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Old 12-02-2009, 03:21 AM   #1
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Throw Out(Release) Bearing?

ok my car has a grinding metal sound coming out whenever my clutch isnt pressed in but as soon as i press it in...the sound disappears...took my two different mechanics and was told my release bearing has gone seriously bad...is this true? plus just recently it started having difficulty going into any gear? any idea forum big shots? if that is true about my release bearing im going ahead and gettin the full clutch kit so i would need some advice on which brands to avoid and ones to look into plus...a detailed how-to because me and a buddy plan on doing the work this weekend....any help would be greatly appreciated...i would like mines up and running again by the time the NWP meet comes on the 13th...
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Old 12-02-2009, 04:04 AM   #2
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input shaft bearing. requires tranny disassembly, iirc.
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Old 12-02-2009, 06:01 AM   #3
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input shaft bearing. requires tranny disassembly, iirc.
+1
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Old 12-02-2009, 06:17 AM   #4
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+1

tranny was just replaced less than a month ago, has less than 2k on new tranny...are ya'll positive thats my issue even when the clutch gets pressed in and the sound goes away until it gets released? how much would that run me? would it be a tranny rebuild?
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Old 12-02-2009, 08:03 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MaximaFan4140 View Post
tranny was just replaced less than a month ago, has less than 2k on new tranny...are ya'll positive thats my issue even when the clutch gets pressed in and the sound goes away until it gets released? how much would that run me? would it be a tranny rebuild?
the TOB is only under pressure when the clutch pedal is under pressure. this is a push-type clutch, so when you push the pedal, it pushes the slave cylinder, which pushes the fork, which pushes on the TOB (that is when you would hear TOB grinding if it were bad) which flips the diaphragm spring inside-out to release pressure on the clutch disc.

you might have gotten jipped with your "new" tranny.

it won't require a full rebuild. just to be taken apart and have the input shaft bearings replaced. you don't have to replace any synchros or anything.. just the bearings (1 on bellhousing side, 1 on wheel side)

i ran an exedy OEM-replacement clutch on mine (did you ever drive mine?). It was pretty good.. but i liked the LUK clutch that came on the parts car just a little bit better just cuz the pedal wasn't as heavy. and unless you are going beyond just bolt-ons (nitrous, turbo, or headwork+big cams) OEM or Stage1 (exedy and ACT are usually what people like for stage 1) will be plenty grippy enough.

o and what's Jill driving these days? the black car in your sig?
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Old 12-02-2009, 10:50 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MaximaFan4140 View Post
ok my car has a grinding metal sound coming out whenever my clutch isnt pressed in but as soon as i press it in...the sound disappears...took my two different mechanics and was told my release bearing has gone seriously bad...is this true? plus just recently it started having difficulty going into any gear? any idea forum big shots? if that is true about my release bearing im going ahead and gettin the full clutch kit so i would need some advice on which brands to avoid and ones to look into plus...a detailed how-to because me and a buddy plan on doing the work this weekend....any help would be greatly appreciated...i would like mines up and running again by the time the NWP meet comes on the 13th...
This is quoted from my Automotive booklet - "Manual transmissions & Transaxles 4th edition/Shop manual" - Author: Jack Erjavec

"A simple test can help you locate noisy clutch system bearings.
1.) Set the parking brake, put the transmission in neutral, and start the engine and allow the engine to idle.
2.) Leave the clutch engaged.
3.) Listen to all sounds emitted by the engine and transmission. If you hear any bearing noise, the problem is the transmission's input shaft bearing, input pocket bearing, counter shaft bearings, or speed gear needle bearings

All of these are in motion w/ the engine running, tranny is neutral, and clutch engaged.

*4.) NOW with the transmission still in neutral and the engine running, push the clutch pedal only to the end of the free-play. This will put the throw-out bearing in contact with the Clutch fingers, but not enough to disengage the clutch.

*Any bearing noises there (which obviously you do not have) in this position indicate the problem as the Throw-out bearing."

So yeah, it does seem like your input shaft bearing is your best bet!
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Old 12-02-2009, 07:47 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CapedCadaver View Post
the TOB is only under pressure when the clutch pedal is under pressure. this is a push-type clutch, so when you push the pedal, it pushes the slave cylinder, which pushes the fork, which pushes on the TOB (that is when you would hear TOB grinding if it were bad) which flips the diaphragm spring inside-out to release pressure on the clutch disc.

you might have gotten jipped with your "new" tranny.

it won't require a full rebuild. just to be taken apart and have the input shaft bearings replaced. you don't have to replace any synchros or anything.. just the bearings (1 on bellhousing side, 1 on wheel side)

i ran an exedy OEM-replacement clutch on mine (did you ever drive mine?). It was pretty good.. but i liked the LUK clutch that came on the parts car just a little bit better just cuz the pedal wasn't as heavy. and unless you are going beyond just bolt-ons (nitrous, turbo, or headwork+big cams) OEM or Stage1 (exedy and ACT are usually what people like for stage 1) will be plenty grippy enough.

o and what's Jill driving these days? the black car in your sig?

yeah thats her 96 GLE...she was begging me to get her a Maxima since we bought that Toyota Avalon then she totalled it about 2 months ago and i found the green 96 for 1100 cash.......any ideas of how much it will cost to replace the input shaft bearings?? is it something i can do myself?
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Old 12-02-2009, 08:03 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MaximaFan4140 View Post
yeah thats her 96 GLE...she was begging me to get her a Maxima since we bought that Toyota Avalon then she totalled it about 2 months ago and i found the green 96 for 1100 cash.......any ideas of how much it will cost to replace the input shaft bearings?? is it something i can do myself?
eh, it has to be shimmed to put the proper preload on it so that's something i'd let a professional do.. you can remove the tranny and take it to them, but that's as far as I would dig into it myself. then just pick up the repaired tranny and put it back in the car, i guess with a new clutch if you wanted to do that anyways. new output shaft/axle seals are generally recommended when you remove the axles to ge the tranny out.. i think you got new ones when i did the engine swap right? anyways it'll be cheaper if you just hand them a tranny rather than having them take it out of the car for you

what's your time frame on this anyohw? and which is a bigger concern, car downtime or money to get the tranny fixed?
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Old 12-02-2009, 08:14 PM   #9
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Originally Posted by CapedCadaver View Post
eh, it has to be shimmed to put the proper preload on it so that's something i'd let a professional do.. you can remove the tranny and take it to them, but that's as far as I would dig into it myself. then just pick up the repaired tranny and put it back in the car, i guess with a new clutch if you wanted to do that anyways. new output shaft/axle seals are generally recommended when you remove the axles to ge the tranny out.. i think you got new ones when i did the engine swap right? anyways it'll be cheaper if you just hand them a tranny rather than having them take it out of the car for you

what's your time frame on this anyohw? and which is a bigger concern, car downtime or money to get the tranny fixed?
more like car downtime is killing me right now cuz the 96 GLE is in the shop getting the brake lines and gas lines replaced...
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Old 12-02-2009, 08:40 PM   #10
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Don't ever go back to those two mechanics.
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Old 12-03-2009, 12:37 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CapedCadaver View Post
eh, it has to be shimmed to put the proper preload on it so that's something i'd let a professional do.. you can remove the tranny and take it to them, but that's as far as I would dig into it myself. then just pick up the repaired tranny and put it back in the car, i guess with a new clutch if you wanted to do that anyways. new output shaft/axle seals are generally recommended when you remove the axles to ge the tranny out.. i think you got new ones when i did the engine swap right? anyways it'll be cheaper if you just hand them a tranny rather than having them take it out of the car for you

what's your time frame on this anyohw? and which is a bigger concern, car downtime or money to get the tranny fixed?

more so more than anything also im wondering about prices to have this work done? i havent seen many tranny shops here around town and i hate being down to one car between me and the ol lady once again lol
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Old 12-03-2009, 02:00 AM   #12
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If you pulled it and brought it into a shop, you shouldn't have to pay much more than a couple hundred bucks to have it replaced. The bearing is $25. If a shop can't do it in 2 hours at $100 an hour, then they have problems.
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Old 12-03-2009, 03:37 AM   #13
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Dude i got the same problem, i m gonna start working on it tomorrow and yank the tranny out and take it to my college where i went for my service technician diploma. My instructer is an automatic transmission specialist too so he can help me out to change the dam isb. I wouldnt recommend u to do the internal tranny work and would suggest u to take it to shop unlss u have a spare car and can take ur time on it by following the fsm. But still u will be confused and mess up something unless someone can show u once. Dam cant write on iphone lol gud luck
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Old 12-03-2009, 07:43 AM   #14
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Dude i got the same problem, i m gonna start working on it tomorrow and yank the tranny out and take it to my college where i went for my service technician diploma. My instructer is an automatic transmission specialist too so he can help me out to change the dam isb. I wouldnt recommend u to do the internal tranny work and would suggest u to take it to shop unlss u have a spare car and can take ur time on it by following the fsm. But still u will be confused and mess up something unless someone can show u once. Dam cant write on iphone lol gud luck

what happens to my tranny when that input shaft bearing goes out??? does my car not go into gears at all or what because at the point in time from the prices im getting for the work im no where near having the money to get this done and im unfortunately having to drive it still atleast until my 96 comes out the shop.
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Old 12-03-2009, 08:20 AM   #15
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Quote:
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what happens to my tranny when that input shaft bearing goes out??? does my car not go into gears at all or what because at the point in time from the prices im getting for the work im no where near having the money to get this done and im unfortunately having to drive it still atleast until my 96 comes out the shop.
well i'd imagine there'd be some metal shavings in the fluid if you let it go too long. and those metal shavings can get where they don't belong and jam stuff. it happened to greeny, locked him out of 1st and 2nd and sometimes 3rd.
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30A | R200 CLSD | Bilstein | MSA 26mm sways | 88/89T susp/brakes + Poly | 17x9 Cobra-R's w/ 255(f)/275(r)-40-17
1987 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme Sedan: V6 3.8 2bbl | 3spd Auto | 85-87 IROC-Z 16x8 | LT1 + T56 and suspension mods coming soon...
1990 Nissan Maxima GXE: VG30E | VLSD 5spd Swap | A33b F BBK | Z31 R BBK | Eibach | Tokico | Addco RSB | ASP | Warpspeed | G35 Sedan 17x7
1997 Audi A4: V6 2.8 | 5spd | Quattro AWD | Santorin Blue Pearl
1998 Nissan Pathfinder SE: VG33E | 5spd | 4WD | Towing Package
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Quote:
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I have the strangest boner right now.....
Quote:
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I find it to be thick and delightful
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