bobflood

You are on the right track here. I chose to get a remanufactured MAF, but it's a lot more than the $40 these folks are charging, so I understand if you go with their used ones. The installation is very easy, even for a noob.

MAF stands for Mass Airflow Sensor - it measures the amount of air going into the engine and communicates that information to the computer. The MAF itself is a big round tube about 3+ inches in diameter and 5 inches long with a square box on top; the box has an three prong plug on one side. A socket from the wiring harness plugs into the MAF. One end of the MAF is held onto the top of the air filter box with four 10mm bolts; there is a big o-ring at this junction that seals the MAF to the air filter. You should be able to reuse this O-ring as long as it is not broken. The other end of the MAF has a large rubber seal around it that pushes into a big square plastic box and is held in by a large hose clamp. This rubber seal was torn up on mine; since it is after the sensor itself (where you do NOT want air leaks) I chose to replace it. I think it is called the MAF Isolator(??); it was about $10 from the dealer.

You can do this!!

sho89mtx

iTrader: (1)

Ok, when I was orignally taking all of it off to clean it, I did noticed a rubber peice was torn around the MAF, is that part of the MAF? That might be the MAF isolator that your talking about. Can I just call any NIssan Dealership and ask for a MAF isolator and they will have it and it will only be $10?

sho89mtx

iTrader: (1)

this question is to anyone that knows because I migth be getting the MAF today and don't want to take everything apart if i'm gonna need an extra part to complete the job, especially with my mechanical skills

GGENIUS

iTrader: (1)

dude. the maf is going to come with everything you need.

sho89mtx

iTrader: (1)

yeah, but that seal is broken on mine to when I looked at it and it's a seperate part like the guy said about 2 posts above me. I think I may have found the part# is it 16523-31u00 called a maf air insulator or something?

cashoit

are u talking about the gasket.

Its been awhile since i was stock

luke95gxe

iTrader: (4)

yeah hes talkin bout the rubber gasket that goes around the maf on the stock intake just cuz im a nice guy and have no reason to ever go back stock i sent that with the maf to scott

this it?

sho89mtx

iTrader: (1)

thanks, I appreciate it. I think that's it, for some reason I was thinking it was square, but i've only seen it once, it's wrapped up with duct tape right now at the moment =)

cashoit

yo luke man...i may need u to send me a bunch of the relays in the fuse box between the battery and driver side headlight. 20 bucks and i pay shipping. I let u know...i may hit the junkyard by me for the relays.

luke95gxe

iTrader: (4)

yeah no problem

yeah cash just let me know what u if u end up needing it

bobflood

sho98: Yes, that part in the pics is the part I was talking about - and the MAF I ordered did NOT come with it. However, sounds like luke95 took care of you. Just make sure you put a new one of those on - regardless of where you get it from. Like I said, you do NOT want air leaks downstream of the MAF.

sho89mtx

iTrader: (1)

question, after I disconnect the batter, dissassemble everything and get my new MAF installed, do I need to plug in my code reader and clear the codes or will it clear the codes automatically without doing it since the problem would be fixed?

cashoit

the MAF code wont clear for 100 miles or so. ECU needs to relearn during this time

bobflood

Question is - why would you not use your code reader to clear the code?? That way, you will know more quickly if you fixed problem, as light will stay off and P0100 code will not reappear.

luke95gxe

iTrader: (4)

deff use the code reader to clear the codes
you should be getting that thing to day scott let me know if it get u rolling

sho89mtx

iTrader: (1)

well played sir, I actually don't know how to, i'll have to read the instructions. It's a pretty basic one, but my friend who loaned it to me lost the instructions and he can't remember either

luke95gxe

iTrader: (4)

there is a way in the stickies that shows u how to clear the codes manully

maxirob

See this thread....I went through this same thing. It's NOT the Knock Sensor (does not throw a ECU code) it's not your gas, etc. - and yes I would clear the code as soon as you replace/repair your MAF. The internal connections in the MAF are the problem. Stay away from aftermarket cheap MAF's -they work but the car like crap. Some one on the org was selling MAF's very reasonably priced...

http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...lem-fixed.html

bobflood

My Actron reader has a menu item that says "Erase Codes" - guess I just assumed that all readers had the same/similar thing. Good thing it was that obvious, cause the instructions with it sucked.

sho89mtx

iTrader: (1)

as of today, wednesday, still don't have the part yet. Where are u sending it from Japan? It's ok though since you added the extra seal for free, i'll wait and be happy when I can put it on.

cashoit

waiting for a car part can feel like pure agony lol

99zx2

iTrader: (3)

p0446 is a code for the evap vent control valve circuit malfunction or something like that. it's most likely your vent valve on the charcoal canister behind the rear driver's wheel (you'll see it when you lay underneath the car).
here's my thread with the same code: http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...evap-code.html

ended up replacing the valve twice (first replacement was bad) to get rid of that code. you won't notice any driveability problems, just the annoying cel light. go to your local junk yard or the one in okc (pull-a-part 1200 S Santa Fe Ave), and get yourself some parts. plenty of maximas and i30's there.

bobflood

On mine, it was actually the "vacuum cut valve bypass valve" that was physically broken - one of the plastic nipples had broken somehow, but the little lenght of vacuum hose held it in place so it looked OK. It's mounted on a bracket with another part just in front of the cannister - until I started seriously poking around and noticed the hose move, I couldn't see the problem. Replaced it with a JY part and good so far.

ef9

iTrader: (8)

Might be a good idea to purchase your own OBDII code reader. Comes in very handy, especially if you decide to diagnose someone else's car.

oldmax99

I have a 1999 Maxima with 255,000 miles. The car always ran great. We've always kept up with the scheduled maintenance until this last year when we moved and didn't have our mechanic anymore. We did have the oil changed but no tune ups. All of a sudden one day the car started chugging at a stop. We took it in and they replaced a fuel injector. That seemed to fix the problem. Now though sometimes when I excelerate from a stop or after slowing down the car chugs. The transmission fluid is very dark. Could the tranny be the problem?

oldmax99

I have a 1999 Maxima with 255,000 miles. Has always been maintained regularly. Had a problem all of a sudden with it chugging and wanting to stall. Took it in and they replaced a fuel injector. Now when I excelerate from a stop or after slowing down the car will kind of chug and jerk. Doesn't do it always though. Checked the tranny fluid and it's very dark. Could it be the tranny?

sho89mtx

iTrader: (1)

I did it! Used a Flat head screwdriver a 10mm wrench and a pair of pliers and 30 minutes later, I installed a new MAF sensor and the car is fixed. Thanks guys for all your help! Saved close to $560 doing this myself!

Trini Boom

iTrader: (5)

The org. FTW!!!! Glad we were able to help you out and save a bunch of money.

beatdown97

iTrader: (2)

how do you test the MAF? i have an extra one from when i got my intake and im not sure if its a good one or not..
If its a good one ill keep it (as backup) or try to sell it on here in the classifieds
so how do you test them?

beatdown97

iTrader: (2)

Hey man i have a question.. if i paid you for the part and some for your trouble would you grab something at the pick and pull in OKC? i live about 12 or so hours from there and i dont know where any pick and pulls are around here..

luke95gxe

iTrader: (4)

i sold him the maf i just install it on my car for a week thats how i test them

scott glad it worked out for you bro

cashoit

i would replace the fluid.

Clean MAF and TB per how tos

cashoit

bobflood

We knew you could do it!!

sho89mtx

iTrader: (1)

The car drives awesome, I cleared the codes, but p0446 wont clear and it says it's the evap canister control valve, which I already replaced a couple weeks ago. Is there something u have to do when u replace it afterwards that I didn't do or something? I also checked all the hose to that part and everything is fine. I guess it's not that big of a deal because it doesn't affect how it runs, it runs awesome right now. Just if I ever sell my car it's gonna be hard to sell with a check engine light on all the time, u know? What do u guys suggest to fix this problem?

bobflood

There are a couple more parts on a bracket just in front of the evap cannister that are all interconnected with chunks of vacuum hose and have electrical connectors on them; these eventually lead to a metal tubing that runs up to the front of the car to another valve on the engine. I got the whole bracket with all the parts on it at the JY and replaced the entire thing. (That's when I finally found the broken nipple on vacuum cut valve bypass valve.) Check every piece of vacuum hose for leaks; clean all of the electrical connections. I have an excellent PDF diagram of all of the EVAP components; PM me with an email address and I'll send it to you. You also need to download the "EC" section of the FSM for your year car from the Knowledge Base; it's got good trouble shooting detail for all emission relates systems like the EVAP. Good luck - you can do this.

99zx2

iTrader: (3)

^^if you haven't done so, download the factory manual - one of the best things you can do. it has the necessary steps to troubleshoot any codes/problems.

cashoit

The part u replaced it could be defective.

sho89mtx

iTrader: (1)

it's been on hot here, haven't been able to check around the bottom of the car by the evap canister, but still having the evap code and I noticed everytime I fill my car with gas, there is a very bad gas smell everytime and also it takes a while to start if that helps narrow the search down. I'm sure it's a cut in a hose or somewhere, just need to get down there and search around I guess

99zx2

iTrader: (3)

refer to my original post about that code. it's cooling down now, so get under there! taking a while to start? try cycling the key off-on (w/o starting, of course), and then try to start it. does it start faster? could be several things, but a most likely culprit is the fuel pressure regulator. small *** part, but costs about $90 new