'99 A/C Compressor Bearing Failure
05-25-2010, 12:47 PM
#41
Member
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Kannapolis, NC
Posts: 236
Well the whole idea of just replacing the bearing as opposed to the whole compressor, is that you dont have to evac and recharge the system. Removing the compressor to work on it in your garage would require doing just that. We're all just trying to save a buck, and the hassle that entails. Not that this is in anyway hassle free. Quite the opposite.
05-25-2010, 02:18 PM
#42
Ok here are some pics of what i used. I'll just link to them since i didnt feel like resizing.
This is the wrench i used. Rented from Autozone
This is the extractor bolt. Also rented from autozone.
Bolts/washers/nuts
Finished product
Yes the bolts are bent. Like i said earlier, i ended up bending the wrench and the bolts. Clutch plate just didnt want to come off. Again this wasnt easy to do with it being on the car. Its a pain to get everything lined up, but its the best i could come up with, and it at least got it started coming off.
This is the wrench i used. Rented from Autozone
This is the extractor bolt. Also rented from autozone.
Bolts/washers/nuts
Finished product
Yes the bolts are bent. Like i said earlier, i ended up bending the wrench and the bolts. Clutch plate just didnt want to come off. Again this wasnt easy to do with it being on the car. Its a pain to get everything lined up, but its the best i could come up with, and it at least got it started coming off.
This is great. Thanks for the addition of the photos. So you were able to get it off with this setup and the clutch plate did not bend? When you reassembled and tested the A/C, did the clutch engage and disengage properly without any rubbing or contacting the compressor?
05-25-2010, 08:37 PM
#43
Member
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Kannapolis, NC
Posts: 236
This is great. Thanks for the addition of the photos. So you were able to get it off with this setup and the clutch plate did not bend? When you reassembled and tested the A/C, did the clutch engage and disengage properly without any rubbing or contacting the compressor?
05-25-2010, 08:42 PM
#44
That setup allowed me to pull the clutch plate out partway. I had to use a prybar to pull it most of the rest of the way. Then i had to wiggle it with my hand. It doesnt appear to be bent at all. I havent gotten it back together yet. Actually I havent even ordered my bearing. Gonna do that tomorrow probably. I actually have other issues too. I bent my pulley trying to pull it off. So i have to see if i can sufficiently bend the back rib back into shape. If I cant, I'm pretty boned. I'd have to find another '99 compressor to get it from. I just have to keep telling myself that I'm saving HUNDREDS of dollars doing it this way.
+1. Trust me man, I feel your pain and I had the same motivation driving me too...saving hundreds. But if we can't get the proper tools for the job, then this may not be worth it. I may just end up hunting down the proper Kent-Moore tool for this job. That is the problem everyone is experiencing here. Keep us posted on your replacement and take a pic after the clutch is reassembled.
05-25-2010, 09:11 PM
#45
Member
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Kannapolis, NC
Posts: 236
+1. Trust me man, I feel your pain and I had the same motivation driving me too...saving hundreds. But if we can't get the proper tools for the job, then this may not be worth it. I may just end up hunting down the proper Kent-Moore tool for this job. That is the problem everyone is experiencing here. Keep us posted on your replacement and take a pic after the clutch is reassembled.
05-27-2010, 05:24 PM
#46
this 36in belt with 6 grooves to by pass the compressor, what vehicle is that from? i know if i go to o'reilly's or auto zone and say "i want a 36in belt with 6 grooves" they'll look at me like if i'm stupid. the workers at the auto parts stores here arent that car knowledgeable...
i definitely hear you on that. i would do whatever to save a few bucks...
Well the whole idea of just replacing the bearing as opposed to the whole compressor, is that you dont have to evac and recharge the system. Removing the compressor to work on it in your garage would require doing just that. We're all just trying to save a buck, and the hassle that entails. Not that this is in anyway hassle free. Quite the opposite.
05-27-2010, 08:00 PM
#47
Member
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Kannapolis, NC
Posts: 236
this 36in belt with 6 grooves to by pass the compressor, what vehicle is that from? i know if i go to o'reilly's or auto zone and say "i want a 36in belt with 6 grooves" they'll look at me like if i'm stupid. the workers at the auto parts stores here arent that car knowledgeable...
05-28-2010, 05:25 PM
#48
Just go into autozone and ask for a Duralast 360K6 belt. They'll look to make sure they have it in stock and then they'll grab it for you. Never asked me what car it was from. If they do give you some lip, just tell them your bypassing the ac and dont need the standard belt. Heck, they might even have a listing for a maxima belt without AC. You can still order cars without it. Or at least you used to be able too.
05-28-2010, 06:05 PM
#49
Junior Member
Join Date: Apr 2010
Posts: 16
kent moore tool not complete
Hi, I just did this to my 97 a few weeks ago. Bpught the tool cheap then made the "hooks" by cutting the heads off three bolts and dremeling a contour into their shanl. It worked fine - I also put a screw behind them so they could not back out. You'll need a gear puller too, preferably a 2 prong or you need to take the compressor off the bracket like I did with a three prong. After having the tool made and a neighbor with a 20 ton press it was about an hour. The bearing for mine was a 40x62x20 if I recall. Ordered it from Houston Bearing.
bob
bob
06-14-2010, 10:03 AM
#50
Member
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Kannapolis, NC
Posts: 236
Just a small lame update. I have a 99 max which has the Calsonic v618 compressor. Model # 92600 2Y000 (2w600 45010). Serial 8k202002.
I dont know if there is more than one version of this compressor or what. But i ordered my bearing using the info from the writeup which says it uses a standard ball bearing that is 40x62x24. That bearing is too big. The bearing in mine is actually 35x55x20. Just wanted to give any of ya'll still planning this a heads up. Save yourself the headache and either measure it first or take it to a shop or supply place and have them measure it for you. I know I'm not the first person to order the wrong one the first time around.
I dont know if there is more than one version of this compressor or what. But i ordered my bearing using the info from the writeup which says it uses a standard ball bearing that is 40x62x24. That bearing is too big. The bearing in mine is actually 35x55x20. Just wanted to give any of ya'll still planning this a heads up. Save yourself the headache and either measure it first or take it to a shop or supply place and have them measure it for you. I know I'm not the first person to order the wrong one the first time around.
06-14-2010, 08:56 PM
#51
Just a small lame update. I have a 99 max which has the Calsonic v618 compressor. Model # 92600 2Y000 (2w600 45010). Serial 8k202002.
I dont know if there is more than one version of this compressor or what. But i ordered my bearing using the info from the writeup which says it uses a standard ball bearing that is 40x62x24. That bearing is too big. The bearing in mine is actually 35x55x20. Just wanted to give any of ya'll still planning this a heads up. Save yourself the headache and either measure it first or take it to a shop or supply place and have them measure it for you. I know I'm not the first person to order the wrong one the first time around.
I dont know if there is more than one version of this compressor or what. But i ordered my bearing using the info from the writeup which says it uses a standard ball bearing that is 40x62x24. That bearing is too big. The bearing in mine is actually 35x55x20. Just wanted to give any of ya'll still planning this a heads up. Save yourself the headache and either measure it first or take it to a shop or supply place and have them measure it for you. I know I'm not the first person to order the wrong one the first time around.
06-22-2010, 04:11 PM
#53
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: May 2009
Posts: 1
Thanks for all the great info in this thread. I have done some searches and read some older posts also.
I have a 96, and noticed a bearing making noise back in Feb. I bought a new belt and tensioner from Nissan, only to find I diagnosed it incorrectly, and it was the AC Comp Clutch bearing (noise goes away when I turn the AC on). I read a much older thread here and bought a bybass belt (Dayco Poly Rib #5060360 for a 2.3L Ford).
Well, now it's almost a hundred freaking degres here in Jersey, so here I am back again. I put the Nissan belt back on today. Bearing is noisy, but my AC kicks.
Does anyone know how long I might have before it seizes up, and smokes the belt? I'll keep a 14mm wrench, and the bypass belt in the trunk for when it does. I can live with the noise if it gets me through Sept, then put the bypass belt back on.
I know 1996 is probably not enough info, I will look at the #s on the compressor tomorrow, but is there a part # and vendor available for the bearing I will need? Should I order the bearing ahead of time??...or wait to see whether I can get the clutch assy off the compressor? I would hate to try it now and screw it up when my air still works great, but I would imagine it would be too late to try a bearing change once the compressor seizes up.
Sorry for the long post. I was hopong there would be a recent thread on this subject. Any input would be appreciated. Thanks again for all the great info available at this forum!
I have a 96, and noticed a bearing making noise back in Feb. I bought a new belt and tensioner from Nissan, only to find I diagnosed it incorrectly, and it was the AC Comp Clutch bearing (noise goes away when I turn the AC on). I read a much older thread here and bought a bybass belt (Dayco Poly Rib #5060360 for a 2.3L Ford).
Well, now it's almost a hundred freaking degres here in Jersey, so here I am back again. I put the Nissan belt back on today. Bearing is noisy, but my AC kicks.
Does anyone know how long I might have before it seizes up, and smokes the belt? I'll keep a 14mm wrench, and the bypass belt in the trunk for when it does. I can live with the noise if it gets me through Sept, then put the bypass belt back on.
I know 1996 is probably not enough info, I will look at the #s on the compressor tomorrow, but is there a part # and vendor available for the bearing I will need? Should I order the bearing ahead of time??...or wait to see whether I can get the clutch assy off the compressor? I would hate to try it now and screw it up when my air still works great, but I would imagine it would be too late to try a bearing change once the compressor seizes up.
Sorry for the long post. I was hopong there would be a recent thread on this subject. Any input would be appreciated. Thanks again for all the great info available at this forum!
06-22-2010, 04:18 PM
#54
Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Tempe, Az
Posts: 73
Mine has been making noise for a little over a year. I read somewhere someone said they went "YEARS" without changing it. I think it really just depends on how badly the bearing is grinding/making noise.
It is kinda just like a ticking time bomb...
It is kinda just like a ticking time bomb...
06-25-2010, 07:48 PM
#55
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: May 2008
Posts: 5
check out this thread...
http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generation-maxima-1995-1999/379856-who-has-experience-ac-compressor-clutch.html
I drove over a flooded road and about a day or two after, I heard the squealing. I found the thread above and am in the middle of doing the job. The reason for my squealing was that water got into the A/C clutch assembly and into the bearing. This caused rust and then the bearing went and the result is/was the squealing. This issue is extensively described in the thread. I highly suggest you read the tread listed above, but pay close attention to their description of the symptoms. If you feel that their symptoms match yours, I can assure that you will no longer be looking for an answer to your problem because it will be the A/C compressor bearing.
I took their advice and got a belt that bypassed the A/C compressor (this was in late winter). Since it has been quite hot and humid, I decided to begin the project tonight. I was able to take the clutch assembly off and then I was able to pull the pulley/bearing off using a two prong puller. The clutch assemble was a pain, but I used info from another thread to do that. I took one of the bolts from the idler pulley assembly and placed it in one of the holes on the clutch wheel. I then positioned a long screw driver in between the body of the car and the screw. This allowed me to to stop the motion of the clutch wheel and loosen the center, 10mm bolt. I then used a flat head screw driver to carefully pry around the clutch wheel and it eventually came off. At this point, I could see the bearing (the culprit). The problem was there was a retaining pin holding the bearing around the center spindle. Since I didn't have a retaining clip tool, I used an awl and pryed one of the sides of the clip until it hung over the edge of the bearing. I was lucky and was able to flip it around the edge of the bearing without damaging it. I read another thread about someone who damaged this retaining ring and I can see why. I then removed the plastic fender cover (should have done this earlier) and turned the front wheels all the way to the right. This exposed the compressor pulley/bearing assembly. I hooked the prongs of a two-prong puller around the outer rim of the pulley wheel, attached a socket to the center nut and pulled the pulley wheel/bearing assembly of the center hub. The brainchild behind the thread listed above (skyjumper) mentioned that he was able to pry the pulley/bearing assembly off with his hands...I don't know how that happened! It would have been impossible to get off without the two-prong pulley.
So, I am now going to try to find a replacement bearing. I will check partsamerica.com and some other places. Once I buy the replacement, I will find a shop to extract the old one and press in the new one. I will go out on a limb and say the reassembly should be quite easy and then I won’t be sweating in this August type weather we are experiencing.
I have pictures of some of the techniques that I used, but I do not know how to post pics here and am not going to spend the time to find out, unless someone tells me how. If you provide me with an email address, I can send them to you.
-Chris
I drove over a flooded road and about a day or two after, I heard the squealing. I found the thread above and am in the middle of doing the job. The reason for my squealing was that water got into the A/C clutch assembly and into the bearing. This caused rust and then the bearing went and the result is/was the squealing. This issue is extensively described in the thread. I highly suggest you read the tread listed above, but pay close attention to their description of the symptoms. If you feel that their symptoms match yours, I can assure that you will no longer be looking for an answer to your problem because it will be the A/C compressor bearing.
I took their advice and got a belt that bypassed the A/C compressor (this was in late winter). Since it has been quite hot and humid, I decided to begin the project tonight. I was able to take the clutch assembly off and then I was able to pull the pulley/bearing off using a two prong puller. The clutch assemble was a pain, but I used info from another thread to do that. I took one of the bolts from the idler pulley assembly and placed it in one of the holes on the clutch wheel. I then positioned a long screw driver in between the body of the car and the screw. This allowed me to to stop the motion of the clutch wheel and loosen the center, 10mm bolt. I then used a flat head screw driver to carefully pry around the clutch wheel and it eventually came off. At this point, I could see the bearing (the culprit). The problem was there was a retaining pin holding the bearing around the center spindle. Since I didn't have a retaining clip tool, I used an awl and pryed one of the sides of the clip until it hung over the edge of the bearing. I was lucky and was able to flip it around the edge of the bearing without damaging it. I read another thread about someone who damaged this retaining ring and I can see why. I then removed the plastic fender cover (should have done this earlier) and turned the front wheels all the way to the right. This exposed the compressor pulley/bearing assembly. I hooked the prongs of a two-prong puller around the outer rim of the pulley wheel, attached a socket to the center nut and pulled the pulley wheel/bearing assembly of the center hub. The brainchild behind the thread listed above (skyjumper) mentioned that he was able to pry the pulley/bearing assembly off with his hands...I don't know how that happened! It would have been impossible to get off without the two-prong pulley.
So, I am now going to try to find a replacement bearing. I will check partsamerica.com and some other places. Once I buy the replacement, I will find a shop to extract the old one and press in the new one. I will go out on a limb and say the reassembly should be quite easy and then I won’t be sweating in this August type weather we are experiencing.
I have pictures of some of the techniques that I used, but I do not know how to post pics here and am not going to spend the time to find out, unless someone tells me how. If you provide me with an email address, I can send them to you.
-Chris
06-26-2010, 09:20 AM
#56
If you want, I can fix your car for you. I've replaced my a/c compressor on my 99. I'm in northern nj. Shoot me a pm.
Thanks for all the great info in this thread. I have done some searches and read some older posts also.
I have a 96, and noticed a bearing making noise back in Feb. I bought a new belt and tensioner from Nissan, only to find I diagnosed it incorrectly, and it was the AC Comp Clutch bearing (noise goes away when I turn the AC on). I read a much older thread here and bought a bybass belt (Dayco Poly Rib #5060360 for a 2.3L Ford).
Well, now it's almost a hundred freaking degres here in Jersey, so here I am back again. I put the Nissan belt back on today. Bearing is noisy, but my AC kicks.
Does anyone know how long I might have before it seizes up, and smokes the belt? I'll keep a 14mm wrench, and the bypass belt in the trunk for when it does. I can live with the noise if it gets me through Sept, then put the bypass belt back on.
I know 1996 is probably not enough info, I will look at the #s on the compressor tomorrow, but is there a part # and vendor available for the bearing I will need? Should I order the bearing ahead of time??...or wait to see whether I can get the clutch assy off the compressor? I would hate to try it now and screw it up when my air still works great, but I would imagine it would be too late to try a bearing change once the compressor seizes up.
Sorry for the long post. I was hopong there would be a recent thread on this subject. Any input would be appreciated. Thanks again for all the great info available at this forum!
I have a 96, and noticed a bearing making noise back in Feb. I bought a new belt and tensioner from Nissan, only to find I diagnosed it incorrectly, and it was the AC Comp Clutch bearing (noise goes away when I turn the AC on). I read a much older thread here and bought a bybass belt (Dayco Poly Rib #5060360 for a 2.3L Ford).
Well, now it's almost a hundred freaking degres here in Jersey, so here I am back again. I put the Nissan belt back on today. Bearing is noisy, but my AC kicks.
Does anyone know how long I might have before it seizes up, and smokes the belt? I'll keep a 14mm wrench, and the bypass belt in the trunk for when it does. I can live with the noise if it gets me through Sept, then put the bypass belt back on.
I know 1996 is probably not enough info, I will look at the #s on the compressor tomorrow, but is there a part # and vendor available for the bearing I will need? Should I order the bearing ahead of time??...or wait to see whether I can get the clutch assy off the compressor? I would hate to try it now and screw it up when my air still works great, but I would imagine it would be too late to try a bearing change once the compressor seizes up.
Sorry for the long post. I was hopong there would be a recent thread on this subject. Any input would be appreciated. Thanks again for all the great info available at this forum!
08-18-2010, 06:48 AM
#57
Just a small lame update. I have a 99 max which has the Calsonic v618 compressor. Model # 92600 2Y000 (2w600 45010). Serial 8k202002.
I dont know if there is more than one version of this compressor or what. But i ordered my bearing using the info from the writeup which says it uses a standard ball bearing that is 40x62x24. That bearing is too big. The bearing in mine is actually 35x55x20. Just wanted to give any of ya'll still planning this a heads up. Save yourself the headache and either measure it first or take it to a shop or supply place and have them measure it for you. I know I'm not the first person to order the wrong one the first time around.
I dont know if there is more than one version of this compressor or what. But i ordered my bearing using the info from the writeup which says it uses a standard ball bearing that is 40x62x24. That bearing is too big. The bearing in mine is actually 35x55x20. Just wanted to give any of ya'll still planning this a heads up. Save yourself the headache and either measure it first or take it to a shop or supply place and have them measure it for you. I know I'm not the first person to order the wrong one the first time around.
Anyways, I have something that I found interesting. I called up my parts man at the Nissan dealership and asked him a favor to ask the mechanics if they have a tool to remove it. The mechanic says that there is no tool for it. Once you remove the screw, its suppose to slide off on its own. There was one person I read on here when he replaced his, it came right off. The reason we are having such difficulty is because of water rusting it on there.
What I am thinking of doing on this second compressor is soak it down with penetrating fluid for a week straight until the weekend and tap gently with a hammer and try removing it to see if it will come off on its own. If not, I may use a little heat on it as well.
08-18-2010, 07:34 AM
#58
Member
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Kannapolis, NC
Posts: 236
[QUOTE=Trini Boom;7696564]Did you get to complete the repair??
Unfortunatly not. I got the bearing sitting in my living room. But I've had to drop like $1800 on other car stuff in the past 2-3 months. To the point where I really cant afford to fix something that isnt absolutly necesary. It sucks because this has been one of the hottest summers. It also sucks when its raining. The defrost doesnt work so well without the Ac. i have to adjust the temp over to the hot side to get the the window to defog. Which is lots of fun when its 95deg and humid while raining so the windows are up.
Hope you get your idea to work.
Unfortunatly not. I got the bearing sitting in my living room. But I've had to drop like $1800 on other car stuff in the past 2-3 months. To the point where I really cant afford to fix something that isnt absolutly necesary. It sucks because this has been one of the hottest summers. It also sucks when its raining. The defrost doesnt work so well without the Ac. i have to adjust the temp over to the hot side to get the the window to defog. Which is lots of fun when its 95deg and humid while raining so the windows are up.
Hope you get your idea to work.
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