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MAF, TB, IACV, and EGR cleaning for dummies

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Old 01-20-2010, 01:08 PM
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use throttle cleaner, just spray it and all the gunk comes right off
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Old 01-24-2010, 08:50 AM
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By the time I got to the hacksaw step, I had enough stuff out of the way to use a dremel and a cut-off blade. I didn't even need a flexshaft...so others might try using a dremel also. You'll just need a steady hand.

Great tutorial, none-the-less.
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Old 04-10-2010, 10:46 AM
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Removal of EGR Flow Sensor

Moved to new post...

Last edited by rdw72777; 04-10-2010 at 11:25 AM.
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Old 04-18-2010, 12:07 AM
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One thing I might add on cleaning the MAF sensor wth the MAF cleaner.
Only spray from the front side (following the airflow). I looked up a few videos and other postings showing the MAF cleaning using the spray that cleaned from both directions. I ended up having a code for the MAF.

Without knowing much, cleaned the MAF sensor again (both directions), code stayed.

Today, I cleaned it again just from the front (air flow direction) and its back to normal.
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Old 04-18-2010, 01:00 AM
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I'm not 100% sure that's true....

I'll let more senior members chime in, but I'm not sure cleaning the MAF from one side is the recommended strategy. Its been a while since I've done it but I think I remember spraying from both sides with no adverse effects.
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Old 05-23-2010, 12:24 PM
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should one attempt this even if there are no problems

just wondering should i try to do this here soon ... I have a 96 max 5 speed with 84k on it. i have replaced ks, rear o2, oil , air/oil filter ,fuel filter, spark plugs, Is this recommended if there are no idle problems or anything? I just bought this car for 2800 bucks and Im new to the forum....it came with the ks code and o2 and purge valve code but that one went away ...this forum has helped me a great deal in changing all of that so I also wanted to say thanks to everyone who posts in here...
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Old 06-04-2010, 09:41 AM
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Well , thank you for this, well explained. Just ordered the gaskets needed from nissan...
Cost around 8$ each here in Quebec.
Can't wait to do it, pretty sure i'm gonna have a huge improvement on the car

Could use more info on cleaning the MAF tho. Thanx

Last edited by LeFrank99; 06-04-2010 at 09:50 AM.
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Old 06-05-2010, 12:44 AM
  #48  
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Highly doubt the huge improvement. The only difference I felt was the smoother upshift at WOT.
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Old 06-09-2010, 11:37 AM
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Ok, I am about to do this on my car and I have 2 questions;
I did search and i found different numbers so , what is the correct idle speed (on park) for an AT?

also, it's written :- Warm your engine up to operating temperature
- Unplug the 2 TPS plugs in the 1st engine pic

So I warm my engine then disconnect?
or do I warm the car,stop it, disconnect, restart the car then adjust?
thanx for the input

edit: thanx but nevermind , found what I was looking for

Last edited by LeFrank99; 06-10-2010 at 06:46 AM.
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Old 06-11-2010, 04:41 PM
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So I did all this today... took me about 3.5 hours to take apart/clean all pieces...
It was indeed a pain in the **** to hack the bolt off but I came through

So I start to put it back together only to find out the guy from Nissan sold me the wrong upper EGR gasket. Guess I learned to take the part # (like 96i30azn carefully put in his tutorial) instead of just ordering it from Nissan..
Now I have to order it Monday so I guess no car till Wednesday

We learn by our mistakes... hehe

other than that everything went well, followed the FAQ , thx again
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Old 06-16-2010, 06:37 AM
  #51  
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Originally Posted by 96i30azn
Highly doubt the huge improvement. The only difference I felt was the smoother upshift at WOT.
Finally put all that back together yesterday and indeed the upshift is smoother. Even the downshift is a bit better and the idle is great.

Thanx again
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Old 06-16-2010, 07:09 AM
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the way i feel man, u shdnt have to clean EGR. If u use the techron regulary it will clean all the internals. that stuff is good.

Definitely clean TB, MAF.

I say only clean IACV if u really think u got a problem
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Old 06-16-2010, 09:36 AM
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Originally Posted by cashoit
the way i feel man, u shdnt have to clean EGR. If u use the techron regulary it will clean all the internals. that stuff is good.

Definitely clean TB, MAF.

I say only clean IACV if u really think u got a problem
^^

If you want a clean running intake then perform this entire write up. As many others have stated I got a much smoother running maxima when I did this clean job.

If mechanical work is out of your league then just pour in techron.
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Old 06-17-2010, 08:04 AM
  #54  
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My EGR was really clugged up, had the 0302, did help doing all this and
I was actually going to check this techron i keep hearing about 'round here, not even sure if they got that here in Montreal. Never heard of it before. hehe
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Old 06-17-2010, 10:31 AM
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Originally Posted by jholley
^^

If you want a clean running intake then perform this entire write up. As many others have stated I got a much smoother running maxima when I did this clean job.

If mechanical work is out of your league then just pour in techron.

Dont doubt the power of the techron lol. One bottle and u will become a true believer like myslelf and soooo many others.

If u use it or some GOOD form of injector cleaner then theroetically u shd never have that EGR buildup. Techron is the best stuff u can buy hands down

Last edited by cashoit; 06-17-2010 at 10:36 AM.
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Old 06-17-2010, 11:08 AM
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Well, I even had to call chevron and after a transfer here and there... apparently they don't sell chevron techron fuel injector cleaner. Does not meet some spec. here in Quebec or Canada.
They do sell all of their products but not injector cleaner.?

So I ask , what would be the best cleaner brand I can buy?
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Old 06-17-2010, 12:05 PM
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stay away from lucasoil....some parts store worker recommended it and my car bogged down like crazy. Never again.

I think its called goldeagle or sumthin. THats stuff ok. STP is cool too.

See if u can order some chevron online. It worth it. Never hrd ANYONE say they didnt like it.

THe way i be advertising the stuff i shd be gettin paid. I even started a thread on it back in teh day lol

Last edited by cashoit; 06-17-2010 at 12:24 PM.
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Old 06-17-2010, 12:15 PM
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hehe , Thanx a lot for the input , we do have lucasoil...
I'll check into ordering it but it's the shipping that could be to much, i'll see, otherwise, guess i'll go with STP , i know we got that here.

Thx again
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Old 06-23-2010, 02:45 PM
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Thank yo so much for a great write up

I just wanted to let you know that when you're cleaning MAF SENSOR, be carefull because it's a very sensitive device. I screwed up mine and now, I have to replace it.
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Old 06-24-2010, 11:39 PM
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Originally Posted by LeFrank99
Ok, I am about to do this on my car and I have 2 questions;
I did search and i found different numbers so , what is the correct idle speed (on park) for an AT?

also, it's written :- Warm your engine up to operating temperature
- Unplug the 2 TPS plugs in the 1st engine pic

So I warm my engine then disconnect?
or do I warm the car,stop it, disconnect, restart the car then adjust?
thanx for the input

edit: thanx but nevermind , found what I was looking for
For you, and anyone who might wonder the same thing reading this, correct idle speed with an AT when the engine is WARM and the AC is OFF is about 700 rpm.
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Old 07-15-2010, 12:54 PM
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PERFECT DIRECTIONS!! THANKS SO MUCH!!!
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Old 07-15-2010, 01:53 PM
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First, thanks for this great write-up. I printed this up and did the whole thing a couple weeks ago. I did do one thing a bit different though. I was really dreading the hacksaw part. When i got to that, I instead removed the lower EGR valve. Once that big nut is off, the pipe that is in the way flexes just enought to get a socket on the bolt that is in the way. Everything came right off and seemed a lot easier than the saw.
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Old 10-18-2010, 11:48 AM
  #63  
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Originally Posted by e-man69
I did all of this plus replace front heated o2 sensor and a great improvement, however still stalls and quits at stops. fuel pump?
sounds like mass air flow sensor.
stuttering, stalling and dying usually is MAF.
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Old 10-25-2010, 10:11 PM
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Awesome tutorial, might give this a try myself
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Old 12-06-2010, 05:39 PM
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3rd time is the charm

Thanks to this forum, I did this procedure on my daughters 97 a couple of years ago and even though I didn't find a clog in the EGR tube, cleaning it did make it run better. I just completed doing this on my 95 (with 277,000) on it; the tube and the IM were clogged good. I had to take the IM off to replace the #1 cylinder fuel injector, replaced the valve cover gaskets, cleaned up the EGR tube and it runs like a brand new car!

I am still battling a P0400 on my daughter's 97 even though I've cleaned the EGR tube, IAC and TB. Have replaced the BPT Valve too. Any ideas what else to check for the P0400? I've also check the solenoid valve and it seems to work as expected (unless someone tells me differently) and pushing up from the bottom of the EGR valve does cause the car to want to stall. I did swap my EGR temp sensor from the 95 to the 97 and the problem went away for a while but it is back.

One thing I did notice on the 97, someone failed to put the bolts in the back of the IM which allows it to move a little. Would this have any effect on the P0400? (I intend to correct that but didn't know if there was any relation).

Thanks for everyone's help here!
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Old 12-06-2010, 05:50 PM
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Dcarlton, the majority of the posts here say the bolts on the back of the IM are an option for re-installation. I always think that if it was assembled that way it ought to go back that way. I don't see how these bolts could cause a CEL code. Someone else will chime in an idea to correct the P0400...

Be Safe,
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Old 12-07-2010, 10:11 AM
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nice writeup
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Old 12-07-2010, 02:52 PM
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I replaced the knock sensor, great improvement in performance. I was getting the P0505 (0205) code so cleaned the IACV and the PS and AC solenoids. Still getting the IACV code even though the idle is good. Based on what I've seen by searching, I should check connections, wiring and then replace IACV if code keeps coming back. That bugger is expensive.
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Old 12-09-2010, 10:36 AM
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cool write up. I've got projects up the whazooo this coming christmas vacay.
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Old 12-22-2010, 04:29 AM
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Good morning everyone, new to these forums but already have learned a lot. I have a 2000 SE, 75k miles (apparently 5th gen, but not sure which engine I have), which has the rough idle problem at start up. Most noticeable in cold weather. I currently have no services codes showing (that in itself seems incredible), and have recently replaced ignition coils and MAF by dealer. After reading forums here I'm going to clean TB and IACV and possibly replace the upper intake manifold. But yesterday I noticed that I have a vacuum servo sitting on top of my TB that appears to be able to push the throttle lever open. I discovered the small vacuum line to that servo is cracked and probably leaking.

Can anyone explain what that vacuum servo does and if it might be causing my idle problems?
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Old 12-22-2010, 09:15 AM
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most likely you are looking at the EVAP purge control valve and the EVAP purge volume control valve. Why would you think that you need to replace the upper intake manifold. Maybe you are refering to new gaskets on the UIM? By all means check out and replace any cracked vacuum lines.

Here's a great source page for working on the UIM: http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...im-w-pics.html

Be Safe, Mark V.
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Old 12-22-2010, 09:42 AM
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Yep, sorry, I meant the UIM gasket, not the entire manifold.
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Old 12-26-2010, 08:57 PM
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Great writeup OP, just did all of this to my car the past few days and ended up finishing today. My car has never ran better, thx!
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Old 01-06-2011, 05:23 PM
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A few weeks ago my CEL came on and threw a 0302 egr code and a knock sensor code. After researching maxima.org, i went about replacing the knock sensor and cleaned the egr tube, which was completely blocked in the same way people's pictures have shown. I even disconnected the battery overnight as directed, the CEL went away and engine seemed to run a little better in general. All good.

But then the CEL came back on 3 days later!! It's throwing the just the 0302 egr low/high flow again (no knock sensor code). What could be the problem? A faulty egr sensor??
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Old 01-10-2011, 09:50 AM
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bump
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Old 03-01-2011, 11:56 PM
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Thank you so much for this. Super helpful!
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Old 04-04-2011, 01:25 PM
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Originally Posted by Quickywd01
I just did this and it helped. Make sure you tighten up your throttle\cruise control cables. I had slack in mine and now the pedal is perfect. Also don't forget a 300zx fuel filter. It's twice as big as the stock one and for $15 at a nissan dealer it's a great deal. The build quality was amazing for a fuel filter.
I'm going thru the cleaning process now and after reading above highlighted info about the 300ZX filter I'd like to get that installed also.

The question I have is what year 300ZX or even better a part number.........anyone!???
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Old 04-04-2011, 02:01 PM
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Originally Posted by XPLRN
I'm going thru the cleaning process now and after reading above highlighted info about the 300ZX filter I'd like to get that installed also.

The question I have is what year 300ZX or even better a part number.........anyone!???

z32
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Old 04-04-2011, 03:47 PM
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Originally Posted by nhaven
z32
Thanks for your timely reply.
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Old 04-05-2011, 03:45 AM
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Originally Posted by XPLRN
Thanks for your timely reply.

You are welcome.
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