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Well, I've searched here and there, but I'm running out of time. I purchased a 96 I30t a few weeks ago and it has 178K miles. I knew it had some problems when I bought it, but I got it for a steal and it's in pretty good shape.
It had a few trouble codes when I bought it, one for an O2 sensor, and one for the KS. And it was running good, idled real smooth, and had a slight hesitation under accelleration which I had attributed to the KS. The last time it ran was Saturday, and all was normal except for a low idle at stoplights right before I got home. Then on Monday, it just cranks and cranks and won't start. I assumed the fuel pump, I have a fuel pressure gauge but no tee fitting, so I can't check the pressure, but I did pull all three front plugs and they're soaked in gas. So I pulled them all and let them air out. They're brand new plugs and look just fine, but the previous owner opted for Autolite platinums.... so those will be replaced soon also. So I'm led to believe it is a problem with spark.
I also pulled the codes again and got two more, one for the intake air temp and one for the MAF. Would either of those not let the engine start? I also checked the cam position sensor with a multimeter and it showed 1637 ohms, which according to the haynes manual is within specifications.
So I guess what I'm asking is: It seems as if gas is getting to the cylinders, but what would not allow there to be any spark? I'm really strapped for time now and could use a shot in the right direction
also there is two grounds wires(Fisheye connectors) that connect to the lower intake manifold. I would check those out.They would be on the front side of the engine(rad side)
97 Maxima CG2 GXE 5SPD 00VI EU mostly Stock exterior (totalled)
96 Maxima KH3 SE 5SPD 00VI>3.5 swap EU Stock exterior (Engine)
98 Maxima CG2 SE 5SPD Y-pipe 00VI EU AE Lights
02 Maxima KH3 SE 6SPD BOP SRI Stock exterior
Well, I don't know what I did, but it finally started tonight. It started kind of hard, kind of like it was flooded which it probably was, but after it started up, it's been fine ever since. While I was messing with it tonight, I replaced the O2 sensor I had the code for. And after I posted before, I remembered that I caused the MAF and IAT codes a few weeks ago when I started it before I remembered to plug those back in after having the airbox out of the car... stupid, stupid, stupid.
But after it started, I cleared the codes and drove it around quite a bit tonight and no CEL. I know the KS is still bad, but that won't cause a CEL. But the funny thing is, is that it actually runs better now. It idles smoother, and the butt dyno showed a slight gain as well. I have no idea why it wouldn't start the last two days. I didn't change anything, all grounds were clean so I didn't mess with any of them. All I did was test a few things.
I actually hate it when this happens, now I'm paranoid it will happen again a week later when I'm 100 miles from home. I wish I could have just found a problem, fixed it, and been done with it! But thanks for the input you guys.
Forget everything I said, car still cranks but no start.
Well, I originally had this problem two weeks ago and now it's back, it cranks fine, but it doesn't want to start, then I have to mash the gas pedal to get it to start, and when it does, it blows tons of smoke out the exhaust, most likely from being flooded. It ONLY does this on cold startups, and I don't mean when it's cold outside, just when the car has been sitting a while. If I get the car started after sitting a while, it runs EXTREMELY rough, almost as if it's missing. But after it warms up, it's completely normal. After it's warmed up, I can shut it off and it will start right back up.
As I said in an earlier post, after this happens, the spark plugs are soaked in gas, so I don't think it's a problem with the fuel system. I've searched a bunch about this, and I've found posts where people had problems like this, but it did it all the time, and they were caused by a faulty crank pos. sensor, or ECTS, or a dirty throttle body/IACV. It's been raining here for two days, so I haven't been able to do a whole lot of testing, but I don't think a crank pos. sensor or the throttle body would only be causing problems when the car is cold. Once the ECU gets into closed loop, it runs and will restart just fine.
When this first started, I had codes for a KS, and an O2, since clearing them out and replacing the O2, I now have codes for the MAP and a different O2. But I didn't get the MAP code until just yesterday, and I've been driving it pretty frequently. After I cleared the codes the last time, I went almost four hundred miles with this problem with no more CEL's.
Since the plugs are soaked in gas, that means it's most likely either an air or spark problem. And because it only does it when cold, I think that rules out an air problem. So I'm led to believe that something is throwing off the ignition timing horribly when the vehicle is cold, but I don't see how a sensor can only be faulty when the ECU is running in open loop. But if anyone has an idea, I'm all ears.
Well, pmohr, as usual, you were correct. The engine was flooding itself on cold starts, and it took me a while to figure out why. Fuel pressure was good while it sat, so it wasn't beeding off into the cylinders. The ECTS was one of the first things I checked when I started having this problem, but it must have still been an intermittent probelem when I checked it, cause it checked fine the first time. But after checking everything else I decided to check it again... and it was WAY off. It was telling the ECU it's about 20 F below zero, which was in turn making the ECU spray WAY too much gas into the cylinders for a cold start.
I noticed a few new hard start thread when cold threads so I thought I would update this with my solution. Along with new KS, O2, NGK platinums, and a fuel filter, this thing runs like a champ now. Thanks for all the help.