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Well everything was going fine... about 3 weeks ago when I went to start the car; click click click; it wouldn't start. Got it diagnosed and found out it was the fuel pump. I replaced it and all was good. The only weird thing was weird was that the red security light stayed light while driving. Now all of a sudden 3 weeks later I try to start the car; click click click and nothing. So I replaced the fuel pump again thinking it went bad because I had a few problems starting over the past couple weeks, just here and there...nothing major. Replaced the fuel pump; click click click; still nothing. So checked the battery and got it towed. Closest place was the stealership so I went there. Sat there for a while and they said that there was power to the immobilization and antenna amplifier for the anti-theft system but they were not working....both at the same time. He said he had never seen anything like that before but it will be just over $1000 and THEN they can find out what caused the problem....WTF....how does something like this just happen outta no where??? Supposidly the other parts couldn't be checked because of that not operating....Can anyone help explain this to me or are they just ****in with me?
Well that is kinda what I thought too man but apparently Nissan says differently....I dunno what to do...Kinda find it hard to believe the whole system will just not work anymore randomly and then im out over $1000....I'm kinda losing faith in my max...
Nick - the stealership is taking you for a ride. It's either your battery or alternator. If it was your fuel pump, it just would turn over with no starting. When you change out your fuel filter, you need to disconnect the fuse for the fuel pump ~ it wasn't your fuel pump to begin with. Who told you your fuel pump was faulty?
Check and make sure your battery terminals are clean and try starting it boosted. With the red light on the dash, it may be your alternator - or your car electrical being wonky cause the car isn't getting enough juice.
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Obviously u can't pull codes cause the car won't start....with it on acc I get no codes. The fuel pump was the problem....a small garage told me that....I tried to start it NUMEROUS times after it came home and nothing....I disconnected the battery popped the fuel pump in and then the car worked fine but after that the security light was on....I read some threads about how other ppl had there security light on and it wasn't an issue so I figured it was fine and I would get it checked out when I had extra money (or in other words never). Anyways then it didn;t start.....supposidly it isn't reading the key but what am I supposed to do?? The car is at the dealership....I can maybe have it towed to someplace else but it is really worth all that hassel if they are right?
I dunno....I know the battery is fine cause I took it out and had it checked. As for the alternator I really can't get that out on my own or in an apt complex.....Any other suggestions...Im out $95 checking fee from the dealer if I leave and then if they are right imma have to go back....its all very weird but I really don't know that much about security systems where I can argue the fact that they are wrong....
I have the same issue! My fuel pump was bad, but changing it didn't fix the issue! It would crank but not start, spent a pile of money on various things! Yes I did all the textbook checks for those who want to jump all over that. A friend of mine owns a garage so I called him and he looked it up on a mechanics only website, he punched in the make, model and year and the first 5 posts were immobilization problem! The security red eye is the indicator, if it is on while cranking!! The site that he used is based on mechanics inputs on what solved the issue that a customer had! I went to the dealership and they will try to program the old key for $50, a new key is $116 + $50 for programming! Although it could be the receiver, I opted for a new key also. If the red light comes on when you crank the engine over, then immobilization is most likely it! My engine actually rotated and fired, just didn't have fuel spray! I even hit it with some starting fluid and it fired right up! You might try that to help narrow it down! Hope this helps, if anything it might ease your mind about the fact that this issue of immobilization does exist.
Last edited by NOVA72SS402; 03-11-2011 at 04:35 PM.
I bought my 99 i30 a little while back, and it had the flashing air bag light thing.. So I found somewhere here on the org that you could reset it by doing the door jam sensor mash trick. So I was trying that a bunch of times and one time instead of turning the key off, (backward) i turned it forward (start). When I did this everything instantly lost power, and wouldn't come back on (anything, dome lights anything, no key response what so ever). But after a few minutes it came back on! woot! So i tried starting the car again, same thing, totally killed power to everything. So i figured the whole computer must have gotten reset somehow.. I ended up being right, and had to reprogram the transponder key and the fob. It's actually really simple you can do it yourself it takes about 1 minute.
1. Turn ignition to on position (no need start)
2. Turn off and take key out
3. Lock all doors with door lock switch
4. insert and remove key from the ignition about 10x. This process is very sensetive. The key stroke has to be very consistant. A nice fluid motion. Do not go too fast. It may work with 8x or it may require 12x but it will work. Most cars will flash its blinkers 2x. The 05-06 frontiers will not flash, just continue.
5. Turn the ignition to the ON position (do not start)
6. Push the lock button on the key fob. Parking lights will flash 2x. If they do not flash, check the battery on the fob or you will need to repeat process all over again.
7. If you need to program additional remotes, unlock then lock the car with the door switch. Then push the lock button on the second remote. lights will flash 2x again. Repeat if necessay for third remote. Note- you can only program up to 3 remotes.
8. Thats it. turn the car off. unlock the doors and check that all remotes have been programed."
After that it worked fine.
So I'm thinking that if the security system isn't recognizing your key, it would do like it did to me, and totally kill power to everything instantly as soon as you try to engage the starter. There would be no clickity clicking...
Oh btw, I did eventually get the flashing air bag light to quit with the door jam trick.
If the car is "Killing" power while you're trying to start is ONLY you're battery or something power related (eg. bad ground)
The instructions smokey potter provided are for programming key fobs and not real keys.
If your light stays on while cranking and you have a 99 I30/Maxima you have a NATS issue.
The ONLY way to resolve a NATS issues is to have a locksmith come, if your problem gets fixed any other way then it is NOT a NATS issue.
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