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Old 05-03-2004, 12:11 PM   #1
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Picture of EVAP canister control Valve?

Does anybody have a picture of thier EVAP canister control Valve? I'm pullong the codes for it and want to yank it out and clean it...but want to know what it looks like before I pull ou the wrong thing! lol

Thanks..
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Old 05-03-2004, 01:16 PM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Str8ridin
Does anybody have a picture of thier EVAP canister control Valve? I'm pullong the codes for it and want to yank it out and clean it...but want to know what it looks like before I pull ou the wrong thing! lol

Thanks..
Sorry, no pics, but I can tell you roughly how to fix that problem. Keep in mind, that what I'm about to tell you is probably just a temporary fix, not a solution to the problem. My CEL has never come back since I did this though...

The EVAP canister control valve is located behind the driver's side rear wheel. It looks like a 'black box' of sorts. Just disconnect and hoses/electrical connections going to it and take it off your car. Then you will see a kind of valve type thing screwed onto the box. Just unscrew that.

Now, if you look in the valve, you can see a plunger. When I took mine off and inspected it, the plunger was stuck. This is probably your case also. Just take some good ol WD40 and spray in there and move the plunger up and down with a screw driver or something to work it in.

Like I said, this is probably only a temp fix.

Hope that helps!

drew
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Old 05-03-2004, 01:51 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bluemaxdriver4
Sorry, no pics, but I can tell you roughly how to fix that problem. Keep in mind, that what I'm about to tell you is probably just a temporary fix, not a solution to the problem. My CEL has never come back since I did this though...

The EVAP canister control valve is located behind the driver's side rear wheel. It looks like a 'black box' of sorts. Just disconnect and hoses/electrical connections going to it and take it off your car. Then you will see a kind of valve type thing screwed onto the box. Just unscrew that.

Now, if you look in the valve, you can see a plunger. When I took mine off and inspected it, the plunger was stuck. This is probably your case also. Just take some good ol WD40 and spray in there and move the plunger up and down with a screw driver or something to work it in.

Like I said, this is probably only a temp fix.

Hope that helps!

drew
Ahhh, so it's the valve thing that's screwed to that black box! gotcha. I'll give it the old wd-40 treatment and see what happens. Thanks man..
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Old 05-03-2004, 02:52 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bluemaxdriver4
Sorry, no pics, but I can tell you roughly how to fix that problem. Keep in mind, that what I'm about to tell you is probably just a temporary fix, not a solution to the problem. My CEL has never come back since I did this though...

The EVAP canister control valve is located behind the driver's side rear wheel. It looks like a 'black box' of sorts. Just disconnect and hoses/electrical connections going to it and take it off your car. Then you will see a kind of valve type thing screwed onto the box. Just unscrew that.

Now, if you look in the valve, you can see a plunger. When I took mine off and inspected it, the plunger was stuck. This is probably your case also. Just take some good ol WD40 and spray in there and move the plunger up and down with a screw driver or something to work it in.

Like I said, this is probably only a temp fix.

Hope that helps!

drew
im having the same problem, hopefully this helps.
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Old 05-04-2004, 05:58 AM   #5
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Nice- same here. I will give it a try.

Must the rear wheel be removed to get to it, or can it be handled from under the car w/o jacking it up?
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Old 05-04-2004, 06:03 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by phenryiv1
Nice- same here. I will give it a try.

Must the rear wheel be removed to get to it, or can it be handled from under the car w/o jacking it up?
No, but depening on how low your car is, you might want to jack it up to get better access. It's behind the wheel towrads the back of the car.
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Old 05-04-2004, 06:16 AM   #7
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and basically what the evap does is help your car start????
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Old 05-04-2004, 06:29 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lxl_MaximA_lxl
and basically what the evap does is help your car start????

0705
Diagnostic Trouble Code 0705 points to a problem with the Evaporative Emission Control System.

This malfunction is detected when the EVAP control system has a leak or the EVAP control system does not operate properly. (EVAP = EVAPorative emissions.)
Possible causes include...
- incorrect fuel tank vacuum relief valve
- incorrect fuel filler cap
- fuel filler cap vent remains open or fails to close
- foreign matter caught in fuel filler cap
- a leak in the line between the intake manifold and the
EVAP Canister Vacuum Control Valve
- foreign matter caught in the EVAP CVCV
- leaks in the EVAP canister or fuel tank
- leaks in the EVAP purge line (pipe and rubber tube)
- EVAP purge line rubber tube bent
- blocked or bent rubber tube to EVAP control system pressure sensor
- loose or disconnected rubber tube
- EVAP CVCV and circuit
- EVAP Canister Purge Volume Control Solenoid Valve and circuit
- absolute pressure sensor
- tank fuel temperature sensor
- MAP/BARO switch solenoid valve and circuit
- blocked or bent rubber tube to MAP/BARO switch solenoid valve
- O-ring of EVAP CVCV is missing or damaged
- water separator
- EVAP canister saturated with water
- EVAP control system pressure sensor
- refueling EVAP vapor cut valve
- ORVR system leaks


This is a "jackpot" DTC. It points to so many things you don't know what to check. It is often combined with another DTC which is more specific and therefore more helpful.
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Old 05-04-2004, 06:18 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Str8ridin
0705
Diagnostic Trouble Code 0705 points to a problem with the Evaporative Emission Control System....

...This is a "jackpot" DTC. It points to so many things you don't know what to check. It is often combined with another DTC which is more specific and therefore more helpful.
Precisely

I got a code 0705 and 0309 which the 0309 states in my Haynes manual as 'EVAP canister vent control valve open' which was exactly my problem!

**HINT** **HINT** Invest in a Haynes manual, it can be a life saver!

drew
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Old 05-04-2004, 07:10 PM   #10
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right now i have the same codes as you do bluemaxdriver4. I've been trying to figure out how to fix it and i just got the haynes today but haven't got a chance to look through it. When and if you fix yours let me know what you did so i can fix mine.
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Old 05-04-2004, 07:53 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by abci30
right now i have the same codes as you do bluemaxdriver4. I've been trying to figure out how to fix it and i just got the haynes today but haven't got a chance to look through it. When and if you fix yours let me know what you did so i can fix mine.
Quote:
Originally Posted by bluemaxdriver4
Sorry, no pics, but I can tell you roughly how to fix that problem. Keep in mind, that what I'm about to tell you is probably just a temporary fix, not a solution to the problem. My CEL has never come back since I did this though...

The EVAP canister control valve is located behind the driver's side rear wheel. It looks like a 'black box' of sorts. Just disconnect and hoses/electrical connections going to it and take it off your car. Then you will see a kind of valve type thing screwed onto the box. Just unscrew that.

Now, if you look in the valve, you can see a plunger. When I took mine off and inspected it, the plunger was stuck. This is probably your case also. Just take some good ol WD40 and spray in there and move the plunger up and down with a screw driver or something to work it in.

Like I said, this is probably only a temp fix.

Hope that helps!

drew
I've already fixed mine dood...

It's alright, I'll give ya some slack since your a noob.... hehe

drew
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Old 05-05-2004, 04:27 AM   #12
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There are numerous hoses and canisters down there. Is this the largest of the boxes? I went to buy a haynes but the parts store was all out of them. If I don't get more info today, I will try to find another store w/ a Haynes...
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Old 05-05-2004, 04:54 AM   #13
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BE SURE to call Nissan before you do anything. This was the subject of a recall on most '96 Maximas. The recall will replace the vent control valve, inspect the charcoal (EVAP) cannister (replace if necessary), and add some new doo-dads to the EVAP system to help ensure it runs okay in the future. Don't tinker too much and void the recall if it hasn't been done to your car yet.

The recall was issued in 1998, so if you bought your car used after that, the car may have already had this service done to it. Even if it did, its kinda common for the EVAP vent control valve to still go bad (just poor engineering I guess).

A new direct replacement vent control valve will go for about $30 from Courtesy Nissan. A newer valve is available from most Nissan dealers for about $65-70.
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Old 05-05-2004, 05:31 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crashmanmike
BE SURE to call Nissan before you do anything. This was the subject of a recall on most '96 Maximas. The recall will replace the vent control valve, inspect the charcoal (EVAP) cannister (replace if necessary), and add some new doo-dads to the EVAP system to help ensure it runs okay in the future. Don't tinker too much and void the recall if it hasn't been done to your car yet.

The recall was issued in 1998, so if you bought your car used after that, the car may have already had this service done to it. Even if it did, its kinda common for the EVAP vent control valve to still go bad (just poor engineering I guess).

A new direct replacement vent control valve will go for about $30 from Courtesy Nissan. A newer valve is available from most Nissan dealers for about $65-70.
Wow, interesting. Thanks for the info. You said "most '96 Maximas." So, all other years before '98 were not under the recall? How do I find out if mine is?

Thanks again for the tip..
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Old 05-05-2004, 05:41 AM   #15
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I am in an interesting boat on the recall note- my 97 Infiniti has SOME 97+ maxiima parts and SOME 95-96 Maxima parts...Is there a place (website) to check using the VIN to see if the recall applies?
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Old 05-05-2004, 06:15 AM   #16
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Just have your VIN number handy and call any local Nissan dealer. They can tell you over the phone in a couple minutes.

I only researched my car (which is a '96), so I have no idea about other years.
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Old 05-06-2004, 04:35 AM   #17
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Well, I got a Haynes and went to clean/lube the control valve, but all did not go well. Check out my results here: http://www.maxima.org/forums/showthr...74#post2929974
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Old 05-11-2004, 06:36 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by phenryiv1
Well, I got a Haynes and went to clean/lube the control valve, but all did not go well. Check out my results here: http://www.maxima.org/forums/showthr...74#post2929974
That sucks dude. The same thing happend to me too....the right bolt just kept spinning. But I was able to swivel it around, spray WD-40 in the valve, get the valve loose with a screw driver and put it back together. The CEL hasn't come on for the past 1000 miles, so I think I fixed my problem!
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Old 05-11-2004, 07:03 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Str8ridin
That sucks dude. The same thing happend to me too....the right bolt just kept spinning. But I was able to swivel it around, spray WD-40 in the valve, get the valve loose with a screw driver and put it back together. The CEL hasn't come on for the past 1000 miles, so I think I fixed my problem!
I did the same swivel-spray-replace tactic and when I reset it has stayed off for 2 days. Keeping them crossed. My concern is that it looked like the plunger may have been cut or split, but so far so good...I plan to do an OBD scan tomorrow if it is still off, just to be sure that it is corrected really and the CEL is just not staying off erroniously.
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Old 05-11-2004, 07:06 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by phenryiv1
I did the same swivel-spray-replace tactic and when I reset it has stayed off for 2 days. Keeping them crossed. My concern is that it looked like the plunger may have been cut or split, but so far so good...I plan to do an OBD scan tomorrow if it is still off, just to be sure that it is corrected really and the CEL is just not staying off erroniously.
Cool man, glad you fixed it and I hope the codes comes up clean.
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Old 05-18-2013, 05:16 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by phenryiv1 View Post
I did the same swivel-spray-replace tactic and when I reset it has stayed off for 2 days. Keeping them crossed. My concern is that it looked like the plunger may have been cut or split, but so far so good...I plan to do an OBD scan tomorrow if it is still off, just to be sure that it is corrected really and the CEL is just not staying off erroniously.
I just bought my '99 max yesterday and it had the p0446 amongst other codes. Pulled the canister and the valve, cleaned and lubed it up. Reinstalled and cleared the code and its stayed off so far! Doing this also cleared the p0325 ks code as well. Now on to p1320!
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Old 05-18-2013, 05:33 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Facetorch View Post

I just bought my '99 max yesterday and it had the p0446 amongst other codes. Pulled the canister and the valve, cleaned and lubed it up. Reinstalled and cleared the code and its stayed off so far! Doing this also cleared the p0325 ks code as well. Now on to p1320!
Welcome to the org!

You just bumped an ancient thread!!



Make sure you get OEM coilpacks!!!
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Old 05-18-2013, 11:21 PM   #23
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Welcome to the org!

You just bumped an ancient thread!!



Make sure you get OEM coilpacks!!!
Yeah I only noticed after my post! I was waiting for some flames!
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Old 05-19-2013, 06:56 AM   #24
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Yeah I only noticed after my post! I was waiting for some flames!
You will not get flammed for using the search function or posting in an old thread that has a solution for an ongoing and relevant problem.
Congrats on doing the right thing and not starting a new thread.

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Old 05-19-2013, 06:56 AM
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