*NOOBIES* The "I am new here,but have a question" thread..(post your questions here)
12-20-2007, 06:25 AM
#82
How is swapping a sohc for dohc no more complex then,lets say a swapping out a ve30de with an identical ve30de?
please let us all know how this scenario is no more complex??
Last edited by Greeny; 12-20-2007 at 06:29 AM.
12-20-2007, 06:39 AM
#83
by motor swap I am referring to not replacing the motor but swapping it out for a different motor. it is no more complex than swapping a KA for an SR in a 240, B series for a D series in a honda.
it's actually easier to some extent than a honda swap since these cars at least came equipped with the motor so the factory has every part
it's actually easier to some extent than a honda swap since these cars at least came equipped with the motor so the factory has every part
12-20-2007, 06:46 AM
#84
by motor swap I am referring to not replacing the motor but swapping it out for a different motor. it is no more complex than swapping a KA for an SR in a 240, B series for a D series in a honda.
it's actually easier to some extent than a honda swap since these cars at least came equipped with the motor so the factory has every part
it's actually easier to some extent than a honda swap since these cars at least came equipped with the motor so the factory has every part
) for a sohc to dohc to work correctly.
Last edited by Greeny; 12-20-2007 at 06:52 AM.
12-20-2007, 08:40 AM
#85
Ron
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Hmmm
Posts: 12
Bummer
Well I had a local mech. "diagnose" my problem, and right away they said it was the tranny. A tranny causing a rough idle in park?? This idle problem is, I'm sure related to the weird shifting of the tranny, which it shifted like after the car would stall out, and then restart on its own. Turning off the key and restarting it would get the tranny to shift right until it died again. I'm thinking vacuum leak. Anyone know what vacuum lines would affect the idle, and tranny shifting? 
12-20-2007, 09:24 AM
#86
Ok,i see what you are saying,but we do not want to lead any new members to believe that this type of swap is an easy/plug-n-play/be driving the car that day type of swap,you and I both know what has to take place(not typing all that ish) for a sohc to dohc to work correctly.
) for a sohc to dohc to work correctly.
12-21-2007, 06:32 AM
#88
If you can swap a I6 Chevy to a V8, then this is a walk in the park. I will definitely keep everyone posted once I get started on this VG to VE swap.
12-21-2007, 08:12 AM
#89
working on it, but lost my drive after step 23
Code:
step 1. Drive VG30E equipped car to JY step 2. Buy VE30DE equipped car at dealer :p seriously it's more along the lines of: 1.Buy VE30DE donor car 2.If donor still has functional A/C drive car to certified A/C repair center to have system evacuated 3.Put VE donor car in long term covered parking space 4.Read and follow directions # 1,2, 4, in 1994 FSM pages EM-78 and EM-79 5.Leave all harnesses and hoses connected to the motor side of them, disconnect them from the body side 6.Leave all accessories attached to motor, but disconnected from body (I.E. Disconnect A/C lines from compressor, disconnect power steering hose at reservoir not at pump) 7.Remove ECU from car 8.Feed ECU Harness back through firewall out into engine compartment 9.pull motor and transmission from car complete with harness still attached 10.Remove spindle assemblies (undo ball joint castle nut and 2 bolts on strut. 11.Unbolt all mounts from car (or buy new ones) 12.take out the clutch pedal, brake pedal, clutch master cylinder, slave cylinder, hose, and ALL brackets and hardware that are attached to them 13.take a piece of stiff cardboard and mark on it the location of the hole that the clutch slave cylinder was mounted in relative to the rest of the firewall accessories 14.Replace water pump 15.replace spark plugs do not get rid of donor car yet it's time to start on the recipient 16.since you've already pulled the motor from the donor car you should be able to follow the same logic to pull it from your current car since the 94 FSM doesn't show a how to for the VG motor 17. 18.Remove ECU from car 19.Feed ECU Harness through firewall into car interior 20.pull motor and transmission from car complete with harness still attached 21.Remove spindle assemblies (undo ball joint castle nut and 2 bolts on strut. 22.Unbolt all mounts from car 23.while you have the motor out take your cardboard template that you made on the donor car and make the hole in the firewall for the clutch slave cylinder 24.
12-21-2007, 09:31 AM
#90
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Dec 2007
Posts: 11
12-21-2007, 12:48 PM
#91
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2007
Posts: 179
For what it is worth, the Chevy I6 to V8 is a pretty straight forward easy swap. The transmissions are the same. The wiring harness from the I6 will work with a little re-routing. You need to get the engine mounts for the V8, and might have to swap the throttle cable, and possibly extend wiring for the temperature sensor, but that is pretty much it.
12-21-2007, 09:01 PM
#93
For what it is worth, the Chevy I6 to V8 is a pretty straight forward easy swap. The transmissions are the same. The wiring harness from the I6 will work with a little re-routing. You need to get the engine mounts for the V8, and might have to swap the throttle cable, and possibly extend wiring for the temperature sensor, but that is pretty much it.
I am not trying to argue, but nothing is as easy as it seems, but I truly do not think that the VG to VE swap is going to be as bad as everyone lets on. Especially considering it is 5spd to 5spd. Maybe I am wrong, I don't know, but I will definitely keep eveyone posted as this progresses.
12-22-2007, 05:35 AM
#94
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....ght=350z+wheel
this be what your lookin for
read the first page, and ye'll find out
this be what your lookin for
read the first page, and ye'll find out
12-22-2007, 01:17 PM
#95
94 Nissan Auto
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Athens, Georgia
Posts: 4
Power window problems
I have a '94 Maxima that has the front power windows stuck down. The battery is being drained by something and a new Power Window Master switch did not cure the window problem. Could the ignition switch have anything to do with the problem?
Thanks,
Mike
Thanks,
Mike
12-22-2007, 01:55 PM
#96
if you can get the window up. will it roll down, or just fall?
was the switch new or "new"?
how old is your battery?
my brother had a battery that was a year old, and the symptoms sounded like a drain. took the battery in to be tested, it was bad. a new battery fixed the problem.
take your battery and have it tested first. sometimes it can be that simple
also, are you trying to think the two problems are related? they may not be...
Last edited by BenStoked; 12-23-2007 at 06:45 AM.
12-22-2007, 04:32 PM
#97
meh, the radiator can stay the same and don't worry about the shroud. (been there done that)
12-22-2007, 04:34 PM
#98
you need a window regulator probably and the power issue is probably unrelated but that you need to diagnose
12-23-2007, 06:58 AM
#99
94 Nissan Auto
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Athens, Georgia
Posts: 4
Benstoked,
I had the battery charged and tested, It is ok. The switch is pulled from another car, but was supposed to be tested and certified to be ok. Door locks work, keypad works. The previous master switch had a burned area on the control board. The problem started with the front passenger window going up and down randomly on its own, then progressed to going up and down continuously. The power window lock would stop it. Then all the windows quit working. To test the window motors, I put the windows down using the keypad.They went down with no problem. To test the fuse, I switched the ignition and the power window fuses under the hood. The car started with no problem, windows did nothing. Car sat for a week and a half while waiting for the switch to arrive, battery went dead. Now windows are stuck down, battery will drain if left connected, car will not start. There is a keypad lockout device on the car that will not take its code input. Usually the only time that happens is when the ignition switch is on. The car will not start unless the code is entered.
Thanks,
Mike
I had the battery charged and tested, It is ok. The switch is pulled from another car, but was supposed to be tested and certified to be ok. Door locks work, keypad works. The previous master switch had a burned area on the control board. The problem started with the front passenger window going up and down randomly on its own, then progressed to going up and down continuously. The power window lock would stop it. Then all the windows quit working. To test the window motors, I put the windows down using the keypad.They went down with no problem. To test the fuse, I switched the ignition and the power window fuses under the hood. The car started with no problem, windows did nothing. Car sat for a week and a half while waiting for the switch to arrive, battery went dead. Now windows are stuck down, battery will drain if left connected, car will not start. There is a keypad lockout device on the car that will not take its code input. Usually the only time that happens is when the ignition switch is on. The car will not start unless the code is entered.
Thanks,
Mike
when the button is pushed, do you hear any sounds from the door?
if you can get the window up. will it roll down, or just fall?
was the switch new or "new"?
how old is your battery?
my brother had a battery that was a year old, and the symptoms sounded like a drain. took the battery in to be tested, it was bad. a new battery fied the problem.
take your battery and have it tested first. sometimes it can be that simple
also, are you trying to think the two problems are related? they may not be...
if you can get the window up. will it roll down, or just fall?
was the switch new or "new"?
how old is your battery?
my brother had a battery that was a year old, and the symptoms sounded like a drain. took the battery in to be tested, it was bad. a new battery fied the problem.
take your battery and have it tested first. sometimes it can be that simple
also, are you trying to think the two problems are related? they may not be...
12-24-2007, 06:39 PM
#100
Noob here. Well, I don't own a Maxima but I do have '69 510 with a Z31 Vg30e in it. It runs fine but in my quest for more power I'm looking for an 89-92ish VG30e engine including the intake manifold setup and alternator to start building without having my car torn apart. I don't need any of the other accessories. I will gladly yank one from the local pick and pull but figured someone here might have a rebuildable core laying around after a swap. Northern Cal preferred as they aren't really worth shipping. I'd love to post this in the WTB section but as you all know I'm banished here.
I dont want the pre 89 engine as the heads do not flow as well. e-mail or reply. mnr123@comcast.net
Thanks
-Mark
I dont want the pre 89 engine as the heads do not flow as well. e-mail or reply. mnr123@comcast.net
Thanks
-Mark
12-24-2007, 08:19 PM
#101
Noob here. Well, I don't own a Maxima but I do have '69 510 with a Z31 Vg30e in it. It runs fine but in my quest for more power I'm looking for an 89-92ish VG30e engine including the intake manifold setup and alternator to start building without having my car torn apart. I don't need any of the other accessories. I will gladly yank one from the local pick and pull but figured someone here might have a rebuildable core laying around after a swap. Northern Cal preferred as they aren't really worth shipping. I'd love to post this in the WTB section but as you all know I'm banished here.
I dont want the pre 89 engine as the heads do not flow as well. e-mail or reply. mnr123@comcast.net
Thanks
-Mark
I dont want the pre 89 engine as the heads do not flow as well. e-mail or reply. mnr123@comcast.net
Thanks
-Mark
12-25-2007, 11:33 PM
#102
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 6
'92 Maxima won't start
Hi everyone I have a '92 Maxima GXE. I Locked the car using the keypad on the door and I re-opened it with a spare key without disarming the security system. I put my spare key in the ignition to start it and for some weird reason it seems like the battery was completely drained so no start. Then the key wouldn't even come out of the ignition... I jump started it thinking it was only the battery that was not charged and then I tried putting my defroster on and the fan just went crazy so I had to turn the car off. Now nothing works and the key is still in the ignition. I didn't want to try jump starting again so... Is the problem the anti-theft system or can I just try jump starting it again and hopefully get my car running? What are your suggestions? PM me and thanks for reading and I hope to hear from someone soon. Just my luck that it did this on Christmas too Hope your Christmas' were awesome!
-Jaya
Hope your Christmas' were awesome! -Jaya
12-26-2007, 08:10 PM
#104
I have a few questions, One. Does anybody know the gains from an Intake (Lower and Upper) port, Phelonic, and Throttle Body Spacers, and a Throttle Body port? Two. Does anybody know what would cause a manual transmission to feel like its in "park"?
12-26-2007, 09:35 PM
#105
BTW, feel free to PM about the Tranny. Problems
12-27-2007, 03:32 AM
#106
the other stuff... somebody else who knows more can answer that
12-27-2007, 10:53 AM
#107
There is the dyno sheet comparison for the VE30DE with Phenolic Intake Spacers.
Include properly done intake port work to that and you can assume to see a bigger increase in top end power.
12-27-2007, 05:19 PM
#108
Car Jerking
My Car has a slight jerk in it when I i push the gas or let off of the gas. It isn't very sharp, but noticable nonetheless. When you give is gas, it is very tiny jerk, then all is well. Same happens when I give it gas, it is a slight jerk, like the engine goes for a split second, then gives power to the car. RPMs don't raise like a trans slip. I've been in another car that did it, but the car was never maintained, so it isn't a good comparison. Any ideas what could cause it, motor mounts maybe? They could be bad. And last how could I test if my mounts are bad? Cost to replace them?
12-27-2007, 05:29 PM
#109
My Car has a slight jerk in it when I i push the gas or let off of the gas. It isn't very sharp, but noticable nonetheless. When you give is gas, it is very tiny jerk, then all is well. Same happens when I give it gas, it is a slight jerk, like the engine goes for a split second, then gives power to the car. RPMs don't raise like a trans slip. I've been in another car that did it, but the car was never maintained, so it isn't a good comparison. Any ideas what could cause it, motor mounts maybe? They could be bad. And last how could I test if my mounts are bad? Cost to replace them?
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....ontrol+bushing
http://www.internetautosupply.com/ca...5343c115e8e5f4
he seems to have the best prices, and take it from experience, replacing just the bushing is a bish, so get the control arm assy
also before replacing anything, go to a shop to get your alignment checked. most places will do it for free, just make sure it's a reputable shop. they can tell you for sure if they're bad.
Last edited by BenStoked; 12-27-2007 at 05:37 PM.
12-27-2007, 06:01 PM
#110
My Car has a slight jerk in it when I i push the gas or let off of the gas. It isn't very sharp, but noticable nonetheless. When you give is gas, it is very tiny jerk, then all is well. Same happens when I give it gas, it is a slight jerk, like the engine goes for a split second, then gives power to the car. RPMs don't raise like a trans slip. I've been in another car that did it, but the car was never maintained, so it isn't a good comparison. Any ideas what could cause it, motor mounts maybe? They could be bad. And last how could I test if my mounts are bad? Cost to replace them?
to test them, pop the hood and watch if the engine moves (or jumps) when you put it in drive or reverse. if it does then it's mounts. if not then check the control arm bushings, especially the right side front one. the motor tends to leak fluids on it which destroys the rubber completely.
you can use the links ben posted on the control arms. the second is supposed to be a good place to deal with
12-28-2007, 08:03 AM
#112
Not new to cars!
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Lower New York State
Posts: 9
I've accomplished the repair, after a long wait for the replacement part to arrive. Very easy to do, once I found where the relay was located. After the glove box is removed it's a straight shot to the relay. I also found out that my blower fan was loose and hanging by the remaining screw!
I was amazed by how much junk was in the space by the heater core!
(Heater switch relay for the lower fan speeds.)
I was amazed by how much junk was in the space by the heater core!
(Heater switch relay for the lower fan speeds.)
12-28-2007, 08:25 AM
#113
I've accomplished the repair, after a long wait for the replacement part to arrive. Very easy to do, once I found where the relay was located. After the glove box is removed it's a straight shot to the relay. I also found out that my blower fan was loose and hanging by the remaining screw!
I was amazed by how much junk was in the space by the heater core!
(Heater switch relay for the lower fan speeds.)
I was amazed by how much junk was in the space by the heater core!
(Heater switch relay for the lower fan speeds.)
12-28-2007, 08:17 PM
#114
I was replacing brake pads, easy job, but I noticed on the front, the mounting bolts for the caliper, things that slide. only one of them slid, I thought it froze, I pulled it out and found it to have a big rubber piece on the end. Both sides the top one doesnt move? I've never seen that before. And When I did the rears, I couldn't compress the piston, it wouldnt budge? Is there a special technique?
12-28-2007, 08:23 PM
#115
I was replacing brake pads, easy job, but I noticed on the front, the mounting bolts for the caliper, things that slide. only one of them slid, I thought it froze, I pulled it out and found it to have a big rubber piece on the end. Both sides the top one doesnt move? I've never seen that before. And When I did the rears, I couldn't compress the piston, it wouldnt budge? Is there a special technique?
the backs need to be screwed in. I know youre askin "WTFin'F?" but its true.
take a pair of needle nosed pliers and screw them ****'s back in. thats all it takes. they are designed to be serviced thataway.
12-28-2007, 10:16 PM
#117
Junior Member
Join Date: Dec 2007
Posts: 4
hi...im sry to post here...i had no other choice as i had no prevlidges to put up a new pst..i really need some help and your valuable suggestion for my maxima 94 gxe..it was running fine until last week and all of a sudden it stopped..i showed to mechanic and after two days it started..and now again it doesnt starts...no one is ready to fix it..i dnt know wat the pbm is..the battery is brand new...cld anyone plz suggest me wat to do....i was thinking of gng to the showroom..but scared that they might charge me more...plz help me..thx
12-28-2007, 11:02 PM
#118
hi...im sry to post here...i had no other choice as i had no prevlidges to put up a new pst..i really need some help and your valuable suggestion for my maxima 94 gxe..it was running fine until last week and all of a sudden it stopped..i showed to mechanic and after two days it started..and now again it doesnt starts...no one is ready to fix it..i dnt know wat the pbm is..the battery is brand new...cld anyone plz suggest me wat to do....i was thinking of gng to the showroom..but scared that they might charge me more...plz help me..thx
what did the mechanics change/do if anything? there's a bunch of other questions the "know it alls" (not being snippy) may ask but i think that's the most direct question they'll ask you.
12-28-2007, 11:49 PM
#119
Not very hard if you are handy and the bolts are not rusted on. All it takes is for you to remove or somehow lower the strut assembly, take the top mount off (which requires springs compressors,) slid on the new boot and bump stop and reassemble the whole thing. Either that or ride until the shocks are gone, and then replace shocks and all related parts.
12-29-2007, 04:47 PM
#120
hi...I'm sorry to post here...i had no other choice as i had no privileges to put up a new post..i really need some help and your valuable suggestion for my Maxima 94 GXE..it was running fine until last week and all of a sudden it stopped..i showed to mechanic and after two days it started..and now again it doesn't starts...no one is ready to fix it..i dont know what the problem is..the battery is brand new...could anyone please suggest me what to do....i was thinking of going to the showroom..but scared that they might charge me more...please help me..thanks
2. does it crank or "turn over" but not actually start?
there are many things it could be. I'm personally thinking the starter right now, but without more detailed info it's hard to tell you.
3. what is with all the double periods??
I also fixed your spelling as I am fairly fluent in ESL and Ghetto.