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Old 02-21-2010, 07:42 PM   #1
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1989 nissan maxima injector problem

I have a 1989 nissan maxima. It sat for 7 years, since ive had it i put on, new spark plugs, spark plug wires, K&N filter, Camshaft position sensor/Distributer, clutch, water pump, rear main seal, timing belt, tires, interior work, and exhaust. nothing major, just regular fix ups. When i got it after sitting, it appeared only the spark plug wires were chewed on by mice. Im having a very big problem with it tho. It starts fine, and the computer tells me code #55, meaning nothings wrong. When i drove it it missed and spit and had very little power, but sounded nice under 2000RPM. So i looked at it, I found out my injector was spraying in way to much fuel, i could smell it and that cylinder, plus 2 others were not firing. all 3 back cylinders run fine, but none of the front run at all. the far left front cylinder, i think #2, Was spraying way to much fuel, so i replaced the computer, later to find out it dident fix it, and plus my other 2 front cylinders, i think #s 4 and 6, werent getting enough fuel. i tested them, the far left front injector plug read like 13v, the other 2 read around 2.57v. all 3 back ones read between 11 and 12v. but the front 3 stay the same they dont change ever, to open and close. im getting spark, air, and fuel, i checked, throttle position sensor, grounds, emission control sensor, plugs, compression, intake, and they all turned out good. Ive seen on forums people have this same probllem, ive been trying to figure this out for a few months now, could you please help me or just tell me what i could do or need to do to fix this? Thank you very much, Robert Zeromski.
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Old 02-21-2010, 08:07 PM   #2
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Robert, you are starting to get annoying, asking the same thing (copying and pasting, even) everywhere, and then starting a thread with the exact same (copy and paste) question you started with.
more posts don't help your problem, nor do they help finding a solution.
anyone who has offered help thus far has attempted to help you, and their help is not shown in your post. all of this is bad form.

you have a wiring problem somewhere.
all injectors should always get 12v. the fact that you are getting less than 3 on at least two injectors suggests such.
go back and re-check all of them, before posting again.
also, you never did post the ohmage of the injectors, you just said they are all good.
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Old 02-21-2010, 08:24 PM   #3
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Please do post a specific resistance reading for each injector. That would be the most valuable piece of information you can provide for us to help you solve your problem.
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Old 02-22-2010, 03:55 PM   #4
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im sorry. one is, 14.5, 4 are 12.5, and one is 0. thats the resistance on the injectors. When i turn the key on the plugs to the injectors read, 4 of them read 0, and 2 read from .36 to 14V. but when i unplug my crank angle sensor or my grounds the voltage on the plugs jump around. should i take off the wiring harness and take the tape off and go over every wire? I cant get a wiring harness for it.
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Old 02-22-2010, 05:14 PM   #5
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I think you're giving the voltages, what they asked for is the resistance (ohms) for each of the injectors
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Old 02-22-2010, 06:19 PM   #6
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that is the resistance. the manual says they should be about 10 ohms. but i dont care about the resistance. im saying that the plugs, that plug into the injectors, are reading 12v before the car is even started and without the computer pluged in. as soon as you turn the key on all 3 have different voltages. but all 3 of the back cylinders are perfect. its just the front 3. and when i hook up or disconect the crank angle sensor or the 2 grounds on the intake manifold the voltage at the plugs changes. i took all the wiring out, checked it and put it back in. so its not the wiring. please, anyone that has any idea, let me know. im sorry im so annoying on here i just havent had a car in 3 months because of this.
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Old 02-22-2010, 07:03 PM   #7
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Ok, I got confused when you started listing the voltages. The resistance looks good on most of them, iirc the FSM says they should read up to 14 but I wouldn't worry about 14.5, I know I have an injector at 14.5 that runs just fine. If your multimeter checks continuity you should check the injector that is reading 0, it might be an open circuit, there's no way the resistance should be that low. As far as the problems with the voltages go, I wish I could help you but I have no idea what's going on.
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Old 02-22-2010, 07:25 PM   #8
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yes, I have told you at least once all of this:
all injectors always get voltage: you still have wiring to check, if they don't
injectors should ohm between 10 and 14; you have injectors that have taken a massive ****.

if you refuse to listen to what has been said again, and again, your car will not run.
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Old 02-22-2010, 07:28 PM   #9
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nobody knows. i checked all wiring. all good, but i have 2 crank angle sensors and with 1 three injectors have false readings and with the other one only one injector has a false reading. need new crank angle sensor????
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Old 02-22-2010, 07:38 PM   #10
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where are you checking resistance at?


here:
Click the image to open in full size.

see the two pins, there? put a lead on each of those, with your multimeter for resistance.
record the resistance for each injector.
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Old 02-22-2010, 08:03 PM   #11
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its listed above...
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Old 02-22-2010, 08:17 PM   #12
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now I am really, really confused.
really confused.
the resistance changes when you change a sensor? that is as impossible as it gets.

unless you are talking about voltage
where are you testing the voltage at? one pin should be positive, the other, ground. ground is only "on" when the injector should be getting signal, no other time. if you test for voltage, use the same ground for all six injectors (chassis, or battery).

better yet, check all six harnesses for continuity between battery (+) and injector harness.
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Old 02-22-2010, 08:21 PM   #13
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nonono lol. my voltage at the injectors changes when i change the crank position sensor or unplug it.
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Old 02-22-2010, 08:25 PM   #14
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nonono lol. my voltage at the injectors changes when i change the crank position sensor or unplug it.
look at this:
http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/maxima/1994/ec.pdf
page (EF & EC)10. the only thing between the injectors and the battery is a single fusible link. they should always get 12v (or battery voltage), regardless of what ever else is going wrong.

edit: put the wrong section in
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Old 02-22-2010, 08:29 PM   #15
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oh when i test voltage, all injectors have 12.8, but only the 3 are grounded, there for turning them on, when i switched the crank angle sensor only one was grounded, see what im saying? something is telling my computer to turn them on...
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Old 02-22-2010, 09:16 PM   #16
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Quote:
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oh when i test voltage, all injectors have 12.8, but only the 3 are grounded, there for turning them on, when i switched the crank angle sensor only one was grounded, see what im saying? something is telling my computer to turn them on...
Why don't you stop Fxxxing around and answer questions properly and on a one by one basis? ................. and only that - don't throw in your own interpretation and extra info that you think may be relevant.

1. Each of the injectors have 2 connector pins - on each of the injectors one of those pins must always stay at 12V with the injector harness plugged in and the ignition switched on (engine not running) - is that the case?

2. With the harness plugged into all the injectors, the ignition switched on (engine not running) what is the voltage measurement on each of the 6 injectors on the OTHER pin that is not held at 12V?

3. List the exact individual resistances here, and don't tell us you are not interested in resistances or don't care about them - list them individually anyway.



Don't give us your spiel about anything - answer the questions truthfully with no added rubbish background knowledge and you will get sorted promptly
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Old 02-23-2010, 05:42 AM   #17
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Why don't you stop Fxxxing around and answer questions properly and on a one by one basis? ................. and only that - don't throw in your own interpretation and extra info that you think may be relevant.

1. Each of the injectors have 2 connector pins - on each of the injectors one of those pins must always stay at 12V with the injector harness plugged in and the ignition switched on (engine not running) - is that the case?

2. With the harness plugged into all the injectors, the ignition switched on (engine not running) what is the voltage measurement on each of the 6 injectors on the OTHER pin that is not held at 12V?

3. List the exact individual resistances here, and don't tell us you are not interested in resistances or don't care about them - list them individually anyway.



Don't give us your spiel about anything - answer the questions truthfully with no added rubbish background knowledge and you will get sorted promptly

lol wow this thread really just annoyed me reading thru the replies lol...this guys either confused a bit cause im gettin a bit of broken english from his posts or hes really mixed up on what hes supposed to do even tho it is in plain ENGLISH and perfectly stated how to troubleshoot lol
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Old 02-23-2010, 12:59 PM   #18
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im trying to help solve my problems. your all just ****s. im done here
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Old 02-23-2010, 01:23 PM   #19
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I have counted three threads which Rob hs shamelessly hijacked. Try being more subtle bud, no one likes having their bubble penetrated.

I can't help you Rob, if you have seen this problem arise in discussion on forums, try targeting that specific thread and perhaps the forum altogether. I bet we will see a thread pop up with the exact same post shown above as soon as you get 15 posts, huh?
Rob, you were transparent from the onset, I don't think we can help you: it's up to you to help yourself dude.
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Old 02-23-2010, 01:37 PM   #20
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Hate to threadjack, but My 4th cyl is showing 0ohm. More than likely bad contacts or corrosion. I tried some sandpaper but couldn't get an ohm out of it. Is there a better way to clean the contacts? Or am I doing something wrong?
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Old 02-23-2010, 01:54 PM   #21
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Hate to threadjack, but My 4th cyl is showing 0ohm. More than likely bad contacts or corrosion. I tried some sandpaper but couldn't get an ohm out of it. Is there a better way to clean the contacts? Or am I doing something wrong?
it's not impossible for them to go dead. i have a rail that i ohmed the other day and one showed 0 ohms no matter what i did. and i had one do that to me in october 08 and i had another one do it in feb of 09... so it happens.
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Old 02-23-2010, 01:58 PM   #22
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lulz i should have read this tread earlier... i actually knew what OP was talking about. when you mess with the CAS when the key is set to 'on' it'll actually try to fire injectors cuz it thinks the engine is spinning. also on some cars (i haven't tested on the maxima) but it actually sends 12v down BOTH wires when it wants the injector shut and grounds one of them when it wants the injector open, rather than "no signal" or ground. That's if you measure from pin to ground. If you measure pin to pin, it's 0V of difference when the car is off, and something like ~0.9-1.3v at idle, rising as RPM and throttle position rise.

anyways i kinda agree with LVR's last post about "just answer THESE fuxoring questions and nothing else" so maybe he'll come back and actually do that.
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