tc97max

iTrader: (2)

Is it normal for the front pads to wear alot faster then the rears. My front pads look like they need replaced but my rears look like they are brand new and they were all put on at the same time.

Kevlo911

iTrader: (36)

Yes .

KRRZ350

iTrader: (29)

The pre-99 coils were made by hanshin, they switched manufacturers to mitsubushi for the '99's and those are the ones that are notorious for going bad, the hanshin coils rarely ever fail, the overall design never changed and you can intechange them just fine, they are nearly identical except for the name imprinted on them.

NElsonAQuino

iTrader: (1)

fixed on bottom

NElsonAQuino

iTrader: (1)

well i have just had my clutch replaced about 2 weeks ago and before i had it done when i would turn on my car from cold start with the clutch not pressed in, you could hear like a kind of grinding noise while in N, then when i put it in gear and accelerate, the sound would go away but when i let go off the gas it would make a weird sort of grinding noise again on the de-cel. any ideas, the sound gets less noisy when its warmed up but its still there, espcially on 1st and 2nd gear de-cel. also i have recently started leaking trans fluid, but i think this could be fault of the mechanic that installed my clutch. well any idea's on what can be wrong with my trans?

Cdg2125

iTrader: (7)

Why not go back to the shop you had it done and have them look at it since it happened after they worked on it?

KRRZ350

iTrader: (29)

It sounds like he had the problem before hand. Anyways, read the excellent new write-up by deegeesman in the maintenance sticky in the 4th gen forum.

NElsonAQuino

iTrader: (1)

oh i did, but he said that my trans was going thats why its happening.

Cdg2125

iTrader: (7)

hmm strange. did he even go in there and look?

KRRZ350

iTrader: (29)

PM dgeesaman about a rebuild, he's about 2.5 hr's from you, but his experience with 5-speed maxima trannsmissions is well worth the drive.

FDoT

Well I still havent ran the wires from mirror to the engine bay because im still hoping i find out an easier way.

but new issue, my fog light bracket for the right front foglight is broke, im not sure how, but i cant re attach the regular foglights im wondering if any one has installed a different kind of fog lights on a 95 or 96.

fabdab

I've been around for a little bit, but never posted...
got a question now,
i just installed GR2 in the max, i know they're not the best, but they don't completely suck, the car does not bounce at all, but if feels loose whenever i'm driving through curves or turns. I feel it looser in the rear end, any ideas???

Max_Out

iTrader: (4)

umm maybe they are too bouncy? thats why it feels loose in the turns? maybe, maybe not? What kind of loose are you talking about (like not all your bolts are tight and feels like its going to fall apart)?

fabdab

it feels like it moves horizontally, not too much tho, but enough for me to notice it.
my wife drove that suspension to the ground, i just installed these gr2s not too long ago, and then i started driving it, and i feel the looseness in the rear, i'll check the bolts through out the rear suspension see if any need tightning.
i just got done reading about a RSB, i don't think i will solve the problem but i think it may help...????
thanx once again

Max_Out

iTrader: (4)

it could help the problem with the body roll (which may be your problem) other would be larger wheels and low profile tires, but only after you find out if your mechanically sound.

HEIGES

ok i have a 98 maxima SE what is the best thing to do to better my susspension and help the performance overall in my car. i just dont know exactly what to get that will help the most like SFC or RSB or what?

Max_Out

iTrader: (4)

http://maxmods.dyndns.org/ this site is probably in this thread already but ill post it agian... this site IS GOLD!!!! use it, live it, love it!

I would say though get a strut bar, rear sway, and link up some tokico blues (I think those are the sturts that are close to stock just a bit stiffer.

NmexMAX

iTrader: (22)

FDoT:

Is this issue re: your foglamp bracket? Have you looked into replacing just the bracket? You might have some luck finding some used in good condition here
www.car-part.com
or a new one at a decent price here:
www.courtesynissan.com

bcmaxima96

ok so i got a 96 max wit a stick , car was drivin fine today i went to work when i went to leave work there was absolutely no resistance on my clutch pedal. The car will not go into gear , i managed to force the shift to get it into first alittle and the car was movin jus so i could park the car , someone at work said its my pressure plate . i Have no experience with clutches at all , anyone have any ideas whats wrong???

maximagasm

Interesting.............i pulled all the injectors out of my 99. 5 hanshins and a duralast like you get at autozone. Just got the car and it only has 70K miles, so apparently ALL SIX got replaced?

NmexMAX

iTrader: (22)

Are you referring to injectors or coils?

Max_Out

iTrader: (4)

I would say that your slave cylinder is bad. Easy/cheap fix. Or you could of lost all your fluid and have a leaking line... but my guess is the slave cylinder.

KRRZ350

iTrader: (29)

I'm going to get semi techinichal here. It might be your pressure plate like the guy at work said, or it might be you're clutch hydraulics like the last poster mentioned. Either way it is something to do with your 'clutch release mechanism'. You push the pedal, that makes a hydraulic 'master cylinder' get pushed inwards, which transmit's that force hydraulically to the 'slave cylinder' located on the trannsmission bellhousing, the slave cylinder pushes on the 'clutch release fork' that goes into the bellhousing, this in turn pushes on the fingers of the clutch pressure plate via the throw-out bearing, the pressure plate fingers have a fulcrum pint and pushing in on them releases pressure on the clutch disc itself.... Mainly, it comes down to 2 things, either a faulty pressure plate or other internal problems, or a problem with the hydraulic release system. Check the fluid level in the master cylinder and look for leak's in the lines, than have an assistant press the clutch pedal while you watch to see if the slave cylinder is pushing in and out on the release fork that goes into the trannsmission. Buy a haynes or chiltons before asking for clarification on anything listed above.

KRRZ350

iTrader: (29)

rockauto.com, courtesynissan.com, and ebay.com.

Rockauto is like autozone butcheaper, courtesy is the ***** of nissan dealers for oem parts, and ebay is ebay

maximagasm

Coils, sorry

FDoT

ok thanks and i swear on this site earlier i foudn a link to a sweet aftermarket and oem parts site i cannot for the life of me find it again tho.... i used to love custommaxima.com but there is nothing left for me to look for decent priced aftermarket/oem stuff....any links?!

is there anything like custommaxima anymore?

im looking for a site for a nice 95 maxima grille....and a site for black turnlights

Cdg2125

iTrader: (7)

was the last thread missed? KRRZ350 already posted what sites to use. Maxmods was a good site but it doesn't seem to work anymore.. anyone know why?

HEIGES

yeah same probblem here i was on it yesterday but today it doesnt work?

fabdab

i've been trying to check out the website but it won't even try to load up.

i'm really trying to find out about these SFC's, i have'em on my camaros and it's by far the best suspension mod. Are the SFC's weld on or bolt on??? and who makes them?

Cdg2125

iTrader: (7)

truax motorsports I believe is the name. They were weld on but I think they upgraded to having bolt holes as well. There should be a link in the GD forum. Look there.

HEIGES

ok i have another question i have a 98 maxima SE, for suspension if i get the cattman suspension package and then some springs and struts will that make a big enough differance so that i dont need to get SFC's or should i still buy them?

Cdg2125

iTrader: (7)

the cattman suspension package is a coilover system. Why would you buy springs and struts after that? SFC will help your handling no matter what you are riding on. I don't think anyone said you need to buy SFC's, they are just very beneficial to the car's handling and ride actually.

HEIGES

ok well then that just brings me to a ned perdicament, chould i get that cattman package or just go with some springs and struts if i am going to finish up with SFC's anyways?

Cdg2125

iTrader: (7)

its your call. You should do research on suspension and figure out what you want to do with suspension.

padudley

i have a 1995 maxima. the ecu is bad. the part number is A18-B42-EL1. Can i replace it with any ecu from a 1995 maxima or does it have to be the exact part number in order for the motor to run? also, does the ecu in a 95 maxima control timing and ignition order?

KRRZ350

iTrader: (29)

poooooooooops

padudley

i know it is bad because about six inches of water from hurricane katrina hit that ecu, just enough to get in the very bottom of it. now if you dont mind me asking, what exactly are all the different ecu part numbers for? why are there so many different numbers if any 95 ecu will work with any 95 maxima? Just to make sure, any ecu will run that VQ30DE engine, correct??

KRRZ350

iTrader: (29)

Glad you double checked, I don't know WHAT I was thinking when I typed that response, the beer might have influenced it a little though, sorry about that. You need to match '95, fed/cali spec emmisions and auto/manual trannsmission. Also, if your car is an automatic SE putting in a non SE '95 ecu will throw a code for the rear electronic engine mount.

padudley

ok, im glad you double checked!! the car is the SE model, but im not sure what model the new ecu that i brought came out of. The guy told me at the junkyard that it would work, he said his parts interchanger confirmed it would work for my car. Nissan told me that I need the exact part number to match in order for everything to work properly. with that electronic engine mount code being thrown, would that cause the engine to not run?? i scanned the computer for any code and it came back with the crank sensor and camshaft position sensor, replaced both.

nimmy

Ok, I posted the other day about a tranny prob, I had added fluid/it was running worse. I worked on the ac too and got it working/hadnt been running it prior. So... the verdict is, the stalling I'm experiencing/rpms going up and down where caused BECAUSE I had the ac on, BECAUSE ... maybe the alternator is going out? It has a new battery. Doesn't seem to do it when I blast the radio too much but messes with me when I roll down my windows, also the belts squeeking. Anyone have any ideas?

-Atleast I think its the belt, it does it every rotation quietly/etc. But I was noticing problems with shifting a little/power steering firming up when letting off the gas and tightening when pushing down. Lights dimming as rpms lower... etc.

If anyone can narrow it down I'd be greatful.