MJaeger

iTrader: (2)

So my CV joints are thrashed, a few questions.
1. What parts are needed, any tips on best place to purchase?
2. Does anyone rebuild them and refund part of the cost?
3. Is there any way to swap out the cv's and shafts without dumping my super nice full syn amsoil gear oil?! (Big bucks for golden oil )
4. How necessary is an alignment?
5. Any tips, or comments?

How about these axles, they say lifetime warranty. That sounds nuts on a part like CV's but why not
http://www.macautoparts.net/ProductInfo.aspx?id=3665638
http://www.macautoparts.net/ProductInfo.aspx?id=2284623

Thanks guys!
Jaeger

abomb1987

iTrader: (6)

1. Heres a link on how to remove and rebuild them, its a lot easier to replace then rebuild, any car part places will carry them with a core charge fee, but if you bring the old axel, they'll take the core charge off
http://www.motorvate.ca/mvp.php/401

2.Read #1

3. when ever you pull the axles the gear oil is gotta come out. just make sure the tub your using to drain is clean, and just pour back in when finished

4. Whenever the steering knuckle has been removed from the strut, you should have your alignment checked. The odds of it being back in the exact same position is very small, and you don't want to increase the wear rate on your front tires.

5. Tackel it

MJaeger

iTrader: (2)

Ha, cool. I haven't ever done axles before. Shouldn't be a problem, I get to use lifts and a full shops selection of tools if I want
Thanks for the quick reply!

99BlackMaxMS

iTrader: (85)

I am currently replacing both my CV boots right now because they have dryrotted. First, as long as you don't hear any clicking/thunking during turns and/or normal driving, your axles are still good. Assuming they are good, find your nearest NAPA and get 2 outer (assuming those are the ones busted) CV boot kits ($14 each). Use the link above to rebuild them.

You can always reuse your gear oil, but considering it is $8.10 per quart plus $5.00 shipping, it might be worth the $20 to just get fresh gear oil for the oil that your are loosing.

An alignment is recommended, but if you have 1/2 decent tires and your steering wheel still drives straight, there is no real need for an alignment.

Also, if your axles are still good, DO NOT DRIVE IN THE SNOW/SLUSH/SALT/SAND!!! Because it will ruin your axles completely and set you back way more $$. Good luck tho.

RNMMax

raxles.com has some high quality CV joints. don't waste your money on autozone/napa parts. they'll set you back some but it's worth it unless you changing your axles frequently. and change them both if one is gone the other isn't far behind.

KRRZ350

iTrader: (29)

I have some issues with the motorvate write-up.............

You are NOT supposed to use brake cleaner.

I've done 3 within the past week and will be doing 1 more today and another one in a few days, I think I've figured out the best way. But MAN is this a messy job.

Use a dremel to mark the position of the cage + inner & outer race. Remove the ***** by tilting all the way and popping them out one at a time. But make sure you keep the ***** in order relative to where you made your marks. Everything MUST be reinstalled in the same positions.
After all the ***** are out of the cv joint it is easier to clean with a paintbrush and a tub of water & degreaser. Compressed air is pretty much required.

Man is this a messy job. Have fun!

Murdoc

Don't mean to hijack the thread or anything, but this might be useful info for anyone else doing a CV change.
I'm trying to replace my passenger CV currently, but I'm having trouble getting the old shaft out, any tips? I removed the 3 bolts from that bracket but the shaft is stuck, rusted in or whatever. Ideas?

KRRZ350

iTrader: (29)

Yes, I only spend 5 minutes now banging with a chisel & bmfh (big mother f hammer) If it won't come, deal with it out of the car. Just remove the entire support bracket, it's held to the block by 3 14mm bolts. I can get them very quickly now using a 1/2" drive deep socket & the ratchet tip only halfway inside the socket it will clear the axle. Getting it on by the heatsheild is a biotch though, you have to bend/pry the heatshield out of the way a little bit, you'll see what I mean.

Once you remove the 3 14mm bolts you have to 'flip' the bracket 180* to get it to clear stuff, probably have to disconnect the oil-pressure switch as well. One time I had to tilt the engine forward a tiny bit by jacking up on the front of the y-pipe, but since have done it several times without it.

Once it's out of the car it is SOOOO easy to just hammer it off of the axle.