Cv boot axle
#1
Cv boot axle
Hi Guys...
I was told a axle cv boot is crack and need of replacement. How safe is it to drive for a while with one crack cv boot? Was told to change the boot ...axle has to come off. To take the axle off...is it an easy job?
So my first thought was to replace all the boots on the left and right axles...my friend the mechanic suggested that i might as well replaced the axles.
I called the dealer parts...and new or rebuilt axle are no longer in supply.
The gxe has 140k on speedo.
Thanks in advance...
I was told a axle cv boot is crack and need of replacement. How safe is it to drive for a while with one crack cv boot? Was told to change the boot ...axle has to come off. To take the axle off...is it an easy job?
So my first thought was to replace all the boots on the left and right axles...my friend the mechanic suggested that i might as well replaced the axles.
I called the dealer parts...and new or rebuilt axle are no longer in supply.
The gxe has 140k on speedo.
Thanks in advance...
Last edited by Starrider; 07-20-2015 at 12:59 PM.
#2
It's perfectly safe to drive with a torn or cracked boot. All it will do is sling CV axle grease out (if it's big enough), and/or let dirt into the joint to damage your CV axle.
If you fix it soon enough, you can get away with doing JUST the boot. If you drive on it for weeks or months, it'll likely get enough dirt and crap in the joint to require the actual joint to be rebuilt.
Just slap some lifetime warranty Autozone or PepBoys or O'Reilly's rebuilt axles on it and call it a day.
If you fix it soon enough, you can get away with doing JUST the boot. If you drive on it for weeks or months, it'll likely get enough dirt and crap in the joint to require the actual joint to be rebuilt.
Just slap some lifetime warranty Autozone or PepBoys or O'Reilly's rebuilt axles on it and call it a day.
#3
You can probably get several more years of use out of them or replace them whenever it's convenient. That is, if you're going to replace the axles. If you want to save a few bucks and just replace the boots, you would want to do it asap. Personally I would wait, you're not going to save much, you won't get a lifetime warranty, and it's not exactly a fun job, unless you like grease.
#5
axle isnt too bad to replace, only time it can suck is if the axle splines are seized into the hub and you need to use an air hammer to push the axle through it
unless its clicking like mad its alright to drive on for a while longer, just get a reman axle from an auto parts store then send your current one in as a core
unless its clicking like mad its alright to drive on for a while longer, just get a reman axle from an auto parts store then send your current one in as a core
#8
Just did my passenger side for the second time in 2 years first was failed cv after driving on torn boot for over a year cause I was lazy.
Second time was because the junkyard axle I rebooted failed.
Just ordered apwi axle from rock auto 30+45 min job but recommend alignment after.
Second time was because the junkyard axle I rebooted failed.
Just ordered apwi axle from rock auto 30+45 min job but recommend alignment after.
#9
I think I spent 3 hours trying to get my RH axle out of the carrier when I repaired my trans about 10 years ago. Please let me know how you replaced the axle in 30-45 minutes. Did you use a torch to get it to release? I'm dreading the day I have to do it again.
#10
After the first time of trying to figure out the proper angles/adapters/sockets to be able to loosen all three of those 10mm bolts on the carrier bearing it gets much easier the next time, assuming you remember which swivel socket and adapter setup to use. Even at that, 30-45 minutes does seem quick from start to finish though.
And if you have a non-rusty car the carrier bearing is cake in terms of actually removing it once those 10mm bolts are out. My first VE 5 speed that came from Pennsylvania, I swear I spent a full 8-10 hours fighting that carrier bearing the first time I replaced the axle on that stupid car. Never again will I own a car from up north!
And if you have a non-rusty car the carrier bearing is cake in terms of actually removing it once those 10mm bolts are out. My first VE 5 speed that came from Pennsylvania, I swear I spent a full 8-10 hours fighting that carrier bearing the first time I replaced the axle on that stupid car. Never again will I own a car from up north!
#11
Yeah mine was easy peasy I had a lift so that probably helped.
Just used 1/4 socket, stubby ratcheting wrench, and finger drivers for the carrier bearing.
My axle just came out real easy with a satisfying plop.
Just used 1/4 socket, stubby ratcheting wrench, and finger drivers for the carrier bearing.
My axle just came out real easy with a satisfying plop.
#12
After the first time of trying to figure out the proper angles/adapters/sockets to be able to loosen all three of those 10mm bolts on the carrier bearing it gets much easier the next time, assuming you remember which swivel socket and adapter setup to use. Even at that, 30-45 minutes does seem quick from start to finish though.
And if you have a non-rusty car the carrier bearing is cake in terms of actually removing it once those 10mm bolts are out. My first VE 5 speed that came from Pennsylvania, I swear I spent a full 8-10 hours fighting that carrier bearing the first time I replaced the axle on that stupid car. Never again will I own a car from up north!
And if you have a non-rusty car the carrier bearing is cake in terms of actually removing it once those 10mm bolts are out. My first VE 5 speed that came from Pennsylvania, I swear I spent a full 8-10 hours fighting that carrier bearing the first time I replaced the axle on that stupid car. Never again will I own a car from up north!
My car doesn't have any rust or corrosion on it. Bolts are perfect and it was hell getting the axle from the carrier. I ended up hammering it out after pulling the transmission off of the axle. I did grease up the mating surfaces pretty good when I put the new axle in. Hopefully it'll be a lot easier to pull next time.
So you removed the entire assembly along with the axle? I don't remember that being possible. Or maybe the carrier bolts were obstructed or inaccessible, I can't remember the specifics.
#13
There's three bolt for the carrier all a ***** to get to depending on your exhaust setup.
I removed them and the axle slid out of the engine splines and the carrier bearing housing.(where the three bolts came from)
Dropped my outer tie rod and lower strut bolts out to move hub assembly from being in the way.
I removed them and the axle slid out of the engine splines and the carrier bearing housing.(where the three bolts came from)
Dropped my outer tie rod and lower strut bolts out to move hub assembly from being in the way.
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