venturous

I have yet to solve my electrical problem on 95 with not having good power to my blower, windshield wipers and cigarette lighter. The Clymer book I have has the different circuits, but only from the fuse box to the system. I need to see a detailed schematic from the ignition switch to the fuse box and where ever. As I noted in an earlier post, I was sometimes getting 6 to 8 volts until I turned the blower or wipers on and it immediately went to Zero volts. At this point, about the only thing I have been able to determine is that I have good voltage from the ignition switch.
Any help is appreciated.
Randy

urmab

iTrader: (7)

Check with FSM is should be pretty detailed there, but I have the same problem and its an issue with the ignition switch on my car just waiting for new switch to see if the problem will go away

FallenOne

iTrader: (17)

. . . Look In My Sig.

venturous

Thanks for the response on the FSM comment. I am at work, so I am careful about any down loads and when I pulled this up, it seemed quite involved. Will this be an electrical schematic?
Thanks for your help.
Randy

TLMNICK

iTrader: (1)

Before you tear too far into the electrical, check all the relays under the dash. Those things power up with the ignition switch to provide all the accessories with their power. If one of those is out, then it'll prevent them from turning on. They're right at the fuse box on the driver side. There's too more in the kick panel.

I'm sure you've done this already, but did you check all your fuses? And I mean ALL the fuses, not just the ones related to your issue.

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

The closest thing to a schematic is a block diagram that Nissan calls "Power Supply Routing". It is in the EL section (electrical ) of the fsm. My 97 manual has it on page EL-6 but other versions of the manual might have it a page or 2 different.

Specifically there are 2 relays that could be part of the problem. The Accessory relay affects the the cigar lighter and the wiper. The Blower Motor relay affects the blower motor. The 2 relays are energized by the ignition switch, but each relay has a separate wire for this. What they have in common is that when the relay contacts close, they both provide power from fuse #B (65 amp) that is located under the hood by the battery.

venturous

Now, I am getting a little more to work with. I do believe I can feel the relays on the fuse panel click when I turn the switch off and on, but I have not isolated them completely yet. The question is, at what point in the system does power go to the fuses under the dash. As I noted before, I have no power to the fuses that go to the blower motor or windshield wipers. I also tried to a quick check to see if I brought power externally to the fuses and see if anything would work, but I did not get anything, but did not have a chance to spend much time on it at that time.
Again, comments are really appreciated.
Randy

kpr10is

iTrader: (9)

kpr10is

iTrader: (9)

If you're sure its just those three things, I'd say start by tracing back from the bottom which looks like either fuse D1 in the smaller fuse box (middle of the diagram), which has the WHT/PPL coming out of it, or fuse J1 (WHT/BLU) in the top diagram.

venturous

In looking at the schematic shown above and kpr10is's comments, I pulled the fuse box under the dash loose and found and checked the large white/blue wire that goes into it for voltage with the switch on and I have no voltage on it. I found another large white/blue wire that goes from the 65 amp fuse and checked voltage on both sides of that fuse. I am showing 12+ volts at that point. I then checked continuity between both ends of the white/blue wire and I have none.
My question now is even though the schematic does not show it, is there any other detours or anything in the white/blue wire that goes from the 65 amp fuse near the battery to the under dash fuse box? I need to know this before I start unwrapping wiring harnesses to hunt the open, or just replace the wire from one end to the other.
This has been a major Pain in the A$$ as I have had to drag out my old El Camino with a rather built 327 small block in it that gets about 10mpg at best. Man, I have missed my Maxima. I really do appreicate the help I have received on this problem.
Randy

kpr10is

iTrader: (9)

Make sure you are checking the right wires at the same time here. The reason I bolded the above is because the 65 Amp white/blue should have 12v all the time, regardless of the key/switch being on. The other white/blue coming from the ignition is what will trigger your accessory relay. First things first, test the white/blue ignition wire, metering while turning the key to make sure its a switched ignition. Then, test the other white/blue which should have voltage all the time, as should the 65A fuse. If this is what you already did, then your post was just confusing.

After that is done and you find that you still have this problem, I would run a new power wire from the battery to the white/blue that doesn't have constant voltage (just running it along side the car as a test). Fuse it just in case. According to the diagram, your mirrors should also currently not be functioning, so once you power up that wire, test everything to make sure it's the culprit - mirrors, blower, wipers, cig lighter. It would be very weird for one single factory wire to go bad, as you probably know.

Good luck.

venturous

Ok, I may have confused you a little as the large white/blue wire at the 65 amp fuse is hot all the time. There is another white/blue wire that goes from the ignition switch, I believe, but it is much smaller. The large wire, which I suspect is about a #8 gauge, appears to be unique enough visually that it has got to be the same wire. I looked at the bottom of the other relays in front of the battery and did not see a white/blue wire that big.
I can not see one, but is there a firewall connector on this car like there were in old cars? I remember having an intermitten open in my old Chevelle and it was where the wiring harness from the front of the car plugged up at the firewall.
I guess the problem I am having is thinking this large wire could be broke on it's own somewhere in the harness. That is why I am trying to determine if there are any other connection points between the 65 amp fuse and the back of the under dash fuse box.
Guys, again, I really appreciate the help.
randy

kpr10is

iTrader: (9)

I can't say I know whether theres a connector anywhere, but I would also hesitate to believe that this wire is 'broken'. I know you tested both sides of the 65A fuse, but have you tested this wire a few inches (or a foot) away from the 65A fuse, to see if its the connection in the larger fuse box? It sounds like you may have, but worth asking.

Beyond that, it's going to probably be opening the wire loom in a few various spots to narrow down where the voltage is being lost.

At least you're making progress.

venturous

Thanks kpr10is, I just got home and am getting ready to go to the garage and do exactly what you said. I am going to verify the wire on each end is good away from the terminals and then make a better effort to see where it goes thru the harness on both ends.
Again, thanks for your suggestions.
Randy

dee.signs

Go to PDFtown,.com, They have master maintenence manuals online for download, FREE!!

venturous

Well, after the schematic that is posted and finding the correct wires, I was able to locate the break in the large white/blue wire. It was above the left front tire where the car had been run without the inner finder liner at one time and the harness had dropped down and rubbed on the tire. The white/blue wire had had the insulation worn off in about a half inch area and over time had corroded and finally broken. This also explains how for awhile I was getting some inrermitten voltage that would not support any significant load. I cut out a section about three inches long, resoldered another wire in place and then shrink sleeved and taped both the wiring harness and the plastic sleeve that covers it. I also mounted it better as the factory wire ties were also broke. Also, since the large white/red wire showed some insulation wear, I also replaced a section in it.
Guys, As I have said, I really appreciate the support. I am usually pretty good at mechanical stuff and sometimes do ok in electrical, but when you have something so out of the ordinary and have power at some parts of a system due to relays and not power to others, it can be difficult.
Man, it feels good to drive my Maxima again and have wipers and heat and other stuff.
Randy

kpr10is

iTrader: (9)

Good deal man. I bet you're stoked.

bent9

Congratulations.