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Old 06-21-2009, 05:22 PM   #1
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Front Wheel Bearing replacement

I'm about to venture into the world of bearing replacement. I looked at motorvate's DIY, but had a couple questions. He used some home made tools to complete the job, which i'm not opposed to, but has anyone used something like one of these to replace the bearing? I'd rather just try to get everything in one package rather than head to home depot or something to get several peices to pull the bearing.
Click the image to open in full size.

second, when searching, it seemed that a lot of people said to remove the hub, and then have a shop press a bearing on, but based on the motovate DIY, the bearing was pushed into the steering knuckle furst, are these just different ways of going about it? When the hub is pulled, does the bearing normally come out with it? Or does the hub always come out independent of the bearing? If the bearings are pressed onto the Hub how do you install the outter clip when putting the hub back into the steering knuckle?
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Old 06-21-2009, 07:39 PM   #2
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First, you need to pull the hub. Use a puller, or do as motorvate did, hammer it out with the socket/rod.
Second, you need a bearing splitter/puller, as shown on motorvate, to get the inner race off the hub.
Third, you need a shop press, or construct a puller like motorvate did, to press or pull the outer race out.
Fourth, you need a shop press, or as motorvate did, hammer the new bearing in using the old outer race.
Fifth, you need a shop press, or use the puller motorvate constructed, to pull the hub back in.
PM me with any questions. I have done these bearings many times.
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Old 06-21-2009, 09:08 PM   #3
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Hydrolic shop press ftw!!!!
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Old 06-21-2009, 09:11 PM   #4
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for a press, anyone ever think of making a steel "cage" with a bottle jack mounted to it?
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Old 06-22-2009, 01:19 AM   #5
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My advice, pay a shop the $150 they'll want to do it and be done with it. If you don't have a press, you'll have a very difficult time - at least I did. That kit you show in the pic (at Harbor Freight) alone is like $75 - you're 1/2 way to that $150 mark already. You will likely not ever use that kit for anything else .... just a thought to keep in mind.

Plus ... and people on here who know me, know I don't like sending anyone to a shop if they can do it them selfs ... a shop will ensure it's done right the first time and should warranty it if it's not. If you do it and it's not done right, you'll end up paying a shop to do it anyway.
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Old 06-22-2009, 07:16 AM   #6
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My advice, pay a shop the $150 they'll want to do it and be done with it. If you don't have a press, you'll have a very difficult time - at least I did.
Absolutely correct, I concur with JtzMax!! Take the hub off as a piece and take it to a machine shop who will remove the old one off and push in the new one. That is what I did becoz even though the pressing of new bearings looks DIY there is a high chance in destroying the new bearings if not pressed correctly with consistent & uniform force.

I got TIMKEN (made in parternship with NTK, Japan) for $50/piece and paid the shop $45/side to push in the new bearings.
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Old 06-22-2009, 08:35 AM   #7
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It pretty easy as a DIY. The inner and outers can be pulled of an on with a puller just slightly smaller than the hub. Doesn't take a lot of torque to get them off an on. I sure wouldn't pay $150 for something you can do with a $20 puller. I have done both of mine.
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Old 06-22-2009, 12:37 PM   #8
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150 eh? Bring em over, i will press out the old and the new back in for $50!
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Old 06-22-2009, 02:28 PM   #9
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If you're using a press, don't you have to remove the knuckle from the car, which means you have to separate the tie rod and the control arm from the knuckle? So in addition to a press, don't you need a ball joint separator (maybe the same tool can be used for the tie rod and the ball joint, I don't know)? The attraction of the bearing kit posted by the OP is that you can supposedly replace a wheel bearing without removing the knuckle.

Maybe the experienced guys could comment on what tools they used to separate the knuckle from the car, and where they got them.
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Old 06-22-2009, 02:56 PM   #10
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Originally Posted by ATTappman View Post
If you're using a press, don't you have to remove the knuckle from the car, which means you have to separate the tie rod and the control arm from the knuckle? So in addition to a press, don't you need a ball joint separator (maybe the same tool can be used for the tie rod and the ball joint, I don't know)? The attraction of the bearing kit posted by the OP is that you can supposedly replace a wheel bearing without removing the knuckle.
Maybe the experienced guys could comment on what tools they used to separate the knuckle from the car, and where they got them.
Not really .... you need a press and something like 2 ton of pressure to push the old outter race out and the new one in.
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Old 06-22-2009, 03:06 PM   #11
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Don't forget to order bearing seals, those came seperate from the bearing i ordered.

also you need circlip pliers, there's circlips on both sides holding the bearing in before you start pressing out the old bearing from the knuckle.
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Old 06-22-2009, 03:40 PM   #12
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Not really .... you need a press and something like 2 ton of pressure to push the old outter race out and the new one in.
You do not need a press, a simple puller will extract and install the new bearings. Been there, done that, got the T-Shirt. The car is now rolling on the new bearings.

When you have done that you will not suggest a 2 Ton press is essential.
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Old 06-22-2009, 10:01 PM   #13
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I have done this operation many times on a couple of Japanese cars with the latest one being the Maxi.

Though I have always had the luxury of having a press available I believe that, with the proper adapters, there should be no reason that you couldn't pull a bearing into place. In fact what I have always lacked is a "bearing puller" (a clamshell-like device for wedging bearing IDs off of shafts) and have had to resort to die-grinding till the point where I could break the inner race off the hub.

A couple things I noticed that were a bit different (better) about the Maxi then the other bearings I've done were the fact that there were rings on both ends of the bearing so that it could be pushed or pulled in either direction (my other experiences were with counterbored holes w/one ring only). The other interesting fact is that the circlips did NOT require snap ring pliers, only a screwdriver (at least on my 97).

You've probably already read this but if you're new I'll repeat it anyway, when pushing/pulling the new bearing into the knuckle, push on the outer race only and when pushing/pulling the hub into the new bearing be sure to support the inner race only. I believe the hub is just short enough that it can be done without something hollow against the inner race.
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Old 06-22-2009, 11:05 PM   #14
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You do not need a press, a simple puller will extract and install the new bearings. Been there, done that, got the T-Shirt. The car is now rolling on the new bearings.

When you have done that you will not suggest a 2 Ton press is essential.
Yippy for you .... he asked if it could be done while on the car. If you can do it while on the car, you're a better mechanic than I or anyone I know.
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Old 06-25-2009, 09:27 AM   #15
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I wish I had the press myself, I've replaced bearings on my 97 3 times on the front left and twice on the front right side
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Old 06-25-2009, 01:16 PM   #16
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Who yanked your chain? Yes it can be done on the car, at least with the steering knuckle attached. Of course the hub has to be removed from the axle.

I know you want to send everyone to a shop and spend $150. That is not what this forum is for. It's to give guys the info to do it themselves. This can be done by the average DIY'r if they have the motivation. If you don't want to spend $30-50 for the puller you can rent one for free.

Yes I am a better mechanic than you, mechanics fix cars vs sending it out for someone else to do.

Yippee for me, shame on you.
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My advice, pay a shop the $150 they'll want to do it and be done with it. If you don't have a press, you'll have a very difficult time - at least I did. That kit you show in the pic (at Harbor Freight) alone is like $75 - you're 1/2 way to that $150 mark already. You will likely not ever use that kit for anything else .... just a thought to keep in mind.

Plus ... and people on here who know me, know I don't like sending anyone to a shop if they can do it them selfs ... a shop will ensure it's done right the first time and should warranty it if it's not. If you do it and it's not done right, you'll end up paying a shop to do it anyway.
I thought it was clear that I don't like to send people to a shop. However, unless you have the propper tools to get the job done right, how else is it to get done. You make this sound so simple, why not go do it for him?

I am glad we agree though that the hub needs to come off. Not sure if there might have been some confussion about what needs to come off. Of course the hub needs to come off
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Old 06-25-2009, 02:11 PM   #17
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You do not need a press, a simple puller will extract and install the new bearings. Been there, done that, got the T-Shirt. The car is now rolling on the new bearings.

When you have done that you will not suggest a 2 Ton press is essential.
you're referring to the hubtamer (or a similar tool)
http://www.sjdiscounttools.com/kdt3531.html

great tool...saves tons of time since you don't have to pull everything out...BUT
the tool is very expensive and if you're doing that many wheel bearings this is going to be over kill...unless there's a much cheaper alternative.
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Old 06-25-2009, 02:24 PM   #18
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Originally Posted by JtzMax View Post
I thought it was clear that I don't like to send people to a shop. However, unless you have the propper tools to get the job done right, how else is it to get done. You make this sound so simple, why not go do it for him?

I am glad we agree though that the hub needs to come off. Not sure if there might have been some confussion about what needs to come off. Of course the hub needs to come off
Its not really that clear to me why you would send someone to a shop and pay $150 for a diy job.

Actually I was going to suggest if he comes to MAXUS 09 we could do it at the track, I will bring my puller.

I'm not going to waste my time arguing with you when its clear that you don't want me to confuse you with facts when your mind is made up.

I found it simple and if you look on http://www.motorvate.ca you will find someone else that found it simple.

I won't respond further, I have better things to do with my time.
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Old 06-25-2009, 02:31 PM   #19
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you're referring to the hubtamer (or a similar tool)
http://www.sjdiscounttools.com/kdt3531.html

great tool...saves tons of time since you don't have to pull everything out...BUT
the tool is very expensive and if you're doing that many wheel bearings this is going to be over kill...unless there's a much cheaper alternative.
The puller I used cost me $30 but as I stated earlier you should be able to rent the expensive one for free. Autozone has a lend-a-tool program.
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Old 06-26-2009, 10:52 AM   #20
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The puller I used cost me $30 but as I stated earlier you should be able to rent the expensive one for free. Autozone has a lend-a-tool program.
is your puller a slide hammer style puller or something you have to use the impact wrench to get out?

got a pic?

the AZ by me got nothing...or nothing good.
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Old 06-26-2009, 10:02 PM   #21
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is your puller a slide hammer style puller or something you have to use the impact wrench to get out?

got a pic?

the AZ by me got nothing...or nothing good.
Same here ....
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Old 06-27-2009, 05:08 AM   #22
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is your puller a slide hammer style puller or something you have to use the impact wrench to get out?

got a pic?

the AZ by me got nothing...or nothing good.
Its just like a bearing puller, screws to pull the bearings in and out.

If you check out the motovate site he has pics of it.

Presently I am at the Holiday Inn in MD, just going to leave for the track for MAXUS 09 so I can't post a pic.
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Old 06-29-2009, 07:18 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by Love_00_Max View Post
Absolutely correct, I concur with JtzMax!! Take the hub off as a piece and take it to a machine shop who will remove the old one off and push in the new one. That is what I did becoz even though the pressing of new bearings looks DIY there is a high chance in destroying the new bearings if not pressed correctly with consistent & uniform force.

I got TIMKEN (made in parternship with NTK, Japan) for $50/piece and paid the shop $45/side to push in the new bearings.

Love_00_Max,

How did you go about ordering the TIMKEN bearings? Got any part numbers?

Thanks!!
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Old 06-29-2009, 09:33 PM   #24
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Love_00_Max,

How did you go about ordering the TIMKEN bearings? Got any part numbers?

Thanks!!
Those are autozones bearings. At least thats where i got mine.
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Old 06-30-2009, 01:28 PM   #25
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Love_00_Max,

How did you go about ordering the TIMKEN bearings? Got any part numbers?

Thanks!!
AutoZone stocks them. Part #510009 Actually, they are repackaged NSK bearings, made in Japan (highest quality)
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Old 06-30-2009, 02:17 PM   #26
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just patience didnt take long to do. My cousin had a tech at his work press the bearing in
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Old 07-10-2009, 02:48 AM   #27
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AutoZone stocks them. Part #510009 Actually, they are repackaged NSK bearings, made in Japan (highest quality)
^^^Thanks for the info. Just received mine today from AMAZON for $34.36 ea. It's a TIMKEN but says made in Korea...
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Old 07-10-2009, 07:14 AM   #28
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^^^Thanks for the info. Just received mine today from AMAZON for $34.36 ea. It's a TIMKEN but says made in Korea...
Does the package come with the whole assembly (bearing, races, seal)?
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Old 07-10-2009, 10:30 AM   #29
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^^^Thanks for the info. Just received mine today from AMAZON for $34.36 ea. It's a TIMKEN but says made in Korea...
That's the Timken brand, NOT the repackaged Japan made Timken AutoZone sells. Bearing should still last I'm sure.
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Old 07-10-2009, 10:32 AM   #30
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Does the package come with the whole assembly (bearing, races, seal)?
No, 2 seals are needed per wheel bearing. Around $10 each for seals.
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Old 07-10-2009, 10:32 AM
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