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NOOBIES: "I AM NEW HERE BUT HAVE A QUESTION" thread. Read FIRST post BEFORE posting!

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Old 08-11-2016, 08:02 PM   #9601
 
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1996 MAXIMA GXE - CHANGED REAR CALIPERS. BLED BRAKES. PEDAL STILL MUSHY.
Changed front pads and flushed brake fluid in January 2016. Brakes seemed to work great after that. Brake light came on in July 2016. Topped it off. Level went down again. Found brake fluid leak in rear calipers. Changed them both out with REMAN WEAREVERs from Advance Auto. Bled the brakes [Driver Front / Passenger Rear / Passenger Front / Driver Rear] but the pedal was low and mushy. Found that both new calipers were leaking around the piston seals. So I replaced both rears AGAIN with Cardones from NAPA. Bled brakes again. But they are still very mushy. I am testing the brakes while the car is still up on 4 jacks stands and the engine running. That saves me putting the wheels back on and taking them off over and over.
1- Is that a valid test of the brake pedal?
2- Why can't I seem to get the mushiness out of it?
3- Is something else going on here?
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Old 08-11-2016, 08:54 PM   #9602
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1996 MAXIMA GXE - CHANGED REAR CALIPERS. BLED BRAKES. PEDAL STILL MUSHY.
Changed front pads and flushed brake fluid in January 2016. Brakes seemed to work great after that. Brake light came on in July 2016. Topped it off. Level went down again. Found brake fluid leak in rear calipers. Changed them both out with REMAN WEAREVERs from Advance Auto. Bled the brakes [Driver Front / Passenger Rear / Passenger Front / Driver Rear] but the pedal was low and mushy. Found that both new calipers were leaking around the piston seals. So I replaced both rears AGAIN with Cardones from NAPA. Bled brakes again. But they are still very mushy. I am testing the brakes while the car is still up on 4 jacks stands and the engine running. That saves me putting the wheels back on and taking them off over and over.
1- Is that a valid test of the brake pedal?
2- Why can't I seem to get the mushiness out of it?
3- Is something else going on here?
Having the car up in the air or on the ground, engine running or engine off is the same.

If there is a mushiness, there is either air in the system or the master cylinder seals are leaking. If you ran the master cylinder out of fluid, there is air trapped in there and the master cylinder needs to be bled as a separate process performed before bleeding the lines to the wheel cylinders.

As for the sequence of bleeding the wheel cylinders, Nissan recommends a sequence the is different from what you did. Personally, I don't think it matters all that much, but maybe in this case it does. the Nissan sequence is Right rear brake, Left front brake, Left rear brake, Right front brake.

Brakes chapter of service manual - http://boredmder.com/FSMs/Nissan/Maxima/1996/BR.pdf
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Old 09-02-2016, 08:08 AM   #9603
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Installing an Avital 2101L Keyless entry on a 97 Max GXE. I'm having trouble locate the dome light circuit/wire for the dome light supervision on the keyless entry.

From what I've searched online, both in this forum, and outside, I'm unable to find information on this issue. I've also looked into the FSM in the EL section and couldn't find it in the Interior Lamp section. Hoping that someone who has installed an aftermarket keyless entry to help here.

Thanks,

Edit: Some people recommend that I use the door trigger instead, but I don't quite understand the reasoning behind this. If all else fails I'll just do the keyless without the domelight supervision (althought it would be a nice thing to have on the car).

Edit 2: For those that are having similar issue as mine. I have circumvented (more like macgyvered) this issue by using the door lock. Not as intuitive but if you notice, the dome light turns on when you unlock the driver's side door.

STILL LOOKING FOR OTHER SUGGESTIONS IF you have better advice

Last edited by Mrazouan; 09-02-2016 at 10:36 AM.
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Old 09-02-2016, 11:36 AM   #9604
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Installing an Avital 2101L Keyless entry on a 97 Max GXE. I'm having trouble locate the dome light circuit/wire for the dome light supervision on the keyless entry.

From what I've searched online, both in this forum, and outside, I'm unable to find information on this issue. I've also looked into the FSM in the EL section and couldn't find it in the Interior Lamp section. Hoping that someone who has installed an aftermarket keyless entry to help here.

Thanks,

Edit: Some people recommend that I use the door trigger instead, but I don't quite understand the reasoning behind this. If all else fails I'll just do the keyless without the domelight supervision (althought it would be a nice thing to have on the car).

Edit 2: For those that are having similar issue as mine. I have circumvented (more like macgyvered) this issue by using the door lock. Not as intuitive but if you notice, the dome light turns on when you unlock the driver's side door.

STILL LOOKING FOR OTHER SUGGESTIONS IF you have better advice
In the Nissan FSM, Nissan calls it the "Interior Lamp" just to make it harder to find. The dome lamp can be found listed under Interior lamp Control on page 292.

Here is a link the section EL in case you need it:
http://boredmder.com/FSMs/Nissan/Maxima/1997/EL.pdf

What you will see is that like most light bulbs in the car, it has 12 volts on it all the time. Turning the lamp on is done by putting ground to the lamp.

The dome light is connected to the BCM, which turns the lamp on and off for what ever reason. In the case of the door locks, the lock communicated to the BCM and the BCM turns on the dome light.

Hope this helps you.
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Old 09-02-2016, 10:21 PM   #9605
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In the Nissan FSM, Nissan calls it the "Interior Lamp" just to make it harder to find. The dome lamp can be found listed under Interior lamp Control on page 292.

Here is a link the section EL in case you need it:
http://boredmder.com/FSMs/Nissan/Maxima/1997/EL.pdf

What you will see is that like most light bulbs in the car, it has 12 volts on it all the time. Turning the lamp on is done by putting ground to the lamp.

The dome light is connected to the BCM, which turns the lamp on and off for what ever reason. In the case of the door locks, the lock communicated to the BCM and the BCM turns on the dome light.

Hope this helps you.
Hello Dennis, sorry to bother you again. I can't seem to find the parking light wire for the maxima. Looking online and confirmed on the EL section that the wire is R/G and am wondering if it's acceptable to link it out of the fuse box.
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Old 09-03-2016, 12:40 AM   #9606
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Hello Dennis, sorry to bother you again. I can't seem to find the parking light wire for the maxima. Looking online and confirmed on the EL section that the wire is R/G and am wondering if it's acceptable to link it out of the fuse box.
That wire would be OK. There are several possibilities and the only difference is which one do you feel is easier to get to.
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Old 09-03-2016, 04:27 PM   #9607
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That wire would be OK. There are several possibilities and the only difference is which one do you feel is easier to get to.
Ended up going with the wire that connects to the harness on the steering column; R/G. Now dealing with trunk release and getting a relay on it.
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Old 09-03-2016, 04:51 PM   #9608
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Ended up going with the wire that connects to the harness on the steering column; R/G. Now dealing with trunk release and getting a relay on it.
If the car was built with the Nissan keyless entry where you have the keychain remote, then there is a relay all ready installed for that. See page 309 in the EL section for part location, page 249 for schematic.
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Old 09-05-2016, 05:08 PM   #9609
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Greddy muffler

Hi everyone can any tell me if the Greddy revolution RS universal exhaust muffler will bit and sound well on my 01 Nissan Maxima SE
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Old 09-05-2016, 07:01 PM   #9610
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Your 97 Nissan requires a double pulse to unlock. Most Avitals come default sending a single pulse to unlock. You need to reprogram the Avital for that feature.
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Old 09-10-2016, 12:58 PM   #9611
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I need help PLEASE...96 Maxims won't start. I can turn the key to add and hear the fuel pump engage but when you finish turning the starter isn't engaging. I got a 12v push button to bypass everything but going from positive on the battery to switch and then from solenoid to switch only makes a spinning noise. Thanks
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Old 09-10-2016, 01:17 PM   #9612
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I need help PLEASE...96 Maxims won't start. I can turn the key to add and hear the fuel pump engage but when you finish turning the starter isn't engaging. I got a 12v push button to bypass everything but going from positive on the battery to switch and then from solenoid to switch only makes a spinning noise. Thanks
Iirc there's one more ground you'll need to connect attached to the starter.
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Old 09-10-2016, 03:21 PM   #9613
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I need help PLEASE...96 Maxims won't start. I can turn the key to add and hear the fuel pump engage but when you finish turning the starter isn't engaging. I got a 12v push button to bypass everything but going from positive on the battery to switch and then from solenoid to switch only makes a spinning noise. Thanks
I don't really understand what you did, but here is a thread for how to diagnose a problem like yours.

https://maxima.org/forums/5th-genera...rt-thread.html
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Old 09-12-2016, 09:57 PM   #9614
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Hey guys, just picked up a 99 Max GLE with 90k miles on it. Love the car, however not long after changing the starter, it began throwing the dreaded P1320. I also will occasionally get a misfire that goes away quickly when I crank it up now. Any help guys?
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Old 09-13-2016, 09:51 AM   #9615
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Hey guys, just picked up a 99 Max GLE with 90k miles on it. Love the car, however not long after changing the starter, it began throwing the dreaded P1320. I also will occasionally get a misfire that goes away quickly when I crank it up now. Any help guys?
This is a tough code to resolve. A lot of times people have to replace all the ignition coils, which is kind of expensive. Sometimes it is the crankshaft sensor (POS) on the flywheel. The service manual lists other things as well, but the 2 I mentioned are the most likely.

From the service manual:

Power transistor unit built into ignition coil
Crankshaft position sensor (REF)
Crankshaft position sensor (REF) circuit
Condenser
Harness or connectors (The ignition primary circuit is open or shorted.)

the list is not in any kind of order.

Link to the service manual - http://boredmder.com/FSMs/Nissan/Maxima/1999/

see page 415 in section EC.
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Old 10-20-2016, 11:22 AM   #9616
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Hi, my '98 Marlboro edition has 200 k miles, and runs like a champ except for this weird, nonsensical issue. If I run my A/C I notice chugging. Not so much at the time I run it, but for days after without running the A/C. It took a while for me to figure out why my car would chug, stutter, run a little rough, or "miss," slightly, but enough to activate the check engine light. My boyfriend thinks I am crazy, and does not understand why I will not run it when it is HOT outside. The check engine light goes off after driving it long enough to reset (30 nonstop miles, or a couple of freeway trips equating to 30 miles each, approx.).
I know I am not crazy, but can any one explain, or give reason to why this happens? Is it just coincidence? I had a bad coil, but replaced it, but am fearful of running the A/C, because my car is running so well and smooth. Any feedback is appreciated.
Thanks
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Old 10-21-2016, 07:54 AM   #9617
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Hi, my '98 Marlboro edition has 200 k miles, and runs like a champ except for this weird, nonsensical issue. If I run my A/C I notice chugging. Not so much at the time I run it, but for days after without running the A/C. It took a while for me to figure out why my car would chug, stutter, run a little rough, or "miss," slightly, but enough to activate the check engine light. My boyfriend thinks I am crazy, and does not understand why I will not run it when it is HOT outside. The check engine light goes off after driving it long enough to reset (30 nonstop miles, or a couple of freeway trips equating to 30 miles each, approx.).
I know I am not crazy, but can any one explain, or give reason to why this happens? Is it just coincidence? I had a bad coil, but replaced it, but am fearful of running the A/C, because my car is running so well and smooth. Any feedback is appreciated.
Thanks
I don't really know what the problem is, but since the check engine light is coming on, stop by and auto parts store when the light is on and ask them to read the codes. It is a free service, but not in California and Maine where it is illegal.

The codes will gvie us a clue.
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Old 10-21-2016, 07:10 PM   #9618
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I don't really know what the problem is, but. . . . read the codes. It is a free service, but not in California and Maine where it is illegal. The codes will gvie us a clue.
I, do live in CA, but I am fortunate enough to obtain trouble codes Number 5 valve was bad, or missing, meaning the coil(s) and plugs needed replacing. This is when I first purchased the car, and trusting the seller went to have it "smogged," (his responsibility, but blah blah). Coils are expensive! So, I just replaced the plugs to satisfy the DMV, and everything was copasetic...The car ran fine, until dun, dun, dun using the A/C. I am not one to accept an ill performing vehicle (even in its slightest), when it is fixable (preferably, a "do-it-yourself," do it right, save a lot of cash job).

Running the trouble codes, again the knock sensor is what came up, but amazingly, ta-dah, ever since I made the A/C determination, and do not use it, ever, changed the one bad coil the service engine light has not come on, and does not "chug." It is in the 90's here in So. Cal, and is hard to resist turning on the A/C.
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Old 10-21-2016, 09:53 PM   #9619
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Oh, one more question, and do not think I am a complete moron for asking. Apparently, the Marlboro editions are fully equipped, but I do not know what the three buttons do on the driver side sun visor, or the intended function. Does anyone know what those buttons do?
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Old 10-22-2016, 12:07 AM   #9620
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Oh, one more question, and do not think I am a complete moron for asking. Apparently, the Marlboro editions are fully equipped, but I do not know what the three buttons do on the driver side sun visor, or the intended function. Does anyone know what those buttons do?
I've never seen a Marlboro edition--did it come with a cigarette lighter?

The 3 buttons are called Homelink. You can program them to open 3 different garage doors or remote gates. You can also program them to operate various modules that turn on your porch lights, coffee maker, or what have you.

Last edited by Junebug1701; 10-22-2016 at 12:10 AM.
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Old 10-22-2016, 04:14 AM   #9621
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Oh, one more question, and do not think I am a complete moron for asking. Apparently, the Marlboro editions are fully equipped, but I do not know what the three buttons do on the driver side sun visor, or the intended function. Does anyone know what those buttons do?
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The 3 buttons are called Homelink. You can program them to open 3 different garage doors or remote gates. You can also program them to operate various modules that turn on your porch lights, coffee maker, or what have you.
+1 on Homelink buttons. But the Homelink protocol has changed over time - at least twice - and they won't work with today's Homelink openers. Your car isn't compatible with a garage door opener made after something like 2000.
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Old 10-27-2016, 01:44 PM   #9622
 
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1996 Maxima GXE intermittently loses power and stalls. Seems to work for a day or so, then starts stalling. Once it starts, it keeps stalling. It is not throwing any codes. Cleaned out IACV valve. Problem persisted. Then I noticed a black hose coming up from somewhere low and U turning right by the transmission dip stick, and pointing back down. But it goes nowhere. In other words, it is just sitting there open. Is that normal or is this a broken vacuum hose of some kind?
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Old 10-27-2016, 01:45 PM   #9623
 
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More information. When it stalls it sometimes puts out very smelly exhaust.
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Old 10-27-2016, 09:48 PM   #9624
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1996 Maxima GXE intermittently loses power and stalls. Seems to work for a day or so, then starts stalling. Once it starts, it keeps stalling. It is not throwing any codes. Cleaned out IACV valve. Problem persisted. Then I noticed a black hose coming up from somewhere low and U turning right by the transmission dip stick, and pointing back down. But it goes nowhere. In other words, it is just sitting there open. Is that normal or is this a broken vacuum hose of some kind?
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More information. When it stalls it sometimes puts out very smelly exhaust.
I'll start with the easy part - the hose. It is the auto transmission breather hose. Not connected to anything is the way it should be.

The stalling part is more difficult. It sounds like a bad MAF sensor. The bad news is the there are no tests that you can do for this. It is a gut feeling/guesswork thing. You can try unplugging the MAF and the engine should start and idle. but you can't drive the car like this because when you put the car in gear, the engine will die.
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Old 10-29-2016, 08:20 AM   #9625
 
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Thanks DennisMik. You put my mind at ease with the breather hose.
The MAF voltage between pin 1 and ground reads as follows:
Ignition ON. Engine OFF --- 0.3V (spec is less than 1.0V)
Engine Idling --- 1.3V (spec is 1.0-1.7V)
Engine at 2500rpm --- ~2.1V (1.5-2.1V) (tach is bouncy so guessed at the 2500rpm)
Engine at 4000rpm --- ~2.5V (spec is linear increase in voltage)
So I think the MAF is behaving OK. The car did stall while I was testing and the voltages stayed within spec throughout.

A friend of mine mentioned the CAM sensor which reminded me that I had put in a new one 3 months ago. The old one was leaking oil. I ordered an O-Ring. The dealer shipped the whole sensor and told me to keep it. So I installed it. Yesterday I went back to the old CAM sensor and lo and behold. The car ran for 25 minutes without a stall!. It does hesitate on initial acceleration sometimes, but it hasn't stalled or lost drastic power while accelerating since I went back to the old CAM sensor. I do need to drive it a few more days before calling this problem solved because it was intermittent.
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Old 10-29-2016, 09:40 AM   #9626
 
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It just stalled again :-(
Could the MAF sensor give "normal" voltage readings and still be defective?
I would buy one and see if it helps but locally they cost over $100 and the auto parts store wont take back electronic devices.
How would you recommend debugging this problem? It usually starts stalling after it warms up, and then it can stall often (or not). What can I check as it stalls which would tell me what is wrong? By the way, it seems to throw a KNOCK SENSOR code but I have read that that could be anything.
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Old 10-29-2016, 04:06 PM   #9627
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It just stalled again :-(
Could the MAF sensor give "normal" voltage readings and still be defective?
I would buy one and see if it helps but locally they cost over $100 and the auto parts store wont take back electronic devices.
How would you recommend debugging this problem? It usually starts stalling after it warms up, and then it can stall often (or not). What can I check as it stalls which would tell me what is wrong? By the way, it seems to throw a KNOCK SENSOR code but I have read that that could be anything.
What you can hopefully do is go to a junkyard and get MAF from there for a lot less money. Guys have claimed to pay only $15 for them. As I said before, I don't know how you can diagnose a MAF other than swap it out. But one thing to check for is the flexible tube that is between the MAF and the throttle body. If this tube is cracked, it lets in air that is not metered by the MAF and the air/fuel mixture cannot be accurately controlled by the ECU.

Any time you have a problem with the engine, you will get the knock sensor code. That is because the engine is not running properly and knocking. Fix the other problems and the knock sensor code goes away too. About the only way a knock sensor goes bad is that the plastic shell it is in cracks and this allows the internal connection to loosen up.
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Old 12-12-2016, 10:08 PM   #9628
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Lowering springs on stock struts?

Just picked up my maxima a few days ago and was looking into getting some lowering springs. The ones I was looking at have a 2.25" front drop and 2" rear drop. I wanted to use the stock struts because they a pretty much brand new. I measured the wheel gap(does have 18" wheels) and its about 3.25" in the front and 3" in the back. Would it be possible to run that setup?
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Old 12-26-2016, 08:51 AM   #9629
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Wont start, Security light flashing, I have no key

I lost the only key to my 1998 Nissan maxima some time ago and the dealership won't make a key cuz they say its too old. So I had a buddy drill into the ignition and start it with a screwdriver. It ran for one day and now the security light is flashing and the car won't start. Any suggestions would be great
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Old 12-26-2016, 11:50 AM   #9630
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I lost the only key to my 1998 Nissan maxima some time ago and the dealership won't make a key cuz they say its too old. So I had a buddy drill into the ignition and start it with a screwdriver. It ran for one day and now the security light is flashing and the car won't start. Any suggestions would be great
In the 1998, the flashing security light means that the car alarm is active. If this is the case, the starter is disabled and won't crank the engine. But if the alarm system is active, that means that the horns would honk and the headlights would flash when the door was opened.

First, I would try another Nissan dealer for a key. I never heard of this too old stuff. Nissan started keeping the key codes during the 1997 model, so it is available. If you can't get a key from Nissan, go to a local locksmith. They can make a key for the car without the code. But they need to have the car. You can take the lock cylinder out of the glove box or the trunk and take it to them.

Then you will have to get another ignition switch and take it to a locksmith and have them re-key it so that you will have only one key.

A word of advice for the future - ALWAYS have a spare key at home. This has probably taught you this. And also remember that a local locksmith can do more for you than the dealer. Plus it will be much cheaper.
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Old 02-20-2017, 08:42 AM   #9631
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Australian A32 1995 Maxima, OBD2 Port no where to be seen?!

G'Day from Down Under :P,

So Yet another Maxima.org Newbie here, Anyhow, i have searched everywhere including google, and here at Maxima.org for where to locate the OBD2 port on my AUS 95 A32 Maxima, and so far it is no where to be seen, all i have found is the Consult Port in the typical Fusebox Spot.

As i Understand it, ALL "US" Spec Maxima's have the Port, but it would appear that "AU" Spec 95's Do not (Despite some people saying that "ALL" A32's have it).


So far i have checked all the common spots including the Left (Passenger) AND Right (Driver) Kick Panels, checked the panels on both sides of the ECU behind the center console, and given a very good look up under the dash, and it just doesnt seem to exist at all.

All the FSM's i have found indicate it should be right next to the ECU in the footwell for the passanger, but all these FSM's assume its an LHD car, which its not because in Aus, our cars are RHD :P.

Is there any other Aussie 95 Max Owner here that can provide some feedback on where this thing might be hidden and if one can be wired in if not provided by the factory (provided the ECU supports it) ?

Does anyone have a FSM for a RHD "AU" Spec A32?

Does anyone know if there is an Upgrade path available to get a port if it doesnt exist such as putting in a 96 ECU and wiring up a port?.

The car is an Automatic as well if that makes any difference.

Thanks,
Alex.
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Old 02-20-2017, 04:47 PM   #9632
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G'Day from Down Under :P,

So Yet another Maxima.org Newbie here, Anyhow, i have searched everywhere including google, and here at Maxima.org for where to locate the OBD2 port on my AUS 95 A32 Maxima, and so far it is no where to be seen, all i have found is the Consult Port in the typical Fusebox Spot.

As i Understand it, ALL "US" Spec Maxima's have the Port, but it would appear that "AU" Spec 95's Do not (Despite some people saying that "ALL" A32's have it).


So far i have checked all the common spots including the Left (Passenger) AND Right (Driver) Kick Panels, checked the panels on both sides of the ECU behind the center console, and given a very good look up under the dash, and it just doesnt seem to exist at all.

All the FSM's i have found indicate it should be right next to the ECU in the footwell for the passanger, but all these FSM's assume its an LHD car, which its not because in Aus, our cars are RHD :P.

Is there any other Aussie 95 Max Owner here that can provide some feedback on where this thing might be hidden and if one can be wired in if not provided by the factory (provided the ECU supports it) ?

Does anyone have a FSM for a RHD "AU" Spec A32?

Does anyone know if there is an Upgrade path available to get a port if it doesnt exist such as putting in a 96 ECU and wiring up a port?.

The car is an Automatic as well if that makes any difference.

Thanks,
Alex.
The OBD II port for the US Maximas is by the ECU in the right side (Passenger side in the US) foot well by the ECU as you have read. I'm guessing that you have removed the plastic panel that covers the end of the ECU where the connector is and looked in there, although removing the cover is not necessary on US cars. Did you look from the left side foot well?

I don't know about adding a connector. I have never seen a 95 to examine where the wires come from.

In South Africa, the 1995 Maxima was a 2 generation Maxima, which was a different body and everything compared to the US 1995 Maxima. The 2nd generation Maxima was not OBD II.
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Old 02-20-2017, 11:37 PM   #9633
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Originally Posted by DennisMik View Post
The OBD II port for the US Maximas is by the ECU in the right side (Passenger side in the US) foot well by the ECU as you have read. I'm guessing that you have removed the plastic panel that covers the end of the ECU where the connector is and looked in there, although removing the cover is not necessary on US cars. Did you look from the left side foot well?

I don't know about adding a connector. I have never seen a 95 to examine where the wires come from.

In South Africa, the 1995 Maxima was a 2 generation Maxima, which was a different body and everything compared to the US 1995 Maxima. The 2nd generation Maxima was not OBD II.
Yeh, Removed both Panels from both footwells from where the ECU is, and Nuddah!, spent a good hour looking for it.

Is there a surefire way to determine if an AU 95 max is a Gen 2 or 3?

Buildplate date is 08/95, when i get home i could maybe grab the vin and try to decode that?


EDIT:... According to Wikipedia, what i have is a Nissan Cefiro A32 which is Called a "Maxima" here in Australia, and yes it does seem to look different but its noted that it shares the same engine as it s North american Counterpart.

Now in the US, an A32 is a fourth Gen, but not sure about a Cefiro / AU Maxima.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nissan_Cefiro

Thats the Article, and the Model i have falls under the A32 Designation (its a 30G which is pretty similar to a 30J)

EDIT 2:... According to https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nissan...2.80.931999.29 The 4th Gen US Maxima was Sold as a A32 Cefiro in Japan, and that indirectly indicates than the AU Exported Version (Called a Maxima) is basically a RHD Version of a 4th gen?

Last edited by KSSilence; 02-20-2017 at 11:50 PM.
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Old 02-21-2017, 10:46 AM   #9634
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Originally Posted by KSSilence View Post
Yeh, Removed both Panels from both footwells from where the ECU is, and Nuddah!, spent a good hour looking for it.

Is there a surefire way to determine if an AU 95 max is a Gen 2 or 3?

Buildplate date is 08/95, when i get home i could maybe grab the vin and try to decode that?

EDIT:... According to Wikipedia, what i have is a Nissan Cefiro A32 which is Called a "Maxima" here in Australia, and yes it does seem to look different but its noted that it shares the same engine as it s North american Counterpart.

Now in the US, an A32 is a fourth Gen, but not sure about a Cefiro / AU Maxima.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nissan_Cefiro

Thats the Article, and the Model i have falls under the A32 Designation (its a 30G which is pretty similar to a 30J)

EDIT 2:... According to https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nissan...2.80.931999.29 The 4th Gen US Maxima was Sold as a A32 Cefiro in Japan, and that indirectly indicates than the AU Exported Version (Called a Maxima) is basically a RHD Version of a 4th gen?
In the US, the A32 is the 4th gen and has the VQ30 engine. The 3rd gen was the J30 and used either the VG30 or VE30 engine. The body style changes with the generation designation. If your 1995 looks like the 1996 cars and has the VQ30 engine, then I think you have a 4th generation.

The looks of your Maxima is different from ours in certain details such as the grille, hood and the tail lights, but the basic body outline/shape is the same. Your car more closely resembles the US Infinity luxury model. But the infinity model did not appear until the 1996 model.

But I don't know why you don't have the OBD II connector. It may have something to do with the laws of the country. While OBD II was not required on US cars until the 1996 model, Nissan built the 1995 to those standards in order to have all 4th generation cars the same.

Whether you could install a 1996 ECU in your car is something else I don't know. If your car doesn't have all the sensors needed to supply data to the 1996 ECU, it won't work.

I don't have any more ideas about this, sorry.
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