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Old 05-26-2011, 02:26 PM   #1
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p1400

I've been tryna find the best way to go about this code but am clueless. I've read through older threads and i've done the egr pipe cleaning as most threads have said. Still have code and my question is where do I go from here replace everything or is there just one component to replace like the egr control solenoid. Any help would be greatly appreciated. I need to pass emmissions.
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Old 05-27-2011, 05:37 AM   #2
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P1400 is for the EGRC solenoid. Cleaning the EGR guide tube won't work here. What you need to do is check the integrity of the harness, and then check the function of the valve. Follow the diagnostic procedure on page EC-294 of the 1996 FSM.
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Old 05-27-2011, 06:50 AM   #3
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Thanks for responding I've backprobed the harness while connected and got ten amps /ohms then I unhooked harness and had no continuity on solenoid
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Old 05-27-2011, 07:09 AM   #4
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My apologies its 0.10 amps with car running
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Old 05-27-2011, 07:24 AM   #5
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You need to measure the voltage on the one wire. It should be battery voltage. The other wire runs back to the ECU conenctor, and you need to measure resistance (ohms) on that wire. It should be really low, like below one. You should not really be measuring amps to check the harness, and you need to disconnect the ECU from the harness so you can't have the car running.

Additionally, you can apply battery voltage directly across the terminals of the solenoid and you should here it click.
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Old 05-27-2011, 09:16 AM   #6
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In dummy terms disconnect selenoid, turn car on (not started) and clamp around each wire separately and measures ohms as I am a novice do it yourselfer.
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Old 05-27-2011, 09:49 AM   #7
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Originally Posted by 96 SE JET View Post
In dummy terms disconnect selenoid, turn car on (not started) and clamp around each wire separately and measures ohms as I am a novice do it yourselfer.
Sorry about that, I wasn't trying to be difficult.

The solenoid is powered through the red/yellow (pin 2) wire when the ignition switch is in the ON or START positions. To activate the solenoid, the ECU grounds the blue/black (pin 1) with of the solenoid, which connects to the ECU at pin 103.

First, test for voltage at the solenoid with the ignition ON, but not with the car running. Remove the connector from the solenoid (its the green one). With the clip on the connector facing up, the pins are 1 and 2, from left to right.

Measure for battery voltage by placing the positive probe of the multimeter on pin 2 of the solenoid conenctor, and place the negative probe of the meter on the negative battery terminal. This voltage should be the same as if you were to measure the battery voltage directly by putting the positive probe on the positive battery post, and the negative probe on the negative post.

Next you must confirm that the wire from the solenoid conenctor has continuity to the ECU. The ignition swtich can be in the OFF position. Put the meter in resistance mode to measure ohms, and measure the resistance from pin 1 of the solenoid conenctor to pin 103 of the ECU conenctor. To access the ECU connector, you must remove a trim piece in the cabin on the left side of the front passenger foot well. Behind that trim piece, is the conenctor and the ECU. Loosen the screw used to secure the ECU connector to the ECU, and then remove the conenctor from the ECU. Refer to page EC-293 to locate pin 103 of the conenctor. You will probably have to wrap a small, solid piece of wire around the probe of your meter to get it inside the conenctor and make contact with pin 103.

I recommend getting a helper, or some alligator clips from Radio Shack to make the conenctor from the solenoid connector to the meter probes. You may need a piece of wire if the probes on the meter are not long enough.

You can also measure the resistance across the solenoid itself. The FSM does not specify a resistance, but I would guess around 50 ohms or so. The FSM also suggests testing the solenoid by applying battery voltage directly to it, with pin 1 being positive and pin 2 being negative. It appears that the numbering of the pins on the solenoid itself is opposite from the numbering on the solenoid conenctor. The illustrations in the FSM should help you figure it out.
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Old 05-27-2011, 10:08 AM   #8
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Thanks for the detailed info I don't have access to an FSM so i'll wing it on info. given
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Old 05-27-2011, 10:13 AM   #9
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I just fixed this issue with my 95 Maxima 2 weeks ago.

Out of the blue, the P1400 came up. I tested the resistance of the EGR solenoid valve and it was at 62. I had read somewhere where you could clean them by taking them apart so I figured, what the heck. Took it apart, cleaned it, re-installed it and checked resistance, was about 36 ohms, that was good.

Went about 2 days and it threw the code again. Checked the resistance, it was in the 52 range, however, if I let it cool, it would drop back down into the acceptable range. Doing all the other tests, yes, you could hear it click and it would work but as it got warm, it would most likely fail to work.

From what I read also, the ECU is looking for a resistance number and if this is out of range you will get the P1400 even though the solenoid will appear to work correctly.

I picked up one at the local Nissan dealership for $72 (only available at the dealer). Their quoted price was 145 but when I told them I could get it online from another local place for $72, they instantly matched the price. The place I could get it from required me to order it and have it shipped to me, they wouldn't honor the $72 price, in fact, their price if I picked it up from them was $127. (Crazy isn't it?). I needed it today and found someone that wanted to sell it.

Installed it in about 20 minutes and it's been fine ever since.


Just my experience, your mileage may vary.
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Old 05-27-2011, 10:37 AM   #10
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Thanks for the detailed info I don't have access to an FSM so i'll wing it on info. given
Click on the link in my post.
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Old 05-27-2011, 10:42 AM   #11
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Originally Posted by Dcarlton View Post
I just fixed this issue with my 95 Maxima 2 weeks ago.

Out of the blue, the P1400 came up. I tested the resistance of the EGR solenoid valve and it was at 62. I had read somewhere where you could clean them by taking them apart so I figured, what the heck. Took it apart, cleaned it, re-installed it and checked resistance, was about 36 ohms, that was good.

Went about 2 days and it threw the code again. Checked the resistance, it was in the 52 range, however, if I let it cool, it would drop back down into the acceptable range. Doing all the other tests, yes, you could hear it click and it would work but as it got warm, it would most likely fail to work.

From what I read also, the ECU is looking for a resistance number and if this is out of range you will get the P1400 even though the solenoid will appear to work correctly.

I picked up one at the local Nissan dealership for $72 (only available at the dealer). Their quoted price was 145 but when I told them I could get it online from another local place for $72, they instantly matched the price. The place I could get it from required me to order it and have it shipped to me, they wouldn't honor the $72 price, in fact, their price if I picked it up from them was $127. (Crazy isn't it?). I needed it today and found someone that wanted to sell it.

Installed it in about 20 minutes and it's been fine ever since.


Just my experience, your mileage may vary.
Cleaning the valve should have no effect on the resistance, but temperature surely will. The coil is sealed in the housing. The part that you clean is the valve itself, not the solenoid that actuates it. Resistance does change dramatically with temperature, though. Unless the temperature of the coil was the same when you took those resistance measurements, you can't really compare them without knowing the temperature difference, and the changes in resistance of the coil as a function of temperature.
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Old 05-27-2011, 11:21 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dcarlton View Post
I just fixed this issue with my 95 Maxima 2 weeks ago.

Out of the blue, the P1400 came up. I tested the resistance of the EGR solenoid valve and it was at 62. I had read somewhere where you could clean them by taking them apart so I figured, what the heck. Took it apart, cleaned it, re-installed it and checked resistance, was about 36 ohms, that was good.

Went about 2 days and it threw the code again. Checked the resistance, it was in the 52 range, however, if I let it cool, it would drop back down into the acceptable range. Doing all the other tests, yes, you could hear it click and it would work but as it got warm, it would most likely fail to work.

From what I read also, the ECU is looking for a resistance number and if this is out of range you will get the P1400 even though the solenoid will appear to work correctly.

I picked up one at the local Nissan dealership for $72 (only available at the dealer). Their quoted price was 145 but when I told them I could get it online from another local place for $72, they instantly matched the price. The place I could get it from required me to order it and have it shipped to me, they wouldn't honor the $72 price, in fact, their price if I picked it up from them was $127. (Crazy isn't it?). I needed it today and found someone that wanted to sell it.

Installed it in about 20 minutes and it's been fine ever since.


Just my experience, your mileage may vary.
Thanx for info
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Old 05-27-2011, 11:31 AM   #13
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Originally Posted by ajm8127 View Post
Sorry about that, I wasn't trying to be difficult.

The solenoid is powered through the red/yellow (pin 2) wire when the ignition switch is in the ON or START positions. To activate the solenoid, the ECU grounds the blue/black (pin 1) with of the solenoid, which connects to the ECU at pin 103.

First, test for voltage at the solenoid with the ignition ON, but not with the car running. Remove the connector from the solenoid (its the green one). With the clip on the connector facing up, the pins are 1 and 2, from left to right.

Measure for battery voltage by placing the positive probe of the multimeter on pin 2 of the solenoid conenctor, and place the negative probe of the meter on the negative battery terminal. This voltage should be the same as if you were to measure the battery voltage directly by putting the positive probe on the positive battery post, and the negative probe on the negative post.

Next you must confirm that the wire from the solenoid conenctor has continuity to the ECU. The ignition swtich can be in the OFF position. Put the meter in resistance mode to measure ohms, and measure the resistance from pin 1 of the solenoid conenctor to pin 103 of the ECU conenctor. To access the ECU connector, you must remove a trim piece in the cabin on the left side of the front passenger foot well. Behind that trim piece, is the conenctor and the ECU. Loosen the screw used to secure the ECU connector to the ECU, and then remove the conenctor from the ECU. Refer to page EC-293 to locate pin 103 of the conenctor. You will probably have to wrap a small, solid piece of wire around the probe of your meter to get it inside the conenctor and make contact with pin 103.

I recommend getting a helper, or some alligator clips from Radio Shack to make the conenctor from the solenoid connector to the meter probes. You may need a piece of wire if the probes on the meter are not long enough.

You can also measure the resistance across the solenoid itself. The FSM does not specify a resistance, but I would guess around 50 ohms or so. The FSM also suggests testing the solenoid by applying battery voltage directly to it, with pin 1 being positive and pin 2 being negative. It appears that the numbering of the pins on the solenoid itself is opposite from the numbering on the solenoid conenctor. The illustrations in the FSM should help you figure it out.
Unhooked clip and probed pos-orange/yllw and neg-blue/black I got a reading of 7.62 to 9.8 fluxuating is that good or bad. It's sure not battery voltage of 12+ volts
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Old 05-27-2011, 11:32 AM   #14
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Unhooked clip and probed pos-orange/yllw and neg-blue/black I got a reading of 7.62 to 9.8 fluxuating is that good or bad. It's sure not battery voltage of 12+ volts
You have to measure the voltage between the positive wire on the connector, and the negative battery post. Do not try to measure between the two wires on the connector.
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Old 05-27-2011, 12:02 PM   #15
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Sorry and thx for your patience and time. Voltage fluctuates from .010 up to .080
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Old 05-27-2011, 12:08 PM   #16
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its shot man. Hit the JY or dealer and get another
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Old 05-27-2011, 12:16 PM   #17
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Sorry and thx for your patience and time. Voltage fluctuates from .010 up to .080
Are you sure you are measuring the positive wire here (FSM says its red/yellow)? If the positive wire is not showing any voltage, check fuse 17.
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Old 05-27-2011, 12:32 PM   #18
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Definately sure positive- orange/yllw and negative to negative battery post. Checked fuse 17, 10a fuse and it was good.
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Old 05-27-2011, 01:17 PM   #19
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I looked, and fuse 17 also powers the coil for the fuel pump relay, so if it was bad, your car wouldn't run. As long as corrosion on the conenctor wasn't causing the problem, I think it's safe to say you have a broken wire somewhere.

It might be a good idea to check the blue/black wire back to the ECU conenctor, and also the function of the solenoid to make sure it works when connected directly to the battery. You want to make sure you've isolated the problem, just as a way to check yourself. If you check these two things, and no problems are found, it's almost certain there is a problem with the power delivery to the solenoid. Also, you can temporarily power the solenoid to make sure that the MIL goes away, thereby confirming the problem by taking the broken wire out of the equation.

There is no easy way to find a problem like this, though you can check common points of failure such as any connections in the wire. If you start as close the the fuse box as possible and work "down stream" you can confirm voltage is present on the wire as you go. This is going to be a pain though with the wire bundles behind the dash. Conversely, you may want to check the engine bay first for signs that the wire is broken. I would think the wires in the engine bay are more exposed than ones behind the dash. Definitely look at the connection between the wire and the crimp terminal in the EGRC solenoid conenctor.

Unfortunately, I'm leaving work at 330 and won't have access to a computer until Tuesday. So you're on your own until then unless you can get assistance from someones else. Good luck.
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Old 05-27-2011, 01:37 PM   #20
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I looked, and fuse 17 also powers the coil for the fuel pump relay, so if it was bad, your car wouldn't run. As long as corrosion on the conenctor wasn't causing the problem, I think it's safe to say you have a broken wire somewhere.

It might be a good idea to check the blue/black wire back to the ECU conenctor, and also the function of the solenoid to make sure it works when connected directly to the battery. You want to make sure you've isolated the problem, just as a way to check yourself. If you check these two things, and no problems are found, it's almost certain there is a problem with the power delivery to the solenoid. Also, you can temporarily power the solenoid to make sure that the MIL goes away, thereby confirming the problem by taking the broken wire out of the equation.

There is no easy way to find a problem like this, though you can check common points of failure such as any connections in the wire. If you start as close the the fuse box as possible and work "down stream" you can confirm voltage is present on the wire as you go. This is going to be a pain though with the wire bundles behind the dash. Conversely, you may want to check the engine bay first for signs that the wire is broken. I would think the wires in the engine bay are more exposed than ones behind the dash. Definitely look at the connection between the wire and the crimp terminal in the EGRC solenoid conenctor.

Unfortunately, I'm leaving work at 330 and won't have access to a computer until Tuesday. So you're on your own until then unless you can get assistance from someones else. Good luck.
Thanx for your help
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Old 05-27-2011, 02:13 PM   #21
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My point with 'cleaning it' was to resolve this as an issue. The new one had resistance in the 36-37 range, exactly what the old one was when cool. Had I tested the old one at cold and gone with just that reading, I would have assumed it wasn't the solenoid but something else (ie. cleaning it of crud, etc.). I eliminated the easy things, cleaning, checking resistance, before moving on to something more timely/costly. My point was, don't go with the resistance reading when cold, it might be correct as it was in my case. Also, don't go with whether you hear a click or not, but worked as expected, even at the higher resistance level (it clicked). Evidently under operating conditions, it didn't work as expected though.

I know FSM's always say to check harness but unless something has been messing around with the harness and everything else is working as expected, the harness is usually the last thing to go wrong.

The easy way to check if the harness is working: Unplug the green connecter from the solenoid. Now, turn the key to the on position (do not crank engine). Now go back to the solenoid and gently push the green connector in (it doesn't have to go all the way in). If you hear the click, your solenoid is getting juice. If not, either the solenoid is really bad or the harness is bad. Then you can proceed to determine which is the problem. I would check those pins on the wiring to the green connector first for proper voltage. If you have voltage, then the solenoid is really dead. I suppose that's a possibility, mine wasn't really dead, it just operated outside of the acceptable range (around 36-37 ohms resistance).
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