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1990 max idles with just a slight miss. Try to drive it?? Forget it...

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Old 02-07-2016, 02:01 PM
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1990 max idles with just a slight miss. Try to drive it?? Forget it...

I have had no real problems with this car over the last 7 years... Till last week.. On the freeway at around 65mph.. The motor went into a very bad stumble hesitation out of gas symptions. Like It went into Jake break mode bringing me to 25mph in a matter of seconds..
On the side of the freeway it idled fine and had throttle response above 3000rpm with quick bursts on the peddle.. In drive moving the car had to be light on the has till you hit 2000 ish rpm. Then back to huge hesition and bucking..

What I have checked and done so far that now has me Here for other minds to work on the problem that I have..
Since I could hear the Fuel pump solenoid in the trunk click and the fuel pump turn on. I first went to the fuel filter. Removing from the top of the filter the fuel line going to the fuel rail. My catch can received a blast of "air" and spray of fine mist of fluid followed by a stream of fuel and water. The filter was full of this milky liquid..
Thinking H2o in the tank. I bipassed the filter and put heat in the tank.. But the problem didn't go away.
Computor have codes 33 and 11. EGR system excessive flow detected and the CMP sensor A bank 1 circuit malfunction. I swapped the CMP from a parts car and cleaned the contact's.. Back to EGR system in a few..
Checked wiring contact's and the O2 sensor. Distributor cap and rotor and plug wires. Pulled plugs and regaped them. White and sooty from the lean condition.
The cat is not clogged.
The throttle position valve swapped and connections cleaned. Mass air flow sensor was clean and contact's cleaned. Air filter was clean. Fuel pressure regulator works. Fuel return line is clear. Injectors work. No air leaked around vacuum lines or around the injectors.
What am I missing. What would cause this EGR excessive flow detected.. How is that corrected??
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Old 02-07-2016, 05:29 PM
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When you mentioned the injectors are working did you ohm test them all with a multi meter to see if they're within spec. 10-14ohm?
and have you checked the plunger on the egr valve to make sure its moving freely and not sticking?
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Old 02-08-2016, 02:12 AM
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Thank you for such a quick response to my posted issue..
Yes to both questions. Injectors with-in specs. Also the EGR plunger works freely. Holds under vacuum and no carbon build up in EGR or the manifold it bolts to or with in the large tube which goes back into the exhaust...
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Old 02-08-2016, 06:05 AM
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Well when you say cmp if your refering to the cam position sensor? i'd take care of that first. It may even be a contributor to your egr code but the "cmp" would explain your misfire because it would throw off your timing. I'd try changing out the cmp with a known good one and reset the codes and see what comes back for starters if anything. Actually looking back at your original post about the cmp circuit code have you checked the circuit for a possible broken or corroded wire?

Last edited by ac max 92; 02-08-2016 at 06:16 AM.
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Old 02-08-2016, 06:46 AM
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Pull off your EGR valve and (if necessary) clean out the little port hole in the intake manifold that leads to the EGR. It's possible it's somewhat restricted with carbon build up. Also check the EGR vacuum hoses for clogs and/or even cracks/leaks.

Might as well even try cleaning out the EGR valve itself once you've got it off
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Old 02-08-2016, 08:32 AM
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Rick, To also further my last post keep in mind a bad timing belt or ignition module could also trigger a cmp code and may not be the sensor itself. I know i had a timing belt rubbing on the inside of the belt against the inner plate causing all kinds of misfires and ignition timing problems. I was glad i got it taken care of before it got too bad or worse broke causing bent valves etc. If you trace the circuit and find everything is good ie no broken wires i'd try looking into the ignition module, timing belt condition and that its not skipping a tooth or two. Im somewhat suprised you got the code. There are many times 3rd gens can have an issue and not throw any codes.

Last edited by ac max 92; 02-08-2016 at 08:36 AM.
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Old 02-08-2016, 08:34 AM
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AC Max 92. Thanks again for the continued effort...that's awesome. Yes the cmp was ment for cam positioning sensor. Parts car donated it's cmp and all connections to and from sensors were cleaned and inspected..after the doner car gave me other sensors to try codes were checked again..

James92SE nice maxima bro.
The EGR machanicly is fine. Vacuum draws the plunger freely and holds. Their is no carbon build-up at either locations. Vacuum line for EGR is good as well...
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Old 02-08-2016, 09:31 AM
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Originally Posted by Rick Kohl
The EGR machanicly is fine. Vacuum draws the plunger freely and holds. Their is no carbon build-up at either locations. Vacuum line for EGR is good as well...
Right I understand it moves mechanically fine - but I'm talking about potential carbon build-up in the "port" between the EGR and the intake manifold. You cannot check for that until or unless you remove the EGR itself and inspect.
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Old 02-08-2016, 10:07 AM
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James has a good point for the egr. What im curious about is that in your original post the code says excessive flow and not restrictive flow? Which kind of makes me wonder if its got anything to do with the timing being off. Personally unless i was due for emissions right away i'd be more concerned with the cmp code. Maybe there is something else like the ignition module or timing belt causing it. Have you tried swapping the ignition module over from your parts car or checking the timing belt or maf etc. I could be way off but sounds to me like its something timing related. Which the cmp would also cause injector timing to be off causing bucking or hesitation. Is there any tell tale signs from the exaust giving an inication of any raw or unburnt fuel?

Last edited by ac max 92; 02-08-2016 at 10:09 AM.
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Old 02-08-2016, 11:24 AM
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I think it's unlikely that the EGR stuff is clogged anyway, but it takes like 5 minutes to remove/inspect it so it's worth a shot. Also, the 'excessive flow' EGR code in other cars is very commonly a carbon clogged EGR valve. I've never heard of that code on a 3rd gen, but can't hurt to rule out excessive carbon deposits.
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Old 02-08-2016, 11:30 PM
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Thanks again for possible contributors to my car's condition.
Updated info I recieve on the car,you recieve. My wife mentioned last night that the day my car started all this. She slid into a curb trying to make an enterance to a store she nearly passed up going to fast. This was 15 minutes before she picked me up and I drove onto the freeway and all this started...... She hit the curb about 25mph!!!! Gouging the slid plate and golf ball size dent into the corner of the oil pan.... Nothing was crushed or pinched from that which I can see. But now leaves me to believe something knocked loose may be a factor..

The EGR valve was removed and inspected as well as the manifold and vacuum hose, before I stated it was good.. It condition looks like near new and not the number of years I have had it.
The Mass Airflow Sensor was swaped from doner.
Once in a while gas can be smelt at the rest of the car.
The spark plugs had a light gray coating on them but gap was yet correct.
The Cam Shaft Positioning sensor under the distributor rotor had a dirty disc which was cleaned as well as the reader with air.
The timing belt was replaced 2 years back and haven't had a problem with really anything and this engine.. Fires up on the first touch of the key. I'll check the ignition mod tomorrow.
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Old 02-09-2016, 05:11 AM
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The ignition module is right near the distributor. Not sure about the minor hit to the curb. If all the wiring looks good though depending on the size of the dent on the pan could cause damage to the oil filler tube/syphon thats in there. Is the fuel smell coming from the exhaust or up front? From the exhaust the timing is probably off or a leaky injector and up front still possible a leaky injector whether an o ring or pintle cap gone bad or the injector not seated properly in the rail. It can be fairly common for the 2 small rubber fuel lines on either side of the rails to leak aswell. You mentioned you cleaned the cmp disk under the distributor with air but have you tried just swapping the distributor with the cmp over from your parts car? Though i believe you'd probably have to set the timing again. Also just curious but have you taken a timing light to just check the timing?
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Old 02-09-2016, 10:46 AM
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sooo you said there's possible water in the gas tank. have you taken the pump cover off to check? perhaps the fuel pump is on it's way out or even the fuel pump mesh/sock is clogged. at idle it's not pumping much but once you load the engine and it needs to pump more gas it'll die out...maybe?
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Old 02-09-2016, 02:35 PM
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Thank you for the continued support and solid ideas. All given by your experance. Most valued by everyone..
Tomorrow I'll post an update. I will have swaped the distributor and timed it. Also swapped the ignition modulator as suggested and the fuel pump will have eyes on to first see if it's pickup sock is there and or clogged and H2o serverity.

Thanks again gentlemen
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Old 02-09-2016, 04:19 PM
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Originally Posted by Rick Kohl
Thank you for the continued support and solid ideas. All given by your experance. Most valued by everyone..
Tomorrow I'll post an update. I will have swaped the distributor and timed it. Also swapped the ignition modulator as suggested and the fuel pump will have eyes on to first see if it's pickup sock is there and or clogged and H2o serverity.

Thanks again gentlemen

keep in mind...if your idle is ok and steady then it's not your distributor nor the pick up. if your timing is off...it's only off by certain amount..and yes that also affects your idle. it's not like domestic cars where you can spin the dist around...there's an oval groove on the vg motor and you can only push/pull/turn it so much.

unbolt the back seat and pull it out and open the gas tank. check to see if you have any contamination. also check your fuel pressure at idle and check it when you rev the motor if you have a fuel pressure gauge.
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Old 02-16-2016, 11:34 PM
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Thank you all, For your response to my post.

DanNy. ac max 92. James92SE;
Thank you. Your talent/hobbie/know How has all been a great crash coarse for myself. At 59 years old, I am pleased to be reminded I am constantly in school.

I found another doner car that had new parts on it.. New throttle positing and New O2 sensor. Swapped those for the ones I used from the first doner car.. A did as suggested by pulling the cover to the pump. At first look the screen / sock on the pump pickup tube looked not to bad as I worked it out of the fuel tank...... That changed as it's underside came into view... Black like ground fine pepper...
Looked to like the Heat got rid of the water problem.

The car runs great. Fires right up. Idls Smooth. Wrap of the throttle and right back to a smooth idel.
Put it in drive. Placed my performance/comfort switch down by the ashtray on P. Walked the peddle to the floor. Trans shifted at red line barking the tires into second. Same for second to third with a bark and near Red line to fourth gear..
When I first bought the car ,had to go to the dealer parts to find out about the switch.. To his suprise he found it in the parts book. Said it was a performance option at the dealership??
Thanks again guys..
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Old 02-17-2016, 03:42 AM
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FYI, be gentle with that tranny, they don't like to be "abused".
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