CEL code for Knock sensor & rare no crank-start
07-31-2010, 06:48 PM
#1
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Western Pennsylvania
Posts: 181
CEL code for Knock sensor & rare no crank-start
I've recently purchased my maxima, and am going over every little nook and cranny making sure it will last for a good long time.
I've read the FAQs and applied my new-found knowledge to fixing a few minor neglect problems, but my cars computer is telling me another story. The only code it throws at me is 03 04. Now I've been reading around the forums the past few days and can't quite figure out if it actually is the KS, or a "ghost" code, (I have absolutely no car knowledge aside this forum). I have an emissions/inspection coming up and i've heard it won't pass with a KS failure on the computer.Any input from an experienced max owner would be highly welcomed.
The car runs like a dream, aside from a few rough starts (I think it was because PO filled with low octane gas, it was his sons car, octane booster has since alleviated that problem *i hope*) The car would fool you into thinking it doesn't have 150k miles on it. I absolutely love driving it, I kind of get depressed driving around the daily driver (Focus).
Now to a different and painful matter;
The one problem that restricts this car from being my DD is something that has happened very infrequently and is frightening. Driving (to hopefully new employment) about 40 miles and shutting the car off in a parking lot, it would NOT crank at all.
The dash would light, Odometer would show mileage and the clock would come on but as i turned the key to Start, the engine would give nothing. The starter would not crank at all, no sounds of a struggle, just nothing.
BUT if you let the car sit for 3-4 hours, it will start again. Very odd. It is an intermittent problem and hard to replicate, but something I fear to replicate anyway, cost me $130 in towing already. The thing is, the car, once up and running, like i said previously runs like a dream. Doesn't misfire, no idle problems, doesn't hunt and peck for gears.
I've been searching for the better part of a week and Haven't run across anyone else having such a bastard of a problem. Any ideas here would be a real help. I really want to get this car up and running as my daily driver.
Things we've checked;
Starter wiring;
nearly every ground in the engine bay has been checked and cleaned;
TB and adjacent areas;
Fuel Filter;
MAF;
PCV valve (Planning on replacing soon)
Intake air temp sensor
The battery, terminals and amps.
And for general knowledge, the PO had recently put new wheels, axles brakes, rotors on.
We plan on checking the injectors/coils/plugs soon. But i don't think they'd cause a no-crank situation...
The computer throws no code to me except the knock sensor.
I've read the FAQs and applied my new-found knowledge to fixing a few minor neglect problems, but my cars computer is telling me another story. The only code it throws at me is 03 04. Now I've been reading around the forums the past few days and can't quite figure out if it actually is the KS, or a "ghost" code, (I have absolutely no car knowledge aside this forum). I have an emissions/inspection coming up and i've heard it won't pass with a KS failure on the computer.Any input from an experienced max owner would be highly welcomed.
The car runs like a dream, aside from a few rough starts (I think it was because PO filled with low octane gas, it was his sons car, octane booster has since alleviated that problem *i hope*) The car would fool you into thinking it doesn't have 150k miles on it. I absolutely love driving it, I kind of get depressed driving around the daily driver (Focus).
Now to a different and painful matter;
The one problem that restricts this car from being my DD is something that has happened very infrequently and is frightening. Driving (to hopefully new employment) about 40 miles and shutting the car off in a parking lot, it would NOT crank at all.
The dash would light, Odometer would show mileage and the clock would come on but as i turned the key to Start, the engine would give nothing. The starter would not crank at all, no sounds of a struggle, just nothing.
BUT if you let the car sit for 3-4 hours, it will start again. Very odd. It is an intermittent problem and hard to replicate, but something I fear to replicate anyway, cost me $130 in towing already. The thing is, the car, once up and running, like i said previously runs like a dream. Doesn't misfire, no idle problems, doesn't hunt and peck for gears.
I've been searching for the better part of a week and Haven't run across anyone else having such a bastard of a problem. Any ideas here would be a real help. I really want to get this car up and running as my daily driver.
Things we've checked;
Starter wiring;
nearly every ground in the engine bay has been checked and cleaned;
TB and adjacent areas;
Fuel Filter;
MAF;
PCV valve (Planning on replacing soon)
Intake air temp sensor
The battery, terminals and amps.
And for general knowledge, the PO had recently put new wheels, axles brakes, rotors on.
We plan on checking the injectors/coils/plugs soon. But i don't think they'd cause a no-crank situation...
The computer throws no code to me except the knock sensor.
Last edited by 5150pa; 07-31-2010 at 07:03 PM.
07-31-2010, 07:11 PM
#3
I've recently purchased my maxima, and am going over every little nook and cranny making sure it will last for a good long time.
I've read the FAQs and applied my new-found knowledge to fixing a few minor neglect problems, but my cars computer is telling me another story. The only code it throws at me is 03 04. Now I've been reading around the forums the past few days and can't quite figure out if it actually is the KS, or a "ghost" code, (I have absolutely no car knowledge aside this forum). I have an emissions/inspection coming up and i've heard it won't pass with a KS failure on the computer.Any input from an experienced max owner would be highly welcomed.
The car runs like a dream, aside from a few rough starts (I think it was because PO filled with low octane gas, it was his sons car, octane booster has since alleviated that problem *i hope*) The car would fool you into thinking it doesn't have 150k miles on it. I absolutely love driving it, I kind of get depressed driving around the daily driver (Focus).
Now to a different and painful matter;
The one problem that restricts this car from being my DD is something that has happened very infrequently and is frightening. Driving (to hopefully new employment) about 40 miles and shutting the car off in a parking lot, it would NOT crank at all.
The dash would light, Odometer would show mileage and the clock would come on but as i turned the key to Start, the engine would give nothing. The starter would not crank at all, no sounds of a struggle, just nothing.
BUT if you let the car sit for 3-4 hours, it will start again. Very odd. It is an intermittent problem and hard to replicate, but something I fear to replicate anyway, cost me $130 in towing already. The thing is, the car, once up and running, like i said previously runs like a dream. Doesn't misfire, no idle problems, doesn't hunt and peck for gears.
I've been searching for the better part of a week and Haven't run across anyone else having such a bastard of a problem. Any ideas here would be a real help. I really want to get this car up and running as my daily driver.
Things we've checked;
Starter wiring;
nearly every ground in the engine bay has been checked and cleaned;
TB and adjacent areas;
Fuel Filter;
MAF;
PCV valve (Planning on replacing soon)
Intake air temp sensor
The battery, terminals and amps.
And for general knowledge, the PO had recently put new wheels, axles brakes, rotors on.
We plan on checking the injectors/coils/plugs soon. But i don't think they'd cause a no-crank situation...
The computer throws no code to me except the knock sensor.
I've read the FAQs and applied my new-found knowledge to fixing a few minor neglect problems, but my cars computer is telling me another story. The only code it throws at me is 03 04. Now I've been reading around the forums the past few days and can't quite figure out if it actually is the KS, or a "ghost" code, (I have absolutely no car knowledge aside this forum). I have an emissions/inspection coming up and i've heard it won't pass with a KS failure on the computer.Any input from an experienced max owner would be highly welcomed.
The car runs like a dream, aside from a few rough starts (I think it was because PO filled with low octane gas, it was his sons car, octane booster has since alleviated that problem *i hope*) The car would fool you into thinking it doesn't have 150k miles on it. I absolutely love driving it, I kind of get depressed driving around the daily driver (Focus).
Now to a different and painful matter;
The one problem that restricts this car from being my DD is something that has happened very infrequently and is frightening. Driving (to hopefully new employment) about 40 miles and shutting the car off in a parking lot, it would NOT crank at all.
The dash would light, Odometer would show mileage and the clock would come on but as i turned the key to Start, the engine would give nothing. The starter would not crank at all, no sounds of a struggle, just nothing.
BUT if you let the car sit for 3-4 hours, it will start again. Very odd. It is an intermittent problem and hard to replicate, but something I fear to replicate anyway, cost me $130 in towing already. The thing is, the car, once up and running, like i said previously runs like a dream. Doesn't misfire, no idle problems, doesn't hunt and peck for gears.
I've been searching for the better part of a week and Haven't run across anyone else having such a bastard of a problem. Any ideas here would be a real help. I really want to get this car up and running as my daily driver.
Things we've checked;
Starter wiring;
nearly every ground in the engine bay has been checked and cleaned;
TB and adjacent areas;
Fuel Filter;
MAF;
PCV valve (Planning on replacing soon)
Intake air temp sensor
The battery, terminals and amps.
And for general knowledge, the PO had recently put new wheels, axles brakes, rotors on.
We plan on checking the injectors/coils/plugs soon. But i don't think they'd cause a no-crank situation...
The computer throws no code to me except the knock sensor.
07-31-2010, 07:34 PM
#4
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Western Pennsylvania
Posts: 181
My uncle(mechanic) had suspected the grounds, but is too overwhelmed to take my car in to for a checkover, So we had checked everything to and from the starter cleaned the wires on the solenoid, but never removed it. The starter itself sounds fine, i have a few audio clips of the car trying to start if that would help diagnosis.
Should i replace the whole ignition switch? (Does the switch come with the wire you're talking about?) Nice to see certainty, no one that has looked at it had any solid ideas.
07-31-2010, 07:40 PM
#5
Yes, I was referring to the ignition switch. Even I just seen AutoZone has it on lifetime warranty for less than $40.
07-31-2010, 07:43 PM
#6
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Western Pennsylvania
Posts: 181
Any ideas on what is throwing that knock sensor code? The only thing that was coming to mind, was the low octane fuel causing goofy things to happen in the engine. 91+ from now on.
Am about to pick one up over at amazon; as the ones AvA sell for 138...
Link
Edit: I should also state that while running there is no CEL. Only when i do the self-diagnostic do i get the Knock sensor code.
Last edited by 5150pa; 07-31-2010 at 08:37 PM.
08-01-2010, 06:25 AM
#7
Congrats on the new max, i'm reletively new to the club myself but have already changed out the engine.
I know this may sound like a no brainer, but have you checked the battery. Cleaned the terrminals and had it load tested? I would do this regarless, it never hurts to know for sure your battery is in good shape.
My money would be on the starter too, sometimes the brushes can get stuck, the old tapping trick may solve this from time to time. I got a starter from a junk yard and it works great.
I know this may sound like a no brainer, but have you checked the battery. Cleaned the terrminals and had it load tested? I would do this regarless, it never hurts to know for sure your battery is in good shape.
My money would be on the starter too, sometimes the brushes can get stuck, the old tapping trick may solve this from time to time. I got a starter from a junk yard and it works great.
08-01-2010, 08:54 AM
#8
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Western Pennsylvania
Posts: 181
Congrats on the new max, i'm reletively new to the club myself but have already changed out the engine.
I know this may sound like a no brainer, but have you checked the battery. Cleaned the terrminals and had it load tested? I would do this regarless, it never hurts to know for sure your battery is in good shape.
My money would be on the starter too, sometimes the brushes can get stuck, the old tapping trick may solve this from time to time. I got a starter from a junk yard and it works great.
I know this may sound like a no brainer, but have you checked the battery. Cleaned the terrminals and had it load tested? I would do this regarless, it never hurts to know for sure your battery is in good shape.
My money would be on the starter too, sometimes the brushes can get stuck, the old tapping trick may solve this from time to time. I got a starter from a junk yard and it works great.
The one thing that came to mind when thinking about this for the past few hours was that when i turned they key to "start" the clock would go out, but the dash lights (airbag/CEL/battery things like that) would remain. Would this be a symptom of the ignition switch being bad? I want to be relatively certain before I start throwing money at it (not a rich guy
)
08-01-2010, 12:09 PM
#9
The ignition switch is a common problem for us. I priced the ignition switch at Courtesy Nissan (local to me) and they wanted $32 (I think). I decided to take the one out of my car and look at it. It's easy to take out. I took it apart, looked at the contacts inside and saw a 'burned' contact. I cleaned it. Put it back in the car and that was last summer. Still doing fine.
08-02-2010, 10:39 AM
#10
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Western Pennsylvania
Posts: 181
I wanted to take a bit of a drive today, i thought i had cured the ills. 
No cranking at all, thank god it was in my driveway when it took its fit.
I took apart the steering wheel plastic and got ahold of the ignition switch, here's some pics, does it look bad? (I can't tell)
I also have a video i recorded on my little digital camera (mic isnt too hot on it. Can make more if needed)
http://vimeo.com/13829984
The clicky noise is me moving the key, The other sound is from the car.
No cranking at all, thank god it was in my driveway when it took its fit.
I took apart the steering wheel plastic and got ahold of the ignition switch, here's some pics, does it look bad? (I can't tell
) I also have a video i recorded on my little digital camera (mic isnt too hot on it. Can make more if needed)
http://vimeo.com/13829984
The clicky noise is me moving the key, The other sound is from the car.
Last edited by 5150pa; 08-02-2010 at 11:13 AM.
08-02-2010, 01:31 PM
#11
I wanted to take a bit of a drive today, i thought i had cured the ills.
No cranking at all, thank god it was in my driveway when it took its fit.
I took apart the steering wheel plastic and got ahold of the ignition switch, here's some pics, does it look bad? (I can't tell)
No cranking at all, thank god it was in my driveway when it took its fit.
I took apart the steering wheel plastic and got ahold of the ignition switch, here's some pics, does it look bad? (I can't tell
)
08-02-2010, 01:42 PM
#12
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Western Pennsylvania
Posts: 181
Looks good to me, if you had a poor connection it would get hot enough to melt some of the plastic I suspect. Furthermore I think if it was your switch it would do it more regardless of how long you drive it. I think what you are experiencing is the symptoms of a bad solenoid. after a long drive and shutdown, heat from the motor will soak into the starter. This extra heat will cause excessive resistance in the solenoid windings and cause a no start. I think the solenoid can be replaced separately.
Going to try the hammer-tap on the starter after i get some food.
Does advanced auto carry OEM starters? or are they the ones lacking the extra tooth maximas need.
08-02-2010, 01:48 PM
#13
When the no start condition is happening, pull the signal wire from the solenoid and check it with a test light. Test light is better than meter here because it will indicate whether the switch is capable of carrying a load.
Also try this. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GaffsGFFg
If it cranks this way, you have a switch problem.
If you have 5MT, there is the clutch pedal switch and the relay in the vid.
With AT there is a neutral safety switch.
Also try this. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GaffsGFFg
If it cranks this way, you have a switch problem.
If you have 5MT, there is the clutch pedal switch and the relay in the vid.
With AT there is a neutral safety switch.
Last edited by asand1; 08-02-2010 at 01:52 PM.
08-02-2010, 01:53 PM
#14
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Western Pennsylvania
Posts: 181
When the no start condition is happening, pull the signal wire from the solenoid and check it with a test light. Test light is better than meter here because it will indicate whether the switch is capable of carrying a load.
Also try this. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GaffsGFFg
If it cranks this way, you have a switch problem.
If you have 5MT, there is the clutch pedal switch and the relay in the vid.
With AT there is a neutral safety switch.
Also try this. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GaffsGFFg
If it cranks this way, you have a switch problem.
If you have 5MT, there is the clutch pedal switch and the relay in the vid.
With AT there is a neutral safety switch.
The only thing I can do right now is make another video, I'm not "allowed" (Boy did i hear some *****ing when i tore that ignition switch out) to tear it apart and attempt all these repairs yet, as i haven't payed the car off yet. Once my grandfather gets home (car's in his name,
) we'll be having at it. Thanks everyone for the help so far.
Last edited by 5150pa; 08-02-2010 at 01:56 PM.
08-02-2010, 02:47 PM
#15
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Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Oakland, CA
Posts: 704
Take a look at this thread: http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...d-perhaps.html
The tape has been working for me for a couple of years now. DennisMik may be right that it's just dirty contacts, but I replaced my ignition switch when I was trying to figure this out, and the problem remained. But it doesn't cost you anything except a little time to try either approach.
The tape has been working for me for a couple of years now. DennisMik may be right that it's just dirty contacts, but I replaced my ignition switch when I was trying to figure this out, and the problem remained. But it doesn't cost you anything except a little time to try either approach.
08-02-2010, 03:04 PM
#16
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Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Western Pennsylvania
Posts: 181
Take a look at this thread: http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...d-perhaps.html
The tape has been working for me for a couple of years now. DennisMik may be right that it's just dirty contacts, but I replaced my ignition switch when I was trying to figure this out, and the problem remained. But it doesn't cost you anything except a little time to try either approach.
The tape has been working for me for a couple of years now. DennisMik may be right that it's just dirty contacts, but I replaced my ignition switch when I was trying to figure this out, and the problem remained. But it doesn't cost you anything except a little time to try either approach.
I had seen pmohr's video on how to remove it and after removal i tried using a flathead screwdriver to start (with key in cylinder). Nothing new happened.
I'm gonna figure that the switch is alright as when i turn they key to start, the clock will go out like it is going to start cranking. I'm coming to the conclusion that it must be the starter itself (The car did sit a good while before i had purchased.)
08-02-2010, 03:51 PM
#17
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Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Western Pennsylvania
Posts: 181
Update: After giving the starter a few solid taps with the wooden end of a hammer, started right up. Thanks guys.
My local advanceauto only has this:
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/web..._1375723652___
Will this work (I know the site says it will fit, but i've heard of problems with certain starters)
But one question still remains... What's up with this knock sensor code?
like i said, i have emission/inspection this month and i've heard that with that code on the computer it will not pass.
My local advanceauto only has this:
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/web..._1375723652___
Will this work (I know the site says it will fit, but i've heard of problems with certain starters)
But one question still remains... What's up with this knock sensor code?
like i said, i have emission/inspection this month and i've heard that with that code on the computer it will not pass.
Last edited by 5150pa; 08-02-2010 at 03:55 PM.
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