fflan513

I ocassionally have to "jiggle" the key in the ignition switch a little to get the car to start though it usually starts right up I don't want to wait until the situation progresses to a "non-start".

I got a "free/courtesy" check up at the dealer today and was told I need to replace the electrical portion of the ignition switch (PART#48750-1E411) . Anyone know how to replace this or have a link to a step-by-step on the subject?

thx in advance for your help.

MIXXMAX

iTrader: (1)

All you do is remove the cover plate around the steering wheel column. It is held on by 4 phillips type screws. You will need a long screwdriver to access these. Once the cover is removed, the ignition switch is on the left side of the steering wheel (opposite side of the cylinder switch). Disconnect plug harness and all connectors. Remove two outer screws on switch ( the ones with no wires attached to them). Slide switch out and replace with new one. Your done.

fflan513

Thanks, I love it when it's a do-it-yourselfer. Sounds simple enough; I'll change it out tomorrow and post back.

Again thx.

fflan513

Well, I replaced the ignition switch, it took about 40 minutes total; taking off the old one and doing the replacement. The car starts on every crank now.

One little detail, there are 6 phillips type screws and you need to remove a bracket under the steering column to remove the last two screws but that was no real trouble.
Thanks so much for your help. I'm very pleased the job is done and saved some "dealer" cash.

Below is a picture of the old switch (FYI):

Ramius83

By the way, how much was that new part? Mine is pretty mangled up when I was installing my remote car starter......

fflan513

The part was $27.77 + tax =30.06

Nissan Part# 48750 - 1E411 (switch assy-ign)

Thorby

Excellent posts. I might try this real soon, my switch is failing too. Thanx MIXXMAX. Anybody got pics? I just feel better if pics go along with the explanation...

PhaZe

Does this require a new key? My max does not start on the first try anymore, I have to do it at a certain angle. I think a new ignition switch should fix it, but I don't want to have another key.

MadAboutMax

is the ignition switch and starter switch the same thing...sorry if its a dumb ?.

|Bijan|

iTrader: (12)

No it's 2 different things

ddurandd

Thanks for the advice and tips above. I just did mine in about 40 minutes. I noticed that I had to turn the key all the way firmly until it stopped before the car would start. I suspect it would have eventually stopped working altogether. Now the key works much better.

One more bit of advice that I found in my car... In addition to the metal bracket under the steering column, I had to remove the plastic cover underneath the dashboard around the fuse box (two more screws). This gave me access to the two screws holding the metal bracket.

ardika

iTrader: (3)

Thanks to this thread I did not get raped by dealership. Towed the car to dealer parking area, bought the part for $35, installed it within an hour. Superb instruction, although I was very thankful I had the KYB AGX small flathead screwdriver. Without that, I would have not been able to take the assy off the cylinder block.

I spent more time putting everything together rather than taking them apart.

PAREDLINE

You dont need a new key. The key part is separate but they attach together

Jatan

iTrader: (3)

OEM part cheaper than most aftermarket lol

AutoZone:
WELLS LS812 $49.99

Advance Auto:
GP Sorensen S181 Ignition Switch $49.88
Niehoff Ignition IG22441 $27.99

I guess I'll call up a dealer for a price check or I'll just buy the $28 one from Advance

MAXDADDY98

iTrader: (6)

I really got to do this THANK YOU for starting this thread fflan513 I thought i was going crazy because i changed the starter and still the car has the similiar problem everyone here is having once it does'nt turnover the first time i kinda have to leave the key on ACC for a few secs then turn it again then it starts and the weird thing is that it dones that most of the time when the car is in the heat so I park it in the shade then everything is somewhat better

MAXDADDY98

iTrader: (6)

Jatan you can probably help me out since your in Chicago

Jatan

iTrader: (3)

Doesn't look too bad - will price check tomorrow and install it soon

I'm by Kimball/Lawrence

MAXDADDY98

iTrader: (6)

Huh!!! North Side I use to live on Broadway and Irving Pk I know where Kimball/Lawrence is when you buy the part let me know too and I buy it with you too. then we can install it

i30ds

iTrader: (8)

I got mine for $19 from everythingnissan...

MIXXMAX

iTrader: (1)

Wow! Do you realize how old this thread is? I just noticed I posted a response to this over two years ago.

MAXDADDY98

iTrader: (6)

Damn I didn't see that it was this old

Jatan

iTrader: (3)

Better than creating a new thread

i30ds

iTrader: (8)

+1^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

MaximaSE96

iTrader: (8)

my 96 failed completely.....but for some reason i had to replace the whole cylinder....i think maybe i got robbed

i30ds

iTrader: (8)

Yes you did...

MDeezy

iTrader: (27)

Wow way to bring a thread back to life

ardika

iTrader: (3)

BTW, just for the record, changing this switch gave me back at least 10 lb-ft. The reason I said this because, whenever I drive my gf's max, her SE would accelerate in 4th gear even though the rpm stays almost constant (try 60mph in full locked, i.e. 5th gear, and then try to depress the pedal enough to make the tranny downshift to 4th).

However, it apparently still kept its "symptom", which makes the car unable to start. A quick remedy by pressing the brake and running the auto stick through all selections (PRND21) still works, so I believe there's another switch that connects the ignition to tranny lever position sensor that's loose or start to fail.

That would have to wait for another day. In the mean time, I am enjoying my "new" Maxima. Boy oh boy, now I could drive it properly. It's a strange thing to note that I could feel the extra "oomph" in this car when I upgrade its electrical stuff. First it was the alternator and now this. I have Y and UDP, but now the car IS faster.

PAREDLINE

Ardika, you need a new neutral safety switch. That will cure your having to run through all the gears to start your car.

ardika

iTrader: (3)

PAREDLINE:

Neutral Safety Switch, eh? Do you know the part number of the $$$ involved in this?

Thank you

PAREDLINE

Rockauto lists the part at 109.79 (brand = Standard)

It's actually half price from Nissan. Pinnaclenissan.com lists it at 73.96 and your cost is 55.47.

I looked up a 1998 maxima GXE. I do not know what you have and you did not specify. They should all be the same.

I don't know the part number. but it's located on the side of the shift lever. Under the plastic console. Not very hard to replace.

ardika

iTrader: (3)

PAREDLINE:

Found it at everythingnissan.com, and yes, it was $55.46. I wonder what this switch looks like...... $55 is pretty pricey (I know....everything being relative), but I will investigate this with my Haynes manual.

Thanks for your pointer though, it was really helpful. Mine is 97 GXE Auto, but it should all be the same for all years.

Thanks again!

Crockpot

Would a faulty neutral safety switch restrict me from actually turning the key? I sometimes have to jiggle/move the wheel to get the key to actually go from the off to any other position.

ardika

iTrader: (3)

No, I don't think so. If you lock the wheel when it's off, you have to joggle the wheel to turn the key on.

Crockpot

Yes, I have been 'joggling' the wheel when this happens, but each time its becoming more of a pain in the @ss, taking longer to get the key to turn.. my friends can't even start my car ne more, like trying to hit its' damn g-spot

PAREDLINE

G-spot ey.... step away from the vehicle

If you lock the steering wheel before you put the key in to start the car, you'll have to turn the wheel a little before the key turns.

Unfortunately that's how the cars were designed. This has nothing to do with your neutral switch. All of our cars do this.

MaxKlinger

Does anyone have a step-by-step writeup of the ignition switch replacement with photos? I'd like to have one to go by. If there isn't one, I'll make it as I go along and post it online somewhere.

My ignition switch is getting to the point where I have to turn it to "start" and then pull up on the key to get it to start. Then it fires right up.

As for the neutral safety switch - the point of this switch is so that you can only start the car in neutral or in park. When the car is in R, D, 2, or 1, it should not be able to start. If the car was in gear while you started it, the car might move and potentially cause an accident or run over a little kid or something. A buddy of mine had a POS '91 Firebird (3.1L V6 Automatic) that (among other more serious problems) only started in reverse, so you had to be extra careful...

Crockpot

gah, I know damm well about the wheel lock, and how it works. Its not acting normal, taking much more effort/jiggling to turn the key. Hard to explain over the net

PAREDLINE

Its really easy to change the switch. Its not something that can really be written up. Its like changing a tire. Once you do it you're surprised how easy it is. Just need a phillips screwdriver and a 10mm socket.

MIXXMAX

iTrader: (1)

It sounds like your problem is with the key cylinder, not the ignition switch. The ignitions switch is only a contact-like switch for different points on the key cylinder switch (acc,on, start, etc.) while turning the key. You might want to look into this if you have to lift up on the key in order to start. Or, maybe, even better yet, get a multi-meter and check the voltage across the contacts of the ignition switch while turning the key at all points of the key cylinder. Also, check to see if the contacts are even good around the ignition switch.

MaxKlinger

Crap, if it's the key cylinder, that means I need a new key, right? I'd also presume that that's a dealer part?

Before I jump to conclusions I'm going to have to test everything, as you suggested. I'll have to save that project for next weekend...