S1cTech

Ok, so I need new brakes. and my Front Calipers are **** now. Replaced my Rear calipers 4months ago. I bought the combo axxis ult package what i think are Knockoff Brembos off this guy from Group Deals(Just like everything is that is junk there) and the rotors are getting face rot in the rear and the fronts are fine on the outside but getting bad on the inside. These ultimate pads I paid $100 bucks for and rotors are only a year and 5 months old. Funny huh? And I don't autocross or brake really hard.

Anyway... Long story short... I need new Inner pads because the wear bar is now hitting and very loud. Will Hawk Pads give me longer in estimate with clean new rotors in a gen4 with daily driving? I do about 30-40miles a day but if I am gonna blow $75 bucks in just front pads I want them to last longer then a 2 years like Normal pads should. I assume getting blanks will help a lot too. D/S ones are nice looking but really. I don't want Cheese graters.

Please, I need to know this very soon so if any of you 4th genners can help me that would be awesome. Going to Advance brakiing is usless because no one is there and I need to know this from a Gen4 forum because all gen maximas are different in weight and I am buying pads very soon. I want good stoping power, Longavity and low dust.



Side note about the stuff I bought and a reason why you should avoid most of the Brake sellers here on group deals.

The rotors were "Brembos" drilled and slotted. The guy said this is the combo he sells all the time and it is great deal and combo. Well little did I know is that this were not really D/S'd from Brembo and this asshat did it on a milling machine, (You know who you are). So with that said, I did not know these would end up being Cheese graters and now I am biting the big one and lost $300 bucks in the process. I PM'd the guy and he said. "I can't find you in our database" haha. what BS. Anyway he basically said too bad and screw off. I got your money...

Snypa

iTrader: (35)

people might have different times....i think it depends on your driving though.

dgeesaman

iTrader: (10)

HPS's are good pads but I would never call a Hawk pad "low dust". The HPS is the lowest dust pad Hawk makes, though.

The mileage you drive is not as relevant as how much stop and go your driving involves. If you're driving down a highway with traffic lights every 1/8 mi you're going to eat pads quicker than on a freeway. Definitely stay with blank rotors as you've already learned.

The HPS should last as long as any other quality brake pad. Good luck.

Maxgig

iTrader: (5)

When I had my 97 SE I used Duralast pads on my original rotors. I tried the X-drilled ones but ultimately didn't like the the rust spots that always appeared on them if I didn't drive the car for more than a couple of days.

JSMax

iTrader: (13)

the thing with performance pads is that you are going to sacrifice pad life for better brake bite.
No pad will last.

But there are ways to help them last longer than 1.5 years.
Engine brake lots. Realize that this will kill your clutch though.
Coast more. use the brakes at the last moment to stop your car. Read the traffic ahead. If the light way down the road is red, start slowing down downshift (for 5spds) cause your gonna have to do that anyway. Try to not use the brakes till your around 20km/h (???MPH).
I got 3 years out of my axxis ultimate pads by using this method. I hated every moment of driving with them though cause I had to clean my rims every 4 days. The dust was that bad.
The orginal pad I had on the car were by far the best as for not dusting. The EBC pads I have right now are not too bad.

Hope that helps.

CMax03

iTrader: (3)

Like all iron ductile brakes, especially in the gulf coast region! They lightly rust in a day or so!
The Hawk HPS's should last 2-3 yrs on the front. But you've got a brake issue if the inside pad is wearing more than the outside. That's a sign you've got a sticking caliper. How often do you change your brake fluid? When you do your brake job, Make sure you clean, inspect, lube your caliper sliding pins, and spring clips as per FSM. Press the caliper in and see if there is any extra effort needed to do so...You can try to flush it out, rebuild with a rebuild kit or exchange for some new/rebuilt calipers.

S1cTech

haha I hear yah, The dust sucks with these ultimate. When I bought them he said they were Ceramic. After I noticed they were dusting a lot. I PM'd him and he said. "Well they are a Kevlar/Ceramic mix."

QNO_A32

iTrader: (7)

soo... who should we not buy from in the group deals???

S1cTech

Well pretty much any brake rotor that "claims" they are milled by Brembo when they are not. Brembo only Crossdrills and they are usually gold in color. Brembo I think does a few slots but they never ever do anything that is silver or Nickel plated or Zinc coated or any of that for the drilling and milling as stated on their official site. So just go by that. Don't trust most of these guys in group deals as they will rip you off, sell you knockoffs and make you believe there is a warranty when there isnt. For example I bought Xenon-storm headlights with a lifetime warranty. ok that is well and good and all if it were true, but the company went under. So now what?

njmaxseltd

iTrader: (19)

I got 60K out of my OEM brakes
Almost 70K on the Stillen cross drilled/Metal Master setup
Currently have 25K with Brembo blanks and Wagner QS pads

I've never had brake judder ever in my 4th gen.
All depends on how you drive.

S1cTech

guys, I got some Monroe ceramics and Blank rotors at C.A.P. (A new England discount auto parts store) Just for the front for $118. How's that?

I just installed them and everything is nice so far the Slide on the metal pins were sized to ****, I had to heat them to take them out. The odd thing is the plastic ones were fine did not seize at all. Why do I only have one with a plastic shim and one without? Would it be better with plastic shims on both pins?

ThurzNite

iTrader: (13)

I replace front pads every year with street/race pads, like Hawk HP Plus pads. It's cheaper to replace the clutch once a lifetime than changing brake pads every year. Use engine brake, it's economically cheaper.

About the HPS, it's a common pad to use w/BBK.

Dr J