which downpipe flange size?
02-19-2015, 02:53 AM
#1
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https://i.imgur.com/kJCYzIK.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/w9Qs8Mi.jpg
Making my own 3in downpipe. Is this the right one i need to order?
Check out this item I found on eBay: http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item...069911&alt=web
Or 3.25"
https://i.imgur.com/w9Qs8Mi.jpg
Making my own 3in downpipe. Is this the right one i need to order?
Check out this item I found on eBay: http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item...069911&alt=web
Or 3.25"
Last edited by TonyJr; 02-19-2015 at 04:17 AM.
02-19-2015, 04:45 AM
#2
Are you taking a picture of your turbine side there? Does your turbine housing have no threaded bolt holes for a DP flange? What are you planning to do, weld a v band to it?
I think a lot of turbing housings are cast iron. Welding to cast iron is pretty difficult
I think a lot of turbing housings are cast iron. Welding to cast iron is pretty difficult
02-19-2015, 05:30 AM
#3
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What's the easiest way to go by this?
Damn i just bought a t3 to t3 adapter flange with wastegate port. That is cast iron. Good thing im getting a shop to weld it.
https://i.imgur.com/iHYJvL3.png
Turbine side has no thread or bolt hole. My thinking was to weld a 3.25" v band flange to downpipe and then use the v band that came with the turbo to join both together. The exhaust sode of turbo looks like it connects with a v band. Im guessing this is the new style of joining downpipe took turbo. No bolts use only v band
Damn i just bought a t3 to t3 adapter flange with wastegate port. That is cast iron. Good thing im getting a shop to weld it.
https://i.imgur.com/iHYJvL3.png
Turbine side has no thread or bolt hole. My thinking was to weld a 3.25" v band flange to downpipe and then use the v band that came with the turbo to join both together. The exhaust sode of turbo looks like it connects with a v band. Im guessing this is the new style of joining downpipe took turbo. No bolts use only v band
Last edited by TonyJr; 02-19-2015 at 05:36 AM.
02-19-2015, 06:58 AM
#4
I don't know the best way to go about that. I've never messed with that style turbine housing or looked into it. My turbine housing came pre-drilled for a bolt-on flange as I assumed most do. I would say you could drill and tap your own threads but I don't even see spots to do that. Dan or Chris (Maxpwer) may know more about your style turbine housing
Why are you trying to go with a 3.25" V band though? Your downpipe and exhaust will be 3". If you have a 3.25" v band you'll then have to step down again to 3" for the rest. And your own measurement with the rulers shows 3" would be a better fit anyway.
The adapter flange you bought is irrelevant to this because it requires no welding. The flange you just bought is total bolt on and one side bolts to your inlet of the turbine housing. Then your reverse y-pipe bolts to the other side.
Just an FYI though, the flange you just bought is a textbook improper way to orient your wastegate. I told you specifically in one of your other threads about how you want a Y inlet to your wastegate.
This is the way you want to do it:
This is textbook poor way to do it B and textbook poorer way to do it C. The flange you just bought has your wastegate oriented like the left side of this picture:
Why are you trying to go with a 3.25" V band though? Your downpipe and exhaust will be 3". If you have a 3.25" v band you'll then have to step down again to 3" for the rest. And your own measurement with the rulers shows 3" would be a better fit anyway.
The adapter flange you bought is irrelevant to this because it requires no welding. The flange you just bought is total bolt on and one side bolts to your inlet of the turbine housing. Then your reverse y-pipe bolts to the other side.
Just an FYI though, the flange you just bought is a textbook improper way to orient your wastegate. I told you specifically in one of your other threads about how you want a Y inlet to your wastegate.
This is the way you want to do it:
This is textbook poor way to do it B and textbook poorer way to do it C. The flange you just bought has your wastegate oriented like the left side of this picture:
02-19-2015, 07:05 AM
#5
can you take a pic of the turbo housing...in a few angles. it LOOKS like the turbo has a v-band but it's hard to see since you're directly on top. is there no vband lip on the housing at all? that's going to be tricky.
as to the inlet...is your turbo is a T3 or a T4?
there's multiple styles of housing, 4 bolt, 5 bolt, 5 bolt with internal WG, v band, etc.
as to the inlet...is your turbo is a T3 or a T4?
there's multiple styles of housing, 4 bolt, 5 bolt, 5 bolt with internal WG, v band, etc.
02-19-2015, 07:24 AM
#6
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can you take a pic of the turbo housing...in a few angles. it LOOKS like the turbo has a v-band but it's hard to see since you're directly on top. is there no vband lip on the housing at all? that's going to be tricky.
as to the inlet...is your turbo is a T3 or a T4?
there's multiple styles of housing, 4 bolt, 5 bolt, 5 bolt with internal WG, v band, etc.
as to the inlet...is your turbo is a T3 or a T4?
there's multiple styles of housing, 4 bolt, 5 bolt, 5 bolt with internal WG, v band, etc.
02-19-2015, 07:25 AM
#7
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I don't know the best way to go about that. I've never messed with that style turbine housing or looked into it. My turbine housing came pre-drilled for a bolt-on flange as I assumed most do. I would say you could drill and tap your own threads but I don't even see spots to do that. Dan or Chris (Maxpwer) may know more about your style turbine housing
Why are you trying to go with a 3.25" V band though? Your downpipe and exhaust will be 3". If you have a 3.25" v band you'll then have to step down again to 3" for the rest. And your own measurement with the rulers shows 3" would be a better fit anyway.
The adapter flange you bought is irrelevant to this because it requires no welding. The flange you just bought is total bolt on and one side bolts to your inlet of the turbine housing. Then your reverse y-pipe bolts to the other side.
Just an FYI though, the flange you just bought is a textbook improper way to orient your wastegate. I told you specifically in one of your other threads about how you want a Y inlet to your wastegate.
This is the way you want to do it:
This is textbook poor way to do it B and textbook poorer way to do it C. The flange you just bought has your wastegate oriented like the left side of this picture:
Why are you trying to go with a 3.25" V band though? Your downpipe and exhaust will be 3". If you have a 3.25" v band you'll then have to step down again to 3" for the rest. And your own measurement with the rulers shows 3" would be a better fit anyway.
The adapter flange you bought is irrelevant to this because it requires no welding. The flange you just bought is total bolt on and one side bolts to your inlet of the turbine housing. Then your reverse y-pipe bolts to the other side.
Just an FYI though, the flange you just bought is a textbook improper way to orient your wastegate. I told you specifically in one of your other threads about how you want a Y inlet to your wastegate.
This is the way you want to do it:
This is textbook poor way to do it B and textbook poorer way to do it C. The flange you just bought has your wastegate oriented like the left side of this picture:
02-19-2015, 07:39 AM
#8
so it looks like you have a 3" v-band...your ruler is not directly right in the middle of the opening so maybe that's why you're getting a lower number.
is your DP going to be SS also? you want to stick with similar metals when you're building the exhaust piping.
is your DP going to be SS also? you want to stick with similar metals when you're building the exhaust piping.
02-19-2015, 07:55 AM
#11
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The turbo came with a 3.25" v band.
I order exhaust, dp,manifold piping thur mes website
02-19-2015, 07:58 AM
#12
Huh?
Your turbo DOES OR DOES NOT already have a V band flange on it?
If it DOES, then what are you talking about welding anything to it?
*edit* nevermind. Re-reading your stuff now makes more sense.
YES if your turbo DOES have a V band flange on it, then you will just need a 3.25" V band to weld to the downpipe side.
Your turbo DOES OR DOES NOT already have a V band flange on it?
If it DOES, then what are you talking about welding anything to it?
*edit* nevermind. Re-reading your stuff now makes more sense.
YES if your turbo DOES have a V band flange on it, then you will just need a 3.25" V band to weld to the downpipe side.
02-19-2015, 08:01 AM
#13
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Huh?
Your turbo DOES OR DOES NOT already have a V band flange on it?
If it DOES, then what are you talking about welding anything to it?
*edit* nevermind. Re-reading your stuff now makes more sense.
YES if your turbo DOES have a V band flange on it, then you will just need a 3.25" V band to weld to the downpipe side.
Your turbo DOES OR DOES NOT already have a V band flange on it?
If it DOES, then what are you talking about welding anything to it?
*edit* nevermind. Re-reading your stuff now makes more sense.
YES if your turbo DOES have a V band flange on it, then you will just need a 3.25" V band to weld to the downpipe side.
02-19-2015, 08:20 AM
#14
Did the V band flange you bought match the style of the one on the turbo? By "style" I mean specifically the "lip".
Brands don't like to mix and match, because many of the bands are machined with a different angle. So, although you'd assume you can clamp brand X flange to brand Y flange that is usually not the case. Some have different diameters, thicker vs thinner "lips", clamps that won't fit over both styles, etc. Some V bands even have a machined lip and recess built into the flat mating surfaces. These are REALLY nice to use because they line right up but they don't mix and match with other brands.
And it's extra annoying when you welded in a V band set, then can't remember where you got it from or who the maker was to buy a replacement clamp or whatever. Last time this happened to me I stocked up on a set of 5 or 6 matching sets of V band sets from the same maker just for any future changes I may/need want to make.
Brands don't like to mix and match, because many of the bands are machined with a different angle. So, although you'd assume you can clamp brand X flange to brand Y flange that is usually not the case. Some have different diameters, thicker vs thinner "lips", clamps that won't fit over both styles, etc. Some V bands even have a machined lip and recess built into the flat mating surfaces. These are REALLY nice to use because they line right up but they don't mix and match with other brands.
And it's extra annoying when you welded in a V band set, then can't remember where you got it from or who the maker was to buy a replacement clamp or whatever. Last time this happened to me I stocked up on a set of 5 or 6 matching sets of V band sets from the same maker just for any future changes I may/need want to make.
02-19-2015, 08:31 AM
#15
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Did the V band flange you bought match the style of the one on the turbo? By "style" I mean specifically the "lip".
Brands don't like to mix and match, because many of the bands are machined with a different angle. So, although you'd assume you can clamp brand X flange to brand Y flange that is usually not the case. Some have different diameters, thicker vs thinner "lips", clamps that won't fit over both styles, etc. Some V bands even have a machined lip and recess built into the flat mating surfaces. These are REALLY nice to use because they line right up but they don't mix and match with other brands.
And it's extra annoying when you welded in a V band set, then can't remember where you got it from or who the maker was to buy a replacement clamp or whatever. Last time this happened to me I stocked up on a set of 5 or 6 matching sets of V band sets from the same maker just for any future changes I may/need want to make.
Good to know. My order comes with 2 vband flange and a vband to clamp it so I'll be ok. But it's good to know that kind of info.
02-19-2015, 09:07 AM
#16
02-19-2015, 09:24 AM
#17
Think of your exhaust as a race track, you want to maintain the fastest average speed. (Or think highway on ramp vs 90) Straight away are great, but for a 90 degree turn, you need to slow way down, as opposed to a gentle curve where you might not even need to hit the brakes). Start your wastegate outlet as a gentle curve (shoot for 45 instead of 90 degrees) and merge it back in with the same angle, if you want to get rid of the open dump.
02-19-2015, 01:58 PM
#18
i got all my vbands from ATP turbo.
i got one set from CRM and they were horrible compared to ATP. the v-bands with the male/female lip part are really good at sealing stuff up.
are you 100% sure that's a 3.25 v-band? the sizing is the tube/pipe size..not the actual flange size.
i got one set from CRM and they were horrible compared to ATP. the v-bands with the male/female lip part are really good at sealing stuff up.
are you 100% sure that's a 3.25 v-band? the sizing is the tube/pipe size..not the actual flange size.
02-19-2015, 07:46 PM
#19
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i got all my vbands from ATP turbo.
i got one set from CRM and they were horrible compared to ATP. the v-bands with the male/female lip part are really good at sealing stuff up.
are you 100% sure that's a 3.25 v-band? the sizing is the tube/pipe size..not the actual flange size.
i got one set from CRM and they were horrible compared to ATP. the v-bands with the male/female lip part are really good at sealing stuff up.
are you 100% sure that's a 3.25 v-band? the sizing is the tube/pipe size..not the actual flange size.
02-19-2015, 07:50 PM
#20
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https://i.imgur.com/5jRvymY.png
I'm about to order this. And pay maybe $150 to finish the welds for dp, exhaust muffler, manifold.
What you think?
After this all i need is wideband, fuel pump, nistune. Almost a turbo ve.
I'm about to order this. And pay maybe $150 to finish the welds for dp, exhaust muffler, manifold.
What you think?
After this all i need is wideband, fuel pump, nistune. Almost a turbo ve.
02-19-2015, 08:04 PM
#21
They have great prices on the mandrel bends. You will need some 2.5" for your intercooler piping if my assumption is correct your intercooler is 2.5" inlet/outlet?
It's tough to gauge just how much piping you will need ahead of time. I like to overbuy just in case. If you are very very judicious with your cuts that may be enough. If you can afford it, perhaps get two sets of the bend packs just in case.
You also will want a y collector to merge your two 2" pipes for your turbo side of the y pipe.
It's tough to gauge just how much piping you will need ahead of time. I like to overbuy just in case. If you are very very judicious with your cuts that may be enough. If you can afford it, perhaps get two sets of the bend packs just in case.
You also will want a y collector to merge your two 2" pipes for your turbo side of the y pipe.
02-19-2015, 08:31 PM
#25
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02-19-2015, 08:47 PM
#26
Not sure a universal IC piping kit will work but it may be possible
And I'm glad you're swapping your BOV and MAF from how you originally had it drawn, seeing as you literally can't vent it after the MAF since that air has already been metered. So not really a choice there. BOV before MAF is non-negotiable
02-20-2015, 04:35 AM
#29
02-20-2015, 04:42 AM
#30
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If you talking about couplers for intercooler then yes i have lots. It came with the kit.
https://i.imgur.com/KjcdtGM.png
I got this kit
02-20-2015, 05:32 AM
#31
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02-20-2015, 06:23 AM
#33
If you talking about couplers for intercooler then yes i have lots. It came with the kit.
https://i.imgur.com/KjcdtGM.png
I got this kit
https://i.imgur.com/KjcdtGM.png
I got this kit
If you are intent on using all universal stuff like this for your intercooler you will almost certainly need to mount/position your turbo AFTER mounting your intercooler stuff.
I say that, because if your turbo is mounted in a position that requires any bends other than these simple 90 degree bends in your kit, your kit won't work and then you're stuck building piping anyway.
Does that make sense?
I did it the opposite way. I positioned my turbo as the very first thing I did. Then I built my entire setup around that position. I assume this is how most people do it.
No
02-20-2015, 06:41 AM
#34
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The drawing you posted of your setup looks like you are planning to lay your setup similar to mine. In that case, it looks like you might roughly be able to make all the bends you need with this kit depending on your turbo placement.
If you are intent on using all universal stuff like this for your intercooler you will almost certainly need to mount/position your turbo AFTER mounting your intercooler stuff.
I say that, because if your turbo is mounted in a position that requires any bends other than these simple 90 degree bends in your kit, your kit won't work and then you're stuck building piping anyway.
Does that make sense?
I did it the opposite way. I positioned my turbo as the very first thing I did. Then I built my entire setup around that position. I assume this is how most people do it.
No
02-20-2015, 09:26 AM
#37
Found this in 10 seconds...
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Flowmaster-Y200250-2-IN-to-2-5-FINAL-Universal-Scavenger-Series-Y-Collector-/121183199271?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item1c3714e027&vxp=mtr
This is the one I use
*edit* For future posterity, it's Flowmaster Part # Y200250
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Flowmaster-Y200250-2-IN-to-2-5-FINAL-Universal-Scavenger-Series-Y-Collector-/121183199271?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item1c3714e027&vxp=mtr
This is the one I use
*edit* For future posterity, it's Flowmaster Part # Y200250
02-20-2015, 09:34 AM
#38
Also, for future reference Tony - yes mild steel and stainless can be welded together no problem. My muffler is stainless welded straight to my mild steel.
Of course, you have none of the rust-proof benefits of the welds when you do this via MIG welding with normal C25 gas or whatever. But that's somewhat irrelevant anyway if the rest of the system isn't stainless.
Of course, you have none of the rust-proof benefits of the welds when you do this via MIG welding with normal C25 gas or whatever. But that's somewhat irrelevant anyway if the rest of the system isn't stainless.
02-20-2015, 10:33 AM
#39
02-20-2015, 11:29 AM
#40
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Found this in 10 seconds...
Video Link: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Flowmaster-Y200250-2-IN-to-2-5-FINAL-Universal-Scavenger-Series-Y-Collector-/121183199271?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories &hash=item1c3714e027&vxp=mtr
This is the one I use
*edit* For future posterity, it's Flowmaster Part # Y200250
Video Link: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Flowmaster-Y200250-2-IN-to-2-5-FINAL-Universal-Scavenger-Series-Y-Collector-/121183199271?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories &hash=item1c3714e027&vxp=mtr
This is the one I use
*edit* For future posterity, it's Flowmaster Part # Y200250