chugging, bucking and stalling problem?
05-25-2011, 12:55 PM
#1
chugging, bucking and stalling problem?
I have a 1997 Nissan Maxima SE and a while ago a check engine light came on and had it read by a mechanic and they said it was the knock sensor. A couple of weeks ago it was stalling on me, chugging really bad, so I figured it must be time to get the knock sensor fixed. Took it to the mechanic, he took out my knock sensor, said it was cracked in half, installed a new one and sent me on my way. I currently don't have any check engine lights on, but it still chugs, bucks at 40+mph and stalls almost everyday at stops. What could be the problem? Anyone have any maxima related issues that this sound familar with? My dad thought it might just be bad gas since I fill up with 7-11 cheap gas and put some of that chemtool injector cleaner, but 2 days later, it still runs like crap. Please help,
Scott
Scott
05-25-2011, 01:33 PM
#3
took the words right from my mind. my previous max was a 97 (RIP) and i had a hell of a time workin out the stalling and hesitation. the maf goes out on the 97s because of a bad seal at the front of the assembly (closest to the air box) best thing to do if your not lookin for show quality is to use duct tape and common sense to seal it up.
05-26-2011, 06:49 AM
#8
Member who somehow became The President of The SE-L Club
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Posts: 16,033
Your initial check engine light was not set because of the knock sensor, there had to be another code along with the KS code to make the light come on.
Your mechanic should have seen the other code before he cleared it.
Before you start swapping parts out, check for any stored or pending error codes.
It must have detected the problem before, and it most likely will again. Don't be surprised if it throws another knock sensor code, just ignore it. Might take a few days, hopefully sooner.
Your mechanic should have seen the other code before he cleared it.
Before you start swapping parts out, check for any stored or pending error codes.
It must have detected the problem before, and it most likely will again. Don't be surprised if it throws another knock sensor code, just ignore it. Might take a few days, hopefully sooner.
05-26-2011, 09:52 AM
#10
k, I have the codes on a piece of paper from my mechanic, when I get home, i'll look at it and post them. I really appreciate all of your help guys. I think I can handle the MAF installation myself, just wondered how much the part costs and the mechanics always tell me that Nissan's like OEM parts and sometimes don't work well with aftermarket ones, is that true or a myth?
05-26-2011, 01:33 PM
#11
Member who somehow became The President of The SE-L Club
iTrader: (19)
Join Date: Jun 2001
Posts: 16,033
With engine management parts, it's usually better to stick with OEM.
Instead of purchasing a new OE part, consider a used one.
Check the For Sale section of these forums to help you locate the part you may need.
Instead of purchasing a new OE part, consider a used one.
Check the For Sale section of these forums to help you locate the part you may need.
05-27-2011, 06:47 AM
#12
ok, talked to the mechanic, it originally shot out a p0325, which they said was a knock sensor code and now it's replaced. then they say it had the evaporation commisin codes P0450, p0445 and p0443
does that help narrow it down to anyone?
also they said the MAF is $572, that seems crazy!
does that help narrow it down to anyone?
also they said the MAF is $572, that seems crazy!
Last edited by sho89mtx; 05-27-2011 at 06:50 AM.
05-27-2011, 08:06 AM
#14
05-28-2011, 12:24 PM
#16
I've also noticed before it stalls it makes a weird sound coming from the back, could this a fuel pump or something?
05-28-2011, 03:41 PM
#17
I looked at the FSM, it said one of those codes was a fauly Evap Solenoid control valve, so I went out, spent $106 and replaced it with a friend and it still drives like crap, and even through a check engine light on.
I've also noticed before it stalls it makes a weird sound coming from the back, could this a fuel pump or something?
I've also noticed before it stalls it makes a weird sound coming from the back, could this a fuel pump or something?
Ok you need to slow down a bit herwe and properly diagnose your car. First off, those codes have nothing to do with the way your car is operating. They are just emissions to pass inspections.
You say that your car is bucking. Does this occur only in D?? If so, is the car fully warm or still cold and warming up?
Next, when was the last time any maintenance work was done on the car before this mechanic? There is a lot of unknowns here which you need to fill us in on. Out of curiosity, what color is your tranny fluid?? Its not related to your problem but it will help to know the condition of the car.
05-28-2011, 04:49 PM
#18
Ok you need to slow down a bit herwe and properly diagnose your car. First off, those codes have nothing to do with the way your car is operating. They are just emissions to pass inspections.
You say that your car is bucking. Does this occur only in D?? If so, is the car fully warm or still cold and warming up?
Next, when was the last time any maintenance work was done on the car before this mechanic? There is a lot of unknowns here which you need to fill us in on. Out of curiosity, what color is your tranny fluid?? Its not related to your problem but it will help to know the condition of the car.
You say that your car is bucking. Does this occur only in D?? If so, is the car fully warm or still cold and warming up?
Next, when was the last time any maintenance work was done on the car before this mechanic? There is a lot of unknowns here which you need to fill us in on. Out of curiosity, what color is your tranny fluid?? Its not related to your problem but it will help to know the condition of the car.
Had the car worked on a lot, also had the fluids checks, they all were fine. My car has 177k on it, but used to drive like a new car. It's all of a sudden it's driving like crap! Replaced a knock sensor for $450, then they said the codes didn't go off, but they found a seal around my gas tank that was bad, so they replaced that and it took the codes off, then it started doing this, I went out and replaced the EVAP control valve since it was located exactly where I was hearing the noise, it made sense to me and because it was a common problem on our cars, now i fixed it and runs even worse. I don't know what to do, but maybe sell the car right now. Put close to $600 on a car in the last 2 weeks.
05-28-2011, 06:11 PM
#19
My car does it any gear I put it in once it does it. D, Reverse, Park. Usually is real bad when i'm at a stop, it drops the rpms', makes weird noise from the back of my car and then turns off. So I have to put my car in Park at stops and keep the rpm's up to about 1500 or 2000 rpms for it not to stall. It happens fully warm, cold, all times.
Had the car worked on a lot, also had the fluids checks, they all were fine. My car has 177k on it, but used to drive like a new car. It's all of a sudden it's driving like crap! Replaced a knock sensor for $450, then they said the codes didn't go off, but they found a seal around my gas tank that was bad, so they replaced that and it took the codes off, then it started doing this, I went out and replaced the EVAP control valve since it was located exactly where I was hearing the noise, it made sense to me and because it was a common problem on our cars, now i fixed it and runs even worse. I don't know what to do, but maybe sell the car right now. Put close to $600 on a car in the last 2 weeks.
Had the car worked on a lot, also had the fluids checks, they all were fine. My car has 177k on it, but used to drive like a new car. It's all of a sudden it's driving like crap! Replaced a knock sensor for $450, then they said the codes didn't go off, but they found a seal around my gas tank that was bad, so they replaced that and it took the codes off, then it started doing this, I went out and replaced the EVAP control valve since it was located exactly where I was hearing the noise, it made sense to me and because it was a common problem on our cars, now i fixed it and runs even worse. I don't know what to do, but maybe sell the car right now. Put close to $600 on a car in the last 2 weeks.
Don't give up yet my friend. The car only gets this bad from neglect. If I understand you correctly, if you come to a stop with it in D, it will cut off correct? What I would suggest is starting with the basic stuff. Remove your spark plugs and see the condition of them if they have any traces of oil or discoloring at the tip. Second, I would remove the IACV (Idle Air Control Valve) and give it a good cleaning with Throttle Body Cleaner. Post a pic of it before cleaning so I can see how much carbon is built up. Could be your EGR tube is clogged also which could also be the PCV valve is clogged which could also cause this problem. This is why I asked the condition of the car.
05-28-2011, 07:23 PM
#20
Don't give up yet my friend. The car only gets this bad from neglect. If I understand you correctly, if you come to a stop with it in D, it will cut off correct? What I would suggest is starting with the basic stuff. Remove your spark plugs and see the condition of them if they have any traces of oil or discoloring at the tip. Second, I would remove the IACV (Idle Air Control Valve) and give it a good cleaning with Throttle Body Cleaner. Post a pic of it before cleaning so I can see how much carbon is built up. Could be your EGR tube is clogged also which could also be the PCV valve is clogged which could also cause this problem. This is why I asked the condition of the car.
Scott
05-30-2011, 09:02 AM
#21
tried all that stuff, found the seal around the MAF cracked, but not really bad, used duct tape to seal it, still nothing worked. I have no clue what it is right now, but nothing has fixed it
05-30-2011, 09:30 PM
#22
06-01-2011, 08:14 AM
#23
we did all My dad could help me with. We couldn't understand from the diagrams where the IACV was, so that's the only part we didn't do. We took apart the airbox,unclamped it, cleaned my K&N air filter, ran some throttle body cleaner in the throttle body etc, but still not luck. The only thing my Dad did fix was the stalling problem. He did something to my Idle to increase it in Drive from 500rpm to 800rpms and now it doesn't stall anymore. It still drives like poop, but doesn't die anymore. My friend is gonna let me borrow his Code reader and hopefully i'll get to do it again because since I installed the EVap Solenoid contorl valve, the check engine light popped back on and it might be different codes
06-01-2011, 12:59 PM
#25
06-01-2011, 01:13 PM
#26
06-01-2011, 01:43 PM
#27
Junior Member
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Southern Illinois
Posts: 18
I am having similar issues with stalling. throws knock sensor code and rear o2 code. just had plugs replaced and cleaned intake area up when changing valve cover gaskets. 95 max se with 180000 miles. any ideas? i am going to try iacv next
06-01-2011, 02:44 PM
#29
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Powder Springs, GA
Posts: 400
P0100 is for the MAF. P0446 is an EVAP system code. For P01000 just changed my MAF; got a reman Nissan one on line from autopartsexpress.com for about $157 after core return. Cured the drivability problem instantly. P0446 was caused by a broken vacuum cut valve bypass valve; it was on a bracket just outside the EVAP cannister just behind drivers real wheel. All those parts from a pull-a-part lot. EVAP issue did not affect drivability; just needed to get the CEL off for inspection.
06-01-2011, 02:58 PM
#30
P0100 is for the MAF. P0446 is an EVAP system code. For P01000 just changed my MAF; got a reman Nissan one on line from autopartsexpress.com for about $157 after core return. Cured the drivability problem instantly. P0446 was caused by a broken vacuum cut valve bypass valve; it was on a bracket just outside the EVAP cannister just behind drivers real wheel. All those parts from a pull-a-part lot. EVAP issue did not affect drivability; just needed to get the CEL off for inspection.
06-01-2011, 06:01 PM
#31
if you are having a maf code then it prolly your maf u can find them here in the 4th gen classsified for about 40 shipped to your door i have 3 working tested maf and i know fallenone also have mafs for sale
06-01-2011, 06:07 PM
#32
06-01-2011, 06:18 PM
#36
06-02-2011, 07:06 AM
#37
ok, but the MAF's have MAF sensors already in them? I'm literally ignorant about autoparts, so don't be afraid to be honest and call me an idiot. I fully admit i'm an idiot about car stuff, that's why i'm constantly getting hosed by mechanics, I think they can sense it on me
06-02-2011, 07:25 AM
#38
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Worcester, MA
Posts: 4,011
06-02-2011, 08:10 AM
#39
06-02-2011, 08:22 AM
#40
