Transmission Issue Help Please. THX
12-30-2009, 07:34 AM
#1
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Temecula CA.
Posts: 30
Transmission Issue Help Please. THX
92 Max 4 spd auto, wont shift from 1 to 2 unless I let off the gas, I tested the TPS was reading about two ohms closed, and went to open when opening the throdel. I replaced the TPS thinking okay easy fix, adjusted it proper and car still has same condition. car only has 103K on it and has been babied. Although it looks like the fluid has never been changed, it still has some red tint to it and is a little burnt, but not real nasty. If anybody has a flow chart for electrical diagnosis it would be helpful, I Think? BTW It is a VG30E The one with the red valve covers and intake facing the front of the car. Thank you very much for your help. Dawned on me does replacing the TPS require a RE-Learn driving time, I only took it up the block and back.
Last edited by litezoner; 12-30-2009 at 07:38 AM.
12-30-2009, 11:32 AM
#2
92 Max 4 spd auto, wont shift from 1 to 2 unless I let off the gas, I tested the TPS was reading about two ohms closed, and went to open when opening the throdel. I replaced the TPS thinking okay easy fix, adjusted it proper and car still has same condition. car only has 103K on it and has been babied. Although it looks like the fluid has never been changed, it still has some red tint to it and is a little burnt, but not real nasty. If anybody has a flow chart for electrical diagnosis it would be helpful, I Think? BTW It is a VG30E The one with the red valve covers and intake facing the front of the car. Thank you very much for your help. Dawned on me does replacing the TPS require a RE-Learn driving time, I only took it up the block and back.
The 89-94 SOHC automatic trans (VG30e) is a very common trans to go bad so chances are that it's time to replace it. Another thing you can try doing is cleaning all the connections, I know I've read on here a few years ago that it has helped several members get smooth shifts or something like that. I'll let someone else take a shot at this one
12-30-2009, 01:25 PM
#3
92 Max 4 spd auto, wont shift from 1 to 2 unless I let off the gas, I tested the TPS was reading about two ohms closed, and went to open when opening the throdel. I replaced the TPS thinking okay easy fix, adjusted it proper and car still has same condition. car only has 103K on it and has been babied. Although it looks like the fluid has never been changed, it still has some red tint to it and is a little burnt, but not real nasty. If anybody has a flow chart for electrical diagnosis it would be helpful, I Think? BTW It is a VG30E The one with the red valve covers and intake facing the front of the car. Thank you very much for your help. Dawned on me does replacing the TPS require a RE-Learn driving time, I only took it up the block and back.
12-30-2009, 02:35 PM
#5
Does the engine rev up strangely high before it will shift as well? With mine, which I don't know for sure what the deal is, I have to get it up to 4-5k just to get it in second gear, and there is very little power............ Just wondering if you have the same thing going on.
12-30-2009, 03:30 PM
#6
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Temecula CA.
Posts: 30
what is your speedometer reading when you it shifts into 2nd? if it's slipping, the rpm will be higher than normal for a given speed. granted on automatics there is no locked correlation between speed and RPM but 1st gear on a VG auto 3rd gen should redline at about 40mph
it about 30 35 MPH, then I let off the gas and it shifts to second gear, If I just let it go it will eventually shift to second at 4-5K RPM
You know, I cant seem to get this into the diagnosis mode, I have done the procedure time and time again with no results,The light on the power switch does work. Wondering now if the TCU went bad?
Last edited by litezoner; 12-30-2009 at 03:32 PM.
12-30-2009, 05:01 PM
#8
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Temecula CA.
Posts: 30
The switch is in the normal mode all the time, This condition started about two weeks ago, before that it would shift very smooth and at what I called normal shift points without over reving the engine.
12-30-2009, 05:33 PM
#9
. Kidding aside what caped was referring to were rpms jumping up just before the shift and then down right after - meaning engine gets disengaged momentarily during the shift. In other words transmission 'slips'. Do you see this pattern in your case?
12-30-2009, 06:50 PM
#10
what is your speedometer reading when you it shifts into 2nd? if it's slipping, the rpm will be higher than normal for a given speed. granted on automatics there is no locked correlation between speed and RPM but 1st gear on a VG auto 3rd gen should redline at about 40mph
, and these symptoms were present before I began that project. I am not trying to hurt my rebuilt engine by stomping the gas to see what happens, b/c I have yet had the chance to formally break it in. Before the rebuild when I would be climbing a good hill, I would stomp it, which would cause the engine to rev up, then the car would gain momentum, and then shift up after riding in between 4.5-6K rpms for what felt like too long. The power loss was evident then, and as I mentioned, I thought it was timing. So, I have checked a few things to see what is apparent:- TPS checked okay and is adjusted
- Speed Sensor working after reconnecting wires (were torn whilst out of the car and in the house)
- Resistance measured in all the tranny/solenoid circuits with the Shift B Solenoid showing up as 3 ohms, not 20-40 as it should be
- TCU test not working like litezoner described:
You know, I cant seem to get this into the diagnosis mode, I have done the procedure time and time again with no results,The light on the power switch does work. Wondering now if the TCU went bad?
12-30-2009, 07:03 PM
#11
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Temecula CA.
Posts: 30
Some people drive like that all the time and would start worrying if it starts to shift at lower rpm . Kidding aside what caped was referring to were rpms jumping up just before the shift and then down right after - meaning engine gets disengaged momentarily during the shift. In other words transmission 'slips'. Do you see this pattern in your case?
. Kidding aside what caped was referring to were rpms jumping up just before the shift and then down right after - meaning engine gets disengaged momentarily during the shift. In other words transmission 'slips'. Do you see this pattern in your case?
12-30-2009, 07:03 PM
#12
actually, your posts are quite understandable. it is a relief to see a newbie be able to express themselves so well, with no slang, and an understanding of what's going on (not flaming anyone; look at some of my first posts
. hell, look at some of my recent posts... 
)ignoring the vg30De thing, of course
12-30-2009, 07:09 PM
#13
actually, your posts are quite understandable. it is a relief to see a newbie be able to express themselves so well, with no slang, and an understanding of what's going on (not flaming anyone; look at some of my first posts . hell, look at some of my recent posts... )
ignoring the vg30De thing, of course
. hell, look at some of my recent posts... )ignoring the vg30De thing, of course
now look at me, Z31 turbo 
12-31-2009, 06:35 AM
#15
I hope someone can help reconfirm my thoughts about the issue we are facing. I could use a helping voice seeing as my problem is getting no better and is preventing me from using my rebuilt VG......... As soon as I fix the auto I can swap a 5 spd in and be amongst the ranks of the cool people on here; or at least get a whiff of the cool scent coming from them..............
12-31-2009, 06:51 AM
#16
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Temecula CA.
Posts: 30
My speedometer is typically between 15-25 mph with the tach needle hitting upwards of 4-5k. If I am going downhill, I do get into the 30's AND 2nd gear, but the power loss is very troubling. I just rebuilt the engine, hoping to solve my woes as I thought it was a timing issue , and these symptoms were present before I began that project. I am not trying to hurt my rebuilt engine by stomping the gas to see what happens, b/c I have yet had the chance to formally break it in. Before the rebuild when I would be climbing a good hill, I would stomp it, which would cause the engine to rev up, then the car would gain momentum, and then shift up after riding in between 4.5-6K rpms for what felt like too long. The power loss was evident then, and as I mentioned, I thought it was timing. So, I have checked a few things to see what is apparent:
So, now I will check the A/T selector switch and see if it is ok and go from there. I cracked the tranny open to change the filter and I am afraid I messed up somewhere because there is a leak. IMO, my conditions are an extreme version of litezoners, so perhaps any help may be useful to both of us, and I say that with confidence b/c it never dawned upon me until now that I experienced a slow progression of these symptoms. I hope my posts aren't too wordy or confusing, the help I get from you guys is priceless, and I hope to help others in a similar fashion in the future.
, and these symptoms were present before I began that project. I am not trying to hurt my rebuilt engine by stomping the gas to see what happens, b/c I have yet had the chance to formally break it in. Before the rebuild when I would be climbing a good hill, I would stomp it, which would cause the engine to rev up, then the car would gain momentum, and then shift up after riding in between 4.5-6K rpms for what felt like too long. The power loss was evident then, and as I mentioned, I thought it was timing. So, I have checked a few things to see what is apparent:- TPS checked okay and is adjusted
So, now I will check the A/T selector switch and see if it is ok and go from there. I cracked the tranny open to change the filter and I am afraid I messed up somewhere because there is a leak. IMO, my conditions are an extreme version of litezoners, so perhaps any help may be useful to both of us, and I say that with confidence b/c it never dawned upon me until now that I experienced a slow progression of these symptoms. I hope my posts aren't too wordy or confusing, the help I get from you guys is priceless, and I hope to help others in a similar fashion in the future.
12-31-2009, 06:51 AM
#17
I hope someone can help reconfirm my thoughts about the issue we are facing. I could use a helping voice seeing as my problem is getting no better and is preventing me from using my rebuilt VG......... As soon as I fix the auto I can swap a 5 spd in and be amongst the ranks of the cool people on here; or at least get a whiff of the cool scent coming from them..............
12-31-2009, 07:03 AM
#18
I am no expert on transmissions, electrical is more my bag of tricks and always learning. Based on what you are describing and all the reading I have been doing along with my own experience You tranny seems to be slipping but thats just my opinion, when my car was op, going uphill it would downshift at around 3K rpm and you would feel that right away, it should be swift and sharp. Yours sounds like it is just reving up to much before going into the passing gear. I am really leaning toward a new TCU for my car, since it won't go into the diagnostic mode, I just feel like that is the issue, and Damn, those screws are really hard to get to, the ones in the back by the firewall, what a PITA. I will have the replacement in a few day and let you all know what the deal is.
This does seem plausible, but I want to have it working before I take it out in case I need to put it back in or sell it. I have a 92 GXE coming my way and figure a spare tranny wouldn't be a bad idea since these cars and their components aren't getting any younger....... Mostly though, I just feel compelled to fix the problem I thought I had fix 3 or 4 times.
12-31-2009, 07:27 AM
#19
but you have a new engine, and are wasting it on a traashy auto. swap 'em out, and be down with it!
once you have it out, you can have it rebuilt by a pro, and it should be okay for another 30-50k miles, in whatever you put it in.
once you have it out, you can have it rebuilt by a pro, and it should be okay for another 30-50k miles, in whatever you put it in.
12-31-2009, 07:39 AM
#20
Plus it was rebuilt less than 30K ago which was around 3-4 years ago. It is my first car, I did treat it unfairly, and I think this is why it's back lashing in torment of my foolishness. Hopefully I can mend the wounds........
12-31-2009, 07:44 AM
#21
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Temecula CA.
Posts: 30
is that really all these auto's are good for 30-50K Mine has 103K on it, am I on Borrowed time? I thought I had a nissan, Not a dodge. Lol... Those caravan trannys are mush, if u get 40-60K out of them, your lucky sometimes. Big mistake it seems having electrical transmissions with solonoids, they all seem to have their share of troubles, I really liked the old style chevy turbo 350 trans, man you could get 200K out of those babys with very little maintenance. The torque converter went out on mine at 255K, put in a new one, and good as new, Probably still running strong somewhere. The introduction of the computer controlled transmission spawned the dawn of a slew of transmission repair shops.
12-31-2009, 08:15 AM
#22
You sound like the little voice in the back of my head which I have to ignore and not allow myself to be aggravated by! I understand that concept, but if I can fix it while it is on the car and use the opportunity to diagnose it further before giving up on it, I think I will be better off financially and in confidence of my abilities. I am afraid of shops, they make my wallet hide deeper in my pocket, and then the little voice would get louder and louder..............
Plus it was rebuilt less than 30K ago which was around 3-4 years ago. It is my first car, I did treat it unfairly, and I think this is why it's back lashing in torment of my foolishness. Hopefully I can mend the wounds........
Plus it was rebuilt less than 30K ago which was around 3-4 years ago. It is my first car, I did treat it unfairly, and I think this is why it's back lashing in torment of my foolishness. Hopefully I can mend the wounds........
yes, I am that voice, and only you can see these posts....I understand your desire to fix a problem before you proceed, but sometimes you have to remember; it's a vg auto, they suck. 30k, and 3 years isn't too bad for a rebuild (see previous post
), especially for a noob driver (gotta learn somewhere, tho). It's had a good life, and all that.... Now, do what you really wanna do!
01-05-2010, 03:09 PM
#23
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Temecula CA.
Posts: 30
I took this puppy for a good long drive today, seems it is dis engaging after all, aside from not shifting from 1 to 2. when at cruising speed about 40-50 if I gas it all the way it just revs and revs no down shift at all, seems to do this what ever the gear or speed. I did finally get it into diagnostic mode, came back as revolution sensor circuit, and tps circuit, 1 and 3. Not sure if either one of these could cause slipping condition. Please advise and thank you all for you time and knowledge.
01-05-2010, 03:58 PM
#24
My speedometer is typically between 15-25 mph with the tach needle hitting upwards of 4-5k. If I am going downhill, I do get into the 30's AND 2nd gear, but the power loss is very troubling. I just rebuilt the engine, hoping to solve my woes as I thought it was a timing issue , and these symptoms were present before I began that project. I am not trying to hurt my rebuilt engine by stomping the gas to see what happens, b/c I have yet had the chance to formally break it in. Before the rebuild when I would be climbing a good hill, I would stomp it, which would cause the engine to rev up, then the car would gain momentum, and then shift up after riding in between 4.5-6K rpms for what felt like too long. The power loss was evident then, and as I mentioned, I thought it was timing. So, I have checked a few things to see what is apparent:
/snip/
, and these symptoms were present before I began that project. I am not trying to hurt my rebuilt engine by stomping the gas to see what happens, b/c I have yet had the chance to formally break it in. Before the rebuild when I would be climbing a good hill, I would stomp it, which would cause the engine to rev up, then the car would gain momentum, and then shift up after riding in between 4.5-6K rpms for what felt like too long. The power loss was evident then, and as I mentioned, I thought it was timing. So, I have checked a few things to see what is apparent:/snip/
27mph @ 4k
35mph @ 5k
39mph@ 5.5k
video link
Last edited by CapedCadaver; 01-05-2010 at 04:06 PM.
01-05-2010, 04:20 PM
#25
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Temecula CA.
Posts: 30
what is your speedometer reading when you it shifts into 2nd? if it's slipping, the rpm will be higher than normal for a given speed. granted on automatics there is no locked correlation between speed and RPM but 1st gear on a VG auto 3rd gen should redline at about 40mph
I took this puppy for a good long drive today, seems it is dis engaging after all, aside from not shifting from 1 to 2. when at cruising speed about 40-50 if I gas it all the way it just revs and revs no down shift at all, seems to do this what ever the gear or speed. I did finally get it into diagnostic mode, came back as revolution sensor circuit, and tps circuit, 1 and 3. Not sure if either one of these could cause slipping condition. Please advise and thank you all for you time and knowledge.
01-05-2010, 04:31 PM
#26
I took this puppy for a good long drive today, seems it is dis engaging after all, aside from not shifting from 1 to 2. when at cruising speed about 40-50 if I gas it all the way it just revs and revs no down shift at all, seems to do this what ever the gear or speed. I did finally get it into diagnostic mode, came back as revolution sensor circuit, and tps circuit, 1 and 3. Not sure if either one of these could cause slipping condition. Please advise and thank you all for you time and knowledge.
01-05-2010, 04:46 PM
#27
Unfortunately, I didn't monitor my RPM until after the first rebuild, which I lost 1st, 2nd, and Reverse.
Sadly, I'll go for the rebuild away to keep the car auto, or swap trans. But that's my experience as a Max noob.
01-05-2010, 05:11 PM
#28
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Temecula CA.
Posts: 30
Maybe you can tell me, slippage is probably not electrical issue? IE: revolution sensor could cause slipping? I had the OD off, once i put it on while driving and the thing completly disengaged and the rpm went up like i had a clutch and it was depressed.
01-05-2010, 05:30 PM
#29
but i don't really think your tranny is slipping, i think it's just not shifting at the right times. i think ve30max's is slipping based on his speed vs rpm in 1st gear
Last edited by CapedCadaver; 01-05-2010 at 05:39 PM.
01-05-2010, 06:13 PM
#30
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Jan 2010
Posts: 1
94 VG30E Crank Pulley Help
Sorry for posting in this thread, but I'm new and says can't post new threads or something. Really need help in figuring out how to remove crank pulley on 94 Max vg30e, SOHC. Doing timing belt. Nothing a problem until tried to pull off pulley. Bolt came right out with electric impact. There are no holes on face of pulley, and not comfortable with using a puller on outside edges. No inside edges to pull on either. Any ideas??? Thanks.
01-05-2010, 06:14 PM
#31
Sorry for posting in this thread, but I'm new and says can't post new threads or something. Really need help in figuring out how to remove crank pulley on 94 Max vg30e, SOHC. Doing timing belt. Nothing a problem until tried to pull off pulley. Bolt came right out with electric impact. There are no holes on face of pulley, and not comfortable with using a puller on outside edges. No inside edges to pull on either. Any ideas??? Thanks.
01-05-2010, 07:12 PM
#32
I started another thread more specific to my situation, in case it would be appropriate, and I apologize if I am creating clutter either here or there. I am going to post some videos soon to show the most recent driving experience with these symptoms, and I hope I provided enough examples to show the condition. Please check it out for those who may be of help or in interest. The other thread is here:
http://forums.maxima.org/3rd-generat...uto-trans.html
http://forums.maxima.org/3rd-generat...uto-trans.html
01-05-2010, 07:53 PM
#33
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Temecula CA.
Posts: 30
slippage is a mechanical problem. the clutch packs and brake bands can't grip properly anymore so things that are supposed to move stay still and things that are supposed to stay still move. i don't know if any electrical problem can cause the pressure to be so low as to allow things to slip.. it's usually a mechanical issue.
but i don't really think your tranny is slipping, i think it's just not shifting at the right times. i think ve30max's is slipping based on his speed vs rpm in 1st gear
but i don't really think your tranny is slipping, i think it's just not shifting at the right times. i think ve30max's is slipping based on his speed vs rpm in 1st gear
01-07-2010, 10:53 AM
#34
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Temecula CA.
Posts: 30
slippage is a mechanical problem. the clutch packs and brake bands can't grip properly anymore so things that are supposed to move stay still and things that are supposed to stay still move. i don't know if any electrical problem can cause the pressure to be so low as to allow things to slip.. it's usually a mechanical issue.
but i don't really think your tranny is slipping, i think it's just not shifting at the right times. i think ve30max's is slipping based on his speed vs rpm in 1st gear
but i don't really think your tranny is slipping, i think it's just not shifting at the right times. i think ve30max's is slipping based on his speed vs rpm in 1st gear
01-07-2010, 10:55 AM
#35
One more question if I may, do you think having it flushed mechanicaly, with a machine would give it some more life? I am selling the car with full disclosure of this problem. I think it is slipping because I can go at any speed in any gear and punch it, and it just revs up.
a video would help tho.. if you didn't make one already. similar to the one i posted further up the page.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
sctludwig
3rd Generation Maxima (1989-1994)
8
09-01-2022 01:32 PM