jsouza

yea, i was searching through jime's threads about the subject but all the pics dont show up, it just shows the gay question mark box where the pic should be

jhonny

Hi guys,
I've had my 96 maxima since october and it's been and hell of a ride.
It's been sometimes now that i've thought about modding the car.
I've been thinking about replacing the oil with a premium oil, lowering the suspension, and replacing the air filter with either a cold air filter or a premium air filter.

Those are the springs that i'd like to buy:
http://www.2kracing.com/Product/4931.html

i don't know about what air filter(k&n maybe) to add or premium oil to add, so which one would you suggest?
btw my maxima has 112000 miles
so would you recommend the spring that i've chosen?
if not which one would you recommend?
and which mod would you recommend to do to my car other than these?

thanks in advance,
jhonny

pmohr

iTrader: (26)

Cold air filter? You mean a CAI?

For intake comparison, search. There have been hundreds and hundreds of threads about it.

For oil, search: http://forums.maxima.org/fluids-lubricants-52/

For a review of the springs, search:
http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...-question.html
http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...in-h-tech.html
...etc

Search and read the suspension poll threads, what you get is all up to what you want to happen.

For other mods, search.

Basically, http://forums.maxima.org/search.php

ar99

iTrader: (2)

UPDATE
After being sent the wrong part by mistake and having to wait even longer, I decided to attempt to repair the TCM myself.
First I searched online trying to locate a replacement for the burned capacitor (made by TDK), but nothing matched.
I ended up going to a local electronic parts store where they couldn't find that specific part either. They were able to locate a different part that I could try as a replacement, but it wasn't a capacitor (as I first thought), it was an MOV.
Since I didn't have a better option I decided to give it a try. Went back home, soldered it to the board and then plugged the TCM board back into the harness.
Works like new! Wow!
In the mean time I'm still wainting for the ebay TCM, which I'll keep as a spare.

ps. I didn't take any pics, but I could take some that show the damaged part and the replacement I used to fix it (just in case someone has a similar problem with their car).

wai18

i'm replacing the rear valves cover gasket but i can't take the upper intake manifold off it seem like the back is secure with bolts i can feel it has 3 bolts. i can't take those off is hard to reach. its there anything else hiding on the back of UIM that needs to get it off?

The Wizard

iTrader: (43)

There are actually two tricky bolts back there holding the UIM on. Use a ratchet with a flexible head. I believe it's a 12mm socket you'll need as well. It's not hard with the right tools. I've also done it with a 12mm ratcheting wrench.

Then you'll have fun dealing with the coolant line hoses near the EGR valve. Then you're home free.

Enigmaz Powa

Really? no one is going to Respond or atleast point me in a direction?[COLOR="Red"][/COLOR]

Replaced spark plugs again and noW i'm gettin no spark? Will a faulty ignition switch turn the starter but not send a signal to crank?

bassmann

Yes I just removed the hose in the middle it is connected to the tubes not the reservior it has cracks in it. Do you know the name for that hose?

TightNiassan

Ok so im new and really wanted my own thread so i can get some real feed back on this, here it goes, So im 17 the names jesse and im out for makin a 4th nissan maxima my first car and i have one in my sights 5 speed black on black leather with sunroof for only 700 but heres the problems,the driverside rocker is so bad condition it needs to be totally replaced, needs new front tires, the springs were heated to be lowered and when they could not sell it for a high price they took out the stereo which they had modded too. In doing so, they disconnected the fuses and say it is not an electrical problem, it needs an alternator and about 284,000k and thats about it(well that they tell me) as i am very low on cash, and once school gets back in(which i go to school) i can bring it into the school shop and work on it all my self with a hoist numatic tools and everything id ever need that a pro shop has all for free so please help!!!

pmohr

iTrader: (26)

It's a return hose, brings fluid from the pump down through the cooler, then up to the reservoir.

49725-58U01, $21.18 each at Courtesy


Help with...what? You made one (extremely long) statement, you never asked a question.

Please, sentence structure and periods.

TightNiassan

help to see if i should buy it and i didnt think you needed to use proper grammer in a forum sorry but i wanna know if its a good deal for its price

pmohr

iTrader: (26)

For $700, just about any A32 that runs and isn't missing every body panel is a 'decent' deal. But really it's all up to you, whether or not you think it's worth it. Basically, whether or not you could fix it for less than the price of actually buying a car in decent condition.

And it's not like it's required (unlike dsmtalk and others), but why exactly would you drop to the point of illegibility when making a post on a forum, where you actually want other people to read and respond?

The worse your post is written, the fewer people will even bother to read through it.

TightNiassan

well i can fix all that just like is it worth it with that many kilometers and the condition its it like they said there mechanic said it would cost 1500 just to fix all that crap and i have plans for lots of aftermarket seeing as i am a nissan enthusiest like how much is a swap to vq30de-k or a vq35 just instalation cuz i can get the engine from my buddys scrap yard for like 5-700

pmohr

iTrader: (26)

Again, it's up to you whether or not it's worth it, and again, for a running and driving A32 $700 is decent.

You need to search, people have posted overall cost for DE-K/VQ35 swaps. Not that it matters, since your cost won't be the same as any of theirs. No one's swap costs the same (assuming they don't get it done through the same person), it all depends on motor cost, labor (if you for whatever reason can't, or can't be bothered to do it yourself), various extra parts you will need halfway through the swap, fluids, etc.

Do some research, then you'll know how much it's going to cost you. Just plan on 10% extra.

If you're going to get it installed by someone else, then you need to ask them, not us. We have no way of knowing how many hours they'll quote you, labor rate, shop supplies, taxes, etc. You're asking the wrong people.

And if you have plans for 'lots' of aftermarket pieces...then you're looking at the wrong car. Z, S, B, hell even U chassis cars have more overall aftermarket support than the A32 ever will.

TightNiassan

i mean like speed i love this car and thats why i want it so bad 4thgen is betta then the rest in my eyes

wai18

what happen if the lower egr gasket is not install. is it bad for the engine?

memphisballer

iTrader: (7)

Its gonna be the next new wave of ebay technology.similar to the magnetic gas saver.

pmohr

iTrader: (26)

Not necessarily, if it's not leaking. If it is leaking, you're going to be flooding the engine bay with very hot exhaust gas whenever the EGR valve is opened.

Billyh

Hey Pmohr,

Thanks for the help. It was the shield... well.. it was the rotor rust scraping on the shield. Pieces on the inner face of the rotor were flaked but hadn't chipped off (in the outer surface, not where the pad contacts). I flaked it off and banged the rust off the shield.

Now onto the other tasks. I have a rear o2 sensor fault, a knock sensor fault and an EGR fault. I will search through the forums to find out which ones are a priority. As well, the multi-switch spews smoke from time to time. I think I saw a post about that somewhere in here as well (and wondering if it is serviceable). Oh yeah.. the airbag light is flashing and won't stop (checked the connections, reset it and it came back on). I mostly saw posts that said to have it serviced... but I don't have that kind of money at the moment. Seatbelts will have to do for now.

I will no doubt be posting regarding some of this work.

pmohr

iTrader: (26)

Generally, you want to fix all other codes and reset before you do the KS, it's been known to be thrown by other (mostly emissions) codes.

Rear O2 won't affect driveability, performance, or fuel economy, so that's pretty much a 'replace it if you need to pass inspection' type item.

What EGR code are you getting? There are several of them.

What's smoking, the headlight stalk? Indeed, I do remember a thread or two on that. I would just replace it personally.

For the airbag light, have you checked the codes? Procedure is on RS-24 (http://boredmder.com/FSM/Nissan/Maxima/1996/rs.pdf, page 24).

Billyh

Great. So, I will leave the rear o2 for now because I have no inspections to deal with.

The EGR code is an 0302 and I have printed out the couple pages that describe the blowing and the sucking I have to do. I tried to start on it once and had difficulty identifying the solenoid as there were two that looked identical in the same area. However, I think I will manage to figure it out this time (I was tired). After I figure out what is wrong with these, I will check out the knock sensor. Are either of these two codes (or symptoms) harmful to the vehicle? I only ask because they have been on the car for a while (not while it was in my possession).

As for the airbag, I get the continuous flashing (problem in the past). It goes out for about a day or two when it is reset, then pops back on. I am not certain if it would be related to the smoking in the multi-switch.

And, onto the smoking. My girlfriend reported that it was smoking on a few occasions, but I could not replicate it. I took the column apart and did not see any damage. Just before the weekend, it smoked for me and I could see that it was coming from the area around the turn signal, inside the switch. It smelled like burned wires and smoked for about 40 seconds. I'm not a fan of fires in the steering column, so I will take care of this one soon.

scrib99

iTrader: (2)

I have a 99 GLE and it makes a rubbing noise when i initially back up. It specifically happens when i let of the brake. I did replace the rear pads, rotors and a seized caliper about two months ago but the noise is still there. Any suggestions before i take it to the shop, also would using my parking brake have anything to do with this noise?

95franklin

Well, if your parking brake is off then it won't have anything to do with the noise. lol. It's pretty normal though. Don't worry about it.

jsouza

it is pretty common for there to be a rubbing noise in both drive and reverse. if it doesnt sound like brake rub it could be a rusting rotor shield, ive had that happen, just somethin u might want to check, otherwise if it gets louder or effects braking than id have it cheked out

scrib99

iTrader: (2)

The noise it not all the time just when i reverse out of a parking spot for example. I use my parking brake everytime i park thats why i thought that might be an issue.

Phatso

I'm looking at trading a guy for a 1996 Maxima SE. When I went to his house to look at the car I was surprised at how decent the car was. My question is this, when he opened the hood the engine is badged Infinity and he said the engine was out of an Infinity. Is this a good thing, a bad thing or should I not even worry? I am not new to cars, but I am new to the Maxima scene so please bear with my ignorance.

pmohr

iTrader: (26)

Assuming it came out of a (4th gen) I30, same damn thing.

Well have you tried parking without the parking brake, see if it makes the noise then?

scrib99

iTrader: (2)

The motor was most likely out of a I30, so i dont think its a problem because its the exact same motor, just make sure the swap was done correctly

tarheel62592

iTrader: (1)

Will an aftermarket Ypipe and high flow cat really make a noticable difference?

pmohr

iTrader: (26)

Have you searched?

Y yes, converter no.

tarheel62592

iTrader: (1)

Yea, alittle and would i still get the horsepower out of an exhaust system if i kept the stock muffler but did the rest?

pmohr

iTrader: (26)

Search will also yield that answer.

You're not going to gain much through an exhaust anyway. If you want to keep a stock rear section, the A33B muffler has been shown to flow at least 240whp.

Phatso

Everything looks straight in the engine bay. The car runs fine, it just lags a little at low RPM when you try to accelerate. But I think it could be a dirty MAF sensor, I will clean it this afternoon once I get the car home. It's a 5 speed and the tranny works fine. He said the tranny came with the motor from the Infinity. Did all of those motors come with LSD or no? Is there a way to tell if the car has an LSD?

pmohr

iTrader: (26)

The engine can't have a limited slip, but no, not all of the i30's came with VLSD.

Yes, there are ways to tell. You could try spinning one wheel and observing the other, though IIRC that isn't the best way to test the VLSD. You could also look at the sizes of both axles, that'd clue you in.

Why don't you just ask the owner?

Phatso

Oh I asked him alright. All he can tell me is that the motor came out of an Infinity. So I decided to ask the experts. I appreciate the help, I hope I can contribute my own as time passes.

J RO 9

iTrader: (2)

i have the code p0744
the 2 possibilities for this code are:
-tranny won't shift into 4th, or
-torque converter won't lock into gear

my tranny shifts into fourth, so i have the other symptom. my shifts feel rough, and sometimes when i'm going ~70 mph, and i let go of the gas, the RPM falls to 500 as if it is in neutral. when i give it gas, there is like a "thump" and the car gets in the right gear, kind of like it is rev matching. my worst symptom is when i am at a complete stop. if i let go of the brakes, the car does not inch forward. i have to give it gas for the car to move and get into gear.

instead of getting a new torque converter, is it more practical to get another tranny? i have the opportunity to an auto with 60k miles for $350.

Naws

I am replacing my CV axles tomorrow, I was wondering if I need to get any other parts or tools?
I read the write up but it wasn't so clear, do I have to change my transmission fluid? And I read something about seals, do I need to buy those?

my car is an auto

pmohr

iTrader: (26)

You don't need to 'change' the trans fluid, but you do at least have to top it off.

Well you don't have to, but it would be a good idea.

Depends, are your current axle seals leaking, or do you want to replace good seals for no reason? If so, go ahead and replace them.

Need to get any other parts or tools other than...what? We don't know what you have, and you've neglected to tell us if you even have any tools.

You could, assuming the new trans comes with a torque converter. They are completely separate pieces, so they don't necessarily come together.

Naws

thanks for the reply, I meant if I needed any special tools, I have any normal tools, no air gun though

pmohr

iTrader: (26)

Besides the axle nut socket, no.