RE4F02A Torque Converter Install - Phasta Write Up
#1
RE4F02A Torque Converter Install - Phasta Write Up
Caped, I read the write up from Phasta, it's really good. Today I got all the way to the point where I'm ready to place the tranny jack under, everything is removed, just need to un-bolt the mounts, and the engine to trans gussets.
One thing that really confuses me though, is the risk he talks about when re-installing, about the distance from the torque converter to the bellhousing flange....what is he talking about, measuring it and whatnot.
Once I remove the whole assy, does the torque converter slip around or move position or something?
One thing that really confuses me though, is the risk he talks about when re-installing, about the distance from the torque converter to the bellhousing flange....what is he talking about, measuring it and whatnot.
Once I remove the whole assy, does the torque converter slip around or move position or something?
#2
When installing make sure the torque converter is lock into the transmission, there is a key way on converter and it must match the transmission to slip in correctly. Easy to do with transmission out.
#3
what he meant is that (as i found out) the t/c is not firmly connected to the input shaft splines, so it will slide off, and you have to make sure it doesn't un-seat. when i was doing my brother's rear main on his Camry, the t/c slid a little, and i thought i pushed it back in enough but when i tried to install it i couldn't get the tranny on. so i pulled it off, wiggled/rotated/pushed-on the t/c and eventually it sank in another inch, and everything fit perfectly.
basically if the t/c pulls too far away from the tranny, the spline teeth will not be properly engaged. best-case-scenario you have no drive and just have to do it again, worst-case-scenario you strip the fawk out of the splines on the trans and t/c.
basically if the t/c pulls too far away from the tranny, the spline teeth will not be properly engaged. best-case-scenario you have no drive and just have to do it again, worst-case-scenario you strip the fawk out of the splines on the trans and t/c.
#4
I had this happen when I installed mine last time. I didn't notice it until I had everything lined up and the housing-to-motor bolts finger tight. I ended up having to drop it back down to get the t/c to seat correctly. Then it together with no problems. The fact that your aware it can happen will cause you to pay attention.
#5
OK thanks guys, I think it may have moved a bit, I had to move the jack sideways and the drive plate seemed to get wedged a bit. I'm going to remove the TQ anyways so I'll make sure I re-seat it properly when I re-install it.
I did get it out and it's in the trunk right now, I just need to get a second guy to help me get it out. Can you guys confirm it was less than 200 lbs? It feels really heavy, I can't lift it out myself. Worse comes to worse I'll have to set up the engine hoist to lift it out...I almost damaged the oil cooler barbs when the weight of it rolled over by itself in the trunk.
I did get it out and it's in the trunk right now, I just need to get a second guy to help me get it out. Can you guys confirm it was less than 200 lbs? It feels really heavy, I can't lift it out myself. Worse comes to worse I'll have to set up the engine hoist to lift it out...I almost damaged the oil cooler barbs when the weight of it rolled over by itself in the trunk.
#6
so you just got it out? why did you remove it anyhow, rear main seal replacement? anyhow when you replace it it's best to use a tranny jack. the a/t is monstrously heavy. try to line it up as best you can before letting the tranny contact the engine, mainly because if you miss the pilot hole the first time, the momentum of the collision might unseat the t/c. if you can get 5 super-long bellhousing-to-block bolts, you can use them to slide along and line it up perfectly.
#7
ok. so see those notches on the collar of the t/c? that's what sinks in after you rotate it a little bit. i had my bro's t/c out just enough to where it was on the non-recessed part of the collar, so i had to turn it and get it re-seated. also note there is an oil seal down there. you might want to replace that if you take the t/c out.
#8
2nd Gen Boostinator
iTrader: (14)
ok whats all this business about sliding t/c around, it still does bolt to the flexplate right?
once it is bolted up then make sure the oil pump teeth the 2 notches are aligned up)most important ones the other ones will just slide into place because theyre so m\small and too many of them
once it is bolted up then make sure the oil pump teeth the 2 notches are aligned up)most important ones the other ones will just slide into place because theyre so m\small and too many of them
#9
ok whats all this business about sliding t/c around, it still does bolt to the flexplate right?
once it is bolted up then make sure the oil pump teeth the 2 notches are aligned up)most important ones the other ones will just slide into place because theyre so m\small and too many of them
once it is bolted up then make sure the oil pump teeth the 2 notches are aligned up)most important ones the other ones will just slide into place because theyre so m\small and too many of them
#10
Where is this write up by Phasta?
#11
#13
seal shaft nissan maxima ca33 year 2000 v6 3.0 l
--------------------------
Hello
thanks from information me where can I find attached side spi 44x59x6.8
circle of friends.
Makes no sense to me but I don't know the auto trans.
Mods - can you make MATMED's post (and maybe my response into its own thread in the 5th gen section?
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