How To: Trunk Strut Install (No More Torsion Bars
10-12-2007, 09:00 AM
#1
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How To: Trunk Strut Install (No More Torsion Bars
Here is my simple write-up on how to install struts to your trunk so those annoying torsion bars will be gone. I bought the struts for AutoZone for about $20 a piece (lifetime warranty). They measure 14" when extended fully and around 9" compressed (the black chamber is about 8" and the shaft is about 6" when extended). I have two numbers that I got off the struts and they are 29306 and 4259, I don't know which one they use for part look-up but I think it is the 29306. This strut has and open end (looks like an eye-lit hole) and the other is where you snap it onto a bolt with a ball on it. Make sure when you buy the struts that you have the one with the removable ball (easier intall).
1: The first thing you have to do is remove the torsion bars.
2: Then I bent the torsion bar holders connected to the rear deck out of the way. You can saw them off if you like but every mod that I do to my car you can return it back to stock.
3: Then you want to remove that hanging piece off the hinge arm. Just get a drill or side gringer and remove the rivet type connector that holds the piece.
4: Then you install the parts listed on the PARTS FOR HINGE drawing. The place where you took off the hinge is where you would install the bolt which is about 2" long, washr, and bolt for now.
5: Remove the back seat of your car and the plastic liner in the trunk.
6: On the trunk wall in the upper corner of either side with two holes right by a semi-U shaped opening. That is where you will mount the parts for the back wall. (the pic is named PARTS FOR BACK WALL) Kinda tricky to get in.
7: Once you have all the bolts and bolt with ball installed, all you have to do is install the struts. First I installed the struts to the hinge first and put the closed nut on. I thought it looked better with the closed nut and you don't have to worry about how tight you tighten it because it stops turning and leaves enough play for the strut to move. Then I just snapped ball end of the strut to the wall with the bolt with the ball.
Total mod cost about $45 which includes 2 struts and all bolts and nuts needed for installation. If you have any more questions and don't understand some of the instructions just PM me so we can talk. It is kinda hard to explain everything by writing it so if you want to ask me questions via phone just PM and we can exchange numbers.
I hope you like the install so now on with the pics.
The part that I removerd from hinge
Parts that you will need for hinge.
You can see where I bent the old torsion holders out of the way. Like I said you can cut them off if you want.
INSTALL CONTINUED ON THREAD (PICTURE LIMIT ON THREAD)
1: The first thing you have to do is remove the torsion bars.
2: Then I bent the torsion bar holders connected to the rear deck out of the way. You can saw them off if you like but every mod that I do to my car you can return it back to stock.
3: Then you want to remove that hanging piece off the hinge arm. Just get a drill or side gringer and remove the rivet type connector that holds the piece.
4: Then you install the parts listed on the PARTS FOR HINGE drawing. The place where you took off the hinge is where you would install the bolt which is about 2" long, washr, and bolt for now.
5: Remove the back seat of your car and the plastic liner in the trunk.
6: On the trunk wall in the upper corner of either side with two holes right by a semi-U shaped opening. That is where you will mount the parts for the back wall. (the pic is named PARTS FOR BACK WALL) Kinda tricky to get in.
7: Once you have all the bolts and bolt with ball installed, all you have to do is install the struts. First I installed the struts to the hinge first and put the closed nut on. I thought it looked better with the closed nut and you don't have to worry about how tight you tighten it because it stops turning and leaves enough play for the strut to move. Then I just snapped ball end of the strut to the wall with the bolt with the ball.
Total mod cost about $45 which includes 2 struts and all bolts and nuts needed for installation. If you have any more questions and don't understand some of the instructions just PM me so we can talk. It is kinda hard to explain everything by writing it so if you want to ask me questions via phone just PM and we can exchange numbers.
I hope you like the install so now on with the pics.
The part that I removerd from hinge
Parts that you will need for hinge.
You can see where I bent the old torsion holders out of the way. Like I said you can cut them off if you want.
INSTALL CONTINUED ON THREAD (PICTURE LIMIT ON THREAD)
10-12-2007, 09:01 AM
#2
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Install this part to the back wall. The actual pic of it install is kind crappy but you get the general area placement of the bolt ball.
Now after you have bolted all the pieces in you first secure the strut to the hinge then snap the other end of the strut tot the back wall. Now pics of the completed install.
Once again if you need help just PM me. Also I am not liable for any screw ups you do and this installation is at your own risk.
Now after you have bolted all the pieces in you first secure the strut to the hinge then snap the other end of the strut tot the back wall. Now pics of the completed install.
Once again if you need help just PM me. Also I am not liable for any screw ups you do and this installation is at your own risk.
Last edited by 2AZN2DMAX; 10-12-2007 at 09:05 AM.
10-12-2007, 10:27 PM
#12
When you open the trunk lid, does it pop all the way up with some force? Also, does it affect the alignment of the trunk lid? Does it require lots of force to close securely? I tried a version of this mod with only one strut but I didn't remove the torsion bars. I didn't like it so much and when I removed it the trunk lid gap is slightly large on the side where I had the strut.
10-13-2007, 05:10 AM
#14
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White Shadow the trunk opens like factory, real smooth and no gaps or anything. If you follow my directions then it won't pop up on its own. It could though if you lower the position of the strut on the back wall.
10-13-2007, 06:15 AM
#15
haha i was just thinking about only one negative about this, not to put a hinder on something that i can't wait to do. The only problem I could see is if you accidentally hit the trunk opener with your elbow and your automatic trunk lifter fights the wind while you're driving and works.
...heck, i'm doing it anyway.
...heck, i'm doing it anyway.
10-15-2007, 06:34 PM
#21
11-02-2007, 11:27 PM
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11-03-2007, 11:36 PM
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11-03-2007, 11:47 PM
#28
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here are some pics and a vid
here is a video of me opening the trunk
http://s228.photobucket.com/albums/e...t=Video001.flv
here is a video of me opening the trunk
http://s228.photobucket.com/albums/e...t=Video001.flv
Last edited by travmaximas1998; 11-03-2007 at 11:56 PM.
11-04-2007, 11:49 AM
#33
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cuz the struts are really strong and very hard to compress. cuz u have to compress the strut 1" to get it into to the spot. i should of took video of me and my friends installing it they strut lol quiet a task.
also have u done this?
also have u done this?
Last edited by travmaximas1998; 11-04-2007 at 11:54 AM.
11-04-2007, 08:06 PM
#35
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well i give u mad props if u did it with out compressing it, but u probably mounted it higher up on the arm then u wouldn't have to compress it. which would not let ur trunk open all the way
11-04-2007, 08:09 PM
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nismos14 probably drilled different holes to accomodate for the specific struts he bought. All we/I did was use existing holes and used a strut as close to the length as possible. It was hard but I did it by myself, Air Force push-ups help.
11-04-2007, 08:25 PM
#37
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ya that could help, but i dont think i could of done it when i was working out with football those struts were tough and im pretty sure they are the exact same as urs(2AZN2DMAX) so i give u major props.
05-25-2010, 10:27 PM
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Well, for those of us who are not very strong and didn't have other people around to help... I suggest a way to improvise 
Using this method I was able to compress the strut enough to clip it on to the ball. However, if you do attempt this, be careful as it does go under a fair amount of tension and you have to guide it to push against the strut! I think the struts I installed are 380N. It is a dangerous way to go about it, but I didn't really have any alternative.
One problem I've found though, is that my bootlid doesn't automatically come up when I hit the boot release like 2AZN2DMAX's boot does
Using this method I was able to compress the strut enough to clip it on to the ball. However, if you do attempt this, be careful as it does go under a fair amount of tension and you have to guide it to push against the strut! I think the struts I installed are 380N. It is a dangerous way to go about it, but I didn't really have any alternative.
One problem I've found though, is that my bootlid doesn't automatically come up when I hit the boot release like 2AZN2DMAX's boot does
Last edited by Maxima1984; 05-30-2010 at 08:17 PM.
05-26-2010, 10:23 PM
#40
Join Date: Nov 2007
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Certainly do
The ball in the distance is where I mounted the strut, as advised by 2AZN2DMAX
I couldn't find a strut that accepted a 'clip in ball' mount on one end and a hole for a nut/bolt on the other end, so I have the ball/stud on the boot arm as well.
As you can see in the pic below, I can't mount the strut any lower, as the boot lining would need to be cut up (something I'm not too keen on doing!)
The ball in the distance is where I mounted the strut, as advised by 2AZN2DMAX
I couldn't find a strut that accepted a 'clip in ball' mount on one end and a hole for a nut/bolt on the other end, so I have the ball/stud on the boot arm as well.
As you can see in the pic below, I can't mount the strut any lower, as the boot lining would need to be cut up (something I'm not too keen on doing!)
Last edited by Maxima1984; 05-26-2010 at 10:52 PM.