure sensor
- tank fuel temperature sensor
- MAP/BARO switch solenoid valve and circuit
- blocked or bent rubber tube to MAP/BARO switch solenoid valve
- O-ring of EVAP CVCV is missing or damaged
- water separator
- EVAP canister saturated with water
- EVAP control system pressure sensor
- refueling EVAP vapor cut valve
- ORVR system leaks
This is a "jackpot" DTC. It points to so many things you don't know what to check. It is often combined with another DTC which is more specific and therefore more helpful.
05-04-2004, 06:18 PM
#9
Originally Posted by Str8ridin
0705
Diagnostic Trouble Code 0705 points to a problem with the Evaporative Emission Control System....
...This is a "jackpot" DTC. It points to so many things you don't know what to check. It is often combined with another DTC which is more specific and therefore more helpful.
Diagnostic Trouble Code 0705 points to a problem with the Evaporative Emission Control System....
...This is a "jackpot" DTC. It points to so many things you don't know what to check. It is often combined with another DTC which is more specific and therefore more helpful.
I got a code 0705 and 0309 which the 0309 states in my Haynes manual as 'EVAP canister vent control valve open' which was exactly my problem!
**HINT** **HINT** Invest in a Haynes manual, it can be a life saver!
drew
05-04-2004, 07:10 PM
#10
right now i have the same codes as you do bluemaxdriver4. I've been trying to figure out how to fix it and i just got the haynes today but haven't got a chance to look through it. When and if you fix yours let me know what you did so i can fix mine.
05-04-2004, 07:53 PM
#11
Originally Posted by abci30
right now i have the same codes as you do bluemaxdriver4. I've been trying to figure out how to fix it and i just got the haynes today but haven't got a chance to look through it. When and if you fix yours let me know what you did so i can fix mine.
Originally Posted by bluemaxdriver4
Sorry, no pics, but I can tell you roughly how to fix that problem. Keep in mind, that what I'm about to tell you is probably just a temporary fix, not a solution to the problem. My CEL has never come back since I did this though...
The EVAP canister control valve is located behind the driver's side rear wheel. It looks like a 'black box' of sorts. Just disconnect and hoses/electrical connections going to it and take it off your car. Then you will see a kind of valve type thing screwed onto the box. Just unscrew that.
Now, if you look in the valve, you can see a plunger. When I took mine off and inspected it, the plunger was stuck. This is probably your case also. Just take some good ol WD40 and spray in there and move the plunger up and down with a screw driver or something to work it in.
Like I said, this is probably only a temp fix.
Hope that helps!
drew
The EVAP canister control valve is located behind the driver's side rear wheel. It looks like a 'black box' of sorts. Just disconnect and hoses/electrical connections going to it and take it off your car. Then you will see a kind of valve type thing screwed onto the box. Just unscrew that.
Now, if you look in the valve, you can see a plunger. When I took mine off and inspected it, the plunger was stuck. This is probably your case also. Just take some good ol WD40 and spray in there and move the plunger up and down with a screw driver or something to work it in.
Like I said, this is probably only a temp fix.
Hope that helps!
drew
It's alright, I'll give ya some slack since your a noob.... hehe
drew
05-05-2004, 04:27 AM
#12
There are numerous hoses and canisters down there. Is this the largest of the boxes? I went to buy a haynes but the parts store was all out of them. If I don't get more info today, I will try to find another store w/ a Haynes...
05-05-2004, 04:54 AM
#13
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Join Date: Feb 2002
Posts: 80
BE SURE to call Nissan before you do anything. This was the subject of a recall on most '96 Maximas. The recall will replace the vent control valve, inspect the charcoal (EVAP) cannister (replace if necessary), and add some new doo-dads to the EVAP system to help ensure it runs okay in the future. Don't tinker too much and void the recall if it hasn't been done to your car yet.
The recall was issued in 1998, so if you bought your car used after that, the car may have already had this service done to it. Even if it did, its kinda common for the EVAP vent control valve to still go bad (just poor engineering I guess).
A new direct replacement vent control valve will go for about $30 from Courtesy Nissan. A newer valve is available from most Nissan dealers for about $65-70.
The recall was issued in 1998, so if you bought your car used after that, the car may have already had this service done to it. Even if it did, its kinda common for the EVAP vent control valve to still go bad (just poor engineering I guess).
A new direct replacement vent control valve will go for about $30 from Courtesy Nissan. A newer valve is available from most Nissan dealers for about $65-70.
05-05-2004, 05:31 AM
#14
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Join Date: Sep 2001
Posts: 1,185
Originally Posted by crashmanmike
BE SURE to call Nissan before you do anything. This was the subject of a recall on most '96 Maximas. The recall will replace the vent control valve, inspect the charcoal (EVAP) cannister (replace if necessary), and add some new doo-dads to the EVAP system to help ensure it runs okay in the future. Don't tinker too much and void the recall if it hasn't been done to your car yet.
The recall was issued in 1998, so if you bought your car used after that, the car may have already had this service done to it. Even if it did, its kinda common for the EVAP vent control valve to still go bad (just poor engineering I guess).
A new direct replacement vent control valve will go for about $30 from Courtesy Nissan. A newer valve is available from most Nissan dealers for about $65-70.
The recall was issued in 1998, so if you bought your car used after that, the car may have already had this service done to it. Even if it did, its kinda common for the EVAP vent control valve to still go bad (just poor engineering I guess).
A new direct replacement vent control valve will go for about $30 from Courtesy Nissan. A newer valve is available from most Nissan dealers for about $65-70.
Thanks again for the tip..
05-05-2004, 05:41 AM
#15
I am in an interesting boat on the recall note- my 97 Infiniti has SOME 97+ maxiima parts and SOME 95-96 Maxima parts...Is there a place (website) to check using the VIN to see if the recall applies?
05-06-2004, 04:35 AM
#17
Well, I got a Haynes and went to clean/lube the control valve, but all did not go well. Check out my results here: https://maxima.org/forums/showthread...74#post2929974
05-11-2004, 06:36 AM
#18
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Join Date: Sep 2001
Posts: 1,185
Originally Posted by phenryiv1
Well, I got a Haynes and went to clean/lube the control valve, but all did not go well. Check out my results here: https://maxima.org/forums/showthread...74#post2929974
05-11-2004, 07:03 AM
#19
Originally Posted by Str8ridin
That sucks dude. The same thing happend to me too....the right bolt just kept spinning. But I was able to swivel it around, spray WD-40 in the valve, get the valve loose with a screw driver and put it back together. The CEL hasn't come on for the past 1000 miles, so I think I fixed my problem!
05-11-2004, 07:06 AM
#20
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Originally Posted by phenryiv1
I did the same swivel-spray-replace tactic and when I reset it has stayed off for 2 days. Keeping them crossed. My concern is that it looked like the plunger may have been cut or split, but so far so good...I plan to do an OBD scan tomorrow if it is still off, just to be sure that it is corrected really and the CEL is just not staying off erroniously.
05-18-2013, 05:16 PM
#21
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Posts: 2
I did the same swivel-spray-replace tactic and when I reset it has stayed off for 2 days. Keeping them crossed. My concern is that it looked like the plunger may have been cut or split, but so far so good...I plan to do an OBD scan tomorrow if it is still off, just to be sure that it is corrected really and the CEL is just not staying off erroniously.
05-18-2013, 05:33 PM
#22
You just bumped an ancient thread!!
Make sure you get OEM coilpacks!!!
05-19-2013, 06:56 AM
#24
You will not get flammed for using the search function or posting in an old thread that has a solution for an ongoing and relevant problem.
Congrats on doing the right thing and not starting a new thread.
Andy
Congrats on doing the right thing and not starting a new thread.
Andy
04-04-2015, 04:25 PM
#25
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Join Date: Sep 2012
Posts: 227
I did the same swivel-spray-replace tactic and when I reset it has stayed off for 2 days. Keeping them crossed. My concern is that it looked like the plunger may have been cut or split, but so far so good...I plan to do an OBD scan tomorrow if it is still off, just to be sure that it is corrected really and the CEL is just not staying off erroniously.
04-16-2015, 01:08 PM
#27
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Join Date: Sep 2012
Posts: 227
ok I was checking readiness and everything was ready except evac code p0440.. Oil the the plunger to and move it up and down..look at the canister inside looked good check hose connection also good and check under the hood hose and look good.. Just wondering if it is the gas cap? So i took it off look at the seal it seems not ply able so I put some trans fluid on it to soft it up hope for good seal .. I know I'm cheap but this is a pita.. Got to pass emissions .. Any help thanks
09-27-2019, 06:27 AM
#28
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09-28-2019, 05:56 PM
#31
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Posts: 3,041
I had a few months of Evap codes after I bought the 98 model. It turned out the canister was bad and let charcoal clog the line. So I had to disconnect the line at the control valve in the engine compartment, then again at the canister and apply 125 lbs of compressed air to clear the clogged line. When the clog finally cleared, it dumped a cup of charcoal on the driveway.
The canister for the 98 model was a low cost part. The 99 models are considerably more expensive. I would replace an old canister as preventative maintenance because they can leak charcoal and cause all kinds of Evap headaches.
Here's a Maxima with charcoal all in the line from a bad Evap canister.
The canister for the 98 model was a low cost part. The 99 models are considerably more expensive. I would replace an old canister as preventative maintenance because they can leak charcoal and cause all kinds of Evap headaches.
Here's a Maxima with charcoal all in the line from a bad Evap canister.
Last edited by CS_AR; 09-28-2019 at 06:01 PM.
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