CS_AR

I think you are onto the situation at hand. Here's my experience listed below.

My 99 i30 came with side air bags in the front seats. The seats were worn from 230,000 miles of use so I replaced them with seats from an earlier i30 that did not come with airbags. Since there was nowhere to plug the yellow SRS plug into the replacement seats, the SRS airbag light came on as soon as I started the car. I know some Z32 owners had the same problem when they would install racing seats. The work around solution is to install a resistor in the line to "Stand In" for the seat SRS air bag unit like you see in the pictures below. For a 99 model i30 it takes a 2.2 Ohm resistor to "stand in" for the the seat SRS units. If you are into reading resistor color bands, the 4.7 Ohm as show with twisted wires below did not work in my 4th gen.

Is the unconnected wire plug under your seats yellow in color like the one in the first picture below?

Some years later my daughter was in a wreck where the front airbags were deployed. I replaced the air bags units and attempted to reset the system without success. Luckily when I purchased the steering wheel and dash airbag from a salvage yard car, I harvested the SRS control unit. It took replacing the SRS control unit in addition to the air bags to get the SRS light to clear up.

It looks to me like the car was in an accident that caused the SRS air bags to deploy. The seats may have been replaced with non-air bag seats however the person replacing the seats most likely didn't understand a resistor was required to "stand in" for the SRS seats. Also, in my case I had to replace the SRS control unit after the other components were replaced. Somehow I think the previous owner wanted the SRS light to go out so they disconnected or hacked it up.

If I were you I would find a salvage yard with a similarly equipped and year model Maxima to harvest the instrument panel to repair the broken parts. Next I would install resistors in the SRS plugs under the seats. Then finally I would harvest or locate (for future harvest) a SRS control unit in the event the SRSCU in your car has been rendered unusable.

Here's a link to a thread I posted here on this topic a few months ago when I was repairing the i30's air bags and SRSCU.

https://maxima.org/forums/4th-genera...-question.html

caseyosullivan

Thank you so much for sharing 'CS AR'! This is kind of what I was fearing might have to happen.. but at least I now know what must be done.

Is it really ok to just replace the instrument panel like that? Is the data for my ODO stored in the panel or the car's computer?

I couldn't think of any other way either though. It seems the 'AIR BAG' light's bulb-socket was ripped off of the circuit board that the speedo and ODO display box are soldered to.... I think at least... Its going to be interesting to tear apart another one of these to see what's missing. I just don't see any bulb for the 'AIR BAG' light, or any way of shielding the light generated for the numbers in the speedo cluster.

Replacing the SRSCU seems straightforward enough, but when finding one in the junk yard, how can I be sure to find one that hasn't been 'used' already? (one time use computers? smh...) I can't find any evidence of any airbags being deployed in my car other than that connector under the passenger seat missing its connection, and the circumstantial evidence of it being in a collision.

Yes those are the same (well, substantially similar) connectors. So the resistor trick won't work with the SRS in my '98 Maxima?

Lastly, can you confirm, deny, or shed any light on this? Did he mean all Infinities or just the one resembling the Maxima?

A Million Thanks!!!

dwapenyi

iTrader: (3)

I can't 100 percent say for sure, but it is very very likely that the 98 and 99 Maximas and i30s share the same airbag parts. After all, the digital odo and the more modern auto climate control system were exclusive to the 98 and 99 model years, a significant electronic change compared to the previous 95, 96, and 97 years. 97 was an oddball year because it looks just like the 98 and 99, but has mostly the 95/96 electronics.

The Wizard

iTrader: (43)

I'd like to clarify one thing/add something to your post. 97's did receive the new digital odo like 98's and 99's, but still had the older style auto climate control.

CS_AR

Here are some answers to your questions below.

Is it really ok to just replace the instrument panel like that? Is the data for my ODO stored in the panel or the car's computer?

While I have not personally changed an instrument cluster, I've seen posts/threads on this forum by people who have made the swap. I understand you will pickup the mileage from the replacement odometer. That could work to your benefit or detriment. I know in my state if a car has recorded over 100,000 miles on the odometer, odometer statements are not required. Basically all bets are off on mileage over 100,000 for registration purposes.


Replacing the SRSCU seems straightforward enough, but when finding one in the junk yard, how can I be sure to find one that hasn't been 'used' already? (one time use computers? smh...) I can't find any evidence of any airbags being deployed in my car other than that connector under the passenger seat missing its connection, and the circumstantial evidence of it being in a collision.

When I bought my replacement controller and air bags from an i30 at the salvage yard, the car looked like it had never been in an accident. However, the SRSCU's log indicated there had been an air bag deployment in the past. It worked fine. Though it has an entry for a sensor issue in the log, I think it depends on the severity of the accident or connection break for a controller to be rendered unusable.

Yes those are the same (well, substantially similar) connectors. So the resistor trick won't work with the SRS in my '98 Maxima?

If the connectors are YELLOW (to indicate SRS) like the ones in the picture, I would try a 2.2 Ohm resistor to bridge the connection. Hook up the resistors before you install the new SRSCU. As a second check, if you see a 98 model Infiniti or Maxima in the salvage yard with SRS seats, you can take an Ohm meter and measure the unit's resistance to verify it is also 2.2 Ohms. This only works on seat units that have not been deployed.

ALWAYS DISCONNECT THE BATTERY WHEN WORKING WITH ANY SRS COMPONENTS.

Lastly, can you confirm, deny, or shed any light on this? Did he mean all Infinities or just the one resembling the Maxima?

The I've been able to move ECUs between a 99 model Infiniti I30 and a 99 Maxima GLE. So I don't see why an SRSCU would be any different. The thing I would be looking for to pull a SRSCU from a model with a similar SRS wiring harness. Bridging in a resistor to "Stand In" for a seat unit is easy if your car uses that type of wiring harness.

NOTE: Pick and Pull usually gives a warranty and will issue a credit for any parts that "do not work".

dwapenyi

iTrader: (3)

Uhhhhhhhhh, nope Not only were the 97 not digital odo, but the fuel gage faced the same way as the temp gage, in a non-symmetrical fashion just like the 95/96 years. The digital odo debuted in the 98 and got a revised, symmetrical temp and fuel gage which continued onward through newer generations.

The Wizard

iTrader: (43)

I stand corrected. You were right for once. LOL

MarineDad

the radiator hose blew off my 96 maxima when my son was driving it on the highway the other day. Got it towed back to the house, but now it won't start... replaced all the fluids and topped off the oil. when i try to start it, it sounds like something is "dragging" down the starter and it won't start...


my son couldn't tell me if it overheated before it died or not...i'm afraid it probably did...

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

Just the hose bursting shouldn't create any starting problems. If it was the upper radiator hose, that could have sprayed the starter. The starter should be sealed to water, but it's possible the antifreeze leaked into the starter.

If the engine overheated, which I would think it did, it all depends on how long the car was driven. Usually the problems from overheating don't interfere with cranking.

I suspect that the starter has probably taken a dump on you, just a case of unfortunate timing. If the planetary gear set in the starter as run out of grease and is binding (common occurrence - crappy design in my opinion), it will test good on a no-load test as done at the auto stores. But it will probably be noisier that normal.

MarineDad

It was the the bottom radiator hose that came off... i am hoping you are correct about the starter though... the car has been getting increasingly hard to start recently... My fear is that it was still running for a while after it overheated and damagaed the head or blew the head gasket...

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

The only way to realistically tell if the engine was damaged would be to start the car. You could try doing a compression test, but if the starter is spinning slower than it should, the compression readings will probably be inaccurate.

If the engine does not crank over fast enough (350 rpm?), the crankshaft position sensor does not create a powerful enough signal for the car's computer (ECU) to recognize that the engine is turning over and so the engine doesn't start.

When buying a starter, many members here have bought brand new starters that are made in China. It has not been a happy experience this these pieces of ****. The NAPA parts stores seem to have the best rebuilt starters, but you could still have problems with those. A lot of people have bad luck with Autozone rebuilt starters. It appears to depend on which side of the bed you up from that morning.

caseyosullivan

In the 98 Maxima, is the Diagnosis Sensor Unit the same thing (or inside of) the SRSCU located below the center console?

My SRS light is on the entire time my car is. I've had no luck using the 'SRS light reset procedure' using the driver side door switch. I've tried with one door and both doors open, and then replaced the switch and tried again. The light the just stays on constantly and never flashes. I checked for continuity using the RS section of the repair guide, and there didn't seem to be any shorts. It then recommended I replace the DSU. I purchased a CONSULT online and it's on the way now.

If my DSU is bad, can the CONSULT still get a reading?

CS_AR

Here's a picture of a DSU from a 5th gen below. They all look similar. I use the term SRSCU to mean this box that is under the center console.

I couldn't get the light to go off until I replaced this unit. The wreck must have fried the unit.



Can you provide a link to the Consult tool that you purchased online?

Did you see the screen shots of Nissan Data Scan I that I posted in the following thread. Consult should provide similar diagnostic readings.

https://maxima.org/forums/4th-genera...-question.html

In that thread I show how the codes appear for a damaged DSU, and how the codes look after I replaced the unit.

Do you have the Security Torx tool required to remove the DSU?

.

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

There is only one air bag module in the car and it is under the center console at the end towards the back seat. Nissan will use different names for the same thing in the documentation. It does confuse people.

In regards to CONSULT being able to "read" the module, It depends on what is wrong with it. It will probably give a reading as long as it is not totally dead.

And for what it's worth, there are 2 possible modules that could be used in the car. If you have side airbags in the seats, the air bag module is one type and has 2 wire harness connectors on it. If the car doesn't have the side air bags, then a different module is used that has only one wire harness connector.

If you were to use the side air bag module in a car that does not have side air bags, the air bag light would be on and you will never get it to go off.

Another problem that cars with side air bags have is the the wire harness under the passenger seat is a little short and pulls on the connection, which sometimes causes the light to come on.

CS_AR

Does the seat's side airbag cover appear to be intact? Can the yellow plug under the seat be plugged into the current seat?

If the airbag has been deployed without the SRS side seat unit being replaced, the light will stay on until the circuit receives the proper resistance from that sensor connection or another good working seat airbag unit is installed.

Also, while I cannot remember the year when it changed, your car may have come with charged seatbelts. There is an explosive charge that occurs when the car is in a wreck to tighten the seat belts. If belts were used from a non-explosive charge type model, that does not supply the proper line resistance to the control unit, the light will stay on.

I purchased some non-charged belts from a Junk Yard car that had been installed into a model that required charged belts. I saw the line plugs were unplugged when I pulled the belts thinking it must not have mattered. It does. I had to go back and get belts from a charged belt car to resolve the issue.

It doesn't require Consult to resolve the SRS light issue. However, it helps if you already have it. Basically you need to check the sensor plugs (e.g. seats, belts, dash bags) for a good working unit or to provide the sensor with proper resistance. I've read where a someone had a seat belt sensor connection that worked loose and would trip the airbag light.

caseyosullivan

CONSULT tool I bought

Yeah I saw your thread, that's what inspired me to buy it. And thanks for the reminder! It's a Security T50 if i remember right, I'll check to see if I have one at work, I don't think i do at home.

Neither of my seats have covers for the side airbags, and the Maxima I found in the yard that i got parts from (exact replica of mine, down to color) had the exact same situation with the empty connector on the passenger seat and no covers for the side airbags anywhere visible on the seats. That car was in great condition, everything inside the cabin looked original and un-tampered with; no signs of ever being in a wreck. I've been leaning towards the possibility I don't have side airbags. Since I can't get the Self Diagnosis without CONSULT to work: I bought one!

I'll look into the possibility of charged seat belts having been deployed, great tip!

caseyosullivan

So my CONSULT finally got here yesterday, however I've been a little preoccupied with my new problem to finish working on the SRS system.

This car does not like to start below 20-25F. When I turn the key to 'start', I hear no click, no life from the starter at all. It's only when I let it bounce to the 'ON' and push it back to 'start' a few times, does my car finally crank. As soon as it cranks, it starts, no problems.

When it gets too cold however, I could bounce it from 'ON' to 'start' all day and it would never crank. In that scenario, it will occasionally make a weak click sound at the starter, but never crank.

I took my starter (and solenoid) out of the car and they tested good. Just to be sure it wasn't the starter itself (I really thought it was) I bought another one and installed it, but it changed nothing, so I returned it.

Note that the battery was also taken to AutoZone for a test/charge immediately prior to this work. It was slightly weak when it went in, probably due to several long starting attempts, but fully charged at the moment. 12.61v

Wires from battery terminals (which are new and pristine) have no obvious signs of damage/wear, but the insulation is all very brittle and it is all ~17 years old. Same goes for applicable connectors/harnesses leading to starter and ignition switch.

I read something about inhibitor and starter relays being involved in starting the car, but am currently unsure about their exact functions, locations, or conditions. I'm suspecting them right now, but am thinking it could also be the ignition switch. The problem actually started out happening only once and while a few months ago, seemingly getting harder to start over time and as temperature decreases. If it is warm, it starts in under a few tries.

Ideas where to poke my multimeter or other tests to try? Voltage drop test is on my to-do list, but I figured I'd post where I'm at now to see if I'm on the right track.

Any help is greatly appreciated!!!

CS_AR

It sounds like the ignition switch. Check out this video and note the shim comment.

1996maxgxe

Good Day Gentlemen: First Timer Here. Bought 1996 Maxima GXE back in 1998. Great car. Want it to last forever. Currently struggling with a vexing problem:
March 2014 replaced driver CV Axle.
Around September 2014 started to feel a shimmy on turn/accelerate.
Passenger boot was torn but no clicking yet so kept driving.
Gradually got worse. 2 weeks ago had it checked again.
Ended up replacing rack and pinion, and tie rods.
Then replaced passenger CV Axle.
Also replaced front struts (Monroe Quick Struts).
Just had it aligned today.
BUT THE SHIMMY IS STILL THERE. When accelerate from 20 - 35 mph.
Could new CV Axles be bad? What else could it be? All thoughts appreciated.

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

Check the bushings on the LCA's, especially the passenger side. If you have a power steering fluid leak, it eats the bushings.

1996maxgxe

Will do. If only the passenger Lower Control Arm bushing is bad, should both LCA's be changed out together or just the one?

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

Just replace the bad parts. You can replace just the bushings if you want, but it is a little on the difficult side. Whether you replace the whole arm assy or just the bushings depends on your skill level.

1996maxgxe

Had the lower control arms checked by 2 mechanics. Both said the LCA's look fine. Is it possible the new re-manufactured CV Axle itself is bad? Does that happen often? Also, I am reading that some Maximas have non-slip differrential and need specific CV Axle part numbers. TRANSMISSION CODE on right side fire wall plate reads: RE4F04A. Which passenger CV Axle part number should it be?

uttadms31

Hello all, had two questions about strut upper bearings. I did read up on them in other threads. I believe mine are shot since I'm getting a creaking noise at idle and slow speeds when turning the steering wheel. I'm at 235k and have replaced front struts a couple times, strut mounts once, but never the strut bearings (I didn't know years ago it was necessary). I only have about 40k on my current struts/mounts so I didn't want to replace them now, but as for the bearings...can I wait a couple years or so to replace them next time I do my struts? (i.e. is all I'm facing that creaking sound and slight erratic steering at times at higher speeds? - I can live with that for now). Also, is spraying WD-40 in from above the strut tower OK, or is it chemically bad for the strut components there? Thanks

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

RE4F04A is an automatic transmission without the LSD (Limited Slip Differential). So you want the axle for auto trans non-limited slip. I'm a fan of the Napa Auto Parts axles, the new ones, not the rebuilts. If you are looking for the Nissan part number, I don't know what the part number would be.

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

The strut bearing holds the top of the strut in position, so if it is wearing out/going bad, then the strut has moved and this affects the wheel alignment. Tire wear and maybe vibrations can occur.

One thing to look for is to look at the nut that holds the top of the strut in the bearing. It should be dead center in the opening. If not, you have lots of play already. When the strut bearings wore out on my 97, I could grab the fender and push/shake the car side to side and watch the nut move in the opening. If you try this, make sure the hood struts are good and won't let the hood fall and chop your fingers off!

Could you put off replacement for a couple of years? I really don't know but I doubt it, especially if you live in the snow/salt belt. A worn bearing will only get worse.

Lastly, WD40 is far from the best stuff to use. It is probably the worst. WD40 is intended to break up corrosion. It is all chemicals and dissolves oil before it evaporates. It IS NOT a lubricant. There is Liquid Wrench that works like WD40 but has a light lubricant in it. But it is a very light lubricant and won't hold up to the forces involved.

My advice is to replace those strut bearings as soon as you can.

uttadms31

Thanks man, I checked out what you recommended. My passengers side looks perfectly fine. My drivers side nut is in fact dead center in the middle, but there is a little play and creaking sound when I push/shake the fender around. There's no sound nor signs of strut wear when I push down on it though (the strut's not too old even though the boot's ripped a bit). While the nut's still dead center am I not facing alignment issues? I may wait to get it fixed until when the nut's not in the middle anymore. The bearing has probably been bad for a while but my tires are showing no uneven wear.

Would re-torqueing the nut or 3 mount bolts at the top help at all? It looks like the nut on the drivers side is tighter than passengers side since there's a few more threads visible above the nut. Thanks

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

If the nut seems to be dead center, then alignment probably isn't affected (yet). When you shake the car, there should not be any movement, so you have verified that the one strut bearing is bad. Re-torquing the nuts/bolts won't do anything, so save your energy.

Since you don't intend to fix this right away, just keep an eye on it. Do the shake test once in a while and keep an eye on the tire for wear. My advice is to fix it now, but I know you can milk it for a while.

1996maxgxe

UPDATE... Mystery Solved (I hope). A telltale RATTLE developed in the upper right strut. This was a newly installed Monroe Econo-Matic Complete Strut Assembly. It got worse very quickly. Luckily I had kept the old struts and swapped them back out. Voila! Rattle gone! Shimmy gone! Looks like it was a bad part. Going to stick with the old struts for now. I do have 3 other questions about the car and will start a new heading for them. Can't thank you enough for your help.

1996maxgxe

1996 Maxima GXE, 160k miles.
Leaking oil --- 2 opinions. One mechanic says oil switch and both oil pan gaskets. Second mechanic says it is coming from higher up on the front of the engine (facing passenger wheel). There is a U channel behind the belt where the engine blocks meet. He suggests LUCAS OIL TREATMENT. If that doesn't work, some type of sealant from the outside when the engine is cold. Worst case, an engine rebuild? U channel leak is scaring me. Does LUCAS or external sealant work? How quickly do such leaks get worse? How much does an engine rebuild cost?

Power Steering Fluid Leak --- Again 2 opinions. One mechanic says it is the hoses only. Second mechanic says it is the pump itself. Should the hoses be changed out anyway when changing the pump?

Engine Mounts --- What are the symptoms that tell you... OK, it is now time to change them out?

CS_AR

Most important question: Do you plan to do the repairs yourself? In most cases the money you will save on labor will allow you to purchase the tools to DIY. Maxima's use a standard set of metric tool sizes (8mm, 10mm, 12,mm and 14mm) to do most things under the hood.


Based on vehicle age, leaking Valve Cover gaskets can be normal. A good midlife maintenance refresh can be used to address leaking valve covers. If you do have a leaking oil pressure switch, it is not an expensive item to replace.

I had to replace the o-ring on the Camshaft Position Sensor because it was leaking oil on my I30 at roughly 225,000 miles. It is not an expensive item.

The U-shaped channel sounds like the half moon gasket. I like to replace front and rear half moons as part of a midlife maintenance refresh. At 160,000 miles your engine is at midlife. A VQ30DE with proper care will run to 400,000 miles. There is no point in rebuilding your engine at this point. I'll post some pictures of the things I changed as part of a midlife maintenance refresh.

I like to buy a Maxima or I30 at roughly 150,000 miles. Then I will spend roughly $700 on parts to give them a good midlife maintenance refresh that makes them almost like a new car then drive them for another 150,000 miles. I'm on my 3rd 4th gen now.

I had to replace the low pressure Power Steering hose because it was leaking at the reservoir. There was also an elbow hose that I replaced. Those hoses are a dealer item. Courtesy Nissan http://www.courtesyparts.com/ usually has a good price.

Checking for an example. You can usually see broken rubber inside a broken mount. Also, you can feel excess motor movement and sometimes hear noise when you accelerate and decelerate.

Here's a video for an 04 Maxima to demonstrate a broken mount.



Worn half-moon seal.



Half-moon seal after replacement.



Blue FelPro Valve Cover Gasket



Oil Pressure Switch Location

caseyosullivan

I own a '98 Maxima and purchased the CONSULT tool to try and get a code reading telling me which air bag module(s) might have been tripped or gone bad causing my 'AIR BAG' light to be on.

It came with ConZult free version, and I also downloaded ECUtalk, but when I connect to the car it gives me error messages (windows error 5) and doesn't ever seem to really connect. In fact it behaves the same whether the car is on or off, so i'm pretty sure its not connecting.

Is the 14-pin connector supposed to only have 5 wires going into it?

Previous owners were definitely messin around down there, theres a killswitch bypassing the fuse for the wipers.... wtf? I'd call that laziness, but they put some work in trying to avoid replacing a fuse.

Anything else you think I may be missing in getting the CONSULT to work?
This is the one i bought.

Note that I was also unable to get the 'diagnostics mode' to work using the door switch (i tried both doors open too), I'm thinking about just buying a new SRS ECU and praying it fixes things, but I really need to avoid wasting money if that isn't the problem.

Thank you all so much for the help!

CS_AR

I've found ECUTalk is the easiest to get running. Then once I get ECUTalk running I use NDS1 to do more indepth diagnostics like consult. I remember using ConZult some years ago..

Items to check before you get started.

FTDI driver installation

http://www.ftdichip.com/Drivers/VCP.htm

Installation Guide

http://www.ftdichip.com/Support/Docu...tallGuides.htm

Check to see that the computer is communicating with the consult port on the FTDI COM port before you start ECUTalk. Then when you start ECUTalk you will need to indicate the COM port that is registered to the FTDI cable in the port list. I usually setup the COM port to be 03 for convenience. Which OS are you using?

After the FTDI driver installation is successful and you are communicating on a COM port, you might want to check out the following video.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V-1nmIqUYjQ

ECUTalk does not support AirBag diagnostics, but it is good to use for verifying your computer is communicating with the ECU.

If you cant get diagnostics mode to work, there is a good chance the controller is fried. Mine was fried and I was glad I purchased the matching controller when I got the airbag units.

Did you look to see if wires for charged seat belts are present? If the belts or another sensor is open, you may not be able to switch between modes. I know you read about my misfortune on buying non-charged belts for a charged type vehicle.

Here's a thread on the seat belt difference.

https://maxima.org/forums/4th-genera...able-part.html

uttadms31

As for engine oil additives I'd highly recommend LiquiMoly Motor Oil Saver: http://www.amazon.com/Liqui-Moly-202.../dp/B00CPL8WY8 It's one of the few additives recommended on the BobIsTheOilGuy forum; Lucas has gotten more mixed reviews. As for the LiquiMoly, after 1k miles it has slowed my leak from 2 drops/night to 1 drop every 2-3 days. I'm guessing its usefulness depends on which seal/gasket is leaking on you.

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

If you/the mechanics are sure that the oil leak is not the valve cover gaskets, then it it probably the o-ring that seals the high pressure oil gallery for the oil pressure switch where the gallery exits the engine block and enters the upper oil pan gallery right above the pressure switch.

As for the power steering, the power steering pumps do not fail or leak that often and get replaced erroneously. The track record for Nissan power steering hoses is, however, pretty dismal. I'd replace just the hoses and see what happens.

1996maxgxe

Wow. Thanks for the wealth of information and photos. I do the simpler work myself and have to rely on others for the rest.

What is involved in a midlife maintenance refresh?
Is the $700 in parts for engine only or the whole car?
Do internal or external sealants work with the half moon gaskets?
How many labor hours is the half moons and how difficult a job?
Do half moon leaks progress slowly or do they go suddenly?

Recent History:
Changed Rack and Pinion.
Changed Both CV Axles.
Changed Front Struts (but one was defective so I put old ones back in).

Known Issues:
Power Steering Leak (will check hoses per your recommendation).
Oil Leak: Probably Half Moon + oil switch + oil pan gaskets.
Engine Mounts (TBD)
Plus little things like air bag light, bouncing tachometer etc.

Other than that, she’s in great shape

Oh… And is there a good way to gauge tranny health? We drive very conservatively but it would be nice to know what shape it is in.


Thanks again!

CS_AR

What is involved in a midlife maintenance refresh?

Usually I install new struts/bushings, gaskets, clean EGR pipe, Copper NGK v-power plugs, vacuum hoses, clean the Crankshaft and Camshaft Position Sensors, and new O2 sensors. The next time I remove the intake plenum to do a MLM refresh, I will buy a $34 kit refurb kit and replace the injector o-rings and pintle caps.

Is the $700 in parts for engine only or the whole car? A mix of suspension and engine with me doing the labor. Basically it is taking care of the maintenance items that should have have started at 100,000 miles that are usually overdue when I purchase a 4th gen with 150,000 miles on it.

Do internal or external sealants work with the half moon gaskets? I don't think an external sealer will last very long. Internal sealers are usually oils with esters/conditioners that cause an old gasket or seal to be softened and expand.

How many labor hours is the half moons and how difficult a job? It is not difficult but not a small job. The Field Service Manual (FSM) recommends the Upper Oil Pan be removed to replace the half moons. How equipped are you on tools? Do you have a garage to work in?

Do half moon leaks progress slowly or do they go suddenly? That will depend on the car and the situation.

Recent History:
Changed Rack and Pinion.
Changed Both CV Axles.
Changed Front Struts (but one was defective so I put old ones back in).

Known Issues:
Power Steering Leak (will check hoses per your recommendation).
Oil Leak: Probably Half Moon + oil switch + oil pan gaskets.
Engine Mounts (TBD)
Plus little things like air bag light, bouncing tachometer etc.

I've seen people on here use a florescent "Tracer Dye" that is normally used as an A/C compressor leak detector in engine oil to help find the source of an oil leak. The o-rings DennisMik pointed out are exposed when the Upper Oil Pan is removed for installing new half moons.

RusteckB

does anyone know what this component is mounted on the plastic panel under the steering wheel. when i bought my maxima it was in pieces so i picked on up at a junk yard, but dont wanna install it if its car alarm related. (i dont have a key faub)

Fakie J Farkerton

iTrader: (51)

Door chime. Let you know when a door is ajar with keys in or lights left on.

RusteckB

if the radio looses presets and the clock resets when the key is removed and the power antenna is bad could this be the cause?
i know what fuses i have to check if it isn't the cause but from what i was reading it didn't really explain it (at least how i could understand)

(im also tryin to get my post count up, and my maxima has a few issues)