eightball

Recently replaced my original equipment 95 Maxima MAF with an Ebay one that cost $84.99 from Ufixitauto.....

Yes, the engine jolting is gone that was being caused by the original, but the new one seems to cause minor engine surge at cruise, and rough idle at engine warm-up.

I also noticed that this Ufixitauto new MAF had a different design to the hot plate and sensor compared to my OEM nissan original. Instead of a little wire in the center that looks like a light bulb filament the new one has a little wire sticking out with a small roundish bead or bulb.

Anyway, I'm not throwing any P100 CEL's anymore, but I think this is probably a cheap Chinese knock-off.
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So I started a local search at my auto parts stores and Kragen's/O'Reilly's has a remanufactured MAF that actually uses the original Nissan casing, but is suppose to be voltage tested and rebuilt...........It is $219.00 with a $45.00 core charge to keep the price at $219.00.

Also, there is a remanufactured brand called standard, and another called Fuel Injection Corporation.
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I'm eyeing the A-1 Cardone part number 74-10035 as it has a 1 year or 18,000 mile warranty.

Anyone who could let me know if they have a Cardone remanu'd MAF, and if they performe alright.
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This one I bought from Ebay, just isn't cutting it for me. Again, when the engine is warming up, I feel minor hesitation, and the initial idle when cold sometimes wants to stall if I put it in gear to soon.

Also the exhaust at idle on warm-up has a rich mixture smell.
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cefiro a32

I just bought the same MAF from ebay and the thing sucks . My failing oem MAF works a whole lot better than the new Chinese MAF. I'm going to try the A-1 Cardone one first since it will be easy to return if it doesn't work. Otherwise I will buy a new one from Courtesy Nissan.

max ride 41

iTrader: (4)

im assuming you cleaned the maf before replacing it. i would go to a junkyard before buying a new one as you've allready seen the aftermarket sucks and the new one isnt cheap.

Mistertones

Does a failing MAF throw a CEL?

eightball

Good news!!:

Ufixiauto is accepting-back my $84.99 MAF sensor from ebay, and when they receive it via UPS will credit back the $$ to my PayPal account.

Secondly: I went down to O'Reilly/Kragens; our local auto parts store and picked up the A-1 Cardone for $219.00 with core charge included.

installed that baby in about 10 minutes and "Wa La!", I've got my old 1995 Maxima's smooth running engine back again.

Called Autozone, Pep boys, all around and O'Reilly/Kragens had the best price. Some of them sell the "Fuel Injection" brand rebuilt MAF, but don't know much about. It runs a little higher than the Cardon.

The Cardone is a rebuild, and uses the Nissan case and innards but is rebuilt and tested. The Ufixitauto one from Ebay had a different air sensor, and hot-plate inside the air chamber.

Anyway, the A-1 Cardone is working like my old one before it started acting-up.

Also, talked to numerous auto parts places and none had ever had a "return" on a Cardone MAF.

eightball

I've read on some threads that CELs don't always get thrown.

I had two thrown codes, but did have a OBD-2 ECU reader........P0100 = MAF sensor circuit, and P0325 = Knock sensor circuit.

Installing the Knock sensor was a bear. Didn't need to remove the two intake manifolds according to workshp manuals instructions. There is a thread here on the forum with pictures and instructions on how to remove and replace the knock sensor on our 4 generation maximas without so much labor time.

However, I sure got some raw knucles, and scratched-up arms doing it this way, but I saved lots of money in having a mechanic do it by removing the manifolds, and other major pieces as well as disconnecting many harness plugs.

Strangely, the Maxima didn't have a CEL until the day after it first did it's engine jolting episode. That's when I checked it out and came up with a knock sensor and MAF error. Don't know if the CEL was for both or for just one of the errors. Don't know if one of the errors had been imbedded for awhile and the other one was recent and generated the CEL?

eightball

Oh yes! I cleaned the original very carefully but thoroughly with MAF cleaner spray. It didn't throw any codes but about 2 days later, the engine starting jolting while on the freeway.

I don't think I'd try a junkyard one unless I had a guarantee to return it if it was defective.

My Ebay, cheapee was brand new, but my successful one was a rebuild but cost quite a bit more. At least I should recoup the cost of the ebay one as it should arrive in N.Y. via UPS this Monday and then the seller will credit back $84.99.

You can go on Cardone's main factory website and you will see that they are a pretty reputable operation, selling all kinds of rebuilds and new parts to the auto parts retailer.

I'm just happy that they used a Nissan core with the same sensor/hot plate setup that my original had.

max ride 41

iTrader: (4)

my 95 bm1 blue maf is original and has 200,395 miles and going strong!! i have no running issues right now, ( cross fingers ) but need new axle and engine and body work this year. my dad says i should get a new car, ( as if im gettin rid of my baby ). what he does'nt realize is that i got waaaayyy too much into maxy and i cant bear to part with her even with all the shiz i need to do!! he's crazie!!!!!

nissan4life12359

Oh Boy, I just ordered a Maxima MAF from eBay seller ufixitauto today for $84.95, Then I read this thread, I contacted the seller to cancel my order but the item was already shipped, The seller assured me that he has sold many with very few defects and has a 2 year warranty to back it up, I guess since it is on my way I will install it and see what happens, I'll keep everyone posted

eightball

I'm the one who sent back the Ufixitauto MAF for my 95 Maxima.

Maybe I got a bad one, and you'll get one that works ok.

You will notice though, when you look at the interior or air chamber of the Ebay MAF it doesn't look anything like your original Nissan OEM MAF in design. The outer casing is the same with the matching plug receptacle, but the little sensor thingy and the metal plate that's suppose to heat up is a very, very different design.

My Cardone one was rebuilt off of a Nissan Casing, and had the identical sensor/metal plate design in the air flow chamber. The outside or body of the Cardone MAF still has the Nissan raised logo on it. The Ufixitauto one did not have any Nissan logo in the outside plastic casing.

You could also see that the Cardone has been rebuilt as the upper square box on the MAF had some new silicon sealer on the plastic lid that apparently encloses the some electronics innards.

Hope your Ebay one turns out better than mine.

Will say that Ufixitauto was very good about taking the defective one back.

Seems that the Ebay one "worked" but just didn't operate the engine smoothly as my original had before acting-up.

I noticed with the Ebay one that cold engine startup was not good. The first couple days after installation was ok, but then cold startup became started to have a rough initial idle that sometimes stalled. Then I'd restart the engine and the idle would smooth-out. Driving down the street, it seemed like accelleration was not smooth but surged and let-up minutely. Touching the accellerator from a stopped position seemed rather overly sensitive, and caused a minor Jack-rabbit start, and then sometimes a minor let-up in engine power.

All in all, I kept my fingers crossed and hoped that this was the Ufixitauto MAF and not another problem.

Buying the Cardone made all the difference. Cold starts don't stall, and the initial cold idle is smooth, and engine warmup driving seems like the way the old Maxima used to drive before the P0100 code and sporatic engine jolting at different speeds.

cashoit

Let us know how the Ebay MAF works out.


I wdnt trust an EBay MAF. I understand its much cheaper but hearing tha its a Chinese knock-off makes me so leery.

Autozone has em reman. They basically replace and resolder the inside wire. THats basically a new MAF if u ask me.


EDit:

O and if it doesnt work u can always return back to autozone. Not a bad deal at all

eightball

I think the Autozone ones are made by Fuel Injection Corporation.

The Kragen's one I purchased was an A-1 Cardone.

Results: So far the Cardone has been a dream. The other day, I had to goose the throttle in traffic, and "wow!" the accelleration was great! It actually surprised me.

As for the Ebay MAF from Ufixitauto, it is officially returned, and the seller credited back my purchase to Paypal, and I transfered that money back to my credit card/account.

Despite the defective MAF, the Ufixitauto seller was most courteous, and prompt in refunding.

As for buying an OEM MAF for under $100.00 from anyone, I don't think I'll do that again.

Cardone rebuilds them, and so does Fuel Injection Corporation, and these two MAFs seem to use the old Nissan Core and innards. The Cheapy Ebay new one looked the same on the outside, but the sensor in the air chamber was totally different from the OEM Nissan ones used by Cardone and Fuel Injection Inc.

I did buy a knock sensor from an ebay seller, and I don't think you can too wrong with that device. It's so simple.

Also I thank God that someone on this forum had a less costly method of installing the 4th generation Maxima knock sensor. I didn't have to pull the intake manifolds as Haynes and Nissan directed. However, I did earn some raw knuckles, and scratched-up arms doing it the less costly way.

cashoit

Its less expensive but much more bloody lol.

Edit:

The autozone here sells cardone. They also take the old MAF as a core charge. THats good if they are taking the old MAFs and reman them. I wonder if we cd jus contact the company to do it for us

nissan4life12359

I received the MAF from ufixitauto a few days after I ordered I have been using for almost 3 weeks now and my car is running perfect, hope it lasts

eightball

I do hope your ufixitauto MAF does give you continued good results. It just didn't work for me.

So far my A1 Cardone Remanufactured MAF has been doing fine. However it did cost me more than the ufixitauto one I sent back.

I will say again that ufixitauto was very good about receiving-back the defective MAF, and sending a refund to my paypal account quickly. Paypal in turn sent those funds back to my card account used for the purchase.

Eric Fleming

I used electrical contact cleaner and a Q-Tip and very carefully cleaned my MAF and my rough idle went away.

FallenOne

iTrader: (17)

Although this Post is Relavant, Its an Old Thread. Please don't bump old threads. Thank you and have a nice day

eightball

My A1 Cardone MAF is still working fine.

I did purchase MAF sensor cleaner and carefully followed their instructions, but to no-avail with my original MAF.

The Ebay MAF was the next move, and it was defective. The A1 Cardone was the one that worked. Also the Cardone MAF was identical to my OEM defective Nissan one. The Ebay MAF had a different design to the sensor wire area.

Also, just did my California smog test for the Maxima's registration. The emissions numbers came out very good for a engine with 160k + miles! Yes, it passed.

ajm8127

iTrader: (8)

I bought a Cardone MAF as well, and it cured my rough idle and random loss of power problem. The car runs great with it.

PA97Maxima

A1 Cardone, I thought I would never hear that name again . If you're buying from A&A auto, AZ, Napa, O'Reilly, etc than most of their parts are Cardone just repackaged or relabeled.

FallenOne

iTrader: (17)

kel456

why not bump an old thread. it's a good reading info.

maximus_2

@eightball -do you remember who on the forum had the easiest way getting to that knock sensor?

luke95gxe

iTrader: (4)

here ya go



http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...them-here.html

right in post #1 there is to video links

eightball

Can't pull up who posted that "alternative way to remove/install knock sensor" thread, but boy oh boy did that save me a bundle of $$$.

However, plan on some bruised, scratched-up fingers/knuckles.

Basically, I removed hoses and other things that impeded access to the valley area of the engine; under the intake manifold. With that done, I was able to work a wrench under the intake manifold and drop it over the bolt-head that secures the knock sensor to the engine block. From there it involved short swings of the wrench(due to limited room) to loosen the bolt. If you have real big fingers/hands you will have a harder time as you must force your hand at a tight angle to reach the loosened knock sensor. The reverse process is done with the new sensor. I found that getting that sensor bolt back in was harder that removing it as now I really had to get my fingers in there to make sure the bolt was threading properly.

Never the less, this is what I saved in labor time. The work manuals instruct to remove the intake manifold to access the sensor. That involves a lot of disconnected parts that have to be kept track-of. Also installing the manifold involves proper torqueing, new gaskets too. Also the chance of breaking something critical is increased.

Anyway, I figure I saved $600.-$800.00.

My cost? One knock sensor.......very cheap, and some banged-up hands/knuckles and lower arm area(scratches/scrapes/bruises)

Oh, one last thing. You go after the knock sensor from the right side of the intake manifold.(Right side as in standing in front of your Maxima with hood open and to your right.).