Peebs187

What are people's experiences with aftermarket axle assemblies? I have to change my axle oil seals and would rather not mess around with seating the new support bearings, not to mention I have a two partially torn cv boots.

OEM $475.00 each @ nissanpartscheap.com
EMPI $110.00 each @ autopartswarehouse.com

I am curious if anyone has had fitment issues with any aftermarkets, how long they have held up and what you used. That is a huge price discrepancy.

matty

iTrader: (54)

http://www.raxles.com/
#1 around here. Speak with Marty.

DONT BUY OEM Axles.

-matt

Peebs187

Thanks, wasn't planning on OEM at $500.00 per. What about axle oil seals. What is the best quality seal to purchase?

96nismomaxi

iTrader: (17)

i gotta say i use to break oem replacement axles on a monthly basis...about 3 months ago i bought raxles and they are freekin amazing!!!!
go with raxles
also i will keep u informed i will b putting a tree pernt five in the car and that will b the real test

-Jared

Zwingz

How much do raxles go for?

brandnew

iTrader: (5)

Ima check em out I need to buy a passenger side axle my joint clickin

Bobo

Drive axle seals cost peanuts. If a seal needs replacement, why anyone would replace the drive axle is beyond me!

Gismo-T

iTrader: (38)

Lt. $119.95
Rt. $149.95

Core charge is $160, which is credited once Marty receives your old axles.
Shipping was about $40

dgeesaman

iTrader: (10)

That's strange, considering raxles are just OEM spec rebuilt axle assemblies. Unless the OEM axles are of inferior quality, which I really doubt is the case, the difference is price.

Peebs. What axle oil seals are you talking about? The ones in the tranny? (the CVs and outboard wheel bearing are both grease lubricated)

Dave

Peebs187

The axle oil seals in the transaxle are leaking. The drivers side is leaking a drop every ten seconds or so. I want to replace the cv's (two torn boots), and also, I don't want to mess with pressing a new bearing on each side. Besides it's only $300.00 to make my life a little easier. It gives me piece of mind that I have straight axles too....

Bobo

What do you mean by pressing a bearing on each side? I think you are mistaken.

Peebs187

My powertrain mechanic said to just replace the axles and I'll save time and effort. Besides; the support bearings will be seized in their housing (150,000 miles in MN) and need to be pressed on the halfshafts, I like spending money, I have a slight shimmy at freeway speeds (not the wheel balance), and I need to replace two torn cv boots.

Can't wait to make the purchase.

dgeesaman

iTrader: (10)

Good luck, hoping it's just the seals.

Nealoc187

iTrader: (23)

If you're talking about the support bearing which is only on the passenger side axle, you can probably get that off and on the new axle rather easily with a dead blow hammer. The driver's side doesn't have one, it's supported only by the differential and the steering knuckle. I did on all 3 of my high mileage 4th gens without any real problems.

I'm a bit wary about just replacing the axle seals however... axle seals don't typically go bad unless you've removed and reinstalled the axle and banged it up (which it sounds like you haven't) or there is play in the differential bearings which requires the trans to come out and be taken apart to replace the bearings. I suppose the seals could just be worn out but that's pretty rare - but the fact that both seals just happen to be leaking is a hint that there is a bigger problem. While you have the axles out you need to check for play in differential bearings (both sides) - I suspect you are going to find that the differential bearings are bad.

Peebs187

I have felt the axles for diff. play, and they feel rock solid. Worst case, I have to change out the tranny to a rebuilt LSD and replace my main rear seal I guess. I have never owned a front driver before 3 months ago, I just want it to stop leaking. There are no real signs of anything wrong with the transmission from what I have been told. If the seal isn't bad, how could it leak out near the inner cv? I am sure some hack mechanic fixed a cv boot/ replaced the joint, then without using an oil seal cover tool replaced the axle and damaged the seal slightly. Very probable since the previous owner is a cheap ***, the car has 150,000 on it, and he price shops everything.

In the end it's only $, so who cares, as long as your net saving and having fun.

By the way, the driver's side axle seal is leaking, the passenger side has no leak, it looks like it is "sweating" but it could be from anything. I will replace both sides and hope for the best. If anyone could clarify how leaking out of the seal is a sign of anything other than a bad seal, let me know. My powertrain mechanic said that it is ridiculous to think otherwise...

Bobo

Differential carrier bearings are a common problem with 4th Gen Maximas.

I have had a leaky driver's side axle seal for almost 3 years and finally replaced it at 68k.

It is still leaking ever so slightly, but I think the transaxle was overfilled.

There is very slight movement in the driver's side axle.

If I were you Peebs 187, I would put a piece of cardboard down where the vehicle is parked and monitor the leakage. If it isn't leaking very much and the transaxle gear oil is full, then quit sweating the small stuff and get on with life. Chances are you are going to have to replace the differential carrier bearings somewhere along the line, but I question if now is the time it must be done.

BlackDOut98LGE

"Drive axle seals cost peanuts. If a seal needs replacement, why anyone would replace the drive axle is beyond me!"

To pay someone to take out your axle to just replace the seal when you have a high mileage car is just dumb...go ahead & replace he axle too...when you replace the timing belt at 90k miles in a Toyota you have to remove the water pump first....the water pump needs to be replaced only 25k miles later so why pay the labor for removing the water pump twice?

Bobo

If you pay someone more than an hour's labor to replace the driver's side axle seal, you are getting sucked in. If the CV boots are in decent shape, why bother replacing the axle?

I take it you aren't a proponent of: if it ain't broke, don't fix it!

Nealoc187

iTrader: (23)

I wasn't saying that the seal wasn't bad I was saying that it is possible that the differential bearings are bad which would cause play in the axle which would then cause a seal to tear/crack from the abnormal movement of the axle and thus you'd have a leak - that was my guess as to the root cause of the bad axle seal.

It could also be exactly what you said, an axle removal and reinstallation that caused a torn seal and thus the leak, without the differential bearings having a problem.

How long has it been leaking, the entire 3 months you've had it?

Nealoc187

iTrader: (23)

Oh and to touch on your original topic - OEM vs Aftermarket assemblies. I've never had a problem with an aftermarket axle assembly purchased from the local auto parts store (Autozone typically). knock on wood.

Peebs187

Yes the entire three months it has leaked, now that I topped it off it really leaks. Again, I checked the axles for play with the car on a hoist/ suspension loose, and there is none as far as I can tell.

What would be a good way to check for play in the differential, or other things to look for, as I take the axles out and replace them with new ones?

Peebs187

I agree that it should only take about two hours for a shop to swap the seals, but this is simple stuff, and I like to do the simple things myself. I just found out that the cv joints were replaced 20,000 miles ago (2 boots are torn right now, one on each side), but the axles are original. Raxles uses brand new CV joints, AMSOil synthetic grease, and has the support bearing pressed on. $300.00, it will take me three hours at most and I have six less things to worry about. A reputable shop would charge a minimum of two hours, or about $150.00. Hmmm, what should I do

I never let things just leak out at friends, or clients homes or businesses. I don't even drive the car right now, it's my mileage car, and cardboard is out of the question, a 5' x3' metal "drip" pan is under it now. I want to basically replace everything I take off anytime I do anything to the car, until I have satisfied myself the car is in perfect running order.

d00df00d

iTrader: (4)

New OEM axles are good because they're... new.

Raxles rebuilt axles are better because the important parts (the joints) are still new, they use MUCH better grease ($1000/barrell Amsoil synthetic instead of ~$50/barrell non-synthetic), they're warrantied for life, and they are cheaper.

When you're buying seals and the like, always buy OEM.

Peebs187

Agreed, OEM seals are a guaranteed fit. Can't beat the Raxles warranty and price anywhere.

Nealoc187

iTrader: (23)

The easiest way to check the differential bearings for play is to put your fingers in the axle seal holes (easier after you've removed said seals) and just try to wiggle the diff. Any play in the diff is unacceptable. That sort of play would probably be evident when moving the inner part of the axle though too which you already said you did, so maybe (hopefully) you are safe.

9Shenandoah

iTrader: (1)

I pulled my CV joints out last night on my 5 speed. I am trying to order the correct ones from ROCK Auto and/or NAPA.

When you work out all the permutations on the parts table ( Manual transmission, W or WO ABS and W or WO Locking Differential ) the only thing that makes sense is that 5 speed 98 Maxima's all come with Locking Differentials. I cannot find any CV Joints for non Locking Differential 5 speeds w ABS

So is a locking differentail really a rarity on a 5 speed ABS equipped Maxima for the US market?
Of course clicking on all those tables and menus can produce errors.

So if I take my Joints to the store, do I stand a good choice of getting the right part?

99BlackMaxMS

iTrader: (85)

You need a non-locking, 5 speed, w/ ABS, correct? You will be able to tell the differences between a:

Locking v. Non Locking = locking has an odd groove on the end of the axle that is placed inside the bellhousing -- non locking is smooth and has no groove

ABS v. Non ABS = ABS has a ring around the edge of the outer CV boot, right where the other end of the axle fits through the hub assembly. Non ABS do not have this grooved ring.

Autozone screwed up on my car once and gave me a non ABS axle and it took me 3 weeks to realize that was the reason why my ABS light came on immediately after swapping axles.

Hope this helps.

9Shenandoah

iTrader: (1)

Thank you very much
I am definitely Non Locking.
Appreciate your help.

JSutter

iTrader: (46)

GSP axles from advanced are $70, no core, and brand new.

philly96maxima

...one thing I have noticed....original axe boots lasted about 130 to 140 thousand miles on both my maximas 96 & 97,,,rebuilt axle boots both lasted about 25 to 35k miles...THAT! is what goes bad most times,,it is the boot, and I am thinking most rebuilt axles have the "****ty"boot...keeps those axles being replaced on a quicker pace throughout the automotive industry,,,,,,


...replace that boot with a high quality one,,one like from the dealer or equivalent...make sense???...

as soon as a shop says torn boot,,,I would say 99% of the consumers just go with an axle replacement....thehn they have that Crappy boot to go with their axle.

9Shenandoah

iTrader: (1)

I bought NAPA MAx Drive CV joints brand new. Sighh, I guess boot replacement will be an yearly thing.

Phatmax98

iTrader: (2)

I got my axles from Advance Auto for about $70 each, I did not replace my axle seals and have had no problems. I put approximately 12,000 miles on them since last summer.

myblzurchn

Thats exactlty what happened to mine, noticed a little leak, checked it out and it is the carrier bearings. So I am swapping in an LSD. I'm stoked, just ordered it and just to be sure its good I'm going to do bearings in it before install being that it has 140K.

myblzurchn

My carrier bearings are on their way out now and it makes a pretty loud noise when the clutch is disengaged and in nuetral, first and second gears, odd thing is if the clutch pedal is depressed it has no noise at all? I just ordered an LSD for mine, trying to save up for axles and was wondering this same question, so thanks for posting.

Nealoc187

iTrader: (23)

that is your input shaft bearing not your differential carrier bearings.