99Silvermist SE

iTrader: (5)

Ok I was driving to work today and went to go blow by someone so i could get off of the highway and when I put the petal to the metal the car seemed to gain no power and kinda made a funny noise like the engine was bogging down or somthing. I had this problem before like 3 or 4 months ago but it never happend again till today. It only does it when I hit about 3.5-4 rpms and above. Anyone have an idea on what this could be? I thought it was the spark plugs before and the engine was just misfiring so I had switched them out. Hopefully it goes away like it did before but I'd still like to fix it. Any advise would be greaty appreciated.

KRRZ350

iTrader: (29)

Haha, I was gonna ask you if you were a '99 than I noticed your name! Remove all your coilpacks and carefully inspect them. If you see a small Mitsubishi emblem on them you need to toss them in the trash and get some Hanshin ones.

99grnmaxgxe

iTrader: (11)

No CEL codes?

99Silvermist SE

iTrader: (5)

My CEL light is always on. I have a rear 02 sensor code and like 2 ghost codes I know of but I havnt checked them in a bit. Hopefully the problem I recieved today threw a CEL code. Always a good source of information. I'll check again tonight.

The coil packs.... ha never really thought to check those.

Thanks for the quick responses and ideas guys.

Double E

If the ghost is the KS, your performance is already down. If your TB is also dirty, you're lucky to pass an 80's Civic. Bad coils may or may not throw codes, but you have issues that are probably also costing you in fuel mileage.

Fix your $hit!!! Come back with any questions & how you did....

Morpheus2010

iTrader: (2)

my 98 maxima is loosing gas mileage also. It was made in canda so everything is metric. I used to get 550km to a tank now i'm at 450km. Right now the only cel is for egr flow malfuntion. I plan to buy a new one(egr valve) from auto zone and change it. I had 07544 but it went away.

Akumachan

iTrader: (12)

This sounds a lot like a problem I have, my car gets really shaky below 1,500 in anything but 1st gear, and if I give it more than 1/2 throttle above 3,000 it doesn't go any faster, just makes a lot of noise and rumbles. I'm getting a Cylinder 1 miss-fire code, I just replace the Cylinder 1 coil-pack because it as miss-firing about 1 1/2 years ago. Any ideas, or do I just need to change the coil-pack again?

Divewjason

Are you all using at least 91 octane gas? If your car is running rough it's a good idea to put some Lucas Fuel Treatment in your car before spending more money on trying to fix a problem.

If that doesn't help, it could be the coil packs, the sparkplugs may need to be changed, or it could be the knock sensor. When any of you gun it does your SES/CEL flash on and off? Or is it already on?

nemesys

will the hanshin packs plug right in and is there a way to ID them if I go junkyard hunting?

sypher373

Hey guys,

I just found this thread looking for a problem im having, and it sounds pretty similar.

My CEL came on a few days ago. Threw the codes: Cylinder 6 misfire, Ignition circuit something (i forget exactly), and Knock Sensor. I pulled out the coilpack and spark plug on cylinder 6 and it was sparking fine, but intermittently it idles rough (along with lack of power)

Also, my CEL does flash when the RPMs get up there....what does that mean??

99Silvermist SE

iTrader: (5)

Well,

I havnt had the problem since that morning ride to work. It's hard for me to tell what it is if it only happens like 1 or 2 times a year. I always run Premium Gas in my car after the knock sensor mishap. It was weird though because when I slowly accelerated there was no problems and the car ran smooth. When I punched it thats when I would get the pdddddddd puttering feeling. The car didint really shake or anything though it just seemed to bog down but only after like 3.5 or 4 rpms. Is there a possibility that this could be a failing fuel pump? Sometimes when I go to turn the car on it take like 4-10 seconds for it to turn over sometimes.

FYI - I do have a new knock sensor in the car.

vqmaxman

It can be your MAF because you can't get your car past 4000 RPMS If that's what It's doing.

maximariceboi

iTrader: (32)

oops didn't read the other part...lol...yea it does sound like a maf issue.

my case was the cat.....

option

PLEASE READ.


i dont have enough posts evidentally to start a new thread so, here goes.


i sort of have the same problem as the OP.

i have a 96 maxima. about a month ago it started hesitating when i would accelerate and kind of choke and go then choke and go all the way through the rpm range.

i changed the fuel filter and the plugs. its not throwing any codes. its still sputtering and seems to be getting worse. at idle, it drops 200 rpms for a split second then jumps right back up and it does this every 3 or 4 seconds.

i thought it may be the tps going, but its not throwing any codes and usually tps sensors will only fk with the idle.

its getting to the point where the car wants to die, i have to blip the throttle sometimes to keep it going at idle.

i really hope its not coil packs because theyre damn expensive.

anyone have any clues? what would the cause be if this problem has been getting progressively worse?

ive also noticed its not as bad within the first couple minutes of being at operating temp.

sypher373

Not sure if this sounded familiar to anyone, but just in case it did:

All I had to do was replace the coilpack and the plug on cylinder 6 and the problem was solved. I guess the msifire caused the knock sensor and ignition ciruit codes to signal. I had the codes cleared and they haven't been back since....

Bills86e

Check your FPR

IlyaK

iTrader: (47)

Way too bump an old thread.

exsjulio

iTrader: (4)

option

try to check vacuum leaks, i had the same problem when i installed an oil catch tank. I had some vacuum leaks that would mess with the idle.

Also, i recently had a problem where the car would dip under 500rpm when stopped and i would have to hit the gas to keep it from stalling. It kept getting worse over the week, so i kept it parked and it didn't start up. So, i swapped out the starter and now it gives me no problems. it doesnt drop when idlin' anymore, so does your car have any problems starting up?

95MAXd

all of this sounds way too similar...occasionally when im coming off from a dead stop my exhaust or something starts to do this popping/hesitation. and there will be very little throttle response..then it started doing it at around 40mph itll just randomly choke almost..now i hav an obd1 so i dont think i can check codes..

is it spark plugs?
does it have something to do with my resonator being deleted??

95MAXd

idle seems a little rough also..not too bbad but noticable...

dkillahster

iTrader: (1)

this thread is about a year old now........ Stop bumping back old threads. It gets annoying.

97maxcades

goottttaa help out the newbeess guy

95Maxed

Ha, no one helped this poor soul...

97maxcades

what made my bumpy ride was a crank shaft sensor and a bad coil

JSeabury

Okay, so basically my car is experiencing most of the same symptoms that the past posts are experiencing, and I gotta say the loss of power is really discouraging.

With my car though, the CEL was on for about 2 weeks, and now it's all of the sudden off, and I really didn't do much different between now and then. Also (I think this is unrelated but I'm just throwin' it out there), my ABS light has been on for like a month and a half, and I have no idea how to get that to turn off, so that's a side note if anyone has advice for that.

But, more to the point, my 96' Maxima has been running really sluggishly, and my acceleration is NON-EXISTENT now-a-days. The first thing that's weird is that it Idles just fine, there is no wavering or hesitation with that. Also, it turns over just fine and starts like a breeze. But, right about midway through 1st gear, my car just loses all ability to accelerate in any kind of quick fashion. I'll literally have my foot all the way to the floor, and my car will barely respond, if at all. Also, I notice that this is a huge issue when I'm going up hills, because my car will just gradually slow down as I go up the hill, and it get's kinda scary when I have like 300 yards left of the hill, and my car is going 15 when I should be going 45.. haha

Aside from all of that, I recently had my oil changed (yesterday), and I just put in a 20oz. bottle of Chevron Techron Fuel System cleaner to go along with a 12gal fill up (per the bottle's instructions). Even earlier than that, about a month ago, I had my car's oil changed, and Jiffy Lube "performed an Auto Transmission Service" on my car. After that, my car was running like a beast, but gradually after that I've just lost more and more power with the day. I'm not really sure what to do at this point, and it's too early to tell if the Chevron Techron will be my savior or not.

Any tips? Thanks in advance for your time in responding to my post!

icuminpeace07

Sorry for bumping this OLD THREAD but im having the EXACT problem described in paragraph three in the post above mine......

Could anyone help me....?

asand1

iTrader: (1)

No, we cant help you. Not until you scan for codes and post previos maintenance and recent mods. What has been changed, what has been neglected. Are there any odd charachteristics?

"But, more to the point, my 96' Maxima has been running really sluggishly, and my acceleration is NON-EXISTENT now-a-days. The first thing that's weird is that it Idles just fine, there is no wavering or hesitation with that. Also, it turns over just fine and starts like a breeze. But, right about midway through 1st gear, my car just loses all ability to accelerate in any kind of quick fashion. I'll literally have my foot all the way to the floor, and my car will barely respond, if at all. Also, I notice that this is a huge issue when I'm going up hills, because my car will just gradually slow down as I go up the hill, and it get's kinda scary when I have like 300 yards left of the hill, and my car is going 15 when I should be going 45.. haha"

If you are referring to this post it could be many things.
Thoughts;
clean TB
check for KS code (this will not set the light on, you need to scan)

cashoit

Gotta post more info. CEL? mods? tranny type?

It could be a lot of things.

Like ASAND1 sd man,

Clean TB adn MAF per how tos. SCAN for codes. CD be bad TPS but sound more like faulty MAF

icuminpeace07

Cool...i do have a light prob get the code checked on friday tho....

tml2340

Bought this Maxima two weeks ago with 87,000 miles; 2nd '95 in current fleet (also have a GLE w/`150K). Car drove perfectly for test drives - of course - then a couple days later, the starter started sounding "off". Thought it may need to be replaced soon, keep an eye/ear on it. Then came the extended cranking to start it, along with an "off" sound to the starter.

Then, a week ago, CEL came on (interestingly enough, rightafter I filled it with premium gas). Codes 34, 47 and 77 (knock and crank position sensors and the rear heated O2 sensor). In searching, seems that a bad starter could have caused the knock and crank codes, or the Knock Sensor could be causing both the "off" sound of the starter and/or the Crank Position code - I'm I reading that right?

Now it's not starting - period. May be due to colder than normal temps in unheated garaged this AM (-4 below F) - I'll try jumping it this afternoon. But really needing some advice as to where to start with those CEL's... logically and financially!

Thanks in advance!

tml2340

Hope it's OK to quote yourself...

I just replaced the knock sensor, and as expected with my luck, no cure. Engine turns over slow, then just stops. Battery's less than two years old, but tried jumping it again - no change.

Beginning to wonder if it could actually be a bad starter... am I going in the right direction? Or could it be the Crank Position sensor that I should focus on? ...little confused where it's located - parts stores want to know if it the front or rear???

sorry for the noob questions - fairly new to Maximas.

asand1

iTrader: (1)

Slow cranking, missing, codes for faulty sensors (circuits).
Sounds to me like a power issue.

Check:
Battery terminals, they HAVE to be tight and clean.
+ connection at the starter.
- cable at the body under the battery and at the trans.
grounds at the front of the lower intake manifold.
Numerous other grounds on the body in the engine compartment mainly near the front.

Don't be lazy and slap on a grounding kit, they are a band aid and not necessary in a stock car. When I say check I mean detach, sand clean and reassemble. In the case of body metal sand to clean bare metal, you can spray paint later if you want.

If your battery has been run dead 3 or more times its done. Two years is awhile for most batteries. If you have a system its even shorter.

Mr.Nismo_215

i had the same problem ,when slamming on the gas it choke at 4000rpm i found that i had something stuck between my maf , i remove it and the car run fine without choking . check your maf

tml2340

Thanks Nismo, but there's no problem once it's running. Problem is getting it running (starting it)!

I'll check the grounds and connections mentioned -thanks for that bit of advice. It'll likely the last ditch effort I'll make before I have to call a tow to drag it out of the garage and take it to my mechanic (who's booked until early next week). Would it make sense logically to switch the old Knock Sensor back in? For a $125 credit back to my card, it's sure does make financial sense!

asand1

iTrader: (1)

The knock sensor isnt gonna affect starting, only mpg and performance. If you installed it its non returnable, and returning it would be unethical if it works. You bought it because you wanted a "real oem". KS is NOT your problem.

clean MAF, IAC, TB, coils (unlikely because they would all yhave to be bad). Check cam and crank sensors for fouling (metallic fines stuck to magnet on sensor). check grounds.

bobflood

There are two crank sensors on the engine - one near the front of the engine compartment on the drivers side where the engine and transmission mate up, and another one on the pass side just above the crankshaft pulley. On mine, after many weeks of chasing as starting problem got worse and worse, my shop found an "erratic" signal on the first one. Replaced it and no problems since - has been almost a a year, I think.

Mr.Nismo_215

i was trying to help the other guy out 99silvermist

rgilmartin

My money would be on the starter, and I dont like to gamble!

Of course check your wiring,

But you said it didn't sound right to you.

Do you have a voltmeter?

1) connect voltmeter to + - terminals of battery
2) turn key to start, and read voltmeter
3) If voltage drops below 11.5 v, there is high resistance in the starting system
4) Check for proper connections - battery and starter
5) Check resistance of battery terminals replace as necessary
6) if all other components in system are functional the starter may be faulty

tml2340

If your money was on the starter, you're a winner!

Cleaned all the grounds I could locate... no help. Battery tested good. Last resort was the starter - installed it on Saturday. First try sounded much better, but would only turnover and not start. Walked away frustrated. Came back 20 minutes later to try one more time... fired right up. Reset CEL and it's been good as new since. Strong acceleration, no hesitations, smooth idle. Starts immediately - hot, warm or cold.

Thanks for the input and advice...

Denoe

Hey guys,
I have a '95 max at it has a really weird problem, for some reason it is passing fuel all the way out of the exhaust pipe. Also it has fuel in the oil. It will not stay on for long and it idles really bad and then dies, I've changed injectors, fuel regulator and now someone told me to change the fuel rails. This all started when my engine coolant temp. sensor went bad. My max just choked on gas, I'm despered to find the problem and not just spend money on parts that aren't it. 3 mechanics have looked at it but they all have no idea what it's wrong with my max. PLEASE HELP!! Thanks...