*NOOBIES* The "I am new here,but have a question" thread..(post your questions here)
07-27-2010, 10:17 PM
#5643
Junior Member
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 29
well, then does anyone else maybe know??
btw, my shifter bushings do need to be changed lol it does have alot of play in gear and neutral so ill get that done.. also, sometimes when i try to put the car in gear, it wont go.. I have to pull or push to neutral and then back to the gear i want a couple times and then it goes in but kinda feels like it crunches into gear, but only sometimes it does it.. Shifting is very rough like as if the shifter vibrates as if you can feel the gear spinning.. Like there is no cushion or something.. especially my reverse gear, its a 5spd so people know lol but my reverse is really hard to get into.. Sometimes i have to go through all the gears, and then to reveres and it will go in.. Whats the cause of this problem??
btw, my shifter bushings do need to be changed lol it does have alot of play in gear and neutral so ill get that done.. also, sometimes when i try to put the car in gear, it wont go.. I have to pull or push to neutral and then back to the gear i want a couple times and then it goes in but kinda feels like it crunches into gear, but only sometimes it does it.. Shifting is very rough like as if the shifter vibrates as if you can feel the gear spinning.. Like there is no cushion or something.. especially my reverse gear, its a 5spd so people know lol but my reverse is really hard to get into.. Sometimes i have to go through all the gears, and then to reveres and it will go in.. Whats the cause of this problem??
07-28-2010, 07:11 AM
#5644
well, then does anyone else maybe know??
btw, my shifter bushings do need to be changed lol it does have alot of play in gear and neutral so ill get that done.. also, sometimes when i try to put the car in gear, it wont go.. I have to pull or push to neutral and then back to the gear i want a couple times and then it goes in but kinda feels like it crunches into gear, but only sometimes it does it.. Shifting is very rough like as if the shifter vibrates as if you can feel the gear spinning.. Like there is no cushion or something.. especially my reverse gear, its a 5spd so people know lol but my reverse is really hard to get into.. Sometimes i have to go through all the gears, and then to reveres and it will go in.. Whats the cause of this problem??
btw, my shifter bushings do need to be changed lol it does have alot of play in gear and neutral so ill get that done.. also, sometimes when i try to put the car in gear, it wont go.. I have to pull or push to neutral and then back to the gear i want a couple times and then it goes in but kinda feels like it crunches into gear, but only sometimes it does it.. Shifting is very rough like as if the shifter vibrates as if you can feel the gear spinning.. Like there is no cushion or something.. especially my reverse gear, its a 5spd so people know lol but my reverse is really hard to get into.. Sometimes i have to go through all the gears, and then to reveres and it will go in.. Whats the cause of this problem??
your starting problem could be a loose wire connection that doesn't make full contact when you're on a hill. does it matter if you're parked up or down the hill or sideways on the hill just that you're on a hill at all.
07-28-2010, 01:00 PM
#5647
Junior Member
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 29
too late.. motor blew like an hour ago on the freeway.. no more max and i never got it fixed to truely drive it like i wanted to and even hear the actual sound of the vg motor because of a major exhaust leak.. absolute worst car i ever had
07-28-2010, 01:09 PM
#5649
07-28-2010, 01:23 PM
#5650
07-29-2010, 08:47 AM
#5652
Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Redcliffe, Western Australia
Posts: 32
my transmission is broken, and i want to put all good bits in it, are there any performance orientated valve bodies available for the VG auto? and before you tell me to get a manual it's not covered by the warranty and I'm in Australia where they don't exist, plus i have an auto restricted license so i don't want one 
07-29-2010, 09:02 AM
#5653
07-29-2010, 09:17 AM
#5654
Junior Member
Join Date: Mar 2010
Posts: 25
ok, cant deal with having no cup holders anymore, and want to put in one of those single DIN cup holders, found one on ebay i think may fit but i want your input on other options or a better site with better products. basically, sick of having no cup holders. E brake gets old. just reply with what u have done, seen done. thank you
07-29-2010, 09:21 AM
#5655
Junior Member
Join Date: Mar 2010
Posts: 25
its a 1990 maxi, found this on ebay, http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/93-97...item27b39ed107 but am a bit sceptical.
07-29-2010, 11:36 AM
#5656
ok, cant deal with having no cup holders anymore, and want to put in one of those single DIN cup holders, found one on ebay i think may fit but i want your input on other options or a better site with better products. basically, sick of having no cup holders. E brake gets old. just reply with what u have done, seen done. thank you
im working on a cup holder mod. not done yet tho, ill make a thread when its done.
Last edited by nyc_ink; 07-29-2010 at 11:40 AM.
07-31-2010, 12:05 PM
#5657
I dont feel like creating a whole new thread for this, but does anyone know how difficult it is to replace the fuel lines from the tank on a VG? I am looking at one for my girl, but the car was stolen a couple of weeks ago, and they cut the fuel lines... the car runs fine otherwise.. just wondering if anyone knew what needs to be done?
08-01-2010, 01:40 PM
#5658
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Aug 2010
Posts: 2
Hello all!
I recently purchased a 94 Maxima GXE at 170k, VG30E engine of course. Bought the car because I also own a 86 300zx with that engine, and know it's highly reliable. The car according to Carfax has only had two owners, and spent most of it's life in Florida.
In any case, the engine had leaky valve cover gaskets, so I had a friend who has tools (some idiot stole mine. GRRR) pop the covers off, where we found a CRAPLOAD of oil sludge everywhere. It looks like someone took hot roofing tar and splashed everything with a good 1/8+" layer of it. The friend says he used to work at a engine rebuilding shop, and this is one of the worst he's seen. He recommends selling the car immediately so I don't end up with a dead car and no money. I assume this was caused by one of two things: lack of sufficient oil changes, or overheating. I mentioned overheating because the car also has a brand new radiator the previous owner must have installed before selling it. Everything else about the car seems great, runs good, shifts fine, etc. Only problem I've had is a rough idle when it's cold outside and the engine isn't warmed up (temp sensor not kicking in cold enrich?) and a code for a bad O2 sensor.
Soooo, what's the popular opinion here? I hate to let the car go, I only paid $1500 for it, and my girlfriend who I bought it for loves it.
I recently purchased a 94 Maxima GXE at 170k, VG30E engine of course. Bought the car because I also own a 86 300zx with that engine, and know it's highly reliable. The car according to Carfax has only had two owners, and spent most of it's life in Florida.
In any case, the engine had leaky valve cover gaskets, so I had a friend who has tools (some idiot stole mine. GRRR) pop the covers off, where we found a CRAPLOAD of oil sludge everywhere. It looks like someone took hot roofing tar and splashed everything with a good 1/8+" layer of it. The friend says he used to work at a engine rebuilding shop, and this is one of the worst he's seen. He recommends selling the car immediately so I don't end up with a dead car and no money. I assume this was caused by one of two things: lack of sufficient oil changes, or overheating. I mentioned overheating because the car also has a brand new radiator the previous owner must have installed before selling it. Everything else about the car seems great, runs good, shifts fine, etc. Only problem I've had is a rough idle when it's cold outside and the engine isn't warmed up (temp sensor not kicking in cold enrich?) and a code for a bad O2 sensor.
Soooo, what's the popular opinion here? I hate to let the car go, I only paid $1500 for it, and my girlfriend who I bought it for loves it.
then change oil and filter at 1000 miles. Do this for at least 4000 miles and
you should see a much cleaner engine. NO I don't own stock in Sea Foam I just like it.
08-01-2010, 01:57 PM
#5659
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Aug 2010
Posts: 2
I'm new to this forum and need some help. To wit where is the turn signal relay/flasher on my 89 Maxima? No turn signals either side, good bulbs and fuse. tried
new flasher in 3 sockets beside fuse block under dash ( not labeled but same coil and contact as new one) No flashey-flashey> Anybody have a guess? Thanks.
new flasher in 3 sockets beside fuse block under dash ( not labeled but same coil and contact as new one) No flashey-flashey> Anybody have a guess? Thanks.
08-01-2010, 02:08 PM
#5660
I'm new to this forum and need some help. To wit where is the turn signal relay/flasher on my 89 Maxima? No turn signals either side, good bulbs and fuse. tried
new flasher in 3 sockets beside fuse block under dash ( not labeled but same coil and contact as new one) No flashey-flashey> Anybody have a guess? Thanks.
new flasher in 3 sockets beside fuse block under dash ( not labeled but same coil and contact as new one) No flashey-flashey> Anybody have a guess? Thanks.
And you didn't need to answer a question that was asked back in Dec 07 to post a question.
08-02-2010, 12:39 AM
#5662
08-02-2010, 12:57 AM
#5663
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Jan 2009
Posts: 4
Last edited by ambyrell1; 08-02-2010 at 01:01 AM.
08-02-2010, 05:20 AM
#5664
Do you know how I can find out about the other engines Nissan made? The engine looks a lot like this one except for the red valve covers http://www.caraudiohelp.com/nissan_m...e_tutorial.htm[IMG]file:///C:/Users/amber/AppData/Local/Temp/moz-screenshot.png[/IMG]
if (aside from the valve cover color) the engine looks the same, it is. this is the vg30e, shared with dozens of other vehicle (including ford/mercury) and produced for 20 years in various forms
08-02-2010, 05:22 AM
#5665
08-02-2010, 06:03 AM
#5666
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Jan 2009
Posts: 4
That is the motor! The problem is that my sister purchased a motor for her 94 Maxima SE and was sent this motor. What all will have to be changed for this to work? Her old motor was the variable valve timing engine.
08-02-2010, 07:17 AM
#5667
Junior Member
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Spokane WA
Posts: 80
So I need to change the rear struts on my newly accuired 1993 maxima, I have never done this task and my chiltins book only covers up to 1992, is the 1993 different. I believe I have the standard model, (no ABS, VG, auto, no spoiler, rear drum brakes, side mirrors same color as body, no moon roof) is this a hard task? I have just finished a tranny swap on this car but I have done that before, I have several maxx's just never a 1993 and never done the rear struts. Any advise?
08-02-2010, 08:04 AM
#5668
So I need to change the rear struts on my newly accuired 1993 maxima, I have never done this task and my chiltins book only covers up to 1992, is the 1993 different. I believe I have the standard model, (no ABS, VG, auto, no spoiler, rear drum brakes, side mirrors same color as body, no moon roof) is this a hard task? I have just finished a tranny swap on this car but I have done that before, I have several maxx's just never a 1993 and never done the rear struts. Any advise?
they are the same as the 92's struts.
08-02-2010, 09:07 AM
#5669
Junior Member
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Spokane WA
Posts: 80
how would you do it?
OK but the book would have you pull the engine and tranny together to get the tranny out and I would never do it that way. The book tells me to remove the entire suspension and take the housing to a vise to remove the strut rod. Is this the best method? Can you just compress the spring and remove the strut without removing the whole housing? Just saying.... I never have done this task. How would you do it?
thanks
Darryl
08-02-2010, 06:18 PM
#5670
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Aug 2010
Posts: 2
1994 Nissan Maxima (145K miles) Spark Plugs
I'm perplexed, the spark plugs in the car are NGK PFR5C-11 (2271), yet web sites are telling me that is not the right plug...they say NGK BKR6ES-11 (5553) or BKR6EGP (7092).
Were the wrong plugs in the car?
What is the 'real' difference?
[If you have time, please read on...any help or ideas will be appreciated. Thank you.]
...not my car, use it when I visit...sits unused most of the time.
-oil light appeared...
My solution change the oil Quaker State 5W-30 (according to manual) and Slick 50 (had purchased a bottle long ago) and changed air filter.
-power steering leak, prob. needs hose replace???...guess cost $50 to $150.
My solution, purchase power steering fluid ($1-$2) and keep replacing...next try Lucas (gel) PSF. Sometimes reservoir is empty,sometimes it is full. Place cardboard underneath car.
-check engine light illuminated all of a sudden, rough idle and sluggish acceleration.
My solution, wait to see if problem would go away. It did!
I did fill up the tank to the top (car is not driven often and thought maybe water/bad gas), also put in can of sea foam ($7.50) in gas tank.
-check engine light reappeared after a month with rough idle, sluggish acceleration which turned into PATHETIC acceleration.
My solution, put the automatic transmission in lowest gear from stop, then shift to 2nd lowest, then Drive. It could be anything someone told me. I thought I would try changing the spark plugs, what do you think ?
I removed one plug and it looked normal (http://www.sparkplug-crossreference.com/) trace amounts of debris, but otherwise very clean. I do not know when the last plug replacement was, but I thought it might be worth it to gamble $20 or so to see if that fixed the problem.
Also, checked what I think is transmission fluid (red) and it was a COLD level on stick.
Any thoughts or tips would be appreciated. Thank you for taking the time to read.
I'm perplexed, the spark plugs in the car are NGK PFR5C-11 (2271), yet web sites are telling me that is not the right plug...they say NGK BKR6ES-11 (5553) or BKR6EGP (7092).
Were the wrong plugs in the car?
What is the 'real' difference?
[If you have time, please read on...any help or ideas will be appreciated. Thank you.]
...not my car, use it when I visit...sits unused most of the time.
-oil light appeared...
My solution change the oil Quaker State 5W-30 (according to manual) and Slick 50 (had purchased a bottle long ago) and changed air filter.
-power steering leak, prob. needs hose replace???...guess cost $50 to $150.
My solution, purchase power steering fluid ($1-$2) and keep replacing...next try Lucas (gel) PSF. Sometimes reservoir is empty,sometimes it is full. Place cardboard underneath car.
-check engine light illuminated all of a sudden, rough idle and sluggish acceleration.
My solution, wait to see if problem would go away. It did!
I did fill up the tank to the top (car is not driven often and thought maybe water/bad gas), also put in can of sea foam ($7.50) in gas tank.
-check engine light reappeared after a month with rough idle, sluggish acceleration which turned into PATHETIC acceleration.
My solution, put the automatic transmission in lowest gear from stop, then shift to 2nd lowest, then Drive. It could be anything someone told me. I thought I would try changing the spark plugs, what do you think ?
I removed one plug and it looked normal (http://www.sparkplug-crossreference.com/) trace amounts of debris, but otherwise very clean. I do not know when the last plug replacement was, but I thought it might be worth it to gamble $20 or so to see if that fixed the problem.
Also, checked what I think is transmission fluid (red) and it was a COLD level on stick.
Any thoughts or tips would be appreciated. Thank you for taking the time to read.
08-03-2010, 12:38 AM
#5671
1994 Nissan Maxima (145K miles) Spark Plugs
I'm perplexed, the spark plugs in the car are NGK PFR5C-11 (2271), yet web sites are telling me that is not the right plug...they say NGK BKR6ES-11 (5553) or BKR6EGP (7092).
Were the wrong plugs in the car?
What is the 'real' difference?
I'm perplexed, the spark plugs in the car are NGK PFR5C-11 (2271), yet web sites are telling me that is not the right plug...they say NGK BKR6ES-11 (5553) or BKR6EGP (7092).
Were the wrong plugs in the car?
What is the 'real' difference?
Last edited by jbbons25; 08-03-2010 at 12:42 AM.
08-03-2010, 03:55 AM
#5672
Which engine is in the Maxima? If it has the SOHC engine (picture reference here) then it uses the copper plugs. Else if it hs the DOHC engine (picture reference here), then it uses the platinum plugs.
08-03-2010, 07:32 AM
#5673
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Aug 2010
Posts: 2
DOHC engine (picture reference here), then it uses the platinum plugs.
And Greeny, thanks for the other thread re: ECU w/pics and vid.
http://forums.maxima.org/3rd-generat...-then-off.html
A18-B50 EC8 94 Maxima N A F J30-VE30DE 23710-7E505
5 Red, 1 Red = 51 Fuel injector circuit open (California models only)
http://s963.photobucket.com/albums/a...urrent=ECU.mp4
That makes sense, problem started, stopped on its own and then started again.
Well at least I know what is wrong and most most likely changing the spark plugs was not the thing to do (6 x $7.50).
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=136112
$1800, YIKES!
Thank you Maxima Forum for the knowledge base.
08-03-2010, 09:32 AM
#5674
Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Redcliffe, Western Australia
Posts: 32
my transmission is broken, and i want to put all good bits in it, are there any performance orientated valve bodies available for the VG auto? and before you tell me to get a manual box it's not covered by the warranty and I'm in Australia where they don't exist, plus i have an auto restricted license so I'm not allowed to drive one
08-04-2010, 12:42 AM
#5675
Junior Member
Join Date: Aug 2010
Posts: 22
is there a noob section for the 6th gen? I was wondering about how much would a complete paint job on my 05 SE cost me from silver to black. I dont want a cheap one i want it to last but i dont want to pay top dollar either i live in new england
08-04-2010, 12:43 PM
#5676
but, since this is a general maxima question (again, no newbie thread)...
expect to pay at least $1000 for one. depending on the car's current paint, scratches, dents/dings,etc. will depend on how much prep work is needed for it to turn out right.
you may check the regional forum, see if anyone can suggest a paint shop.
08-04-2010, 07:29 PM
#5677
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Aug 2010
Posts: 4
High, I have read these forums for months in search of my problem with limited luck. I have a 92 VG and it has an intermittent problem. It will cold start and run fine, but occasionally on a hot restart it misses very bad and throws white smoke. It will barely move unless you floor it and then it jumps. This seems to happen most often with 1/4 tank or less. Here is what I have done so far. O2, water sensor, 3 new Bosch fuel injectors and 3 rebuilt- big mistake as many have said here, fuel pump and hose. I have also done timing belt, water pump, CV joints etc but those things are unrelated.
I need help and I am hoping you Masters can solve my intermittent rich situation. Oh yea, I pulled the plugs and they were all about the same color, the old injectors were a bit darker but not much. Also I have all new plugs and wires and cap.
Any help will be greatly appreciated.
Thanks
I need help and I am hoping you Masters can solve my intermittent rich situation. Oh yea, I pulled the plugs and they were all about the same color, the old injectors were a bit darker but not much. Also I have all new plugs and wires and cap.
Any help will be greatly appreciated.
Thanks
08-04-2010, 07:31 PM
#5678
you would have to change a bunch of wiring as well, a few people have done VG to VE conversions but i dont think anyone has gone a VE to VG conversion. its alot of work
08-05-2010, 06:20 AM
#5679
Junior Member
Join Date: Aug 2010
Posts: 22
doesn't appear to be one.
but, since this is a general maxima question (again, no newbie thread)...
expect to pay at least $1000 for one. depending on the car's current paint, scratches, dents/dings,etc. will depend on how much prep work is needed for it to turn out right.
you may check the regional forum, see if anyone can suggest a paint shop.
but, since this is a general maxima question (again, no newbie thread)...
expect to pay at least $1000 for one. depending on the car's current paint, scratches, dents/dings,etc. will depend on how much prep work is needed for it to turn out right.
you may check the regional forum, see if anyone can suggest a paint shop.
Thank you thats what i was wondering because maaco gave me a quote for $1500 with a 2 year warranty because there is a spot near the rear fender thats needs to be painted over becuase of the color change
08-05-2010, 06:29 AM
#5680
don't go maaco. do not go maaco.
don't go maaco. do not go maaco.
I can never say it enough.
I have seen one job that was decent, but it was a show car they did on some tv show.
every real car I have seen had poor prep work, peeling clear coat, flaking paint, runs, anything you can think of for a bad paint job. There are usually more than one of these on a maaco paint job.