schyllerwade

Silver this is EXACTLY what I experienced in my 2001 maxima that i just purchased. Did you ever figure out what the issue was? Or how to fix it?

schyllerwade

I just bought the car and addressed the following codes.

P1320 power transistor ignition coil
P0302 spark plug 2
P0135 heated 02 sensor bank 1 sensor 1
P0720 Revolution sensor

I also changed oil, oil filter, air filter. As my mechanic finished this work we took it for a drive and it drove much much better. However, it still exhibited the acceleration problem-- decent pull when the gas pedal is 1/2 to 2/3 engaged,but hardly any acceleration WOT.

Starts up instantly, idles great, drives great around town, on fwy, whatever. It's just hard acceleration that's the issue.

CEL came on again, now it's throwing
P0430 catalyst system efficiency below threshold bank 2

Thoughts?

Mz.Perez

Ok I have a 1999 Nissan maxima and it isn't accelerating like it should. It had a cylinder 4 misfire...changed the spark plug and coil pack. That didn't change anything. It's still randomly misfiring. But now It's not even throwing any codes. We changed the fuel filter and checked the maf system. The filter was clean and was nothing blocking air flow. The fuel pump we changed a year ago. I checked the injectors they were 10.8, 10.9 & 11.2. We had someone check for vacuum leak and nothing could be found. I just don't know what to do anymore.

Icemule

Try unplugging each coil pack, one at a time. If the motor stays the same that's the one you have a problem with. By that I mean unplug a coil pack and listen to see if rpm has changed, if so plug it back in, then move to the next one and repeat until you have done all 6. Remember, if you don't hear the motor rpm's change, that's your problem cylinder, be it coil pack or injector. You listed 3 injectors, the other 3 are under the intake. You can take a looong screw driver and reach the two outside ones. Put the tip of screwdriver on injector and your ear on the handle and you should hear it clicking, do that to all of them. You might be able to reach that middle one from the driver's side if you really try.

The Wizard

iTrader: (43)

^

Mr. Perez, don't rule out that an injector could just be bad (dumping to much fuel, not enough fuel etc) regardless of the readings you get. And hopefully you put NGK platinum or copper spark plugs in.

Unique Serrano

My
Ses was flashing all
The way home about 50 miles str8 then once the car went back to normal city speed it was good
Solid light but now my car is losing power I have a p0300 codes random cylinder misfire help please !!!

Rob Butcher

I replaced old, cracked pcv hoses and valve. Problem solved for under $10.00

Rob Butcher

I replaced old cracked pcv hoses and valve. Problem solved

Rob Butcher

I replaced old cracked pcv hoses and valve. Problem solved

manual96maxima

a month ago my car started missing HARD. like surging so hard it throws you back and forth in the seat. i had already replaced all sparkplugs and coil packs last year.my check engine light was on so i hooked my computer up and it was throwing a bank 1 O2 sensor code. i replaced that sensor and the car still missed hard. the check engine light was not on so i threw a shot in the dark and guessed the mass air flow sensor. i unplugged the pigtail wire from the mass air flow sensor and the that solved the missing problem, so i knew a new maf sensor was needed. i bought it and replaced it. (the day before the missing started i had just replaced my starter) now just 5 weeks later, the car is missing hard again just like before i changed the maf sensor. this time my check engine light is on throwing a code for the same exact O2 sensor that i replaced already, on top of a bank 2 O2 sensor. its also throwing a manufacturer ignition control/ misfire code. i drove the car yesterday (havent put anymore parts on it) and the car died twice on me while driving down the road. i crank it back up and start driving again then the car lugs down and the rpms drop and lights dim like its trying to die and i pull over as a result scared that it is about to die. it doesnt die, but instead started idling normal. then i noticed a droning humming noise as its idling. i start driving it once again, and in 3rd gear, i start to accelerate and the car didnt respond at all. just coasted and slowly decreased speed as if i were not even accelerating. i let it coast and it starts responding again. now the accelerator not responding is happening very frequently while driving. my power locks start clicking and rapidly locking and unlocking on their own. today i cold start the car and in neutral, slowly rev it up the 6000 rpms. once it reaches 6k rpms, my radio turns off by itself and my brake light and oil light come on and as soon as i let off the accelerator, the brake and oil light turn off and the radio turns back on by itself. also, while idling and driving, the rpm needle with fluctuate rapidly on its own. with all these new issues arising daily and parts that i just replaced a few weeks ago going bad, i really think there is an electrical issue with the car thats causing multiple things to short out and malfunction. anyone have these issues???

Zerodrag

iTrader: (1)

Maybe use a cheap cig lighter volt meter to see how your alternator is charging. Probably could use a multimeter as well if you have one.

Randy Watson

1. Use paragraphs
2. check your alternator