smai555

in my case it wasnt ..... and i dont think thats a fool proof way of ruling out fuel related problems

if i had a dead battery and a fuel related problem the test would have the same result

TheRooki3

Where are my manners?!....I read this originally on my blackberry that (for some reason) didn't show all of the message...but i appreciate you welcoming me to this wonderful site for our awesome machines...i noticed (on my laptop) that you gave me a procedure on what to do (and in what order) and i'm sorry that i ignored that....i will give it a try and let you guys know what's happening....once again i thank you...and thank you to everybody else on this site as well.....very helpful information

joshshow

I am having this same problem on my 2000 Maxima. I have changed everything that has been mentioned on here. The only thing I have not done is add grounds even though I have cleaned and tightened all the factory ones on the car. The strange part is that the car was originally very hard to start and then became easy to start and then finally a few days later I can get no start at all.

slow_yota

iTrader: (1)

Update, I got my new coils..Cleaned my IACV..
and installed a new fuel filter.Still no fire.

And can you say. . . . . Thread hijack ?

smai555

yea hi-jacked again Joshshow theres alot of info here on no/hard starting i dont know too much about 5th gens as there might be a "trick" that is exclusive to 5th gens that we may not read about here on the 4th gen side i would think they are about the same but thats just a guess have you used the search function?

slow_yota
have you added the ground? heres what mine looks like

slow_yota

iTrader: (1)

Yea i added some grounds and spent hours searching...Not finding any crucial info i'm missing though.Next stop is to buy/rent a code reader and see if i'm missing something in the codes.

FallenOne

iTrader: (17)

go to autozone buddy; theyll read them for ya for free.. but the ecm screw is probably your best bet... just record the flashes on your phone or whatnot and when your trying to decipher them write down the pulses and what not....

im sorry bud but i think weve moved up to the Security system/ecm part of this adventure.... got any friends with max's? im defintely thinking you should go to a junkyard and buy a 97-98 ECM and repin it..... im sorry we cant be more help man... but were stumped at this point; try PMing pmohr he might be abled to think of something we missed....

for now though; download the 99 FSM if you dont already have it and do the security checks.... such as is your security light on constatly? is it blinking whenthe cars off? and honestly cause i cant remmeber asking; what did you do to the car prior to it not working?????

smai555

i think he has a 97 which the security will not cut off fuel or spark thast only in the 99 (i think)

and i dont think he can take the car to autozone to get the codes read cuz the car will not start .... and the scanner is free to borrow you just have to "buy" it and return it with in 30 days


if your going to autozone i would take the starter and battery and have them test it (just for peace of mind, its free and why not your going there anyway)

i would also test the fuel pressure regulator some people say that if you pull the vacuum line off and there is fuel in it its bad or you can pinch the return line let the pressure build up and crank it

the true test to that is to put a pressure gauge in the line before the regulator it but i never found a good place to tap in so i just pinched the line (be careful with this method cuz it can over work the pump if you leave it pinched too long)

oh and i would also swap the starter rely under the hood with another rely of the same color .... its right by the driver side headlight there are more relys on the passenger side that you could swap as well

americanclassicg

So blindly replacing parts is a fool proof way of diagnosing a problem?

I understand that its not fool proof, but it can definitely give you some clues.

Also, in my experience (which Ill be perfectly honest is with predominately vintage autos) usually one thing will break.

smai555

i never said to blindly replace parts

and i agree IN SOME cases that method will work IF it is a fuel problem.... i dont chase clues i look for answers by testing parts

slow_yota

iTrader: (1)

yes it is a 1997 and it wont move so having auto zone scan the codes wouldt really work unless i towed it there..Anyways.

No update today...Going to check and re-check some things.

Would the ECU from my running 96 work on a 97 ?

cashoit

Yo man, it gotta be ECU or a bad subharaness for the CKPS.

List all the stuff u replaced so far so we all kno.

HOw many miles too...

Im an idiot. Dude u have an electrical issue on a 97 and it came to me, read this bulletin for the maxi from consumerguide.com.
U lookin at mechanical issues and its gotta be an electrical issue somewhere.

Rough idle: Rough running engine accompanied by check engine light may require revised powertrain control module. (1997)

Rough idle: Several problems (no-start, no A/C, rough running, etc.) can be traced to broken wires in the engine compartment where the harness bends near the right strut tower. (1995-97)

slow_yota

iTrader: (1)

Hmm..Interesting man, Thanks for the info.
[Leaving to go check it out in the garage]

EDIT:
Checked the bend near the passenger strut tower...It does have a pretty tight bend but don't see any fried or burnt wiring.
More hoping its the PTCM.

TheRooki3

ok.....this is what i did so far today

-Checked to see if there was a noise coming from the fuel pump (took the rear seat out) Yes there is noise

-Created 1 extra ground source from the neg. battery terminal to the trans mount screw (8 gauge wire i believe)

-Changed the crankshaft sensor (from one out of the junkyard....cleaned it before i installed it)

-Changed the cam sensor (from one out of the junkyard...cleaned it before i installed it)

-Cleaned the throttlebody out

-Checked for codes and got no check engine light blinking (is that normal if there are no problems?)

Still no start....(Note: i'm very broke until friday where i can buy new sensors if that's the case,lol....also how do you test the cam/crankshaft sensors so i'm not throwing away money)....it'll just still crank but not fire up..

-

smai555

did you just hi-jack this tread?

yes i think you should get the 0505 code meaning everything is fine

do u own a multi meter? i dont knwo how to test the sensors of the top of my head but if you search you can find the values for everything

also check the ECTS, check for spark, clean the IACV, relys, FPR battery and starter

TheRooki3

Mah bad....i don't consider "hijacking it"..it's more like "sharing your issues" ...

but wow i didn't get the 0505 code...let me get this straight...i put the key in the ignition and turn it to position 2 (when you see all the idiot lights) turn the screw (on the ecu) all the way clockwise (until it stops) wait 2-3 seconds and then turn it all the way counter clock wise (until it stops) then you should see the engine light blinking....but i see no engine light come on at all...

yes i own a multimeter but not too sure what i'm looking for....voltage? and if so, what should it read?

and this is a "so far" check list,lol...i'm working my way there...just had a day off today...what is the ects? gotta check everything else (iacv,fuel, and spark of course) thanks for the reply anyways

defiance

iTrader: (1)

The check your gauge cluster your check engine light Bulb is probably burnt out I think its a 194 bulb you need.

bobfu3.0

iTrader: (5)

check to see if you have a alarm i had one it would crank alllllll day got a new starter nope got a clutch relay nadda so i dug around the igniton and it was the alarm check it maybe it maybe not gl

TheRooki3

i honestly think the bulb that was "burnt" isn't "burnt" but i'll check if there is even a bulb in there (if you get my drift)...let me just put it this way....i got it off of a shady character from craigslist....but i love how these cars look so i bought it cheap regardless....i couldn't lose ($800)..but is it hard to get to the (check engine) bulb on this?

bobfu3.0 i have a factory alarm....would this cause my occasional fire up when cranking it? It doesn't fire up anymore though btw...gotta dig deeper i guess...but i'll check the bulb...

Blakfreestyle

iTrader: (1)

slow_yota, you say that you have a running 96 maxima? I'm known to my friends for double-checking things. I do not agree with spending money on parts and not doing a good diagnosis first.

Since you have the other car then swap MAF sensors. Please forgive me if you already did this. Your thread is getting hard to follow since the armed hi-jacking.

I took autos in school, the teacher was nice enough to let me take home the book (1998)!!! So i believe in methodical tests/ scientific approach.

The fuel system should be diagnosed with a fuel pressure gauge.. Since most of us don't have this then I would check for fuel at the fuel filter hose that leads to the engine.

Please be careful since we all know the dangers of gasoline.

Then you need to verify spark as well. on the non-coil cars you would pull the spark plug, crank and look for visual spark. This test requires 2 people. But you are desperate so give it a shot. Everybody here wants your max to start.

TheRooki3

Look...i apologize for "hi jacking" the thread...i'm a noobie and can't officially create my own thread until i replied 15 times...but why would i create a thread on a subject/possible issue in the first place? Just did a search....symptoms sounded similar to what i was going through....not too sure what i was supposed to do/say? Should i have just read along in hopes that somebody would post my similar symptoms? Again....sorry...just thought i'd share my issues in hopes of trying to resolve it without the ability/reason to create another thread.....thank you

smai555

its cool man i just give all the newbies **** think of it as a hazing anyway when you turn the car on normally the CEL will come on you know what i mean?

cashoit

CPS and both CKPS from the JY??? I really hope u and Yota arent jus cheaping out on sensors. I would think u want a new CPS and CKPS. WOuld u replace an o2 sensor with another used one? Dont think so.

I can see buyin a used MAF, but those have a better track record than other used sensors.

Besides how did u clean the CPS and CKPS. Its a magnet and u dont want it to lose its magnetic properties. Dont scrape it. If u got another runnin max i would try to swap them to see if they work.

Ok i done with my rant

U guys may have an ECU problem. And its true..too much throwin money at parts and not enough diagnostic work.

I still say its something electrical. Somethin not tellin the ECU to start the car. Dont forget to check all harnesses too.

slow_yota

iTrader: (1)

I bought new ones from ebay, No used parts here..that'd just be silly.
I didnt replace the Crank sensor by the tranny though..

I wish it was just an ecu prob..That be more easier of a fix.
Ive given up on it till the weekend..I have no kerosene left and im not workin in the cold.

bgawad

iTrader: (8)

this happend to me a while back in my 1997. Heres what happened: I walk to my car, stick my hand through the window open my door then my alarm goes off. I thought w/e no big deal i went inside i got my keys put the key in the door and turned it and it went off. I get my wallet and then went out with my friends. Next day i go to start the car and it crankss every time i went to start but would not start. Scared the hell out of me because it sounded as if i had a starter under my hood with no engine, nothing was catching. Of course i begin to panic, then i thought about my alarm the previous day. I remembered how my dads navigator did this when the chip fell out of the key. But i new my car did not have a pats key. I brought it to the dealer and got a call the next day asking if my alarm ever went off shortly before the engine this incident. I told the dealership the story and he said ok and said thx. Next day i get a call to pick up my car..... came the next and it was perfect again. Turns out some of our maximas have an immbolizer that activates during certain situations. It's very hard to activate it but it does happen on few occasions. My dealer said he had to reprogram my ecu. I'm telling you my story to see if it will help you. If your security light stays on when you go to start your car... chances are you have the same problem. (btw when i had this problem i reset the battery, cleared the ecu and it still did not work, the dealer did something idk what)

slow_yota

iTrader: (1)

So i found something interesting tonight..I ordered a OBD-II scanner and it said that my Cam Pos Sensor was still malfunctioning..So I investigated it further and came across this after I removed some newly wrapped duct tape.
Any ideas.. ?

smai555

yea i would still check the sensor and that wiring i wish i cold be there to see it and get a better idea of that the person did to it

slow_yota

iTrader: (1)

yea maybe I will go to autozone and pick up an ac delco one and see if it makes a difference..These extra wires are def odd though and look like they have no place to go, Maybe just a coincidence ?

smai555

oh that is wire? i thought it was insulation..... you dont need to get a new sensor just test the ohms of the current one before you buy a 20-30 dollar part

edit* i think autozone will test it for you

slow_yota

iTrader: (1)

No that silver stuff is some sort of metal wire that looks like it should be attached..and autozone can test a sensor ?

smai555

they can test coils and some sensors i think... they just look up the ohms and test it with a multimeter

internetautomar

iTrader: (30)

it's shielding. it's there to suppress radio interference which could lead to errant signals

wesmantooth1

Following this thread with intensity, as I'm having same problem with my 97 GLE. Been at it for two days, and this site is a Godsend, btw. So far, expenses include a Digital Multimeter, one ignition coil (boot stuck in spark plug hole when trying to remove, tore it up trying to remove it).

TheRooki3

any update on this guys? (slow yota? wesmantooth?)

Me? (day off from work) took out the cluster...and yes...as i suspected...sombody took the bulbs (and holders) out of the check engine part and other bulbs out as well....*ugh* ...i placed the bulb in the check engine portion and i believe i got (correct me if i'm wrong....not too sure when the 4 digit sequence separates) 3711 and 3447 ...sound about right? if so then what does this mean (i'll be doing a search meanwhile)....

TheRooki3

oops....i'm looking at how to read codes (again noobie) so obviously those codes are wrong...but how i read them was 3(slow) 7(fast) 1(slow) 1(fast)...and of course 3(slow) 4(fast) 4(slow) 7(fast)

cashoit

Check the decoder thread at the top of the main page. afterwards post ur codes and let us kno

smai555

Code: P0130 | Description: Closed Loop Control

Code: P0340 | Description: Camshaft Position Sensor

Code: P0325 | Description: Knock Sensor

Code: P1335 | Description: Crankshaft Position Sensor (REF)


OOHH where to start ....... i would probably test clean the cam sensor and crank sensor the 02 and the knock sensor can wait untill you get it started but itll probably need to be replaced as well

TheRooki3

thanks guys...very appreciated...i got these sensors from the ol bone yard too (i know shame on me....probably the reason why those cars i stripped ended there in the first place) i'm going to head to autozone and pick up those now....just called for pricing (cam sensors about $60 and the crankshaft sensors about $30 or so) ....just so that i can see if it starts...

TheRooki3

Ok (writing from my blackberry) I just got the cam sensor ($61) and the crank position sensor ($85) from autozone with 2 year warranties....I get screwed? Anyways...gonna install them and let you guys know what happened..

internetautomar

iTrader: (30)

cam sensor lists for $76 at the dealer. Crank reference sensor lists for $98 at the dealer (front). rear crank sensor lists for $157 at the dealer.