The acceleration/shifting problem
#1
The acceleration/shifting problem
Here I go again...
I've been thinking a lot of your advice/opinions (from TCU thread) and I definitely agree with you on many things, it's just a common sense: I need a new Mechanic.
so before asking for advice from you, please allow me to clear something up: First I live on apartment complex, means no garage, not allowed to work on the car unless is just plug-in a sensor or changing a hose, a 20-30 minute thing.
Second, my knowledge have seen some improvements but still I'm not an expert or don't have even 10% the experience most of you guys have.
So, that being said, I was planning to post an ad looking for a Maxima Mechanic around South CA, but I'm also thinking just walk in a few shops and ask how much they will charge to take a look at my car, but before doing so (walk-in blindly into a shop) I would like to hear your opinion/advice.
I think I can't change inhibitor switch (which is bad for sure) because mechanic said he have to lift the car and drop the tranny to replace inhib sw because if fits sideways, is that true? or is BS too?
I know that has nothing to do with the acceleration/shifting issue but at least I would like to get the self diagnostic running.
based on your experience, what could be causing my problem? I mean I have no power at takeoff, but once I get to third gear the car seems to pickup speed very easily, sometimes (if I floor it) tranny stays on 2nd gear for too long (it even doesn't shift) however if I don't floor it I can feel the shift at about 4-4.5k rpm that's from 2nd to 3rd. is this a tranny problem for sure? or engine? please remember I've changed (well the mechanic) TPS, EGR, IACV, and no help.
I can't drive the car like that, I'm not using it right now, I'm worried you know when sometimes you are waiting at green light yield for a left turn, and then you have some space to make it but the car in this situation barely moves if I floor it and takes forever to make it, I think I'm gonna get hit from the incoming traffic. so I don't drive it anymore but I surely need my car.
Thanks in advance again to all for your valuable input.
I've been thinking a lot of your advice/opinions (from TCU thread) and I definitely agree with you on many things, it's just a common sense: I need a new Mechanic.
so before asking for advice from you, please allow me to clear something up: First I live on apartment complex, means no garage, not allowed to work on the car unless is just plug-in a sensor or changing a hose, a 20-30 minute thing.
Second, my knowledge have seen some improvements but still I'm not an expert or don't have even 10% the experience most of you guys have.
So, that being said, I was planning to post an ad looking for a Maxima Mechanic around South CA, but I'm also thinking just walk in a few shops and ask how much they will charge to take a look at my car, but before doing so (walk-in blindly into a shop) I would like to hear your opinion/advice.
I think I can't change inhibitor switch (which is bad for sure) because mechanic said he have to lift the car and drop the tranny to replace inhib sw because if fits sideways, is that true? or is BS too?
I know that has nothing to do with the acceleration/shifting issue but at least I would like to get the self diagnostic running.
based on your experience, what could be causing my problem? I mean I have no power at takeoff, but once I get to third gear the car seems to pickup speed very easily, sometimes (if I floor it) tranny stays on 2nd gear for too long (it even doesn't shift) however if I don't floor it I can feel the shift at about 4-4.5k rpm that's from 2nd to 3rd. is this a tranny problem for sure? or engine? please remember I've changed (well the mechanic) TPS, EGR, IACV, and no help.
I can't drive the car like that, I'm not using it right now, I'm worried you know when sometimes you are waiting at green light yield for a left turn, and then you have some space to make it but the car in this situation barely moves if I floor it and takes forever to make it, I think I'm gonna get hit from the incoming traffic. so I don't drive it anymore but I surely need my car.
Thanks in advance again to all for your valuable input.
#2
Here I go again...
I've been thinking a lot of your advice/opinions (from TCU thread) and I definitely agree with you on many things, it's just a common sense: I need a new Mechanic.
so before asking for advice from you, please allow me to clear something up: First I live on apartment complex, means no garage, not allowed to work on the car unless is just plug-in a sensor or changing a hose, a 20-30 minute thing.
Second, my knowledge have seen some improvements but still I'm not an expert or don't have even 10% the experience most of you guys have.
So, that being said, I was planning to post an ad looking for a Maxima Mechanic around South CA, but I'm also thinking just walk in a few shops and ask how much they will charge to take a look at my car, but before doing so (walk-in blindly into a shop) I would like to hear your opinion/advice.
I think I can't change inhibitor switch (which is bad for sure) because mechanic said he have to lift the car and drop the tranny to replace inhib sw because if fits sideways, is that true? or is BS too?
I know that has nothing to do with the acceleration/shifting issue but at least I would like to get the self diagnostic running.
based on your experience, what could be causing my problem? I mean I have no power at takeoff, but once I get to third gear the car seems to pickup speed very easily, sometimes (if I floor it) tranny stays on 2nd gear for too long (it even doesn't shift) however if I don't floor it I can feel the shift at about 4-4.5k rpm that's from 2nd to 3rd. is this a tranny problem for sure? or engine? please remember I've changed (well the mechanic) TPS, EGR, IACV, and no help.
I can't drive the car like that, I'm not using it right now, I'm worried you know when sometimes you are waiting at green light yield for a left turn, and then you have some space to make it but the car in this situation barely moves if I floor it and takes forever to make it, I think I'm gonna get hit from the incoming traffic. so I don't drive it anymore but I surely need my car.
Thanks in advance again to all for your valuable input.
I've been thinking a lot of your advice/opinions (from TCU thread) and I definitely agree with you on many things, it's just a common sense: I need a new Mechanic.
so before asking for advice from you, please allow me to clear something up: First I live on apartment complex, means no garage, not allowed to work on the car unless is just plug-in a sensor or changing a hose, a 20-30 minute thing.
Second, my knowledge have seen some improvements but still I'm not an expert or don't have even 10% the experience most of you guys have.
So, that being said, I was planning to post an ad looking for a Maxima Mechanic around South CA, but I'm also thinking just walk in a few shops and ask how much they will charge to take a look at my car, but before doing so (walk-in blindly into a shop) I would like to hear your opinion/advice.
I think I can't change inhibitor switch (which is bad for sure) because mechanic said he have to lift the car and drop the tranny to replace inhib sw because if fits sideways, is that true? or is BS too?
I know that has nothing to do with the acceleration/shifting issue but at least I would like to get the self diagnostic running.
based on your experience, what could be causing my problem? I mean I have no power at takeoff, but once I get to third gear the car seems to pickup speed very easily, sometimes (if I floor it) tranny stays on 2nd gear for too long (it even doesn't shift) however if I don't floor it I can feel the shift at about 4-4.5k rpm that's from 2nd to 3rd. is this a tranny problem for sure? or engine? please remember I've changed (well the mechanic) TPS, EGR, IACV, and no help.
I can't drive the car like that, I'm not using it right now, I'm worried you know when sometimes you are waiting at green light yield for a left turn, and then you have some space to make it but the car in this situation barely moves if I floor it and takes forever to make it, I think I'm gonna get hit from the incoming traffic. so I don't drive it anymore but I surely need my car.
Thanks in advance again to all for your valuable input.
VG motor, or VE? check to tranny fluid? also you can smell the fluid to see if maybe something is burned up inside the tranny. compare the smell of the fluid to your other cars tranny fluid. can't really explain how it will smell if its bad, never smelled tranny fluid from a bad tranny.
so basically, at take off, sometimes, its like your starting out in 4th gear(overdrive) ? if thats the case, your tranny is in LIMP mode...meaning it willstay in the last gear, 4th(o/d), meaning you can go 0-140mph in one gear.
I had the problem of my VE auto being stuck in LIMP mode after I had the tranny rebuilt...turns out the guy who installed it bumped the inhibitor switch completely out causing that.
If you know your inhibitor switch is bad, that is the problem with your tranny. it either needs to be adjusted properly, or replaed.
You don't need to take the tranny off or any of the crap as far as I understand. Definately get a new mechanic. I'd reccomend looking for shops that only do transmissions. Talk with them, tell them you think the inhibitor switch is bad or needs adjusting, tell them your problem see what they say.
#3
http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u...g?t=1206989944
tough call as to whether it's accessible with that mount there or not... but anyhow that's where it is, just below the brake master cylinder.
also does your speedometer work properly? see most of this crap you can test yourself with a DMM and maybe a helper. like the TPS, the other thing, and the stuff. and by that i mean the iacv and EGR. did your so-called mechanic even MENTION vaccuum lines to you?
tough call as to whether it's accessible with that mount there or not... but anyhow that's where it is, just below the brake master cylinder.
also does your speedometer work properly? see most of this crap you can test yourself with a DMM and maybe a helper. like the TPS, the other thing, and the stuff. and by that i mean the iacv and EGR. did your so-called mechanic even MENTION vaccuum lines to you?
#4
VG motor, or VE? check to tranny fluid? also you can smell the fluid to see if maybe something is burned up inside the tranny. compare the smell of the fluid to your other cars tranny fluid. can't really explain how it will smell if its bad, never smelled tranny fluid from a bad tranny.
so basically, at take off, sometimes, its like your starting out in 4th gear(overdrive) ? if thats the case, your tranny is in LIMP mode...meaning it willstay in the last gear, 4th(o/d), meaning you can go 0-140mph in one gear.
I had the problem of my VE auto being stuck in LIMP mode after I had the tranny rebuilt...turns out the guy who installed it bumped the inhibitor switch completely out causing that.
If you know your inhibitor switch is bad, that is the problem with your tranny. it either needs to be adjusted properly, or replaed.
You don't need to take the tranny off or any of the crap as far as I understand. Definately get a new mechanic. I'd reccomend looking for shops that only do transmissions. Talk with them, tell them you think the inhibitor switch is bad or needs adjusting, tell them your problem see what they say.
so basically, at take off, sometimes, its like your starting out in 4th gear(overdrive) ? if thats the case, your tranny is in LIMP mode...meaning it willstay in the last gear, 4th(o/d), meaning you can go 0-140mph in one gear.
I had the problem of my VE auto being stuck in LIMP mode after I had the tranny rebuilt...turns out the guy who installed it bumped the inhibitor switch completely out causing that.
If you know your inhibitor switch is bad, that is the problem with your tranny. it either needs to be adjusted properly, or replaed.
You don't need to take the tranny off or any of the crap as far as I understand. Definately get a new mechanic. I'd reccomend looking for shops that only do transmissions. Talk with them, tell them you think the inhibitor switch is bad or needs adjusting, tell them your problem see what they say.
main thing is we need a video to see his RPM/speed relationship, narrated by him, to indicate throttle position.
#5
limp home mode is 3rd. both solenoids are off in 3rd. i posted a page in the FSM on the other thread that says so. i even tested it by cutting out my solenoids and then turning them back on but it stayed in 3rd.
main thing is we need a video to see his RPM/speed relationship, narrated by him, to indicate throttle position.
main thing is we need a video to see his RPM/speed relationship, narrated by him, to indicate throttle position.
also, is that a pic of the ve or vg switch?
#6
I have a VG, that pict is froma VG too, I will try to make a video and narrate as accurate as I can, but I'm also bad taking video while driving last time I ask my dad to hold the camera for me but he's video was even more shaky than mine LOL
BTW, the so-called mechanic didn't mention vacuum lines, when I mention the hoses he was like... Ohh! I see ok then this one goes here and this one there, he looked like he knew but I guess he was just trying to impress or something.
Oh and he wasn't even able to adjust the idle speed, even tough he was moving the IACV adjust and the throttle body he make it RPM at 1.5rpm when on P and on D was 900rpm which was ok but then he messed up again moving and moving the adjust and it was back to 1k on P and 700 on D causing a huge shaking on the steering wheel, then he said we'll adjust that later, and then he blame my ECU, he said the idle speed gotta be adjusted by the ECU and doesn't matter how he tried to adjust it mechanically the ECU is readjusting it causing the shaking, so, more BS right?
But that's another issue, (one of many) my first concern right now is the acceleration.
BTW, the so-called mechanic didn't mention vacuum lines, when I mention the hoses he was like... Ohh! I see ok then this one goes here and this one there, he looked like he knew but I guess he was just trying to impress or something.
Oh and he wasn't even able to adjust the idle speed, even tough he was moving the IACV adjust and the throttle body he make it RPM at 1.5rpm when on P and on D was 900rpm which was ok but then he messed up again moving and moving the adjust and it was back to 1k on P and 700 on D causing a huge shaking on the steering wheel, then he said we'll adjust that later, and then he blame my ECU, he said the idle speed gotta be adjusted by the ECU and doesn't matter how he tried to adjust it mechanically the ECU is readjusting it causing the shaking, so, more BS right?
But that's another issue, (one of many) my first concern right now is the acceleration.
Last edited by rmdl51; 03-31-2008 at 01:23 PM.
#7
#8
I have a VG, that pict is froma VG too, I will try to make a video and narrate as accurate as I can, but I'm also bad taking video while driving last time I ask my dad to hold the camera for me but he's video was even more shaky than mine LOL
BTW, the so-called mechanic didn't mention vacuum lines, when I mention the hoses he was like... Ohh! I see ok then this one goes here and this one there, he looked like he knew but I guess he was just trying to impress or something.
Oh and he wasn't even able to adjust the idle speed, even tough he was moving the IACV adjust and the throttle body he make it RPM at 1.5rpm when on P and on D was 900rpm which was ok but then he messed up again moving and moving the adjust and it was back to 1k on P and 700 on D causing a huge shaking on the steering wheel, then he said we'll adjust that later, and then he blame my ECU, he said the idle speed gotta be adjusted by the ECU and doesn't matter how he tried to adjust it mechanically the ECU is readjusting it causing the shaking, so, more BS right?
But that's another issue, (one of many) my first concern right now is the acceleration.
BTW, the so-called mechanic didn't mention vacuum lines, when I mention the hoses he was like... Ohh! I see ok then this one goes here and this one there, he looked like he knew but I guess he was just trying to impress or something.
Oh and he wasn't even able to adjust the idle speed, even tough he was moving the IACV adjust and the throttle body he make it RPM at 1.5rpm when on P and on D was 900rpm which was ok but then he messed up again moving and moving the adjust and it was back to 1k on P and 700 on D causing a huge shaking on the steering wheel, then he said we'll adjust that later, and then he blame my ECU, he said the idle speed gotta be adjusted by the ECU and doesn't matter how he tried to adjust it mechanically the ECU is readjusting it causing the shaking, so, more BS right?
But that's another issue, (one of many) my first concern right now is the acceleration.
#9
Pls no new cooks ... You need an experienced Maxichanic. Don't pay for training.
Make do the TCU pin tester setup that I did draw just for you - multimeter hookup. Then look/test all TCU pins, one by one, and verify the signals according the list... Explain each here, that ensures you know what u see. This is painful as life - but smtg you can do.
Make do the TCU pin tester setup that I did draw just for you - multimeter hookup. Then look/test all TCU pins, one by one, and verify the signals according the list... Explain each here, that ensures you know what u see. This is painful as life - but smtg you can do.
#10
Don't worry, I learned the hard way, I make mistakes but never twice the same one, I won't hand a single dollar if I don't see my car running as strong as a corvette (ok not like that but I know how a V6 should perform)
No kidding huh?
one hour laid down over the carpet of the Maxima without any succesfull reading frustrates me so much, pedals, clips, probes of DMM, etc all PITA on this position. should I get the same readings if I disconnect completely the TCU connector and measure it directly when disconnected?
No kidding huh?
one hour laid down over the carpet of the Maxima without any succesfull reading frustrates me so much, pedals, clips, probes of DMM, etc all PITA on this position. should I get the same readings if I disconnect completely the TCU connector and measure it directly when disconnected?
#11
When I was young, I was proud and stupid. Nowadays just stupid - everythin else is just smoke screen... Will make same errors ... need new hornet helmet.
I came to the same PITA conclusion. This is why I routed the cable to passenger side (just during 'operation'), gouged each wire and added parallel parasite wires to most signals - then the LEDs. Now I just enjoy the fruits = Christmas lights. See http://www.cardomain.com/ride/748507/15
Building this parallel diagnostic cable will take '2hours' in decent conditions on your knees - much less than finding the Maxima pro. Do it, it will pay later... just some 25-30 wires. I get by with the selected 16.
You may also take TCU with cabling on the passenger side floor - for testing.
TCU cable out: Cant get 'same' readings but only some switch -closed- 'info'.
I came to the same PITA conclusion. This is why I routed the cable to passenger side (just during 'operation'), gouged each wire and added parallel parasite wires to most signals - then the LEDs. Now I just enjoy the fruits = Christmas lights. See http://www.cardomain.com/ride/748507/15
Building this parallel diagnostic cable will take '2hours' in decent conditions on your knees - much less than finding the Maxima pro. Do it, it will pay later... just some 25-30 wires. I get by with the selected 16.
You may also take TCU with cabling on the passenger side floor - for testing.
TCU cable out: Cant get 'same' readings but only some switch -closed- 'info'.
Last edited by Wiking; 04-01-2008 at 12:01 AM.
#12
Don't worry, I learned the hard way, I make mistakes but never twice the same one, I won't hand a single dollar if I don't see my car running as strong as a corvette (ok not like that but I know how a V6 should perform)
No kidding huh?
one hour laid down over the carpet of the Maxima without any succesfull reading frustrates me so much, pedals, clips, probes of DMM, etc all PITA on this position. should I get the same readings if I disconnect completely the TCU connector and measure it directly when disconnected?
No kidding huh?
one hour laid down over the carpet of the Maxima without any succesfull reading frustrates me so much, pedals, clips, probes of DMM, etc all PITA on this position. should I get the same readings if I disconnect completely the TCU connector and measure it directly when disconnected?
#13
wow i've been having the same exact problem with my car as you describe and its really starting to aggrivate me...i have a 91 VG auto
i had the tranny rebuild about 9 months ago and it rides a little stronger but not always...he repaced the torque converter i believe (the problem goes away and comes back sometimes...does that happen to you?)
what is this inhibitor switch you speak of and should i just take my car into a local nissan dealer rather than some jokester who fixes transmissions from my town?
i had the tranny rebuild about 9 months ago and it rides a little stronger but not always...he repaced the torque converter i believe (the problem goes away and comes back sometimes...does that happen to you?)
what is this inhibitor switch you speak of and should i just take my car into a local nissan dealer rather than some jokester who fixes transmissions from my town?
#14
wow i've been having the same exact problem with my car as you describe and its really starting to aggrivate me...i have a 91 VG auto
i had the tranny rebuild about 9 months ago and it rides a little stronger but not always...he repaced the torque converter i believe (the problem goes away and comes back sometimes...does that happen to you?)
what is this inhibitor switch you speak of and should i just take my car into a local nissan dealer rather than some jokester who fixes transmissions from my town?
i had the tranny rebuild about 9 months ago and it rides a little stronger but not always...he repaced the torque converter i believe (the problem goes away and comes back sometimes...does that happen to you?)
what is this inhibitor switch you speak of and should i just take my car into a local nissan dealer rather than some jokester who fixes transmissions from my town?
#16
have you gotten the FSM from the network with copacetic infiniti sentra-clones?
Last edited by CapedCadaver; 04-02-2008 at 01:57 PM.
#17
I'm sorry, I've been so busy and unable to take that video, but I'll try to do that tomorrow!
Easier than measure the inhib sw terminals, put your shifter selector on D, R, 2, or 1 and try to start the car if it does start then you test those terminals according to the FSM very similar to what capedcadaver said, the FSM specify which pins belong to each gear, if it doesn't start I guess you shouldn't worry about the inhib switch, I worry about that because that is preventing my self diagnostic to run and therefore I have no idea where to look for the problem, and my car does start on gear, and my so-called mechanic told me the inhib sw was properly adjusted and it might be dead.
But this inhib sw (I guess) has nothing to do with the acceleration problem, and you are right sometimes the car pickup speed very fast but this happens randomly, so according to the fake mechanic and electrician that worked on my car they said I have a burned TCU so I bought one and replaced it and problem wasn't fixed, now I have a spare working TCU just because this tards don't know what they were dealing with.
Keep reading the thread andy, we might figure it out soon.
Easier than measure the inhib sw terminals, put your shifter selector on D, R, 2, or 1 and try to start the car if it does start then you test those terminals according to the FSM very similar to what capedcadaver said, the FSM specify which pins belong to each gear, if it doesn't start I guess you shouldn't worry about the inhib switch, I worry about that because that is preventing my self diagnostic to run and therefore I have no idea where to look for the problem, and my car does start on gear, and my so-called mechanic told me the inhib sw was properly adjusted and it might be dead.
But this inhib sw (I guess) has nothing to do with the acceleration problem, and you are right sometimes the car pickup speed very fast but this happens randomly, so according to the fake mechanic and electrician that worked on my car they said I have a burned TCU so I bought one and replaced it and problem wasn't fixed, now I have a spare working TCU just because this tards don't know what they were dealing with.
Keep reading the thread andy, we might figure it out soon.
#18
I'm sorry, I've been so busy and unable to take that video, but I'll try to do that tomorrow!
Easier than measure the inhib sw terminals, put your shifter selector on D, R, 2, or 1 and try to start the car if it does start then you test those terminals according to the FSM very similar to what capedcadaver said, the FSM specify which pins belong to each gear, if it doesn't start I guess you shouldn't worry about the inhib switch, I worry about that because that is preventing my self diagnostic to run and therefore I have no idea where to look for the problem, and my car does start on gear, and my so-called mechanic told me the inhib sw was properly adjusted and it might be dead.
But this inhib sw (I guess) has nothing to do with the acceleration problem, and you are right sometimes the car pickup speed very fast but this happens randomly, so according to the fake mechanic and electrician that worked on my car they said I have a burned TCU so I bought one and replaced it and problem wasn't fixed, now I have a spare working TCU just because this tards don't know what they were dealing with.
Keep reading the thread andy, we might figure it out soon.
Easier than measure the inhib sw terminals, put your shifter selector on D, R, 2, or 1 and try to start the car if it does start then you test those terminals according to the FSM very similar to what capedcadaver said, the FSM specify which pins belong to each gear, if it doesn't start I guess you shouldn't worry about the inhib switch, I worry about that because that is preventing my self diagnostic to run and therefore I have no idea where to look for the problem, and my car does start on gear, and my so-called mechanic told me the inhib sw was properly adjusted and it might be dead.
But this inhib sw (I guess) has nothing to do with the acceleration problem, and you are right sometimes the car pickup speed very fast but this happens randomly, so according to the fake mechanic and electrician that worked on my car they said I have a burned TCU so I bought one and replaced it and problem wasn't fixed, now I have a spare working TCU just because this tards don't know what they were dealing with.
Keep reading the thread andy, we might figure it out soon.
#19
yea i actually went into my manual and looked up exaclty what an inhibitor switch was and yea it has nothing to do with the car when it is in drive, just park and neutral.
thanks for the help though and i guess ill just keep a lookout on the thread over the next few days...see if anyone else can help solve our problem
thanks for the help though and i guess ill just keep a lookout on the thread over the next few days...see if anyone else can help solve our problem
#20
yea i actually went into my manual and looked up exaclty what an inhibitor switch was and yea it has nothing to do with the car when it is in drive, just park and neutral.
thanks for the help though and i guess ill just keep a lookout on the thread over the next few days...see if anyone else can help solve our problem
thanks for the help though and i guess ill just keep a lookout on the thread over the next few days...see if anyone else can help solve our problem
#22
well, not necessarily. in what gears do the problem occur for you? well, i guess on what shifts do you notice the symptoms the most?
#23
primarily the problem is really bad when i stop and try to accelerate again...
so im thinking that the car doesnt know it should be in first gear and it probably stays in third...
sometimes though when i am on the highway it seems to not want to kick into overdrive (which from what i remember should be after about 45mph with normal everyday driving acceleration) and now that i think about it, i was having this problem the other day, it was at about 3500-4000rpm at highway speed with the overdrive ON, so i clicked the button and nothing happend. It was clearly in third gear and never hit overdrive yet.
so im thinking that the car doesnt know it should be in first gear and it probably stays in third...
sometimes though when i am on the highway it seems to not want to kick into overdrive (which from what i remember should be after about 45mph with normal everyday driving acceleration) and now that i think about it, i was having this problem the other day, it was at about 3500-4000rpm at highway speed with the overdrive ON, so i clicked the button and nothing happend. It was clearly in third gear and never hit overdrive yet.
#24
actually the car can be in overdrive as low as 25mph. 45mph is for tc lockup in overdrive, and 55mph in 3rd. what will help me the most is to know, after your car seems to be stuck in a higher gear, what happens to the tachometer as you accelerate to 45mph? does it hi 2300rpm and stay there until about 30mph? does it show an rpm variation as though a shift occured, or do you feel a shift?
if you don't know the answer to my question, drive with the OD button in the OFF position until your car does the sluggish thing, post-warmup. when it starts acting up, stop the car completely, then FLOOR IT. then report back to us.
I did a demonstration of this, but unfortunately the speedometer was only reading 20% of actual speed (read 15 at 75). the speedo USUALLY read properly, but sometimes dropped to 20%. really annoying. i stopped using it and reverted to my old GXE gauges. but keeping in mind that regardless of what you see on the speedometer, the video shows a 0-45mph acceleration, in failsafe 3rd gear, at WOT (holds at 2300, as you'll see), you can compare my RPM behavior to yours. i can't make another one of these videos with a good speedometer, as my car is now a 5spd. anyhow, here it is:
http://s164.photobucket.com/albums/u...t=MVI_1165.flv
if you don't know the answer to my question, drive with the OD button in the OFF position until your car does the sluggish thing, post-warmup. when it starts acting up, stop the car completely, then FLOOR IT. then report back to us.
I did a demonstration of this, but unfortunately the speedometer was only reading 20% of actual speed (read 15 at 75). the speedo USUALLY read properly, but sometimes dropped to 20%. really annoying. i stopped using it and reverted to my old GXE gauges. but keeping in mind that regardless of what you see on the speedometer, the video shows a 0-45mph acceleration, in failsafe 3rd gear, at WOT (holds at 2300, as you'll see), you can compare my RPM behavior to yours. i can't make another one of these videos with a good speedometer, as my car is now a 5spd. anyhow, here it is:
http://s164.photobucket.com/albums/u...t=MVI_1165.flv
Last edited by CapedCadaver; 04-02-2008 at 06:28 PM.
#26
#27
yea that seems similar to mine....ill try what u said tommorrow but i have tried that in the past and i can have my foot all the way to the floor and i still get sluggish acceleration up to a certain point and then the car will suddenly shift
#28
'All' starts from checking charge voltage, then supply at TCU. Next TPS, (Comfort), Inhibit switches are verified - then if those pass, self diagnostics.
see http://www.cardomain.com/ride/748507/15
see http://www.cardomain.com/ride/748507/15
#29
from another thread
i'd check the ground on the tranny, tbh. there's a black wire that clips onto a little flat terminal on the seam of the 2 halves of the tranny. it's on the top somewhere, but i forget where precisely... just follow the seam and you'll find it.
also there are like 4 connectors on the tranny. one for the speedometer, two in the inhibitor, and one on the front for the valve/control stuffs. I don't know if the tranny can function without them, but then again, it could possibly go into a failsafe induced by a lack of signal from TCU, at which point you'd be stuck in 3rd always with no real way to regulate anything (no drop resistor, not TC control, no solenoid control)
question - does your power light blink on your power/comfort switch when you turn the key ON?
You know, That's what I been thinking about: a broken wire or some bad ground, but not on the TCU (I checked that already) I think this clown (mechanic) maybe break a connector or forgot to put a cable back (like those vacuum hoses) and that's causing the problem, but I don't know where to start since he mess up with the whole engine.
also there are like 4 connectors on the tranny. one for the speedometer, two in the inhibitor, and one on the front for the valve/control stuffs. I don't know if the tranny can function without them, but then again, it could possibly go into a failsafe induced by a lack of signal from TCU, at which point you'd be stuck in 3rd always with no real way to regulate anything (no drop resistor, not TC control, no solenoid control)
question - does your power light blink on your power/comfort switch when you turn the key ON?
#30
from another thread
i'd check the ground on the tranny, tbh. there's a black wire that clips onto a little flat terminal on the seam of the 2 halves of the tranny. it's on the top somewhere, but i forget where precisely... just follow the seam and you'll find it.
also there are like 4 connectors on the tranny. one for the speedometer, two in the inhibitor, and one on the front for the valve/control stuffs. I don't know if the tranny can function without them, but then again, it could possibly go into a failsafe induced by a lack of signal from TCU, at which point you'd be stuck in 3rd always with no real way to regulate anything (no drop resistor, not TC control, no solenoid control)
question - does your power light blink on your power/comfort switch when you turn the key ON?
i'd check the ground on the tranny, tbh. there's a black wire that clips onto a little flat terminal on the seam of the 2 halves of the tranny. it's on the top somewhere, but i forget where precisely... just follow the seam and you'll find it.
also there are like 4 connectors on the tranny. one for the speedometer, two in the inhibitor, and one on the front for the valve/control stuffs. I don't know if the tranny can function without them, but then again, it could possibly go into a failsafe induced by a lack of signal from TCU, at which point you'd be stuck in 3rd always with no real way to regulate anything (no drop resistor, not TC control, no solenoid control)
question - does your power light blink on your power/comfort switch when you turn the key ON?
which makes perfect sense for my problem since the shiftings are so weird and even sometimes it just can be picking up speed very slowly until 35-40mph where the car behaves much better. I might be wrong but that sounds like getting stuck on 3rd.
Sorry to be on the other thread, it was just because the question about the code 34.....
Yes! the P turns on, but doesn't blink, it just turns on for about 2 seconds
BTW, if there's still daylight when I get home today I'll try the video
#31
which makes perfect sense for my problem since the shiftings are so weird and even sometimes it just can be picking up speed very slowly until 35-40mph where the car behaves much better. I might be wrong but that sounds like getting stuck on 3rd.
Sorry to be on the other thread, it was just because the question about the code 34.....
Yes! the P turns on, but doesn't blink, it just turns on for about 2 seconds
BTW, if there's still daylight when I get home today I'll try the video
Sorry to be on the other thread, it was just because the question about the code 34.....
Yes! the P turns on, but doesn't blink, it just turns on for about 2 seconds
BTW, if there's still daylight when I get home today I'll try the video
p light on for 2 seconds is normal. mine used to blink b/c i rewired some stuff on my a/t (which may or may not be responsible for its ultimate and total failure), and when i used the rewired stuff, it would go "um wait what the heck?" and blink at me.
#32
Nope! to be honest....I don't know where are the 4 connectors, should I be under the car? or I can reach them by just taking out the intake tube? the only ones I was able to see are the ones from the inhib sw which I was testing the other day and one more under.....ummm I don't know how to name that... will try to take pictures tomorrow, too dark now and no flashlight available (dead batteries )
#33
Nope! to be honest....I don't know where are the 4 connectors, should I be under the car? or I can reach them by just taking out the intake tube? the only ones I was able to see are the ones from the inhib sw which I was testing the other day and one more under.....ummm I don't know how to name that... will try to take pictures tomorrow, too dark now and no flashlight available (dead batteries )
#35
For example, if you give me a picture of your house I'm not gonna be able to get there because of that picture, I need a guide, references and map of the adjacent streets.
I do really appreciate everybody's help and patience with my Poor mechanical knowledge, Thanks
#36
...ok... but these connectors under intake tube [no ? see] is a mystery to me...
... see my house ... get bigger pictures =goto: http://www.cardomain.com/ride/748507/15
... see my house ... get bigger pictures =goto: http://www.cardomain.com/ride/748507/15
#37
Hey! you upload more pictures on your page! I like the explanation on the inhib sw, that's easy to understand
I finally take that video, but I can't upload it, photobucket says limit is 100MB(5 minutes) mine is 130MB and 8 minutes, tried youtube but it's down everytime I tried to upload, where else can I try?
I finally take that video, but I can't upload it, photobucket says limit is 100MB(5 minutes) mine is 130MB and 8 minutes, tried youtube but it's down everytime I tried to upload, where else can I try?
#38
Hey! you upload more pictures on your page! I like the explanation on the inhib sw, that's easy to understand
I finally take that video, but I can't upload it, photobucket says limit is 100MB(5 minutes) mine is 130MB and 8 minutes, tried youtube but it's down everytime I tried to upload, where else can I try?
I finally take that video, but I can't upload it, photobucket says limit is 100MB(5 minutes) mine is 130MB and 8 minutes, tried youtube but it's down everytime I tried to upload, where else can I try?
at least, that's my free-fix for long videos. i've done it a few times for the Org.
#40
Finally!!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M43M6r7cslU
I live on an apartment complex so sorry for all the turning, first I film since the engine start so you can hear the vibration of the steeting wheel, you can see the idle needle how erratic is at start and if the vibrating noise is gone is because I'm holding the wheel.
On 3:55 I finally get to an ave and start accelerating gently, can't floor it there because there's a lot of traffic, but you can see my rpm going up and my speedometer barely moves.
Now after the next right turn (after a change of lane) there is the first time I floor it completely which is at 5:14 and I keep it floor it until 5:47 where stop light hold me on to keep doing it.
Next time I floor it is 6:10 and you see the car takes about 2 seconds to really start moving the needles.
Finally I park on a car wash and tried to film the noise on the engine bay just to check what do you think about it, but there's a lot of noise from the pressured water around,
Hey, it's my first video and I know I need to improve but that was the best I could to at the moment
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M43M6r7cslU
I live on an apartment complex so sorry for all the turning, first I film since the engine start so you can hear the vibration of the steeting wheel, you can see the idle needle how erratic is at start and if the vibrating noise is gone is because I'm holding the wheel.
On 3:55 I finally get to an ave and start accelerating gently, can't floor it there because there's a lot of traffic, but you can see my rpm going up and my speedometer barely moves.
Now after the next right turn (after a change of lane) there is the first time I floor it completely which is at 5:14 and I keep it floor it until 5:47 where stop light hold me on to keep doing it.
Next time I floor it is 6:10 and you see the car takes about 2 seconds to really start moving the needles.
Finally I park on a car wash and tried to film the noise on the engine bay just to check what do you think about it, but there's a lot of noise from the pressured water around,
Hey, it's my first video and I know I need to improve but that was the best I could to at the moment