sanford7575

Please Help!!!
My 1992 Nissan Maxima SE with 132,000 miles now stalls at stop lights or in stop and go traffic.
It also runs rough at low speeds or while idling in traffic, and stumbles badly upon acceleration.
There is also a loud sputtering noise while accelerating at low speeds.

I’ve been trying to track down this problem for a while, but this is the first time that the car has actually stalled out while I was driving it.
I’ve replaced the cam position sensor, idle air control, spark plugs, O2 sensor, ignition coils, fuel pump, fuel filter, and PCV Valve.
I have also tested the EGR Valve and the MAF sensor and they both are working normally.
I’m not sure if this problem is ignition or fuel related, but it’s driving me absolutely nuts.

If any has any suggestions, please send them my way.

Thanks in advance for your help

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

Could be a dead injector. to test for that, unplug your coils one at a time (so that 5 are always plugged in) until you find one that makes NO change in idle when you unplug it. If the idle stays exactly the same when you unplug that coil, then that cylinder is not firing to begin with.

internetautomar

iTrader: (30)

check the resistance on your injectors

sanford7575

what should the resistance be???

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

10-14 ohms

sanford7575

Tested the injectors and they are fine.

Today I reinstalled the plugs and coils and resealed the gasket on the egr valve because of a vacuum leak. The stalling and hesitation on acceleration has subsided, but the idle is still rough at stop lights. While idling rough, the rpm guage wavers in between 750 and 550 rpm.

Any other suggestions given the current symptoms now?

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

try cleaning your maf, throttle body, iacv, and all your electrical connectors (clean any green corrosion out of them, and put dielectric grease in them to prevent the corrosion from coming back). doublecheck elsewhere for vacuum leaks.

also did you check your ECU for error codes yet? the check engine light rarely comes on on our cars, whether an error was detected or not.

sleepyvg30e

iTrader: (1)

if youve already replaced the iacv fuel pump and filter then id look at the MAf or electrical wires the maf will still test and show its working if its filthy a bottle of crc should fix it if not id look at the alternator, electric connections, and maybe even the battery....you might just have to clean the battery terminals

patchie

i had the same problem, and i just cleaned the connectors to "air mass sensor"...and put on some copper-paste.....

that works very well

biggz2332

iTrader: (5)

Did you do all 6 injectors or just the one's you can get to?

sanford7575

After multiple futile attempts to fix I took my ride to the stealership and had the diagnostic run for $98.00.

My problems turned out to be a number of things...

First and foremost the MAF Sensor was bad.
Second, Injector# 4 was bad; all others read between 11-12, and it read 5 when the stealership tested.
Third, the TPS was bad.
Fourth, the CTS was bad.

$235 in parts and 1 saturday afternoon and I am back running again. It runs smooth, but now it lacks the punch it once had. I think I'm done trying to fix.

I also found out that the fuel tank vent hose is leaking and the vtc's are clacking; I'm not fixing either.

I'm on the prowl for an I30; please let me know if anyone has one for sale!

Thanks again for everyone's help and suggestions!