khakuda

1994 GXE, 115,000 miles automatic. Had 4 tires changed at Costco and 4 days later, from a cold start the car felt like the drive train or transmission disgengaged for a few moments and the car shook a bit then engaged again. Happened a couple times now, usually after going a few blocks or right after starting to go out of park. Once warmed up, everything has been fine. Going to the mechanic next week. Going to be pissed if I just dropped $500 on new tires only to have the tranny die 4 days later. No tranny issues to date. Any ideas?

arsonist63086

Yes it's a transmission issue. But more like a solenoid pack problem. My car does that after cold starts. Once the car reaches operating temp it will shift hard into 3 be fine for the whole day till next cold start. What I do in the cold starts is deactivate over drive so the "neutral engagement" happen till it warms up then I turn it back on. Didn't use to happen to me as often till I had them replace the solenoid pack (different story on that. Ended up being a bad TCU ). I'm guessing the TCU isn't getting good readings off of the transmission temp sensor that's why it doesn't activate the right solenoids.

khakuda

Thank you arsonist. I actually have new info. It only happens when I turn left. I went to an open parking lot and turned the wheel hard right and did circles and it was quiet and fine. However turning hard left circles there is a noise and the car bucks, sputters and stalls unless I stop the turn before stall.

I'm thinking the front passenger drive is screwed somewhere. Maybe the CV axle? In balancing the tire or going on the lift, something maybe have busted or misaligned? Will post after the mechanic has a look on the lift.

arsonist63086

Oh ok . Hopefully just a CV axle and not the diff.

khakuda

And the verdict from the lift is in: 2 motormounts shot as a start. Will replace and see if it resolves the issue. I guess this is what I get for spending $30 each a few years back for generics instead of the $150+ each that Nissan wanted.

arsonist63086

Rock auto has them cheap . I ordered all mine from them Anchor brand (all 4 about 25 or less each). did a cross reference on the parts number and they are the same ones that AutoZone sales just reboxed for double the price to justify the lifetime warranty. And a hint so they can last longer is inject the cavity in the mounts with window calking (the stuff they use to duck windows on) it will stiffen them up a bit... I doubt that will solve the issue tho as the mounts have nothing to do with the what you are experiencing.

khakuda

You are right, it won't fix my issues. Told the mechanic to hold on mounts until we find real problem. I googled maxima stall and that is my issue. Car is not safe to drive now. Stalls at stops, stutters, check engine comes on, goes off, etc.

Could be anything from wires to relays, fuel pump, air sensor, O2 sensor, etc. I have to figure out how much I want to spend and try a few things, keeping in mind that I bought the car 23 years ago next month. Best car I ever owned, but it won't last forever. The good news is that whatever is failing is failing fast and may be easier to find once it breaks than the intermittent issue I was dealing with.

Thanks for your wise input and thanks for the recommendation on mounts.

Tiniform

Does it stall if you neutral it when you stop? If does,my on can rule out the tranny. Try changing the coolant temp sensor and see what happens. Get the temp sensor from Nissan - it is an inexpensive item.

khakuda

Thank you.

No, it seems to stall when acclelerating after a stop. It sometimes sputters on the highway. Brought to mechanic who told me that since the check engine light goes on and then shuts off to bring it to a Nissan dealer and see if there is a code in memory. I've tried 2 dealers and no one has the code reader for a 1994 anymore. While it is kind of interesting to try and solve the puzzle, it's a bit of a pain in the butt for me because this is my daily driver. I enjoy the challenge but this is getting a little bit dangerous because of the random sputtering.

I may try calling the local infinity dealer and some local garage is to see if anyone has a code reader that will work on this car. It seems the Nissan dealers got rid of them to save space.

ac max 92

iTrader: (13)

Sounds like the mechanic at the nissan dealership you dealt with wasn't too knowledgeable with older nissan's like 3rd gens otherwise he'd have known how to read the flash codes. Find the FSM and learn how to check the flash codes from the ecu. If you think its o2 sensor related which it could just as well be if it bucks when stalling try driving it with the o2 disconnected. It won't harm anything but atleast you can rule it out. Could also be the ignitior behind the distributor or a number of things but i believe these older ecu's only throw a CEL/code due to a short or open circuit but i'd probably start by running the diagnostic mode on the ecu the next time you see the CEL come on if its going on and off.

khakuda

WOW! That rocks. I have the FSM on my PC and just checked page EC-42 and there are the instructions. I'll read it a few times before spending some time this weekend working on it. Had no idea there was an onboard diagnostics under the dash.


Thanks very much! Because of you, the car may actually have a chance to make it to its 23rd birthday next month.

DanNY

iTrader: (14)

unless you have a REALLY old guy still spinning wrenches at the dealership the guys won't know.

the younger guys are all OBDII trained where you plug in a computer and boom all the codes come up. OBDI you'll have to do a little leg work. remember some of these guys were still in diapers when the 3rd gens were made.

morale of the story....the dealership can't help you when it comes to figuring out your car. they don't even stock parts for it.

ac max 92

iTrader: (13)

Im sure it will reach it's 23rd. The diagnotic side of the ecu is on the passenger side behind the the kick panel to the right of the shifter. Hopefully you'll get a code to narrow down your problem. If not maybe try disconnecting the o2 aswell and drive it to see if you get any stalling issues. If its not popping any fuses when its stalling then its not a short so probably something that's causing an open circuit thats causing your CEL to come on.

khakuda

Well, thank you again. I read the code and it was code 12, the Mass Air Flow sensor. So, now to do more research/troubleshooting. Is it the sensor itself, the harness or the connector.

It was funny, but before I read the code myself I had the idea of calling the Infinity dealer and he actually had an OBDI Nissan Consult reader, but didn't have the software to do the maxima. He told me to go across the street to the classic car repair shop and the guy said he didn't have one, looks at my car and says, "94 GXE, same engine as the Pathfinder. Start with the airflow sensor, they go bad all the time. Hit it with carb cleaner, solves the problem often. If not, replace and if that doesn't work try the knock sensor." So much knowledge out there. The onboard computer to which you enlightened me agreed that it was the MAF sensor. I tapped on the MAF sensor and the car started sputtering immediately and the check engine came on. Tightened up the connector fittings and cleaned with electrical contact spray and no better. Going to swap out the MAF sensor when I get it later this week and see if that does it.

ac max 92

iTrader: (13)

Glad you found the issue. I was going to mention try unplugging it and and clean the contacts and plug it back in but you mentioned you've already done that. I have a spare if your stuck but im in Canada and would need to get you a shipping quote but it's an option anyway if your stuck. Also by the way i don't think i'd go cleaning the maf with carb cleaner rather use electrical contact cleaner. There is a wire inside between the 2 screens below the sensor that can get a little dirty but the contacts/pins on the harness and maf can tend to get corroded and get a little green.

khakuda

Thanks again and thanks for the nice offer of the part. I actually got a new one from Amazon today. It was a Delphi part but, unlike the original Japanese made OEM part, hailed from China (I'm shocked I tell you, shocked!). I figured Delphi would be better than a no-name, but in the end maybe I just lined GMs former part company with extra profit. Installed it in no time and the car runs perfectly now. In fact, it seems to have more power than before the sensor went bad.

After doing some research online, it appears the guy I spoke with locally knew his stuff. The sensors have 3 solder points inside, any one of which can become desoldered and make an intermittent connection. Pathfinders seemed to be especially plagued. I'm going to take the old one apart if I can...apparently it can be done with a heat gun and see if the desoldering happened. Assuming I don't destroy it in the process, I guess I will solder them back together and keep as a spare should China fail me like most of my other China stuff has failed me (I should be kinder, at least they make the part and give me the option).

I was glad it was the problem because it is my only car and being without it made life difficult the past few weeks. 23 years is a good run and well longer than I ever imagined and I figured it was done. But, it has been such a crazy good car. That was the first unsafe drive-ability issue I've had. Everything else was annoyance...window regulators, power antenna, stereos, etc. Even the 6 fuel injectors I had to replace were more annoying than unsafe like this MAF sensor with its stalling into oncoming traffic nonsense. At least I lived.

I stopped at the Honda dealer and priced a base level 2017 Accord with CVT. I used the Costco discount and there was an additional $1,000 off because they were trying to make month end numbers. I have to say that it is a lot of car for under $21,000. Looking in the engine compartment and seeing new rubber everywhere was amazing.

Having kept a car this long, it is clear that anything rubber is shot. Seals go and the car leaks oil, fuel injector hose goes and you smell gasoline, door gaskets go and the car gets noisy inside, cv boots get ripped, etc. If I could replace all the rubber in this thing, I'm convinced it could go another 20 years.


The only issue I have at the moment is the motor oil leak at the front passenger side which has been going on the past 3 years. Seems to be getting worse, but so far I haven't had to add any oil between the 6 month oil changes. I paid the shop $125 to check it out a few years back and they regasketed some stuff, but the issue seems to require removing the engine or tranny and would probably cost more than the car is worth.

Prophecy99

iTrader: (1)

Very sad but realistic

don't be too mad on tires you can sell them.....its just a bad coincidence if the tranny was done
Wow MAF's are really something. glad u figured it out w some words of advice and people w knowledge helping out.

ac max 92

iTrader: (13)

Keep her going if it doesn't break the bank lol. If the cv axle hasn't started clicking yet when you turn the corners you can get a boot kit and grease although you can get a complete axle for $100 or less and as for your oil leak im sure its not a crazy fix could even be a cam or crank seal. As for your rubber vacume hoses check out a company called vibrant. I got a complete kit of silicone vacume lines at a reasonable price and just cut to length and replace the vacume lines one at a time so you remember where they all go. Im sure there's other companies too that carry aftermarket vacume line kits and you can easily get rubber fuel line hoses by the foot at almost any parts store for the 2 little pieces on either side of your fuel rail if thats where the leak is. All those things you describe are doable and should't be an arm or a leg. It sounds like you still like your 3rd gen. Are you the original owner? Im not the original owner of mine but i've found most of what i've done to mine has been more of a want than a need so with what i've put into it i sometimes feel im at the point of no return with it now so it's a keeper and i do really like the car. Good to hear you got yours running well with the maf replacement. I've soldered my clock to get the display working again but not sure that i'd try taking a sealed unit apart like a maf and solder it rather than replace it but then again i don't consider my soldering skills to be all that great either lol.

khakuda

Good advice. Yes, original owner. I bought it when I was 28 and turned 50 this year. How crazy is that? The car is like a perpetual motion machine. My own body is probably going to decline faster. The mechanic who helps me work on it says that he sees early 90s Hondas, Toyotas and Nissans all the time with 300,000 miles and that they no longer build them as well. Plus, the engine compartments are so packed on the new cars, he hates working on them. He is such an honest and reasonable guy, I partly want to keep the car to support him since honest guys are hard to find. I figure if I put in $500 - $1000 a year on maintenance and repairs, it is still far cheaper than depreciation, property taxes and higher insurance costs on a new car.

I've done the CV half axle and the 2 pieces of fuel hose on the fuel rail did not get replaced when the injectors were done, which is a shame because the entire plenum has to come off to replace those and that is too much work. One was leaking fuel a bit when it dropped below 32 degrees, but I was able to get in there and tighten the clamp. So far, so good. I could kill Nissan for breaking up the fuel rail with rubber, but maybe they had a reason beyond being annoying.

I'll print this email to save regarding the silicone hoses, thank you. As for the oil leak, it is hard to see where it is coming from. He had it on the lift and regasketed what he could without pulling the engine and tranny out, so I guess I'll just drive it until it becomes a more serious leak.

ac max 92

iTrader: (13)

Unless its a rear main seal issue he shouldn't have to drop the tranny (which can be done without removing the engine). The cam and crank seals you could probably get done on your next timing belt change if you still have the car by then. If he washes off the oil and crud it may be a little easier to locate the leak. Another thing to look at is the valve cover gaskets. The upper intake (plenum) really isn't too bad to remove if you did find you had to do the the rubber lines and the valve cover gaskets could be done aswell at that point. Im no mechanic but was able to figure out removing the plenum etc. on my own when doing injectors in the past. That's awsome to hear that your the original owner. You must have cared for it well.

khakuda

Do you remember which vibrant vacuum hose kit you purchased? I can't figure out the size of those hoses and there seem to be different sizes. The hoses certainly look like they've seen better days, but I am hesitant to do anything until I have an issue. That said, I wouldn't mind getting the parts. Thanks again for all the great advice.

ac max 92

iTrader: (13)

The kit was just a simple variety of common sizes diameter wise but as for the length you just cut to size yourself. It wasn't a vehicle specific kit. I would suggest removing your old ones one at a time and put them up against a length of hose from the kit and just cut to length and replace. I only suggest that so you remember which hose goes back where and your not pulling them all then pulling your hair out trying to remember what goes where. If you choose you could also just get some standard rubber vacume hose from a parts store if its more feesible. The silicone just lasts longer and doesn't dry rot and crack and withstands oil and chemicals better etc. but it depends on how long you really want or intend to keep the car for.

khakuda

Thank you. I'm currently running down another issue. When I first put the new tires on, I initially heard some rattling, but then had to knock down the MAF sensor issue which occurred simultaneously. Well, the rattling and the MAF issue were 2 different things and I still have the rattle. The mechanic changed the 2 motor mounts which had failed and the sway/stabilizer bar links. Still, the rattle continues. So, as I'm driving 2 nights ago, going downhill under no acceleration, I see the RPMs fall and surge (not while changing gears) in a weird erratic way. Since the MAF is new and the plugs are new NGK's, I'm thinking the clunking may be drivetrain and look under the car. Nothing. Then, I look by the transmission dipstick, below the battery and to my horror one of transmission mount bolts is almost completely out. I'm thinking the knocking may have been the tranny banging around. After the motor mounts went and the engine tilted down to the passenger side, the transmission mount was forced upwards. Car is in the shop today to rebolt and check mount to see if I need to replace.

I have nothing but bad things to say about aftermarket mounts. They lasted 2 years and who knows what damage I have done to the front drivetrain.

Will let you know if that solves the rattling issue. My sound is exactly this genius guys who mounted a camera below the car (he never resolved it, but I'm going to try until I can't take anymore):

ac max 92

iTrader: (13)

Well hopefully the mount will resolve your issue. You may also want to check any heat sheilds above the exhaust or around the manifolds too.

khakuda

Ugh. The bolt wasn't loose! Worse, it was dislodged/bent and stuck in the bracket halfway out of the transmission. They tried to take it out for 30 minutes, then charged me nothing and said that if they try to harder to take it out and it breaks, it could sheer off in the tranny's threaded hole where they can't drill it out because it could break off into the tranny. They said there was nothing they could do. I think I'm cooked.


Well, at 23 years and 2 months, no one can complain. I can still drive it for now, but won't feel confident taking it far away from town. Just annoyed I dropped $1200 into it the past 2 months, but I guess that is the way it goes. Repairs/maintenance paid off for years and at the end, you can spend whatever you want, but it is an uphill battle like trying to keep alive a 90 year old parent.


They banged around the exhaust/heat shield and wheel wells, but still the rattle. I think the rattle is now best solved by turning the radio up.


I sure learned a lot about car repair from this car. Prior to this, I had changed oil and a battery, added fluids and pumped gas. Never thought I would feel confident repairing window regulators, power antenna motors and masts, fuel lines, brake pads and rotors, installing stereos and didn't know what a mass airflow sensor was, much less dream of diagnosing a problem (with your help) and swapping one out. The only thing that really was annoying was the 9 or so injectors the car ate and making the mistake of replacing them one at a time the first 3 times where they put in remanufactured ones before realizing they should all be swapped with new.


Bummer is the engine now purrs silently with only 115,000 miles and the transmission is smooth, even with the bolt issue. Too bad Nissan doesn't build them like this anymore.


To your point, if they used silicon instead of rubber for hoses, gaskets, engine mounts...the car would probably last another 20 years.

ac max 92

iTrader: (13)

Well if the bolt is the most major issue then i'd consider taking it to a shop that can better help you. Im sure there's someone out there that can get the bolt out and replace the mount but if that same shop installed it for you and warranties there parts and labour then they should be helping you out a little further even if it means sending it to a tranny shop or someone that can fix the issue and im sure the rattle can't be impossible to locate with a stethiscope or something.

khakuda

Rattle was from rotted control arm bushings. Replaced control arm and struts. It was the passenger side lower control arm and I have a feeling that its demise was hastened by the slow oil leak the car has, as the oil drops right onto the spot where the bushing is.

Since the oil leak would be too expensive to get to and fix, I wrapped the new bushing part of the new lower control arm with heavy duty tin foil which seems to be keeping it dry. Didn't need to tape it or anything, just wrapped it over the sides, top and bottom and molded it to shape.