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Pros and Cons of the Poly filled Mounts

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Old 07-15-2010, 11:11 PM
  #41  
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Also both control arms have bad bushings on them, would the energy suspension bushings or polybushings last longer than the cheap rubber ones?
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Old 07-16-2010, 10:10 AM
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Originally Posted by maxinout93
So you guys are saying that you have to just use a regular engine mount thats bad, and fill it with glue to the peices of the rubber that have seperated? My front engine mount is going bad, and I was going to grab one from autozone or somewhere, but if this poly method is cheaper, I would like to give it a try, although Ive never removed engine mounts before.
yeah autozone mounts are freaking garbage. last time i saw somebody buy autozone mounts they had to grind the crossmember just to get the stupid things to fit, they were such cheaply made 'copies' of stock mounts.

Originally Posted by maxinout93
Also both control arms have bad bushings on them, would the energy suspension bushings or polybushings last longer than the cheap rubber ones?
definitely.
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Old 07-16-2010, 11:33 AM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by CapedCadaver
yeah autozone mounts are freaking garbage. last time i saw somebody buy autozone mounts they had to grind the crossmember just to get the stupid things to fit, they were such cheaply made 'copies' of stock mounts.
I bought a $100 ish eBay "full mount kit" for my Civic when I pseudo-restored it a few years back. It had control arms, all engine mounts, ball joints, tie rod ends, etc.

Anyway, the engine mounts fit pretty cruddy and I'd bet they're from some of the same manufacturer(s) that Autozone uses. I had to do a bunch of grinding on one of the engine mounts, and the lower/front transmission mount I had to re-drill the mounting holes and even at that the mounts are pretty tweaked, etc., but they've lasted a few years now. Although, I've only put about 5k miles on it since I restored it.
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Old 07-31-2010, 11:02 AM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by James92SE
I bought a $100 ish eBay "full mount kit" for my Civic when I pseudo-restored it a few years back. It had control arms, all engine mounts, ball joints, tie rod ends, etc.

Anyway, the engine mounts fit pretty cruddy and I'd bet they're from some of the same manufacturer(s) that Autozone uses. I had to do a bunch of grinding on one of the engine mounts, and the lower/front transmission mount I had to re-drill the mounting holes and even at that the mounts are pretty tweaked, etc., but they've lasted a few years now. Although, I've only put about 5k miles on it since I restored it.

Wow thanks for the advice, I just bought a cheaply made strut mount from autozone, and returned it! I think Im going to try this poly filled mount idea or the window weld idea. Ill most likely go get an extra front engine mount and an extra control arm from the u-pull a part. The bad control arm is eating my tires away! The control arm is pretty new, So I dont want to scrap it if I dont have to, its just the bushings that are going bad. What would be the best method to remove them, im kinda limited on tools at the moment. Also Ive been hesitant to remove the front engine mount as I never did such a job. I do have a jack and Jack stands. Would jacking the car up and putting a jack stand under the oil pan relieve the weight off the front engine mount? Tryng to save myself some $$ here
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Old 09-20-2014, 09:59 AM
  #45  
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Sorry to bring up an old thread guys. I just did a manual swap on the 90 VG and all 4 motor mounts were replaced.

Less than 300 miles on the install and I start to hear squeaking noises from the front that get worse every time I drive the max. At first I thought it was the front passenger side lower control arm bushing but its not.

I had new tires put on yesterday and while the max was on the lift I had a good look under there and was shocked to find the rear motor mount had come apart. The front motor mount was collapsed and these had less than 300 miles on them.

When I got home I jacked the front passenger side up so the wheel would move freely and started the engine. I put the trans in 3rd gear and slowly let out on the clutch and the squeaking noise started. I went over to the passenger side of the engine bay and the noise was from the rear mount.

So, I am going to try filling 3 of the old motor mounts with polyurethane.

I have one of the old motor mounts cleaned up and all old rubber removed as suggested earlier in this thread but I'm confused as to what kind of poly to use. This thread is over 4 years old and I'm sure polyurethane technology has changed a bit since then.

Dexron 80 or 3M window weld or? Has anyone done this to their 3rd gen motor mounts recently? and for those who have already done this how have the mounts held up over the last 5 or 8 years. What's the best urethane on the market these days?
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Old 09-20-2014, 10:25 AM
  #46  
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Energy suspension makes it easy now.
It's called a DIYMMI kit.
Pretty affordable too.

You must have tried ebay mounts.
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Old 09-20-2014, 11:26 AM
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Originally Posted by Fakie J Farkerton
Energy suspension makes it easy now.
It's called a DIYMMI kit.
Pretty affordable too.

You must have tried ebay mounts.
Thanks, Yeah I did but never again. I should have known something wasn't right when I had to re drill the mounting holes in order to mount them to the engine cradle. Just a warning to remind those to stay away from motor mounts that are sold on eBay, they are nothing but junk. I'd still like to try filling my old motor mounts myself before I go spend money on a kit.
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Old 09-20-2014, 12:29 PM
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Well the kit is for filling and it's cake compared to a lot of write ups I've read, BUT I am biased because I went this route I'm sure.
http://www.energysuspensionparts.com...sp?prod=DIYMMI
Worth a click anyways.
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Old 09-20-2014, 12:55 PM
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Originally Posted by Fakie J Farkerton
Well the kit is for filling and it's cake compared to a lot of write ups I've read, BUT I am biased because I went this route I'm sure.
http://www.energysuspensionparts.com...sp?prod=DIYMMI


Worth a click anyways.
Ah cool, I can do this and thanks for that info. I want to do all 3 mounts with 80A so I'll need to figure out how much urethane its going to take to fill the mounts once I burn all the old rubber out of them. I have 1 mount cleaned up and ready to go.

How have the mounts held up that you urethaned ? I've read nothing but good reviews thus far.
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Old 09-20-2014, 01:02 PM
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Originally Posted by Grumpy560
Ah cool, I can do this and thanks for that info. I want to do all 3 mounts with 80A so I'll need to figure out how much urethane its going to take to fill the mounts once I burn all the old rubber out of them. I have 1 mount cleaned up and ready to go. How have the mounts held up that you urethaned ? I've read nothing but good reviews thus far.
They look like the day I poured them about 8 months of use.

You will need two cans if you're completely filling them.
Make sure you keep the center aligned.
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Old 09-20-2014, 01:10 PM
  #51  
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Originally Posted by Fakie J Farkerton
They look like the day I poured them about 8 months of use.

You will need two cans if you're completely filling them.
Make sure you keep the center aligned.
Yeah, I'm going to completely fill them with urethane. I might as well do all 4 of them and get it over with. I will make sure the centers are aligned. Thanks again for the info. I'm going to order a couple of kits right now.
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Old 09-20-2014, 04:00 PM
  #52  
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Keep in mind that on the engine mounts the center pins aren't totally centered. So you need to make a template or something prior to gutting the mounts.

I've always just used the urethane kit from McMaster-Carr. I've got some mounts that are 8-9 years old now I filled with their stuff and they aren't degraded or anything at all. I've always used the 80 shore 1 pound kit and usually have quit a bit left over. It's about $30 for the kit.

You can also just fill the existing mounts too with very good results. Unless you just particularly want to spend all the time and effort to totally hollow them out first.
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Old 09-20-2014, 04:10 PM
  #53  
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Thanks for the tip on the site James.
And yeah, I didn't want to hollow mine out because I didn't like the idea of losing the "original" center.
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Old 09-20-2014, 05:38 PM
  #54  
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Originally Posted by James92SE
Keep in mind that on the engine mounts the center pins aren't totally centered. So you need to make a template or something prior to gutting the mounts.

I've always just used the urethane kit from McMaster-Carr. I've got some mounts that are 8-9 years old now I filled with their stuff and they aren't degraded or anything at all. I've always used the 80 shore 1 pound kit and usually have quit a bit left over. It's about $30 for the kit.

You can also just fill the existing mounts too with very good results. Unless you just particularly want to spend all the time and effort to totally hollow them out first.
Thanks, yes I noticed the center bushing is off to the side. I've made a template for the first mount that's ready to be poured.

I am going to remove all of the old rubber from the mounts, its a little more work but I want it done right this time.

I have not ordered the kits yet. So you used 1 McMaster kit and were able to fill 4 mounts completely with some left over? Did you just fill in around the existing rubber or did you burn it all out and pour the entire mount?
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Old 09-22-2014, 06:38 AM
  #55  
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Originally Posted by Grumpy560
Thanks, yes I noticed the center bushing is off to the side. I've made a template for the first mount that's ready to be poured.

I am going to remove all of the old rubber from the mounts, its a little more work but I want it done right this time.

I have not ordered the kits yet. So you used 1 McMaster kit and were able to fill 4 mounts completely with some left over? Did you just fill in around the existing rubber or did you burn it all out and pour the entire mount?
Yes one McMaster kit. I just fill in around the existing rubber and doing that I always have quite a bit (I would say 65%?) of the kit go to waste. Probably at least 3-4" depth of the urethane hardens up in the tub completely unused. If you hollowed them all out entirely I can't say with certainty how much would be needed but I *suspect* one kit should be enough or very close to it. But of course it would suck to get in the middle of it and be juuuuust short of enough urethane.

Last edited by James92SE; 09-22-2014 at 06:43 AM.
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Old 09-22-2014, 07:13 AM
  #56  
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Originally Posted by James92SE
Yes one McMaster kit. I just fill in around the existing rubber and doing that I always have quite a bit (I would say 65%?) of the kit go to waste. Probably at least 3-4" depth of the urethane hardens up in the tub completely unused. If you hollowed them all out entirely I can't say with certainty how much would be needed but I *suspect* one kit should be enough or very close to it. But of course it would suck to get in the middle of it and be juuuuust short of enough urethane.
Got it. I ordered 2 complete 80A kits from energy suspension last night. That should be enough for all 4 mounts and the 2 front lower control arm bushings.
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Old 10-11-2014, 11:00 PM
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I finally got around to finishing up the motor mounts. I've cleaned all 4 mounts thoroughly and closed one side of each mount with duct tape. I put the mounts into separate boxes of sand and leveled them.

I mixed one kit of urethane and poured 2 mounts. I mixed the second urethane kit and poured the last 2 mounts.

They have been sitting on the work bench curing for over a day now. I'm not in any hurry and probably won't install any of them for at least 2 more days.
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Old 10-30-2014, 01:23 AM
  #58  
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I have a few mounts to fill on the cars I'm building. It's cost effective and it works.
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Old 11-11-2014, 11:49 PM
  #59  
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But has anyone found out what the part number for energy suspension bushings for our 3rd gens
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