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Old 03-05-2009, 05:26 PM   #1
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Stalling and rough running while idling or at low speed

Please Help!!!
My 1992 Nissan Maxima SE with 132,000 miles now stalls at stop lights or in stop and go traffic.
It also runs rough at low speeds or while idling in traffic, and stumbles badly upon acceleration.
There is also a loud sputtering noise while accelerating at low speeds.

Iíve been trying to track down this problem for a while, but this is the first time that the car has actually stalled out while I was driving it.
Iíve replaced the cam position sensor, idle air control, spark plugs, O2 sensor, ignition coils, fuel pump, fuel filter, and PCV Valve.
I have also tested the EGR Valve and the MAF sensor and they both are working normally.
Iím not sure if this problem is ignition or fuel related, but itís driving me absolutely nuts.

If any has any suggestions, please send them my way.

Thanks in advance for your help
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Old 03-05-2009, 05:43 PM   #2
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Originally Posted by sanford7575 View Post
Please Help!!!
My 1992 Nissan Maxima SE with 132,000 miles now stalls at stop lights or in stop and go traffic.
It also runs rough at low speeds or while idling in traffic, and stumbles badly upon acceleration.
There is also a loud sputtering noise while accelerating at low speeds.

Iíve been trying to track down this problem for a while, but this is the first time that the car has actually stalled out while I was driving it.
Iíve replaced the cam position sensor, idle air control, spark plugs, O2 sensor, ignition coils, fuel pump, fuel filter, and PCV Valve.
I have also tested the EGR Valve and the MAF sensor and they both are working normally.
Iím not sure if this problem is ignition or fuel related, but itís driving me absolutely nuts.

If any has any suggestions, please send them my way.

Thanks in advance for your help
Could be a dead injector. to test for that, unplug your coils one at a time (so that 5 are always plugged in) until you find one that makes NO change in idle when you unplug it. If the idle stays exactly the same when you unplug that coil, then that cylinder is not firing to begin with.
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1986 Nissan 300zx: VG30E | NA2T + FMIC | 5spd swap w/
30A | R200 CLSD | Bilstein | MSA 26mm sways | 88/89T susp/brakes + Poly | 17x9 Cobra-R's w/ 255(f)/275(r)-40-17
1987 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme Sedan: V6 3.8 2bbl | 3spd Auto | 85-87 IROC-Z 16x8 | LT1 + T56 and suspension mods coming soon...
1990 Nissan Maxima GXE: VG30E | VLSD 5spd Swap | A33b F BBK | Z31 R BBK | Eibach | Tokico | Addco RSB | ASP | Warpspeed | G35 Sedan 17x7
1997 Audi A4: V6 2.8 | 5spd | Quattro AWD | Santorin Blue Pearl
1998 Nissan Pathfinder SE: VG33E | 5spd | 4WD | Towing Package
2001 BMW 530i: M54B30 I6 | 5spd | Sport package

(I think I need more cars)

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I have the strangest boner right now.....
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I find it to be thick and delightful
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Old 03-05-2009, 08:05 PM   #3
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check the resistance on your injectors
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96 Gold I30 here
2000 Gold GXE gone | 95 White GLE modded gone |95 GLE white A/T gone
96 Green A/T gone | 94 Pathfinder POS GONE! | 79 Camaro sold
98 I30t Silver on black A/T gone | 96 Granite Pearl (AKA Purple) A/T gone | 92 grey VE A/T gone
96 I30 Black gone | 92 maroon VE A/T gone | 92 white VE M/T gone
92 grey VE A/T gone | 6/84 L24E last of the RWD Maxima gone
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Old 03-05-2009, 08:11 PM   #4
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what should the resistance be???
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Old 03-05-2009, 08:52 PM   #5
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what should the resistance be???
10-14 ohms
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1986 Nissan 300zx: VG30E | NA2T + FMIC | 5spd swap w/
30A | R200 CLSD | Bilstein | MSA 26mm sways | 88/89T susp/brakes + Poly | 17x9 Cobra-R's w/ 255(f)/275(r)-40-17
1987 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme Sedan: V6 3.8 2bbl | 3spd Auto | 85-87 IROC-Z 16x8 | LT1 + T56 and suspension mods coming soon...
1990 Nissan Maxima GXE: VG30E | VLSD 5spd Swap | A33b F BBK | Z31 R BBK | Eibach | Tokico | Addco RSB | ASP | Warpspeed | G35 Sedan 17x7
1997 Audi A4: V6 2.8 | 5spd | Quattro AWD | Santorin Blue Pearl
1998 Nissan Pathfinder SE: VG33E | 5spd | 4WD | Towing Package
2001 BMW 530i: M54B30 I6 | 5spd | Sport package

(I think I need more cars)

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I have the strangest boner right now.....
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I find it to be thick and delightful
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Old 03-07-2009, 06:40 PM   #6
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Stalling and rough running whil idling or at low speed

Tested the injectors and they are fine.

Today I reinstalled the plugs and coils and resealed the gasket on the egr valve because of a vacuum leak. The stalling and hesitation on acceleration has subsided, but the idle is still rough at stop lights. While idling rough, the rpm guage wavers in between 750 and 550 rpm.

Any other suggestions given the current symptoms now?
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Old 03-07-2009, 07:08 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sanford7575 View Post
Tested the injectors and they are fine.

Today I reinstalled the plugs and coils and resealed the gasket on the egr valve because of a vacuum leak. The stalling and hesitation on acceleration has subsided, but the idle is still rough at stop lights. While idling rough, the rpm guage wavers in between 750 and 550 rpm.

Any other suggestions given the current symptoms now?
try cleaning your maf, throttle body, iacv, and all your electrical connectors (clean any green corrosion out of them, and put dielectric grease in them to prevent the corrosion from coming back). doublecheck elsewhere for vacuum leaks.

also did you check your ECU for error codes yet? the check engine light rarely comes on on our cars, whether an error was detected or not.
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1986 Nissan 300zx: VG30E | NA2T + FMIC | 5spd swap w/
30A | R200 CLSD | Bilstein | MSA 26mm sways | 88/89T susp/brakes + Poly | 17x9 Cobra-R's w/ 255(f)/275(r)-40-17
1987 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme Sedan: V6 3.8 2bbl | 3spd Auto | 85-87 IROC-Z 16x8 | LT1 + T56 and suspension mods coming soon...
1990 Nissan Maxima GXE: VG30E | VLSD 5spd Swap | A33b F BBK | Z31 R BBK | Eibach | Tokico | Addco RSB | ASP | Warpspeed | G35 Sedan 17x7
1997 Audi A4: V6 2.8 | 5spd | Quattro AWD | Santorin Blue Pearl
1998 Nissan Pathfinder SE: VG33E | 5spd | 4WD | Towing Package
2001 BMW 530i: M54B30 I6 | 5spd | Sport package

(I think I need more cars)

Quote:
Originally Posted by MinervaMaxxxima View Post
I have the strangest boner right now.....
Quote:
Originally Posted by litch View Post
I find it to be thick and delightful
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Old 03-08-2009, 04:54 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sanford7575 View Post
Tested the injectors and they are fine.

Today I reinstalled the plugs and coils and resealed the gasket on the egr valve because of a vacuum leak. The stalling and hesitation on acceleration has subsided, but the idle is still rough at stop lights. While idling rough, the rpm guage wavers in between 750 and 550 rpm.

Any other suggestions given the current symptoms now?
if youve already replaced the iacv fuel pump and filter then id look at the MAf or electrical wires the maf will still test and show its working if its filthy a bottle of crc should fix it if not id look at the alternator, electric connections, and maybe even the battery....you might just have to clean the battery terminals
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Old 03-30-2009, 02:16 PM   #9
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i had the same problem, and i just cleaned the connectors to "air mass sensor"...and put on some copper-paste.....

that works very well
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Old 03-30-2009, 03:47 PM   #10
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Did you do all 6 injectors or just the one's you can get to?
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Old 03-30-2009, 08:57 PM   #11
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My solution: Stalling and rough running while idling or at low speed

After multiple futile attempts to fix I took my ride to the stealership and had the diagnostic run for $98.00.

My problems turned out to be a number of things...

First and foremost the MAF Sensor was bad.
Second, Injector# 4 was bad; all others read between 11-12, and it read 5 when the stealership tested.
Third, the TPS was bad.
Fourth, the CTS was bad.

$235 in parts and 1 saturday afternoon and I am back running again. It runs smooth, but now it lacks the punch it once had. I think I'm done trying to fix.

I also found out that the fuel tank vent hose is leaking and the vtc's are clacking; I'm not fixing either.

I'm on the prowl for an I30; please let me know if anyone has one for sale!

Thanks again for everyone's help and suggestions!
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Old 03-30-2009, 08:57 PM
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