Car Stalling Randomly
06-13-2006, 09:22 AM
#1
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Join Date: Jul 2003
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Car Stalling Randomly
What would cause my car to stall randomly when coming to a stop? I did pretty much a full tune up last week and it's still doing it. I can feel a hesitation in the power band, which might have something to do with it. Sometimes the hesitation drops where I can feel it at about 2k RPMS. The stalling is sporadic, sometimes it happens as RPMS are falling, sometimes it just happens when idling. Thanks
06-15-2006, 01:54 PM
#5
i have the same problem but have yet to figure it out. i've replaced the coolant temp sensor, cleaned the TB(again) and cleaned the IACV as well as changed sparks (it was time for that anyway). i do not have the hessitation problem, but when it's cold out the car starts to choke and almost stalls when coming to a stop. as soon as it warms up, no problems. when it's warm out i usually don't have the problem.
06-18-2006, 09:29 PM
#8
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My car just started doing this too.. has to be the engine running to cold..
I checked my coolant and its loooking pretty watery and not very green so I think with the cold weather our ECTS is working and is shutting the car off as it thinks its too cold to run... I'm replacing coolant this week and we'll see.. I also notice my K&N is looking bit dirty too
I checked my coolant and its loooking pretty watery and not very green so I think with the cold weather our ECTS is working and is shutting the car off as it thinks its too cold to run... I'm replacing coolant this week and we'll see.. I also notice my K&N is looking bit dirty too
06-19-2006, 09:23 PM
#11
Originally Posted by Black Maxima
When I step on my brakes from about a 30 mph speed, the RPMs drop fast to about 200 rpms. Then raise back up again once I'm at a complete stop. Anyone else having the same problem?
06-20-2006, 12:12 AM
#12
I'm having the same problem...only I'm in Alabama so it has nothing to do with cold weather for me! I have a 5 speed...sometimes I have to put my car in neutral and roll to a stop and tap my gas to keep my rpm's from dropping so fast so my car won't cut off. It's cut off a couple of times while making a normal low speed turn in second gear 
I would really like some help with this one as well. I have noticed also that my idle is very low. Maybe this has something to do with the problem. Lets figure this one out guys.
I would really like some help with this one as well. I have noticed also that my idle is very low. Maybe this has something to do with the problem. Lets figure this one out guys.
06-20-2006, 07:41 AM
#13
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Join Date: Oct 2005
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Originally Posted by Black Maxima
When I step on my brakes from about a 30 mph speed, the RPMs drop fast to about 200 rpms. Then raise back up again once I'm at a complete stop. Anyone else having the same problem?
06-29-2006, 06:15 AM
#16
I just stardted having this problem with my car. Coming to a stop light and the engine will die, and more recently power dropping out at constant speed. THen this morning I started the car and I could barely get it out of the drive way to go to work. I am thinking it is the MAF, fuel pump, or coils. My car has 155k on it so all of those probably need to be replaced. So if any of you guys have the hook up on parts I will gladly take it 
06-29-2006, 06:47 AM
#17
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Location: New York
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Here's something you guys may not have considered... your 4th gen starters are guaranteed to go bad within 10 years of production. Contrary to popular belief, a starter does not ONLY function to start your car. It is very akin to an alternator in the sense that much of the life sustaining energy transfer that stabilizes the systems of your car is channelled through it. I'd bet, if you replace your starter with a 2001+ style starter (they are more efficient and reliable) you'd stop getting all that funny business at low rpms.
06-29-2006, 10:10 AM
#19
I agree with the suggestion regarding the vaccuum.
I know that my idle nearly falls to 0 RPM and stalls when the vaccuum in the swirl valve is terminated. I unplugged a hose for testing, and immediately I noticed the rough and unsteady idle. I would check the EGR and swirl valve (if you have one on your model). I would also check the MAF, air filter, and fuel filters. The starter-motor idea isn't bad either, although I am not sure it is as critical as the alternator.
I know that my idle nearly falls to 0 RPM and stalls when the vaccuum in the swirl valve is terminated. I unplugged a hose for testing, and immediately I noticed the rough and unsteady idle. I would check the EGR and swirl valve (if you have one on your model). I would also check the MAF, air filter, and fuel filters. The starter-motor idea isn't bad either, although I am not sure it is as critical as the alternator.
06-29-2006, 10:12 AM
#20
Originally Posted by Hexon
My car hesitates when my auto changes gears between 1k and 2k rpms. Would the starter affect that or is it just the knock sensor? I have to run the codes to see about the knock sensor.
Sounds more like the knock sensor. A quick way to diagnose is to unplug it from its harness and see if the driving conditions are the same or worsen. Driving with the knock sensor unplugged will do no more damage than normal because your car's ECU immediately recognizes its absence and retards the timing accordingly.
06-29-2006, 12:39 PM
#21
Originally Posted by L0R1DA
Here's something you guys may not have considered... your 4th gen starters are guaranteed to go bad within 10 years of production. Contrary to popular belief, a starter does not ONLY function to start your car. It is very akin to an alternator in the sense that much of the life sustaining energy transfer that stabilizes the systems of your car is channelled through it. I'd bet, if you replace your starter with a 2001+ style starter (they are more efficient and reliable) you'd stop getting all that funny business at low rpms.
06-29-2006, 02:00 PM
#22
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i have the same problem for the past 3 years. As i am braking and coming to a stop, the RPMs will drop to 1000 then slowly goto 600ish and then stall out. This problem would happen everyday for a week or 2, then not happen and come back months later.
My mechanic would drive the car for 2-3 days when it starts happening and well it just never happened when he drove. He has no clue why this would occur.
I have not had this problem in about 6 months and
I have been through about 4 starters in the past 2 years also.
My mechanic would drive the car for 2-3 days when it starts happening and well it just never happened when he drove. He has no clue why this would occur.
I have not had this problem in about 6 months and
I have been through about 4 starters in the past 2 years also.
06-29-2006, 02:33 PM
#23
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i have the same problem for the past 3 years. As i am braking and coming to a stop, the RPMs will drop to 1000 then slowly goto 600ish and then stall out. This problem would happen everyday for a week or 2, then not happen and come back months later.
My mechanic would drive the car for 2-3 days when it starts happening and well it just never happened when he drove. He has no clue why this would occur.
I have not had this problem in about 6 months and
I have been through about 4 starters in the past 2 years also.
My mechanic would drive the car for 2-3 days when it starts happening and well it just never happened when he drove. He has no clue why this would occur.
I have not had this problem in about 6 months and
I have been through about 4 starters in the past 2 years also.
06-30-2006, 10:42 AM
#24
Have any of you checked your PCV valve? These problems all seem related to the EGR or vaccuum regulator components. If you have cleaned the IACV and all of the other well-known issues, move on to the lesser-known. Do you hear any odd whooshing or sucking sounds (disconnected tubes) in the engine bay?
06-30-2006, 12:08 PM
#25
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I own an automatic 1999 maxima. Occasionally for the last year it felt like it was knocking every so often when it was idling. This seemed to happen after the car got warm. Finally last month it started to shut off occasionally when I would come to a stop. The only way to keep it going would be to put the car in neutral and hold the revs up.
It also started to hesitate during gear changes when accelerating.
To make long story short have the TPS sensor checked for voltage. My mechanic had to run the car on and off for half the day before the problem re-occurred. He hooked up his machine to pull information from the cars diagnostics. The TPS sensor is supposed to have 0.35 - 0.65V with the throttle valve fully closed & approximately 4.0V with the throttle valve fully opened. This is after the car has been warmed up, with the ignition switch in the ON position (thus the car is shut off). When he checked it my TPS sensor had 0 volts to it. He adjusted the voltage to about 5 volts and my car idles like it's brand new. I even had to look down a couple of times at the RPMs to make sure the car was still on when I stopped because it’s so quite now.
Hope this helps.
It also started to hesitate during gear changes when accelerating.
To make long story short have the TPS sensor checked for voltage. My mechanic had to run the car on and off for half the day before the problem re-occurred. He hooked up his machine to pull information from the cars diagnostics. The TPS sensor is supposed to have 0.35 - 0.65V with the throttle valve fully closed & approximately 4.0V with the throttle valve fully opened. This is after the car has been warmed up, with the ignition switch in the ON position (thus the car is shut off). When he checked it my TPS sensor had 0 volts to it. He adjusted the voltage to about 5 volts and my car idles like it's brand new. I even had to look down a couple of times at the RPMs to make sure the car was still on when I stopped because it’s so quite now.
Hope this helps.
07-01-2006, 12:44 PM
#26
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Join Date: May 2003
Posts: 217
Originally Posted by L0R1DA
Here's something you guys may not have considered... your 4th gen starters are guaranteed to go bad within 10 years of production. Contrary to popular belief, a starter does not ONLY function to start your car. It is very akin to an alternator in the sense that much of the life sustaining energy transfer that stabilizes the systems of your car is channelled through it. I'd bet, if you replace your starter with a 2001+ style starter (they are more efficient and reliable) you'd stop getting all that funny business at low rpms.As far as the stalling issue what codes have you guys pulled? Does your coolant temperature and air intake tempatures read right (need an OBDII reader for the intake temp). Many things can cause the engine to stall and under certain conditions the computer will even shut the thing down on purpose. For example if the front crank sensor stops getting a reading the ecu shuts it down.
When the car stalls if you let out the clutch (while rolling) does it restart? Can you just turn the key to start to get it to refire or do you have to turn the key to off and then restart (if you have to turn it to off the computer definately shut the thing down).
07-01-2006, 02:08 PM
#27
Originally Posted by Thaniel
What? The instance the engine is started the gear for the starter is retracted and no longer has contact with the engine. It does not spin. No power goes through it. You may as well take the thing off the car. It doesn't do anything when the engine is running.
As far as the stalling issue what codes have you guys pulled? Does your coolant temperature and air intake tempatures read right (need an OBDII reader for the intake temp). Many things can cause the engine to stall and under certain conditions the computer will even shut the thing down on purpose. For example if the front crank sensor stops getting a reading the ecu shuts it down.
When the car stalls if you let out the clutch (while rolling) does it restart? Can you just turn the key to start to get it to refire or do you have to turn the key to off and then restart (if you have to turn it to off the computer definately shut the thing down).
As far as the stalling issue what codes have you guys pulled? Does your coolant temperature and air intake tempatures read right (need an OBDII reader for the intake temp). Many things can cause the engine to stall and under certain conditions the computer will even shut the thing down on purpose. For example if the front crank sensor stops getting a reading the ecu shuts it down.
When the car stalls if you let out the clutch (while rolling) does it restart? Can you just turn the key to start to get it to refire or do you have to turn the key to off and then restart (if you have to turn it to off the computer definately shut the thing down).
it's especially bad in cold weather and in above 60º weather this doesn't really happen.
07-01-2006, 11:40 PM
#28
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Posts: 1,108
I think the problem is our idles, base idle is too low.
When the car is cold the ecu increases the rpm until its warm and then drops it to normal idle rpm levels.. which is too low.. I'm going to follow the IACV adjust instructions to increase my idle.
When warming up (although it does stall now on start) the revs go to 700 as they should but then when warm they drop to 400rpm.. will try adjusting and report back.
When the car is cold the ecu increases the rpm until its warm and then drops it to normal idle rpm levels.. which is too low.. I'm going to follow the IACV adjust instructions to increase my idle.
When warming up (although it does stall now on start) the revs go to 700 as they should but then when warm they drop to 400rpm.. will try adjusting and report back.
07-02-2006, 12:02 AM
#29
Originally Posted by Black Maxima
When I step on my brakes from about a 30 mph speed, the RPMs drop fast to about 200 rpms. Then raise back up again once I'm at a complete stop. Anyone else having the same problem?
07-05-2006, 09:05 PM
#30
same here
I've got the same problem...replaced MAF, all Coilpacks, All spark plugs, Knock sensor, fuel filter, air filter...all bout 1mth ago...and problem not gone, car not giving any codes...I'm fedup now...time to get rid of it....
07-06-2006, 12:06 PM
#31
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Join Date: Jan 2006
Posts: 1
Originally Posted by SMBA
I own an automatic 1999 maxima. Occasionally for the last year it felt like it was knocking every so often when it was idling. This seemed to happen after the car got warm. Finally last month it started to shut off occasionally when I would come to a stop. The only way to keep it going would be to put the car in neutral and hold the revs up.
It also started to hesitate during gear changes when accelerating.
To make long story short have the TPS sensor checked for voltage. My mechanic had to run the car on and off for half the day before the problem re-occurred. He hooked up his machine to pull information from the cars diagnostics. The TPS sensor is supposed to have 0.35 - 0.65V with the throttle valve fully closed & approximately 4.0V with the throttle valve fully opened. This is after the car has been warmed up, with the ignition switch in the ON position (thus the car is shut off). When he checked it my TPS sensor had 0 volts to it. He adjusted the voltage to about 5 volts and my car idles like it's brand new. I even had to look down a couple of times at the RPMs to make sure the car was still on when I stopped because it’s so quite now.
Hope this helps.
It also started to hesitate during gear changes when accelerating.
To make long story short have the TPS sensor checked for voltage. My mechanic had to run the car on and off for half the day before the problem re-occurred. He hooked up his machine to pull information from the cars diagnostics. The TPS sensor is supposed to have 0.35 - 0.65V with the throttle valve fully closed & approximately 4.0V with the throttle valve fully opened. This is after the car has been warmed up, with the ignition switch in the ON position (thus the car is shut off). When he checked it my TPS sensor had 0 volts to it. He adjusted the voltage to about 5 volts and my car idles like it's brand new. I even had to look down a couple of times at the RPMs to make sure the car was still on when I stopped because it’s so quite now.
Hope this helps.
My problem sounds exactly like yours on practically the same car. I came here to ask about it, only to find that I couldn't start threads. I'm going have my mechanic check this out. Thanks.
edit: How much did this service run you?
07-06-2006, 04:10 PM
#32
Member
Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 30
Originally Posted by SMBA
I own an automatic 1999 maxima. Occasionally for the last year it felt like it was knocking every so often when it was idling. This seemed to happen after the car got warm. Finally last month it started to shut off occasionally when I would come to a stop. The only way to keep it going would be to put the car in neutral and hold the revs up.
It also started to hesitate during gear changes when accelerating.
To make long story short have the TPS sensor checked for voltage. My mechanic had to run the car on and off for half the day before the problem re-occurred. He hooked up his machine to pull information from the cars diagnostics. The TPS sensor is supposed to have 0.35 - 0.65V with the throttle valve fully closed & approximately 4.0V with the throttle valve fully opened. This is after the car has been warmed up, with the ignition switch in the ON position (thus the car is shut off). When he checked it my TPS sensor had 0 volts to it. He adjusted the voltage to about 5 volts and my car idles like it's brand new. I even had to look down a couple of times at the RPMs to make sure the car was still on when I stopped because it’s so quite now.
Hope this helps.
It also started to hesitate during gear changes when accelerating.
To make long story short have the TPS sensor checked for voltage. My mechanic had to run the car on and off for half the day before the problem re-occurred. He hooked up his machine to pull information from the cars diagnostics. The TPS sensor is supposed to have 0.35 - 0.65V with the throttle valve fully closed & approximately 4.0V with the throttle valve fully opened. This is after the car has been warmed up, with the ignition switch in the ON position (thus the car is shut off). When he checked it my TPS sensor had 0 volts to it. He adjusted the voltage to about 5 volts and my car idles like it's brand new. I even had to look down a couple of times at the RPMs to make sure the car was still on when I stopped because it’s so quite now.
Hope this helps.
07-06-2006, 04:53 PM
#33
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Join Date: Jul 2006
Posts: 3
any new info?
has anybody figured this out? after a decade of turning wrenches on domestics, i just got married and now i am trying to learn my way around the engine bay of a maxima. its a 1997 and i just performed a tune up on it because... the last time it had anything new on it was when it rolled off the factory line. 
anyway- i changed the spark plugs, air filter, coolant, oil, oil filter, fuel filter, PCV valve, have only been running premium through it... and now it drops to around 500 rpm when in gear but not moving. it idles like total crap. it seems fine at speed however. she told me it was even smoking today- i just got home and am stumped. any ideas or solutions would be appreciated. i'm leaving for a 6 month deployment in 4 days and don't want to leave her stuck with a busted maxima and my barely streetable rock crawler to drive. HELP.
anyway- i changed the spark plugs, air filter, coolant, oil, oil filter, fuel filter, PCV valve, have only been running premium through it... and now it drops to around 500 rpm when in gear but not moving. it idles like total crap. it seems fine at speed however. she told me it was even smoking today- i just got home and am stumped. any ideas or solutions would be appreciated. i'm leaving for a 6 month deployment in 4 days and don't want to leave her stuck with a busted maxima and my barely streetable rock crawler to drive. HELP.
07-06-2006, 05:13 PM
#34
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Posts: 1,108
Originally Posted by katies car
has anybody figured this out? after a decade of turning wrenches on or solutions would be appreciated. i'm leaving for a 6 month deployment in 4 days and don't want to leave her stuck with a busted maxima and my barely streetable rock crawler to drive. HELP.
I have same problem and I have sort of fixed it.. I think its the IACV valve... in the 4thgen faq tells you how to adjust basically.
1. warm car up to operating temperature
2. Turn off car
3. Unplug tps
4. Start car
5. adjust idle using check screw on throttle body
I did this when the car was off, it helped somewhat, i think it needs to be done with car running, which I will do this weekend.
07-06-2006, 05:38 PM
#35
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well- the problem i think involves the knock sensor, (which i've never heard of,) and definatly one dead cylinder. ODBII printouts show that #2 cylinder is not firing correctly. whats more- the "smoke" my wife saw was gasoline burning out of the exhaust. while the car was still running cool- i was able to catch drips of gasoline in my hand- falling right out of the pipe.
i'm guessing now that one of the spark plugs is either bad or i somehow didn't get a good solid contact between the plug and the coil... i'm still just guessing my way around this car though- trying to apply what i know of older american cars. what is an IACV? i assume its a control valve...
i'm guessing now that one of the spark plugs is either bad or i somehow didn't get a good solid contact between the plug and the coil... i'm still just guessing my way around this car though- trying to apply what i know of older american cars. what is an IACV? i assume its a control valve...
07-06-2006, 05:49 PM
#36
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My max has 165K miles on it, and unfortunatly i've never had this problem. (knock on wood) It definatly sounds like a sensor problem. Or maybe even a vacuum problem. Some have been saying the TPS sensor was the problem. If so why didn't the ECU spit a code? (BTW, How does a machanic adjust the voltage on a TPS, this doesnt make sense to me. It's not a voltage source.) And if it's the TPS why would the problem only arise at/near idle?
For some reason, it sounds like a IACV problem. (but again why wouldnt the ECU spit out any codes?) I'm no expert. Im just thinking out-loud trying to throw some ideas. Good luck fellas, i'll stay tuned and post if i fund anything for sure.
For some reason, it sounds like a IACV problem. (but again why wouldnt the ECU spit out any codes?) I'm no expert. Im just thinking out-loud trying to throw some ideas. Good luck fellas, i'll stay tuned and post if i fund anything for sure.
07-06-2006, 05:52 PM
#37
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Posts: 1,108
Originally Posted by katies car
well- the problem i think involves the knock sensor, (which i've never heard of,) and definatly one dead cylinder. ODBII printouts show that #2 cylinder is not firing correctly. whats more- the "smoke" my wife saw was gasoline burning out of the exhaust. while the car was still running cool- i was able to catch drips of gasoline in my hand- falling right out of the pipe.
i'm guessing now that one of the spark plugs is either bad or i somehow didn't get a good solid contact between the plug and the coil... i'm still just guessing my way around this car though- trying to apply what i know of older american cars. what is an IACV? i assume its a control valve...
i'm guessing now that one of the spark plugs is either bad or i somehow didn't get a good solid contact between the plug and the coil... i'm still just guessing my way around this car though- trying to apply what i know of older american cars. what is an IACV? i assume its a control valve...
"A sensor mounted on the engine that is designed to detect the high-frequency vibrations caused by detonation. By employing a knock sensor, a computerized engine-control system allows an engine to operate very near its detonation limit: thereby improving power and efficiency." - Again not your issue as a dead KS will only retard timing not cylinders etc.
07-06-2006, 05:56 PM
#38
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Originally Posted by katies car
well- the problem i think involves the knock sensor, (which i've never heard of,) and definatly one dead cylinder. ODBII printouts show that #2 cylinder is not firing correctly. whats more- the "smoke" my wife saw was gasoline burning out of the exhaust. while the car was still running cool- i was able to catch drips of gasoline in my hand- falling right out of the pipe.
i'm guessing now that one of the spark plugs is either bad or i somehow didn't get a good solid contact between the plug and the coil... i'm still just guessing my way around this car though- trying to apply what i know of older american cars. what is an IACV? i assume its a control valve...
i'm guessing now that one of the spark plugs is either bad or i somehow didn't get a good solid contact between the plug and the coil... i'm still just guessing my way around this car though- trying to apply what i know of older american cars. what is an IACV? i assume its a control valve...
07-06-2006, 06:14 PM
#39
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Join Date: Jul 2006
Posts: 3
Originally Posted by eturnl
I may be talking out of my rear here but, I don't know how it could be the knock sensor. The knock sensor only senses engine knocking (irregular engine combustion) which the ECU then adjusts the air/fuel mixture accordingly. So how could this particular problem be specific to the knock sensor? (besides the ECU should provide a code if the knock sensor is acting up) Someone please correct me if i am incorrect.
ODBII popped a 0325 code which reads-" the PCM hasdetermined that a malfunction existsin the electrical circuit for knock sensor 1."
same thing for a 0150 code referring to a malfunctioning O2 sensor on bank2.
code 0302 indicates a misfire in cylinder 2.
i'm guessing that for whatever reason, cylinder 2 is getting no spark... therefore dumping fuel out the exhaust valves and right out the *** of the car... somewhere along the line this burned up 02 sensor #1...
i do understand the concept of the knock sensor- but i am getting a code for it... which sucks bc it was priced at $170.
tomorrow i will remove ALL the spark plugs and check ALL the connections... look for unusual wear and i guess- maybe switch them around to see if one is consistently malfunctioning.
i have ONE other issue... the instant i finished putting the new fuel filter in- the car takes an additional 5 or so seconds to fire up. it cranks the same, but takes longer... as if fuel is not getting to the motor right away... any ideas on why this might be occurring?
THANK YOU IN ADVANCE.
Cpl Adam Nix
usmc
07-06-2006, 07:55 PM
#40
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Originally Posted by katies car
the reason for my thinking is this-
ODBII popped a 0325 code which reads-" the PCM hasdetermined that a malfunction existsin the electrical circuit for knock sensor 1."
same thing for a 0150 code referring to a malfunctioning O2 sensor on bank2.
code 0302 indicates a misfire in cylinder 2.
i'm guessing that for whatever reason, cylinder 2 is getting no spark... therefore dumping fuel out the exhaust valves and right out the *** of the car... somewhere along the line this burned up 02 sensor #1...
i do understand the concept of the knock sensor- but i am getting a code for it... which sucks bc it was priced at $170.
tomorrow i will remove ALL the spark plugs and check ALL the connections... look for unusual wear and i guess- maybe switch them around to see if one is consistently malfunctioning.
i have ONE other issue... the instant i finished putting the new fuel filter in- the car takes an additional 5 or so seconds to fire up. it cranks the same, but takes longer... as if fuel is not getting to the motor right away... any ideas on why this might be occurring?
THANK YOU IN ADVANCE.
Cpl Adam Nix
usmc
ODBII popped a 0325 code which reads-" the PCM hasdetermined that a malfunction existsin the electrical circuit for knock sensor 1."
same thing for a 0150 code referring to a malfunctioning O2 sensor on bank2.
code 0302 indicates a misfire in cylinder 2.
i'm guessing that for whatever reason, cylinder 2 is getting no spark... therefore dumping fuel out the exhaust valves and right out the *** of the car... somewhere along the line this burned up 02 sensor #1...
i do understand the concept of the knock sensor- but i am getting a code for it... which sucks bc it was priced at $170.
tomorrow i will remove ALL the spark plugs and check ALL the connections... look for unusual wear and i guess- maybe switch them around to see if one is consistently malfunctioning.
i have ONE other issue... the instant i finished putting the new fuel filter in- the car takes an additional 5 or so seconds to fire up. it cranks the same, but takes longer... as if fuel is not getting to the motor right away... any ideas on why this might be occurring?
THANK YOU IN ADVANCE.
Cpl Adam Nix
usmc
I think i recall you mentioning taht you changed your spark plugs, is so i hope they were the oem ngk plugs! Also if the plugs are new, I wouldnt think you really need to check all the plugs, just switch the coil packs to see if you get a different cylinder misfiring. As far as checking your connections; don't the coil packs screw on to the valve cover? how could the connection be bad then? I don't know just thinking out-loud again. Anyway hope that helps.
As far as the fuel filter is concerned, Is it a constant slow staring problem (after every start)? Did you use a nissan fuel filter? Perhaps its upside down? (not to insult you or anything) In fact, I believe i had that same problem, and it went away after a moderate drive and the next start. Besides, you did infact drain the lines and drop the pressue.
