NOOBIES: "I AM NEW HERE BUT HAVE A QUESTION" thread. Read FIRST post BEFORE posting!
07-06-2009, 11:47 AM
#4081
Wow I've been reading all your posts and I'm still scratching my head 
You've got a complex problem haha
But the only thing that have been bothering me is that ONE Bosch spark plug, which might be the cause of the knock.
Also I agree with Pmohr I remembered reading a lot about failing coil packs causing the same problems.
This is painfully obvious but has the car been filled with 91 Octane gas, lower octane will probably not cause a knock for you to notice but its worth a shot checking.
You've got a complex problem haha
But the only thing that have been bothering me is that ONE Bosch spark plug, which might be the cause of the knock.
Also I agree with Pmohr I remembered reading a lot about failing coil packs causing the same problems.
This is painfully obvious but has the car been filled with 91 Octane gas, lower octane will probably not cause a knock for you to notice but its worth a shot checking.
I purchased a few coil packs from MOHF in the sale forums. Hopefully here in 2 days. Only 1 rear new coming but I can play find the faulty coil.
I've seen it posted before about disconnecting coil packs from the wiring to see if its the coil but is that good for the system and my health/safety? Since the missing was happening much more this morning it may be easier to diagnose which of the coils is dead or dying, if any are at all.
I may take off the KS just to see if it's cracked in any form. I'll scour car parts for cheap ones if I can grab it then it'll get replaced but from reading about the sensor it really doesn't matter. Retarding the timing wouldn't cause any misfire issues even if I'm running 87 unleaded, correct? The retardation (if any right now) is just a safety measure if the computer thinks that the KS is out as far as I've read. In fact, the KS retards the timing period if it is knocking at all.
Last edited by bushd; 07-06-2009 at 11:55 AM.
07-06-2009, 11:50 AM
#4082
Seems my car shakes more now and when at lower (sub-1000) rpms.
A general question kind of related to my current issues:
When the ECU spits a knock code that doesn't mean its dead necessarily, it could be tripped from serious knocking?
If the ECU self diag spits a knock and I reset it, I fixed said issue, would the OBD ii spit the knock code too? OBD ii only read a knock code and not the other that self-diag. did. The self-diag isn't showing knock since I reset it and fixed the issue. Issue was leaving the coil pack unplugged.
A general question kind of related to my current issues:
When the ECU spits a knock code that doesn't mean its dead necessarily, it could be tripped from serious knocking?
If the ECU self diag spits a knock and I reset it, I fixed said issue, would the OBD ii spit the knock code too? OBD ii only read a knock code and not the other that self-diag. did. The self-diag isn't showing knock since I reset it and fixed the issue. Issue was leaving the coil pack unplugged.
So the OBD-II reader wasn't reading any code other than the KS? That's...interesting.
90% of the time, an OBD-II scan and the ECU self-diagnosis should read exactly the same. There have been a few reported incidents of them differing, though.
07-06-2009, 12:22 PM
#4083
pmohr you mentioned grabbing coils from junkyards but is that a luck of the draw or are you testing them on site somehow? I mean besides sticking them in your car, if that is the case.
If you clear the ECU how long does it give before a cel will light again for the same issue? I got 0201 and 0304 or 0403 (whichever is the knock) I can't remember. I plugged in the coil that in my rush to get to work I forgot to plug in, cleared the ECU and haven't had the cel turn on again. Those two tripped the cel after I left the coil pack unplugged. Autozone OBD ii showed only one code for KS. I think I checked the ECU diag. again and got nothing but I'll try it again later to see if KS shows up.
If you clear the ECU how long does it give before a cel will light again for the same issue? I got 0201 and 0304 or 0403 (whichever is the knock) I can't remember. I plugged in the coil that in my rush to get to work I forgot to plug in, cleared the ECU and haven't had the cel turn on again. Those two tripped the cel after I left the coil pack unplugged. Autozone OBD ii showed only one code for KS. I think I checked the ECU diag. again and got nothing but I'll try it again later to see if KS shows up.
07-06-2009, 12:26 PM
#4084
pmohr you mentioned grabbing coils from junkyards but is that a luck of the draw or are you testing them on site somehow? I mean besides sticking them in your car, if that is the case.
If you clear the ECU how long does it give before a cel will light again for the same issue? I got 0201 and 0304 or 0403 (whichever is the knock) I can't remember. I plugged in the coil that in my rush to get to work I forgot to plug in, cleared the ECU and haven't had the cel turn on again. Those two tripped the cel after I left the coil pack unplugged. Autozone OBD ii showed only one code for KS. I think I checked the ECU diag. again and got nothing but I'll try it again later to see if KS shows up.
If you clear the ECU how long does it give before a cel will light again for the same issue? I got 0201 and 0304 or 0403 (whichever is the knock) I can't remember. I plugged in the coil that in my rush to get to work I forgot to plug in, cleared the ECU and haven't had the cel turn on again. Those two tripped the cel after I left the coil pack unplugged. Autozone OBD ii showed only one code for KS. I think I checked the ECU diag. again and got nothing but I'll try it again later to see if KS shows up.
0304 is KS, and it won't light the CEL. A so called 'ghost code'.
As far as the CEL relighting for the same issue, depends on what it is. If it's a 'hard' error, like a component completely failed or unplugged, then usually after one drive cycle. If for something else that takes a while, like an EVAP system leak, EGR flow, etc, then it could take quite a while.
07-06-2009, 05:33 PM
#4085
Some new things have happened. Waiting on coils to be shipped (paid for 2nd day priority from USPS) and a cel hit when I was near home. I was hoping finally it would tell me which cylinder the coil was going out on. Actually what I got back was 0302 and 0304. EGR is high or low and KS. Would a misfiring/dying coil cause the EGR to have issues since it is dumping gas? My guess is the EGR would be low if that was the case as there is less gas and more liquid entering exhaust from cylinders.
Really starting to misfire/shake now and I think the performance is starting to take a hit, noticable atleast.
It could be an egr obstruction and I was planning on cleaning the TB tonight but it seems to be getting late and if I was going that far I'd hit the EGR, maf, etc. Any idea on time for dismantling and reassembly for cleaning?
Any ideas on whether the EGR could be the result of the bad coil and whether I should be ignoring this until the coils get here?
Really starting to misfire/shake now and I think the performance is starting to take a hit, noticable atleast.
It could be an egr obstruction and I was planning on cleaning the TB tonight but it seems to be getting late and if I was going that far I'd hit the EGR, maf, etc. Any idea on time for dismantling and reassembly for cleaning?
Any ideas on whether the EGR could be the result of the bad coil and whether I should be ignoring this until the coils get here?
Last edited by bushd; 07-06-2009 at 05:36 PM.
07-06-2009, 06:06 PM
#4086
07-06-2009, 06:23 PM
#4088
07-06-2009, 07:10 PM
#4090
07-06-2009, 07:13 PM
#4091
I may take off the KS just to see if it's cracked in any form. I'll scour car parts for cheap ones if I can grab it then it'll get replaced but from reading about the sensor it really doesn't matter. Retarding the timing wouldn't cause any misfire issues even if I'm running 87 unleaded, correct? The retardation (if any right now) is just a safety measure if the computer thinks that the KS is out as far as I've read. In fact, the KS retards the timing period if it is knocking at all.
Though I wouldn't trust a used one, you can get them BNIB on eBay for ~$25. The ~$60 ones are brand new OEM, FWIW.
07-06-2009, 07:21 PM
#4092
What do you think about the cel giving EGR code? I haven't opened it up yet and I just reset the cel to see what happens in the morning but the car sounded like normal (w/ bad coil) when I started it a minute ago.
Going to call Nissan dealership tomorrow (Autozone failed me) to get the new gaskets for the TB, EGR tube, and IACV when I clean out the lot tomorrow thanks to the stickied how-to section. This forum actually makes me want to work on the car rather then throw cash at it.
Going to call Nissan dealership tomorrow (Autozone failed me) to get the new gaskets for the TB, EGR tube, and IACV when I clean out the lot tomorrow thanks to the stickied how-to section. This forum actually makes me want to work on the car rather then throw cash at it.
Last edited by bushd; 07-06-2009 at 07:24 PM.
07-06-2009, 07:36 PM
#4093
What do you think about the cel giving EGR code? I haven't opened it up yet and I just reset the cel to see what happens in the morning but the car sounded like normal (w/ bad coil) when I started it a minute ago.
Going to call Nissan dealership tomorrow (Autozone failed me) to get the new gaskets for the TB, EGR tube, and IACV when I clean out the lot tomorrow thanks to the stickied how-to section. This forum actually makes me want to work on the car rather then throw cash at it.
Going to call Nissan dealership tomorrow (Autozone failed me) to get the new gaskets for the TB, EGR tube, and IACV when I clean out the lot tomorrow thanks to the stickied how-to section. This forum actually makes me want to work on the car rather then throw cash at it.
Yea, Autozone doesn't seem to carry much for the A32.
If you plan on doing any other top end work like replacing valve cover gaskets, removing the UIM, etc, I'd wait on buying the gaskets locally and cleaning everything, and just order a head gasket set on eBay. ~$70 for the set, and it has everything you need to R&R the heads. IACV, EGR, TB, UIM-LIM, LIM-heads, valve cover gaskets, exhaust manifold gaskets, etc.
07-06-2009, 08:04 PM
#4094
The EGR code is likely a completely blocked EGR guide tube.
Yea, Autozone doesn't seem to carry much for the A32.
If you plan on doing any other top end work like replacing valve cover gaskets, removing the UIM, etc, I'd wait on buying the gaskets locally and cleaning everything, and just order a head gasket set on eBay. ~$70 for the set, and it has everything you need to R&R the heads. IACV, EGR, TB, UIM-LIM, LIM-heads, valve cover gaskets, exhaust manifold gaskets, etc.
Yea, Autozone doesn't seem to carry much for the A32.
If you plan on doing any other top end work like replacing valve cover gaskets, removing the UIM, etc, I'd wait on buying the gaskets locally and cleaning everything, and just order a head gasket set on eBay. ~$70 for the set, and it has everything you need to R&R the heads. IACV, EGR, TB, UIM-LIM, LIM-heads, valve cover gaskets, exhaust manifold gaskets, etc.
I'm going to have to deal with the EGR cel until wednesday (thursday maximum) for the new coils to come in so I can take half the day off from univ. and deal with the lot of what I want to do.
Last edited by bushd; 07-06-2009 at 08:30 PM.
07-06-2009, 11:07 PM
#4095
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Jul 2009
Posts: 2
loose steering wheel when accelerating
I just bought a 98 Max GLE with 97k on original motor and tranny. Pretty clean and nice ride. However, when I accelerate the steering wheel feels loose towards the left side and the car will shoot forward. Even if Im turning left! When I let go of the accelerator the car will recatch the grip towards the left side and then I need to cut back to the right to steady her out. This only happens to the left side. When turning right this problem doesnt happen. I dont know what it can possible be. When driving straight it does slightly pull to the right side so a wheel alignment is probably needed but I cant imagine that this could be the cause of the pulling problem. Can anyone help explain this?!?
07-07-2009, 08:27 AM
#4097
Did you read the stickies?
http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...hread-yet.html
For the year...have you looked at your registration, title, or insurance? Failing that, every VIN on the car tells you what year, there's a production date in the door jamb, and a model year on the emissions label under the hood.
http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...hread-yet.html
TO DECODE THE VIN PLATE:
Raise your hood. Look for a shiny metal identification tag fastened to the passenger side of firewall. The top row is the Vehicle Identification Number, starting with J. The second row is model information. The first five characters are BLHUL. The sixth character is the trim level designator, defined as follows:
E = GXE
G = GLE
V = SE
Raise your hood. Look for a shiny metal identification tag fastened to the passenger side of firewall. The top row is the Vehicle Identification Number, starting with J. The second row is model information. The first five characters are BLHUL. The sixth character is the trim level designator, defined as follows:
E = GXE
G = GLE
V = SE
07-07-2009, 08:53 AM
#4098
Member
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Woodbridge, VA
Posts: 69
Did you read the stickies?
http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...hread-yet.html
For the year...have you looked at your registration, title, or insurance? Failing that, every VIN on the car tells you what year, there's a production date in the door jamb, and a model year on the emissions label under the hood.
http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...hread-yet.html
For the year...have you looked at your registration, title, or insurance? Failing that, every VIN on the car tells you what year, there's a production date in the door jamb, and a model year on the emissions label under the hood.
07-07-2009, 08:56 AM
#4099
07-07-2009, 09:34 AM
#4100
Member
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Woodbridge, VA
Posts: 69
07-07-2009, 04:08 PM
#4101
my brake light on my dash came on a couple of weeks ago. i checked under my hood to see my brake fluid level and it was on the minimum line. i topped it off, and the brake light went off. since than, this happens every 3 days. could this be a leak? my front pads & rotors were changed back in september, only about ~10k on them
07-07-2009, 04:10 PM
#4102
my brake light on my dash came on a couple of weeks ago. i checked under my hood to see my brake fluid level and it was on the minimum line. i topped it off, and the brake light went off. since than, this happens every 3 days. could this be a leak? my front pads & rotors were changed back in september, only about ~10k on them
Have you checked for a leak yet? It should be fairly obvious if you're losing that much in that period of time, should be a large wet spot along the lines somewhere.
If you don't see anything on the lines/hoses themselves, it's possible it's leaking back into the booster as well.
07-07-2009, 08:19 PM
#4103
Member
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: St. Charles
Posts: 168
I have been searching all day for this. I just bought a new grille for my 98' and i really really like the badge on the front of the most recent MOTM (Flava 24/7):
http://forums.maxima.org/maxima-mont...ima-month.html
...does anyone know where to get one? I know I saw something on this earlier in the week but i can't find it anywhere.
http://forums.maxima.org/maxima-mont...ima-month.html
...does anyone know where to get one? I know I saw something on this earlier in the week but i can't find it anywhere.
07-07-2009, 08:23 PM
#4104
I have been searching all day for this. I just bought a new grille for my 98' and i really really like the badge on the front of the most recent MOTM (Flava 24/7):
http://forums.maxima.org/maxima-mont...ima-month.html
...does anyone know where to get one? I know I saw something on this earlier in the week but i can't find it anywhere.
http://forums.maxima.org/maxima-mont...ima-month.html
...does anyone know where to get one? I know I saw something on this earlier in the week but i can't find it anywhere.
You didn't even need to search, it wasn't even halfway down the front page.
Ordering information is in the thread.
07-07-2009, 09:00 PM
#4105
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Jul 2009
Posts: 2
Hi - I've got a 99 Maxima and retrieved a PO325 knock sensor code. The car is running rough at idle and when driving at below 2500 rpm. Could this be a result of it running in 'safe mode' or would the rough idle etc cause a PO325?
Cheers
Cheers
07-07-2009, 09:03 PM
#4106
Replace all of the coils, then go from there.
The KS is a common code to pop up, due to it's not lighting the CEL; it could be throwing that code forever and you wouldn't know until you pulled the codes when the CEL comes on.
07-07-2009, 09:08 PM
#4107
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Atlanta, Georgia
Posts: 10
Alright yes im a noob and yes your probally going to laugh when I ask this!
Just now recently trying to keep a tight budget and save money and have never changed my own brakes lol. Was wondering if there was a site that showed step by step how to change front brakes on a 1999 nissan maxima?
It looks easy as hell.. Just need to make sure i don't mess something up..
Just now recently trying to keep a tight budget and save money and have never changed my own brakes lol. Was wondering if there was a site that showed step by step how to change front brakes on a 1999 nissan maxima?
It looks easy as hell.. Just need to make sure i don't mess something up..
07-07-2009, 09:14 PM
#4108
Alright yes im a noob and yes your probally going to laugh when I ask this!
Just now recently trying to keep a tight budget and save money and have never changed my own brakes lol. Was wondering if there was a site that showed step by step how to change front brakes on a 1999 nissan maxima?
It looks easy as hell.. Just need to make sure i don't mess something up..
Just now recently trying to keep a tight budget and save money and have never changed my own brakes lol. Was wondering if there was a site that showed step by step how to change front brakes on a 1999 nissan maxima?
It looks easy as hell.. Just need to make sure i don't mess something up..
There's also a guide on Motorvate, with pics.
07-07-2009, 09:28 PM
#4110
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Atlanta, Georgia
Posts: 10
I tried to pull Motorvate up. But when I clicked on the Front Brakes Assembly on the page it would not pull it up. Is their site down or experiencing problems?
07-07-2009, 09:29 PM
#4111
07-08-2009, 10:29 AM
#4113
The problem of my potential misfiring/shaking from a bad coil pack has disappeared. It won't happen anymore and I just as of making this post got the new (minus 2 rear) set of coilpacks from another seller on here. Quite frustrating because I need it to misfire so I can figure out which of the rear, if so, is dying to replace it while I wait on the other two to come.
Any thoughts on this? A problem suddenly fixing itself is usually not really a fix. Always calm before the storm I hear.
Any thoughts on this? A problem suddenly fixing itself is usually not really a fix. Always calm before the storm I hear.
07-08-2009, 10:34 AM
#4114
Site is back up now. http://www.motorvate.ca/mvp.php/300
Test out all the coils with a multimeter. You're not looking for a specific value, but rather an outlier from the norm. A coil with different readings by a wide margin will most likely be your bad coil.
The problem of my potential misfiring/shaking from a bad coil pack has disappeared. It won't happen anymore and I just as of making this post got the new (minus 2 rear) set of coilpacks from another seller on here. Quite frustrating because I need it to misfire so I can figure out which of the rear, if so, is dying to replace it while I wait on the other two to come.
Any thoughts on this? A problem suddenly fixing itself is usually not really a fix. Always calm before the storm I hear.
Any thoughts on this? A problem suddenly fixing itself is usually not really a fix. Always calm before the storm I hear.
07-08-2009, 10:54 AM
#4116
...what do you mean you can't post? You just did. 
Use the newbie thread like everyone else.
But first, search. I can all but guarantee your 'real problem' has been covered dozens of times in the past.
Use the newbie thread like everyone else.
But first, search. I can all but guarantee your 'real problem' has been covered dozens of times in the past.
07-08-2009, 10:57 AM
#4117
Site is back up now. http://www.motorvate.ca/mvp.php/300
Test out all the coils with a multimeter. You're not looking for a specific value, but rather an outlier from the norm. A coil with different readings by a wide margin will most likely be your bad coil.
Test out all the coils with a multimeter. You're not looking for a specific value, but rather an outlier from the norm. A coil with different readings by a wide margin will most likely be your bad coil.
07-08-2009, 11:46 AM
#4119
I didn't know search was broken?? 
2 second search has revealed....there are tons more. I typed in "headlight removal"
http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...t-removal.html
http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...y-removal.html
http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...headlight.html
2 second search has revealed....there are tons more. I typed in "headlight removal"
http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...t-removal.html
http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...y-removal.html
http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...headlight.html
