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Intake Air sensor

Old 11-11-2006, 10:54 AM
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Intake Air sensor

Im wondering what happens when This sensor goes bad? what type of symtoms does it cause? I checked my ecu for codes because of some fuel problems and got this code and the knock sensor code also. Well I have a 32,000 mile dek so i guess the codes just came together, but the iat sensor is from my olk de motor. Also the only way to check my codes is with a scan tool. It will not flash the CEL when I try manualy. but the CEL does work I get the P0600 Code too. How do I fix that code so i can check manualy?
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Old 11-11-2006, 12:06 PM
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Did you try simply replacing the sensor? That could be all there is too it. Hopefully nothing big.
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Old 11-11-2006, 12:22 PM
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Originally Posted by Cdg2125
Did you try simply replacing the sensor? That could be all there is too it. Hopefully nothing big.
yes it will be monday before i can replace it. Its about 177 at a to z. Im jsut wondrering what pepple have found them to do when they mess up.
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Old 11-11-2006, 12:33 PM
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Oh ok. $177 is crazy. Good luck with it tho.

Hey did you check the classifieds? You could find a cheap one there I'm sure. At least in good enough shape to see if that will fix the problem.
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Old 11-11-2006, 02:25 PM
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When I need used parts, I contact fanaticrock. He's really cool, he has countless parts cars, and his prices are great. Good luck. Remember the AIT sensor has different connections for different years.
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Old 11-11-2006, 06:52 PM
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I've had a chance to poke around on Motor Alldata (thats a real-time update manufacturer database for cars) about our cars and the air intake temp sensor was one of those dubious components I just had to research, so here is what I found out... Basically the ECU uses the MAF sensor as the primary intake temperature sensor and the air intake temp sensor (tampon-esque module that sticks into the stock air intake path beneath the airbox) is just a secondary signal which is compared to the main signal to calculate the input reading. It's basically our car's appendix and can be replaced with a 2.5 (I have to double-check to be certain...) ohm resistor to always factor in a cool temperature signal. I would not pay $177 for one. The real problem is that you probably need to do an Auto-rx crankcase clean and maybe a new fuel filter or knock sensor, but then again I dont know all the details in your particular case. Keep us informed on your results!
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Old 11-11-2006, 11:36 PM
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Originally Posted by L0R1DA
I've had a chance to poke around on Motor Alldata (thats a real-time update manufacturer database for cars) about our cars and the air intake temp sensor was one of those dubious components I just had to research, so here is what I found out... Basically the ECU uses the MAF sensor as the primary intake temperature sensor and the air intake temp sensor (tampon-esque module that sticks into the stock air intake path beneath the airbox) is just a secondary signal which is compared to the main signal to calculate the input reading. It's basically our car's appendix and can be replaced with a 2.5 (I have to double-check to be certain...) ohm resistor to always factor in a cool temperature signal. I would not pay $177 for one. The real problem is that you probably need to do an Auto-rx crankcase clean and maybe a new fuel filter or knock sensor, but then again I dont know all the details in your particular case. Keep us informed on your results!
what do you mean? It could mess up my knock sensor.
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Old 11-11-2006, 11:37 PM
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Originally Posted by L0R1DA
I've had a chance to poke around on Motor Alldata (thats a real-time update manufacturer database for cars) about our cars and the air intake temp sensor was one of those dubious components I just had to research, so here is what I found out... Basically the ECU uses the MAF sensor as the primary intake temperature sensor and the air intake temp sensor (tampon-esque module that sticks into the stock air intake path beneath the airbox) is just a secondary signal which is compared to the main signal to calculate the input reading. It's basically our car's appendix and can be replaced with a 2.5 (I have to double-check to be certain...) ohm resistor to always factor in a cool temperature signal. I would not pay $177 for one. The real problem is that you probably need to do an Auto-rx crankcase clean and maybe a new fuel filter or knock sensor, but then again I dont know all the details in your particular case. Keep us informed on your results!
what do you mean? It could mess up my knock sensor.
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Old 11-12-2006, 08:24 PM
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Originally Posted by L0R1DA
I've had a chance to poke around on Motor Alldata (thats a real-time update manufacturer database for cars) about our cars and the air intake temp sensor was one of those dubious components I just had to research, so here is what I found out... Basically the ECU uses the MAF sensor as the primary intake temperature sensor and the air intake temp sensor (tampon-esque module that sticks into the stock air intake path beneath the airbox) is just a secondary signal which is compared to the main signal to calculate the input reading. It's basically our car's appendix and can be replaced with a 2.5 (I have to double-check to be certain...) ohm resistor to always factor in a cool temperature signal. I would not pay $177 for one. The real problem is that you probably need to do an Auto-rx crankcase clean and maybe a new fuel filter or knock sensor, but then again I dont know all the details in your particular case. Keep us informed on your results!
Well my car now is going really rich under any type of throttle other than maybe lees than 10% throttle. It will go into the 10 and 9's in air fuel on my wideband and the car is slugish. Not less than 10% throttle it will be around 14.7 Although i did catch my car ideling the other day at like 11.1 and the fuel pump you could hear it screeming. Will the intake sensor cause problems like this?
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