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Old 01-06-2004, 09:02 AM   #1
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what does CYLINDER 5 MISFIRE CODE MEAN? ECU CODE 64?

I was driving earlier today when out of no where my check engine light started blinking and then my car began to run sluggish , like it was about to stall, i pulled the ECU code # 64

says its cylinder 5 misfire

how do i diagnose this problem?
Can someone explain to me what this means?

is it a bad spark plug?

thank you for any help
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Old 01-06-2004, 09:13 AM   #2
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Its most likely a bad coil pack. Move the coil pack from cylinder 5 to a different one (like 3)...and see if you get a different code (like a cly. 3 misfire).
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Old 01-06-2004, 10:44 AM   #3
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Coil pack or injector
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Old 01-06-2004, 10:48 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ejj
Its most likely a bad coil pack. Move the coil pack from cylinder 5 to a different one (like 3)...and see if you get a different code (like a cly. 3 misfire).
Happened to me a few weeks a go, did this, and yup, coil pack. . .runs on 5 cyl, that's why it felt sluggish, also reffered to as "missing",
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Old 01-06-2004, 02:07 PM   #5
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0603 0604 0605 0606 0607 0608
If one cylinder is misfiring the problem is spark or fuel. A misfire due to a spark problem usually results in a Service Engine Soon light and one of these Diagnostic Trouble Codes:
0608 - Cylinder 1 misfire
0607 - Cylinder 2 misfire
0606 - Cylinder 3 misfire
0605 - Cylinder 4 misfire
0604 - Cylinder 5 misfire
0603 - Cylinder 6 misfire

You don't have any of these codes, and the engine smooths out at engine speeds greater than 1000 rpm, so let's assume the problem is with fuel delivery.

I believe one of your fuel injectors is not performing properly. There are two tests the home mechanic can make, the sound test and the resistance test.

Sound test...
This test is performed with the engine idling. Use a mechanic's
stethoscope or a length of rubber vacuum hose, and listen to each injector.
All injectors should sound alike. If you find one which makes a different
sound (or no sound at all) you have found a problem.

Resistance test...
This test is performed with the engine off. Use an ohmmeter to measure the
resistance of each injector. This does not require removing the injectors.
I don't know the correct resistance value for the injectors on your model,
but they are typically a low number such as 16 ohms. The important thing
is they should all be equal. If you find one injector with substantially
higher resistance than the others, it is bad. If you find one with zero
ohms (short circuit) that is truly unfortunate, because the injector is bad
and it may also have damaged the Engine Control Module (the computer)
because of excessive current drain.

Measuring the resistance of the front bank of cylinders is easy because the
injectors are in plain view. Disconnect the injector electrical connector
for cylinder #2, measure the resistance, reconnect the connector. Repeat
for the cylinders #4 and #6.

Measuring the resistance of the rear bank of cylinders is almost as easy,
but it is difficult to reach the injectors. The resistance may be measured
at a conveniently located electrical connector. Notice the largest,
thickest electrical harness at the top of the engine. This is the Engine
Control Harness and it is shaped like a U, with the open top of the U at the
driver's side of the car. The U has two corners. Look at the corner
nearest the passenger seat. Just inside that corner you will find an 8-pin
electrical connector. This is connector F131. Disconnect this
connector. Now look at the male part, the connector half with the pins
exposed. They are arranged in two rows of four pins.
The pins are numbered 1 - 4 (top row) and 5 - 8 (bottom row).
Measure the resistance of:
- injector #1 between pins 1 and 2.
- injector #3 between pins 1 and 6.
- injector #5 between pins 1 and 5.
Be sure to measure the PINS, not the female receptacles.

The dealer's shop is equipped with high-tech diagnostic instruments. These are wonderful devices but they are expensive and the dealer has to recover his cost by charging you for diagnostic time. Sometimes the home mechanic can do legitimate diagnostic work with nothing more than a ohmmeter and a rubber tube



To check ignition COILS
With the ignition off, disconnect the electrical connector from the ignition coil. Connect the positive (+) probe of an ohmmeter to terminal no. 1 and the negative (-) probe to terminal no. 2 of the coil connector - the meter should inditcate infinite resistance. Reverse the meter leads( negative probe to terminal no. 1 and positive probe to terminal no.2) - the continutiy should be indicated, but not zero ohms. If hte results are not as specifed, replace the coil.
Connect an ohmmeter between the secondary terminal ( the one that hte spark plug connects to) and terminal no. 1 - the meter should indicate infinite resistance. If not, replace the coil.
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Old 01-06-2004, 04:37 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kevlo911
To check ignition COILS
With the ignition off, disconnect the electrical connector from the ignition coil. Connect the positive (+) probe of an ohmmeter to terminal no. 1 and the negative (-) probe to terminal no. 2 of the coil connector - the meter should inditcate infinite resistance. Reverse the meter leads( negative probe to terminal no. 1 and positive probe to terminal no.2) - the continutiy should be indicated, but not zero ohms. If hte results are not as specifed, replace the coil.
Connect an ohmmeter between the secondary terminal ( the one that hte spark plug connects to) and terminal no. 1 - the meter should indicate infinite resistance. If not, replace the coil.
Or you could just unplug the coil packs one by one to see which one does not make the car run worse....
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Old 01-06-2004, 09:59 PM   #7
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thanks for all the info , i will try it out first thing in mornin , i'm hoping its just the spark plugs, i know the coils are expensive, if it is the coils does anyone know where i can get them for good price?
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Old 01-07-2004, 06:43 AM   #8
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75 dollars at Nissan. Try dealing with them, they'll budge, just print out a quote from Pinnacle Nissan where it's approx 60 dollars and ask them to meet or beat that price.
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Old 01-07-2004, 07:54 AM   #9
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^^Nice suggestion...
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Old 01-12-2004, 11:51 AM   #10
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UPDATE

i changed my spark plugs, and 5th coil , both didnt do nothing, it was the injector , after replacing the injector the car was fine again

thanks to everyone for all info anyway
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Old 12-25-2008, 04:20 PM   #11
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Low Cost Coil Pack

FYI, I a year or so ago purchased a coil pack from Pep Boys here in California. I was OK with going with aftermarket because it was made by Borg Warner and had a little Nissan insignia crossed out on the part -- meaning I believe it is the same part sold by Nissan dealers.

When I compared my old part with the new part, the two were completely identical.
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Old 12-26-2008, 04:50 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 99pearlGXE View Post
FYI, I a year or so ago purchased a coil pack from Pep Boys here in California. I was OK with going with aftermarket because it was made by Borg Warner and had a little Nissan insignia crossed out on the part -- meaning I believe it is the same part sold by Nissan dealers.

When I compared my old part with the new part, the two were completely identical.
And this wonderful flurry of information made you dig up a 4 year old thread?

You should know better than that, considering your join date.
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Old 12-26-2008, 04:50 AM
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