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Old 09-14-2010, 06:36 PM   #1
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p1320 all new parts?

hey guys got a 99 max kickin my ***, throwing a p1320 ignition signal primary. It is a 1t code, will clear with the engine off but appears on start up every time and the car runs great. Car has new coils, plugs(bosch platinum), cam and crank sensors, have not checked condensor yet. I unplugged 1 coil on each bank and started it for a second and code came back religiously after startup I did this for each coil down the banks, however by unplugging the crank sensor make the 1320 go away. Thinking next step is checking the harness unless I get some other ideas, anybody run into this?
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Old 09-14-2010, 10:06 PM   #2
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I'm getting the same code. I read somewhere that it had to do with an after market coil that I used so take that into consideration if that is what you are using too.
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Old 09-14-2010, 10:40 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by titanbk View Post
hey guys got a 99 max kickin my ***, throwing a p1320 ignition signal primary. It is a 1t code, will clear with the engine off but appears on start up every time and the car runs great. Car has new coils, plugs(bosch platinum), cam and crank sensors, have not checked condensor yet. I unplugged 1 coil on each bank and started it for a second and code came back religiously after startup I did this for each coil down the banks, however by unplugging the crank sensor make the 1320 go away. Thinking next step is checking the harness unless I get some other ideas, anybody run into this?
... Rid thyself of those horrid plugs and ye shalt be set free from thy troubles.

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Jared I think u should buy my nitrous kit for the sh!tvic.

1 of 2 possibilities is likely to transpire, both of which im sure you'd be comfortable with.

1. you go jDm fast yo and race crusher for slips
2. you blow that 4 banger into oblivion with improper A/F and thus rid yourself of the thing.

I see no downfall here. Lets make a deal.
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Old 09-15-2010, 04:46 AM   #4
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alright guys I'm gonna see what I can do today, this is a customers car so misdiagnosis and guesses arent really an option but I will try to throw in some extra nissan plugs we got kickin around and I will ohm the coils on it because they are new but possibly not Nissan. Why would the plugs cause it to throw a 1320 and then go away when the crank sensor is unplugged? Any theory behind that?
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Old 09-15-2010, 02:12 PM   #5
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alright boys was bad coil packs. customer stated he bought new nissan coils.......not the case. each coils went over .2 within the first 5 seconds of starting. I threw in 6 nissan coils and dtc has not came back. They are BRAND NEW COILS from some aftermarket place so ALLLLLLLLLLL buyers beware of this p1320 aftermarket coils are garbage. Test each coil with a meter, it only takes 10 minutes to check them ALL so test then replace and save yourself hundreds of dollars!
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Old 09-15-2010, 02:32 PM   #6
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What is the brand of coils and/or part number? I just bought a Wells coil today to replace one of the failed stock ones.
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Old 09-15-2010, 06:03 PM   #7
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as long as you dont get a 1320 you should b fine but to test the coil pack just use a meter and check the wire on the coil pack....not the red......not the black one but the one with the tracer. Backprobe the connector with a pin and touch a meters red lead to it and the black lead to the battery and START THE ENGINE. The number on the meter can not go above .2v or it will trigger this code. These coils were hitting almost .4v I will try to find out the brand they are and keep you all posted.
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Old 09-15-2010, 06:24 PM   #8
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I just installed the Wells and it is running better than ever. Also, don't you mean connect the black lead to an engine ground?
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Old 09-15-2010, 08:49 PM   #9
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i currently have this code also, i found a thread on here that said that it was just a crank sensor but i also heard that i have to change all my coils (which i really dont want to do) because have the CEL on bothers me because its been there for a while so i guess i'll be checking the coils tomorrow, but i really want to know what is the real problem so that i wont have to go out spending alot of money on parts for nothing
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Old 09-16-2010, 03:49 PM   #10
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titanbk, could you be a little more specific about the meter\test you are using. I'm stumped on a P1320 issue and have been probing pin 3 with an oscilloscope on each one. With that, I'm seeing 4V pulses (approximate). I'm curious if you are using a simple multimeter which would sample and average the voltage such that the average voltage would be lower.

I should note that I've replaced 4 of the coils with BWD ones from autozone. In my opinion, only one was bad bought I but three more and rotated them through to see if I could isolate the issue (no luck).

Last edited by eJayZ; 09-16-2010 at 03:53 PM..
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Old 09-16-2010, 04:21 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by titanbk View Post
alright boys was bad coil packs. customer stated he bought new nissan coils.......not the case. each coils went over .2 within the first 5 seconds of starting. I threw in 6 nissan coils and dtc has not came back. They are BRAND NEW COILS from some aftermarket place so ALLLLLLLLLLL buyers beware of this p1320 aftermarket coils are garbage. Test each coil with a meter, it only takes 10 minutes to check them ALL so test then replace and save yourself hundreds of dollars!
Please, do post instructions on how to check resistance on coils. I was following the FSM but I think I did it wrong lol
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Old 09-23-2010, 02:02 PM   #12
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DO NOT BUY COILS FROM ADVANCE AUTO!!! ONLY BUY OEM!!!

So after weeks of trying to fix my P1320 problem, I finally bought a set of new OEM coils off ebay for $250 + $11 S&H. (The seller was golfsixdaysaweek btw). I replaced ONLY the two new BWD coils from advanced with the OEM ones and my problem was solved.

Even though my car ran fine with the BWD coils in there and it solved my original hesitation\misfire issue, there's just something about them that caused the P1320 (0201) code to fire. I checked the BWD coils and they were both made in Poland.

Needless to say, I'm returning them back to Advance Auto.

Last edited by eJayZ; 09-24-2010 at 09:49 AM..
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Old 09-24-2010, 01:55 PM   #13
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or you guys could save an assload of money and buy them from forum members. like me.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NCSU_MAX View Post
Jared I think u should buy my nitrous kit for the sh!tvic.

1 of 2 possibilities is likely to transpire, both of which im sure you'd be comfortable with.

1. you go jDm fast yo and race crusher for slips
2. you blow that 4 banger into oblivion with improper A/F and thus rid yourself of the thing.

I see no downfall here. Lets make a deal.
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Old 03-16-2012, 01:06 PM   #14
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are you still selling the coil packs?
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Old 01-30-2014, 01:47 PM   #15
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i fixed it

same crap i been through but on the i found out that my cati was plunged, to check that,open both O2s and start the car and verify, or drill the wholes in exhaust and check it.
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Old 01-31-2014, 07:33 AM   #16
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same crap i been through but on the i found out that my cati was plunged, to check that,open both O2s and start the car and verify, or drill the wholes in exhaust and check it.
What are you checking when you pull the o2's? Do you mean visually check or do you mean take the car for a drive and see if performance returns? I ask because my car has been running shi#$y since the beginning of winter. It hesistates, and has no power. I pulled the plugs, the tips are brownish and the threads are black! This tells me that she is running extremely rich. I suspect that its been running rich for a while, and over time the cat became clogged. However there is no sulfer smell. Car idles fine, (1200 rpm when cold, 750 rpm once warm). I have the common knock sensor code, an evap. code (my filler neck has a leak), and p0141 downstream o2 code. My cat is welded on so I don't really want to cut it off to check. Oh and the flex section of the exhaust leaks. I got some help in the newbie section and I intend to follow the advice I was given, but until I have enough money for parts, I want to difinitively diagnose the problem so I'm not just throwing parts at it.
PS: I'm not sure if this is related but when I tap the gas lightly and let off really quick the Rpms will fall until it hits 1000 rpm, then it will pause for a second at 1000 before returning to normal idle. Vacume leak? Perhaps I should start my own thread, as I don't really want to be hijacking this one.

Last edited by 6cyl-97maxima; 01-31-2014 at 07:45 AM..
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Old 02-13-2014, 01:53 PM   #17
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Where did you guys buy the good coils from?? I got ones from Ebay as well and still have the pesky check engine light on. And does anyone have a video of them testing the coils? I mean I kind of understand what you guys are saying about testing them but a video would be awesome.
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Old 02-13-2014, 02:53 PM   #18
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Nothing new here. For those that didnt know, now you know AFTERMARKET COILS DO NOT WORK. ONLY NISSAN. Also, highly recommend using NGK plugs
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Old 02-13-2014, 06:02 PM   #19
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Nothing new here. For those that didnt know, now you know AFTERMARKET COILS DO NOT WORK. ONLY NISSAN. Also, highly recommend using NGK plugs
Quick question: are the Hanshins coils aftermarket or are they the coils Nissan uses. I'm pretty sure they are aftermarket, as they look new. I am currently dealing with a bad #5 coil. If the Hanshins are the aftermarket coils that tend to fail..
Well that would just suck, since all 6 of my coils are the Hanshins
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Old 02-13-2014, 07:06 PM   #20
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No hanshins are the best coils in the car. I have a 97 maxima with hanshin coils original that came with the car and I have 301,724 miles on them and they are still working. They are what the car originally come with even my 2009 Nissan murano has hanshin coil packs. It was only 99 Nissan maxima year that had problem for some reason. People need to stop talking crap about them. The hanshins are OEM Nissan.
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Old 02-13-2014, 08:04 PM   #21
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ive got the 1320 code with all nissan coils and ngk plugs. gonna check the selonoid and the camshaft positioning sensor this weekend.
quick question though, it was stated that with the crankshaft sensor was unplugged and no more ses light? true? think it would pass an emissions test with that unplugged? ses light is an automatic fail in texas.
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Old 02-13-2014, 09:40 PM   #22
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No hanshins are the best coils in the car. I have a 97 maxima with hanshin coils original that came with the car and I have 301,724 miles on them and they are still working. They are what the car originally come with even my 2009 Nissan murano has hanshin coil packs. It was only 99 Nissan maxima year that had problem for some reason. People need to stop talking crap about them. The hanshins are OEM Nissan.
Like you I drive a 97 Max. And if the hanshins are the factory ones then its Likely they are original. I'm at 200380km's and only now am I having one fail, that's damn good IMHO!
another question....I plan on junkyard shopping for a replacement coil, so I would want one from a lower mileage Max, to best achieve this It would be better to pull one from a newer car. What is the newes generationt I can go and still have the right coil? Are there any other model cars that share the same coils?

Thanks for the advice!
Nathan
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Old 02-13-2014, 09:53 PM   #23
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Infiniti i30 96-99, and Nissan maxima 95-99 have the same coils. No other gen has the same.
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Old 02-17-2014, 01:07 PM   #24
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How do you guys test the coils??
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Old 02-19-2014, 05:15 PM   #25
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Infiniti i30 96-99, and Nissan maxima 95-99 have the same coils. No other gen has the same.
Thanks
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Old 02-19-2014, 05:28 PM   #26
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How do you guys test the coils??
Well I have found the ohm testing to be kinda sketchy. But you use a multimeter with an ohm setting that can do at least 10M ohms. Then you unplug your coil and place you're negitive probe on the middle pin and your positive probe on the pin on the right ( assuming your looking at the engine from the front). You should get a 0 or infinite reading. Then while leaving your negative probe on the center pin, move your positive probe to the pin on the left, (marked IB on the coil pack). You want to see a reading no higher than 1.7ohms.
Or, if your missing really bad, then just unplug you coils one by one, when you unplug a coil and there is no change in rpm, roughness, missing etc. Than that would be your problem coil. Assuming its not a bad injector. However the same "unplug" test can be done with the injectors also.
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Old 02-20-2014, 01:59 PM   #27
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Well I have found the ohm testing to be kinda sketchy. But you use a multimeter with an ohm setting that can do at least 10M ohms. Then you unplug your coil and place you're negitive probe on the middle pin and your positive probe on the pin on the right ( assuming your looking at the engine from the front). You should get a 0 or infinite reading. Then while leaving your negative probe on the center pin, move your positive probe to the pin on the left, (marked IB on the coil pack). You want to see a reading no higher than 1.7ohms.
Or, if your missing really bad, then just unplug you coils one by one, when you unplug a coil and there is no change in rpm, roughness, missing etc. Than that would be your problem coil. Assuming its not a bad injector. However the same "unplug" test can be done with the injectors also.
Thanks man I will try that. It was misfiring then I put the cheap ebay coils in and it runs good now but has the code cause the coils are so cheap so I will put the originals in and test them one by one and replace the one that needs replacing.
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Old 02-20-2014, 01:59 PM
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