My 99.... Immobilized!!
06-12-2011, 10:13 AM
#43
06-12-2011, 11:13 AM
#44
http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/maxima/1999/EL.pdf
Page 297
Last edited by boneebone; 06-12-2011 at 11:29 AM.
06-12-2011, 12:01 PM
#45
To my understanding it's.....
Key sends OK signal to NATS
NATS sends OK signal to ECU
ECU turns on the fuel pump.
In the pinout diagrams there's a pin for NATS on the 99 ECU's but not on the previous years... And I want a 96 ecu for tuning purposes
Key sends OK signal to NATS
NATS sends OK signal to ECU
ECU turns on the fuel pump.
In the pinout diagrams there's a pin for NATS on the 99 ECU's but not on the previous years... And I want a 96 ecu for tuning purposes
06-12-2011, 03:20 PM
#46
Locksmith came and reprogrammed it for free since it was under warranty. He also cleared some error codes that the admitted he didnt clear the first time.
@Kev: My bad. Sihts been super hectic with me. Hard to find a gram of free time. Im getting foreclosed and in the middle of a last minute move....
Will call you as soon as I can.
@Kev: My bad. Sihts been super hectic with me. Hard to find a gram of free time. Im getting foreclosed and in the middle of a last minute move....
Will call you as soon as I can.
06-12-2011, 03:39 PM
#47
Locksmith came and reprogrammed it for free since it was under warranty. He also cleared some error codes that the admitted he didnt clear the first time.
@Kev: My bad. Sihts been super hectic with me. Hard to find a gram of free time. Im getting foreclosed and in the middle of a last minute move....
Will call you as soon as I can.
@Kev: My bad. Sihts been super hectic with me. Hard to find a gram of free time. Im getting foreclosed and in the middle of a last minute move....
Will call you as soon as I can.
I'm glad you were able to get your car running again at no additional cost to you.
06-12-2011, 04:16 PM
#48
Supporting Maxima.org Member
Join Date: Sep 2003
Posts: 104
VQ'rInWLA, sorry for you. But the mystery remains, what is happening? Are you sure your not accidently trying to use a different key? Do our '99 keys really 'go bad'?
My immobilizer shut me down a few years ago. I was towed to my dealer and was totally ripped off of course. At the time I was convinced that I put one of my Oldsmobile ignition keys into my Max ignition, causing the stupid immobilizer to kick in (that is the intent of the system I am told). So now I use two different key rings!
I do not understand why Nissan would shut down my ride if some bozo puts his dumb bogus key in my car's ignition to steal it? Just do not start the car! Period! Do not shut me down hundreds of miles from home, with no way to 'reset' the condition even though I have the proper key!
Can anyone explain what the theory is behind this "immobilizer" other than to cause lots of pain to innocent owners?
My immobilizer shut me down a few years ago. I was towed to my dealer and was totally ripped off of course. At the time I was convinced that I put one of my Oldsmobile ignition keys into my Max ignition, causing the stupid immobilizer to kick in (that is the intent of the system I am told). So now I use two different key rings!
I do not understand why Nissan would shut down my ride if some bozo puts his dumb bogus key in my car's ignition to steal it? Just do not start the car! Period! Do not shut me down hundreds of miles from home, with no way to 'reset' the condition even though I have the proper key!
Can anyone explain what the theory is behind this "immobilizer" other than to cause lots of pain to innocent owners?
06-13-2011, 09:29 AM
#50
VQ'rInWLA, sorry for you. But the mystery remains, what is happening? Are you sure your not accidently trying to use a different key? Do our '99 keys really 'go bad'?
My immobilizer shut me down a few years ago. I was towed to my dealer and was totally ripped off of course. At the time I was convinced that I put one of my Oldsmobile ignition keys into my Max ignition, causing the stupid immobilizer to kick in (that is the intent of the system I am told). So now I use two different key rings!
I do not understand why Nissan would shut down my ride if some bozo puts his dumb bogus key in my car's ignition to steal it? Just do not start the car! Period! Do not shut me down hundreds of miles from home, with no way to 'reset' the condition even though I have the proper key!
Can anyone explain what the theory is behind this "immobilizer" other than to cause lots of pain to innocent owners?
My immobilizer shut me down a few years ago. I was towed to my dealer and was totally ripped off of course. At the time I was convinced that I put one of my Oldsmobile ignition keys into my Max ignition, causing the stupid immobilizer to kick in (that is the intent of the system I am told). So now I use two different key rings!
I do not understand why Nissan would shut down my ride if some bozo puts his dumb bogus key in my car's ignition to steal it? Just do not start the car! Period! Do not shut me down hundreds of miles from home, with no way to 'reset' the condition even though I have the proper key!
Can anyone explain what the theory is behind this "immobilizer" other than to cause lots of pain to innocent owners?
99s are the first generation of the immobilizer for the A chassis so I figure this is one of those kinks that needed to be worked out.....
06-13-2011, 09:33 AM
#51
06-13-2011, 02:08 PM
#52
I wouldn't measure electrical parts in terms of mileage, your keys were around 11 years old when they went out, think about what you were doing 11 years ago.... yeah...
04-01-2013, 01:21 PM
#54
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Mar 2013
Posts: 8
04-02-2013, 08:11 AM
#55
01-03-2014, 05:02 PM
#56
Member
Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: Fort Worth, TX
Posts: 110
You guys are making this more complicated than it has to be.
All you have to do is replace the fuel pump relay with a jumper. The power through the relay is switched by the ignition switch, so it only gets power when you turn the key on. Relay is located behind the driver side kick panel. The relevant wires are black/white and black/yellow.
01-03-2014, 05:57 PM
#57
All you have to do is replace the fuel pump relay with a jumper. The power through the relay is switched by the ignition switch, so it only gets power when you turn the key on. Relay is located behind the driver side kick panel. The relevant wires are black/white and black/yellow.
01-03-2014, 06:38 PM
#58
Member
Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: Fort Worth, TX
Posts: 110
I did it to my own car. As soon as I got it home after buying it, I got locked out by the NATS.
I swapped in a 95 auto ECU, but it threw emissions and tranny codes right away, so I swapped it back to my original ECU. Then I tried to find a way to activate the relay with power off of a different pin, but didn't get far before I thought to check to see if the power to the relay was switched or not. It was, which meant that I wouldn't drain my battery or burn out my pump. I used spade terminals on my jumper so that i wouldn't have to chop up the harness.
I swapped in a 95 auto ECU, but it threw emissions and tranny codes right away, so I swapped it back to my original ECU. Then I tried to find a way to activate the relay with power off of a different pin, but didn't get far before I thought to check to see if the power to the relay was switched or not. It was, which meant that I wouldn't drain my battery or burn out my pump. I used spade terminals on my jumper so that i wouldn't have to chop up the harness.
Last edited by bewrong; 01-03-2014 at 06:41 PM.
01-04-2014, 11:10 AM
#60
All you have to do is replace the fuel pump relay with a jumper. The power through the relay is switched by the ignition switch, so it only gets power when you turn the key on. Relay is located behind the driver side kick panel. The relevant wires are black/white and black/yellow.
Brilliant!
07-17-2014, 03:25 PM
#61
I did it to my own car. As soon as I got it home after buying it, I got locked out by the NATS.
I swapped in a 95 auto ECU, but it threw emissions and tranny codes right away, so I swapped it back to my original ECU. Then I tried to find a way to activate the relay with power off of a different pin, but didn't get far before I thought to check to see if the power to the relay was switched or not. It was, which meant that I wouldn't drain my battery or burn out my pump. I used spade terminals on my jumper so that i wouldn't have to chop up the harness.
I swapped in a 95 auto ECU, but it threw emissions and tranny codes right away, so I swapped it back to my original ECU. Then I tried to find a way to activate the relay with power off of a different pin, but didn't get far before I thought to check to see if the power to the relay was switched or not. It was, which meant that I wouldn't drain my battery or burn out my pump. I used spade terminals on my jumper so that i wouldn't have to chop up the harness.
I wanted to ask abt this, so if have issues with being immobilized, you can simply jump 2 wires and don't have to worry abt reprogramming ur key and computer again? Did u ever run into any issues after this rewire?
Als wat wires are you rewiring?
If I understand this correctly you are connecting the black/white directly to the black/yellow wire?
Last edited by maxfever1987; 07-17-2014 at 03:27 PM.
07-17-2014, 03:31 PM
#63
Member
Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: Fort Worth, TX
Posts: 110
It turns out that doing this didn't actually fix anything. The immobilizer stopped acting up, by coincidence, exactly when I did this. Later on I got immobilized again even though I had my fuel pump jumpered.
On the other hand, this puts to bed the myth that the immobilizer works by disabling only the fuel pump.
On the other hand, this puts to bed the myth that the immobilizer works by disabling only the fuel pump.
07-17-2014, 03:42 PM
#64
If someone wants to experiment, the NATS unit in the steering column sends a signal to the ECU on pin 17. I don't know if pin 17 on the ECU has to be ground or 12 volts to allow the car to start. Whatever the voltage is when the car is immobilized, it would obviously have to be the opposite for the car to start.
07-17-2014, 06:41 PM
#65
Thanks for clarifying, I have a 99 that I have been trying to figure out, I put it into ignition, it cranks and starts up, stays on for abt 3 seconds and than shuts off and red security light than comes on solid, this would conclude that it Is immobilized correct?
I though it should not start even for a second,
I though it should not start even for a second,
07-17-2014, 08:39 PM
#66
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Long Island
Posts: 11
Same thing happened to me not too long ago. However, I'm not entirely sure why mine immobilized. Had to tow mine to the dealership and had them reset/override the computer. Then started no problem without the stupid annoying light. You could do it yourself if you have a nissan scan tool, but I believe the dealerships usually are the ones to carry them. Also, the dealership only charged me $120 for it. So it wasn't that big of a deal.
Last edited by CNunes_95; 07-17-2014 at 08:41 PM.
09-12-2014, 09:51 AM
#67
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Jul 2006
Posts: 1
99 I30t NATS reset
Finally found a locksmith that would would come out to my house that thought he could reset the NATS on my car. http://www.popalock.com/fran.../gain..._locksmith.php
He was able to reset the system and get my car running and only charged $75, I am extremely happy!
Thanks again for this fix!
He was able to reset the system and get my car running and only charged $75, I am extremely happy!
Thanks again for this fix!
09-12-2014, 10:42 AM
#68
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Central AR
Posts: 3,041
I understand SnapOn makes a diagnostic tool named Solus that (with the right Nissan module) can reprogram Nissan keys.. If you can't find a locksmith or dealer to do a key resync, it may be an alternative.
I've accidentally immobilized two of my 99 models. I have read that trying (unsuccessfully) to start a 99 model with the door open (after 3 tries) sets up a condition that can trip the immobilizer. In both cases when I immobilized my 99 models, I didn't know at the time to keep the driver's door shut while working through a start up issue. So I stopped trying to run the starter (for a compression test or the likes) with the door open and so far I've not accidentally immobilized either of my 99 models.
I've accidentally immobilized two of my 99 models. I have read that trying (unsuccessfully) to start a 99 model with the door open (after 3 tries) sets up a condition that can trip the immobilizer. In both cases when I immobilized my 99 models, I didn't know at the time to keep the driver's door shut while working through a start up issue. So I stopped trying to run the starter (for a compression test or the likes) with the door open and so far I've not accidentally immobilized either of my 99 models.
Last edited by CS_AR; 09-12-2014 at 10:54 AM.
08-19-2016, 07:22 AM
#69
aackshun, wtf are you thinking? If you have friends with AAA use them, and ask that a LOCKSMITH be sent out. If their a AAA baisc member it covers $60 work, plus is $100 and premier is $150. AAA Covers automotive locksmith work, the person you talk to at AAA might be a dumbass, but it will work. How do I know you ask? Well im glad you asked. I used to be a locksmith. And we were contractors for AAA. I once had a job where someone had the exact same problem, their keys transponder went out. So I went out there, copied their key onto a new transponder key and reprogrammed it with our TKO machine. Easy. Only charged them $60, which AAA covered all of. For the sake of making it easier, just tell the AAA rep that you lost the key all together and tell them to have the locksmith call you immeadiately. Then explain it to him, AAA reps are dumbasses. You might pay a little out of pocket, might not. Definitely you best bet. And locksmiths are 24 hrs... You could have your car running again in about an hour.... for free... seriously.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Omar Abdurrahman Siddiqi
5th Generation Maxima (2000-2003)
33
08-26-2016 05:18 PM
ah2002
5th Generation Maxima (2000-2003)
13
03-09-2016 01:42 PM
Turbo95Max
5th Generation Maxima (2000-2003)
31
05-08-2006 02:37 AM