SandyMax96

iTrader: (12)

I know, I know. This thread has been posted way previously! But I have tired from searching, and attempting the numerous troubleshooting tips that have been provided, but still, my car continues to shake.

I have, however, narrowed it down to possibly a couple of options left.

I have ruled out these possibilities from the equation, however:
Coils - Tested, inspected and checked. All Good.
Spark plugs - Just installed brand new NGK Platinums in all 6 plugs.
Hoses for leaks - checked, routed to their respectful positions

Now, this happened before I changed the plugs, reason for doing it in the first place, and because it was time, with the car at 258,xxx. I did notice that there was some slight oil leaking into through the spark plug seals, so that's;
1. Valve cover gaskets will be replaced later this month, along with new seals and grommets, both front and back.

2. I read that the MAF could also be a cause of the shakes during idle, but I wouldn't think that it'd have gone out, and if it has, please somebody point out if it could be a cause. TPS will be replaced as well, but again, I doubt that this has anything to do with the shaking.

3. I have no CELs, except for a ghost code for the intake air temperature sensor. I will be replacing this one with a new or used one, and if anybody has any input on this, please also let me know your thoughts!

4. The IACV screw adjusted to the near correct specifications, considering I'm running a SRI.

5. Lastly, the camshaft position sensor was taken out due to it leaking, and my mistake was to replace it with a junkyard one It DID stop the leaking, but... the shaking got even worse once I did so, so I put the original one back in, and it stopped shaking as much, but continues to leak due to the O-ring being old and worn.

So, my question is... What is the problem with my shakey car!



All criticism and suggestions will be greatly appreciated!

ChrisMan287

iTrader: (34)

Get a better CPS, change your IAT, clean your MAF, TB and IACV.

SandyMax96

iTrader: (12)

Simple as that dude? Huh. Do you know if MaximaJoe is the man to call for spare parts or if there's another member possibly from a dealer that could cut deals?

Oh, and, would you recommend that I do the cleaning now? I'm planning to get the Variable Intake installed once it gets to me later on this month.

beegeezy

iTrader: (3)

Is there a miss? Shaking while idling could be a sign of worn engine mounts...well, feeling it more would be a sign at least.

The last time I installed spark plugs on my car one of them cracked in half when I (correctly) torqued it down. The parts store guy said he'd never seen a plug break in half. This did throw a code though, so it was easier to diagnose.

SandyMax96

iTrader: (12)

I would think that checking the coil packs would rule out a misfire, and like I stated, the spark plugs were correctly placed in and torque down, to 1/8 of a turn. To my knowledge there isn't a broken one and let's hope not!

I'm not getting a misfire code, if that's what you're asking, and the mounts should be needed to replaced... At least, the main ones I'm worried about are the rear and left timing chain side one.

When I get the shaking, it's consecutively for maybe... 10 times at the most that it "thunks" then intermittenly once or twice.

beegeezy

iTrader: (3)

It smooths out when you're driving, right?

SandyMax96

iTrader: (12)

Yes it does. Inclusively, you can still feel the shaking during take off up until 1k rpms.

cashoit

Yup as simple as that.

To get rid of leaky UIM u will need to replace gaskets and spark plug gaskets as well. USE RTV on the corners or u will have vacuum leak issues.

Check motor mounts too

EDIT:

One more thing...

Saying your engine shakes is very vague. Gotta be more descriptive. Does it misfire, hesitate, or chug at idle? under load? Does the engine visibly shake? Suspension components good? HOw long it been shaking?All other maintenace complete? Need more info

Stephen Max

iTrader: (59)

You said you checked the coil packs, but how? If you just used a multimeter to measure resistance, they could check out okay and still be bad. Here's why:

Coils fail due to a breakdown in the internal winding insulation. Insulation breakdown is a gradual process and is characterized by a decrease in standoff voltage, especially at higher temperature. A coil pack has to be able to handle about 50k volts. When the insulation starts to fail, the full 50k voltage causes an internal short. The insulation may be fine at lower voltages, however, especially at the very low voltage (9V) that is applied when you use a multimeter.

What can you do about it?

1. Replace the failing coil pack. The problem is identifying which is the bad one.
2. Reduce the spark plug gap. A smaller gap reduces the voltage required to create the spark, so it may be possible to get below the standoff voltage capability of the damaged insulation and you can get some additional life out of the coil packs. You will lose some spark intensity, but I doubt you will notice.


...

ChrisMan287

iTrader: (34)

It's as simple as that. Maxima_Joe is the guy to go to. His pricing is great and always ships stuff out quick.

Now, you can wait till you get your variable intake but I wouldn't. It would just annoy the hell out of me. Plus if you fix (or try to fix) now, maybe your car will be 100% ready for the intake manifold swap and if there's a problem there, it'll be easier to track down.

SandyMax96

iTrader: (12)

As of a month ago, all the gaskets are BRAND NEW, since I cleaned out the internal LIM, and UIM, plus the IACV, granted it wasn't a thorough clean since I ran out of chemicals.

Also, I described how I'm getting the shaking, but to give you a thorough run-through, here it is again:

I'll warm up the car, start driving it since I leave for school every day, and I'll come, let's say, to the 5th stop of the way to the fwy. I pull up, I'm still in drive, no A/C, and out of the blue the car "tugs" a bit with the engine jerking forward (I've noticed since I've tried this with the parking brake on, while it was still in drive) and will do it randomly, once, twice, and if it's really hesitant, it will do it consecutively to about 8-10 times that it "tugs", keep in mind that this is all while I'm still in drive, at a stop, just idling my engine, waiting for the light to turn green. It will stop for a while, and every other random moment it will do the same thing. I haven't floored it, but when I'm driving past 2k rpm, it doesn't bog or tug, but then again, it may be that it's going too fast for me to notice.

The suspension is in great shape. I try to check everything out, almost every time I drive my car, from tire pressure to cracks or dents. I need to replace all my bushings, but I know THAT has nothing to do with the engine tugging a bit...

All other maintenance is well kept. As I've stated previously, oil change, spark plugs, gaskets (on U/LIM manifold replaced) liquids, brake rotors and pads, have all been done within this last month...
I checked the coil packs individually using an multimeter, following the process in the Haynes Manual. Check that there was an infinite resistance from terminal 1 to 2, then checking that there was some, and not zero, resistance going from 2 to 1 with the positive terminal on the #2 pin, and negative on the #1.

How would I be able to check if they're good or bad since that test obviously has it's flaws? I don't know if this is for us, but my father used to check whether they worked by taking the coils out, with the engine running, with the plug still in place, and making it touch against the valve cover to see if it "sparked" but I think that's for wired coils. What's the test that I could use for mine?


Oh, and some more info in case nobody got it...

Car has original 258,xxx with Original coil packs, covers, etc. The only aftermarket parts are the EGR solenoid valve, MAP/BARO solenoid valve, EVAP motor solenoid valve, and EVAP canister up over the manifold.

SandyMax96

iTrader: (12)

I think I'll just take your advice, and at this point go for the cheaper fix. I've already contacted Maxima_Joe, so all I have to do is wait for his reply.

And you're right. I would rather get rid of this problem before come the VI and it running like $h1t! I thought that it was because I ran regular for a while that it did the shaking, but ever since then, switched to premium and still nothing...

Thank you

ChrisMan287

iTrader: (34)

I suggest running some Seafoam in your gas. Maybe you have gummed up injectors.

SandyMax96

iTrader: (12)

Will do I hope it that all it's needed was a thorough cleaning and new CPS.

SandyMax96

iTrader: (12)

So there's a new discovery... It seems to be doing the "shaking" tugging of the engine, during idle, in drive... with the A/C turned on... with the fan, it goes back to normal, but kicking in the A/C button makes it shake like there's no tomorrow.

This just keeps adding up...

ChrisMan287

iTrader: (34)

Maybe your ECTS?

bobflood

You can just replace the o-ring. About $4 at the dealer.

SandyMax96

iTrader: (12)

I'll be doing that today... I still can't believe it's Fucxin $4 for a silly little O-ring!


I'll keep you guys updated on how it runs after. Today after school, this is what I'll be doing:
1. Replacing o-ring on camshaft position sensor (sensor is good still) and authentic..
2. Buying and replacing both; Temperature coolant switch and Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor
3. If it's not a lot at the dealership, buying the intake air temp sensor, otherwise, it's off to the junkyard to pocket a few...

Hopefully this brings to a halt the shaking/pinging/tugging. Wish me luck guys!

SandyMax96

iTrader: (12)

So Nissan decided that my extra $0.40 were crap and didn't promise my o-ring until Saturday... But, I did replace the ECTS and... It still shakes!


So now I'm going to wait until I get new gaskets for the valve covers to redo them... Since my friend told me that it was almost like a misfire. And I am getting oil in through the rear bank's spark plug tube seals. Any thoughts?

Oh, I did rule out cleaning everything but the MAF, which I will be doing later on this week, or perhaps tomorrow if my o-ring comes in... Plus getting a IAT from the junkyard or eBay since it's $73.00 before tax at Nissan

ChrisMan287

iTrader: (34)

Vacuum leaks will cause "misfiring" only at idle so that may be your problem.

SandyMax96

iTrader: (12)

Alright. I hadn't posted on in a while due to being busy with school and work, but here's what I have done and yet, the shaking continues.

1. Changed ECTS for a brand new one from autozone. - No change
2. Checked all spark plugs and switched out the "bad ones" with new ones - No change
3. Sprayed throttle body cleaner around hoses to check for change in RPMs for leaks - No change
4. Cleaned MAF, IACV, TB, and checked all hoses for cracks, leaks, anything - No change
5. Stopped using the A/C to lessen the bucking - No change (now it bucks just as much )
6. Checked TPS, IACV screw, for all specification positions - No change
7. Coils are check and tested, visually, functionally, and with meters - No change
8. New CPS with rand new OEM O-ring from Nissan - No change

So I've actually run out of ideas at this point, and the bucking is still happening.

As a refresher:

Engine "bucks/thunks/(misifres)" during idle, while in drive, waiting at a stop light, and does it intermittently, and stops doing it after reaching 1.7k RPMs.

I have checked my ECU for codes, and the only one that popped up at the moment was the P1447 for the Evap valve, but that's due to my charcoal buildup I get monthly from my EVAP canister, which will be cleared, cleaned and have the code cleared tomorrow after getting out from class, so I can clear the code, and run it again.

The only other true option I have of doing is to change the valve cover gasket, and its spark plug grommets, but that's not gonna happen until I have a long weekend to work on it since I've got my 01VI readily available.

Some other homies are telling me that it feels, looks, sounds like a misfire, but, again, I have no codes. The plug grommets are leaking oil into them, so could that have ANYTHING to do at all? I'm getting tired of feeling that engine bucking. It's killing me!



Oh, and thank you all again

pavelsmax

iTrader: (12)

Unless I missed it you say you cleaned your MAF but I didn't see that you said you tested it or swapped in for another one.

Issue sounds similar to what I just had and a new (used) MAF cured my issues.


If you know someone local with a 4th gen you could try swapping out MAFs to see if it fixes your problem.

SandyMax96

iTrader: (12)

I did clean it out, and it is working fine? To the best of my knowledge as far as I know. I haven't gotten a code yet, but I'll see if I can swap it out with a fellow orgers one to see if that's the issue. If so that would be soooooooooo much cheaper than having to get new coilpacks.

Thanks for the input dude. I'm gonna try to get it changed out this week I hope.

skim35

This could be just dry rotted engine mount. If you have over 100K miles on the car it maybe just tome to replace them.

ChrisMan287

iTrader: (34)

No IM leaks?

DBear

It sounds like MAF, although you'd expect to see a code. Cleaning isn't always enough. They do go bad, and here's a good explanation why: http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...af-sensor.html. I took an old MAF that had gone bad, resoldered it and put it back in, and it's been fine since.

NABU6

iTrader: (9)

I have a similar issue. When the car is in park, and in neutral, it idles fine, but when in drive and stopped, the idle drops to about 300-400rpm. While driving, it runs perfectly. As a matter of fact, when stopping at a red light (car is automatic), the car idles fine for a second, then idle speed drops. Could anybody help me out with this?

MaximaFeen718

i got the same problem. help

maxed_out_99

I would immediately turn to the MAF as well but to my surprise nobody mentioned the crank sensor unless I missed it (I skim sometimes) and the is directly related to the ignition system.
It's located behind the radiator on the trans bell housing one 10pm bolt and a clip is all that holds it in pull it out and see if it's all gunked up and clean it it's also a 3 wire hall effect sensor

concretesoundz

i was having the same problem and i also had the coils checked...it shud have gave u a misfire code when checked cuz ur check engine light shud b on...the # thats misfiring shud b your main concern...changed all spark plugs and change the coil that was misfiring and problem has not returned...hope this helps

weezeey

I had a very similar problem with my max, I cleaned the MAF and replaced the fuel filter which was nearly clogged and it runs like new now. Fuel Filter is commonly overlooked and can cause a world of engine issues if it's not free flowing.

SandyMax96

iTrader: (12)

The fuel filter is brand new, and was replaced about a month ago when I had to work on my manifold. But thanks for the heads up. I'll be looking into all the injectors to see if that could also cause a problem with it.
I haven't had an engine misfire code, or ANY cel for that matter. I checked the coils by swapping it out with a friends, and my coils work great on his, but on mine, they also show signs that they're fine.

We just ran a compression test on my car, we visually checked all the spark plugs, and they were replaced, 2 months now, ago, and didn't look charred of anything, except for cylinder 1, which had some oil on it. I'll be doing a valve cover gasket and spark plug seal replacement when I get the 01VI installed toward the end of this month. Thanks for your input though!
You know what, I will be checking that tomorrow if it's not raining. I didn't even think about that! but I will see if the REF crankshaft has any residue on it. Thanks dude! and as far as the MAF, mine is still strong and kicking. Replaced it with a buddy of mine's and immediately got a code. Slapped mine back on, and it went away after resetting, along with the hard start it initially gave me with the other guys.
Check your throttle body cable dude. It could be that the screw is a bit too lose on the opening of your throttle body. Did you recently do any manifold/tb work? If so, you could have accidently moved the cable to its "unspecified" settings.

VisciousMo

iTrader: (4)

Sounds like you are doing your homework when it comes to your problem. I hope you get everything fixed, good luck!

Fauken

iTrader: (6)

Compression test for the win!!!

Wolff2012

This could be just dry rotted engine mount.

cashoit

+1

If u have no CEL or no other drivability issues and the car cabin vibrates, then its motor mounts.

SandyMax96

iTrader: (12)

Thanks dude. I appreciate the cheering at least, hehe.
I wouldn't think that the motor mounts would cause such a strong vibration, well, bucking on the engine, especially harder when the A/C or compressor on the defogger is on. But I do know that my rear and left (from inside the car) is almost done for, and would replace it but only once the motor is truly done for. Or, could that affect drivability much? I don't see any other problems when I'm driving, only when AT IDLE during a stop, in drive, waiting for the light to turn green.


On a side note, I was testing my injectors, and only am able to do the front, but... it seems that I might have found at least one culprit. Injector from cylinder #4 is 48 ohms! Not like the specified 10-14 which the other two beside it are resting at, cylinder #2 is at 11, and #6 at 10.5. So I'll have to swap out those injectors, and test the ones in the back to see if they're also good or bad, but so far, it is looking like an injector problem... muahahahha

YatesCO Car 1205

Would a bad MAF throw a code?

I am having similar problems with my 98 Max. It's throwing P0110 (IAT) and P0301 (Cyl 1 Misfire). Ignition coil 1 was switched with 2 and it didn't change the 0301 code any. Spark plug was changed....and still nothing.

I thought maybe the Camshaft or Crankshaft sensor, but they are not throwing codes. EGR or 02 Sensors aren't throwing anything.....and there is no "rotten egg" smell at the tailpipe....I'm kind of at a loss here.

Djiv305

I've got the same problem. It wasn't too bad at first but it has been getting worse. I was told it was the motor mounts when the shaking first started. I chose to ignore it (like a dumba$$) because I only had one code for the iacv. Fixed that and the shaking continues. So after the holidays I will change all 4 of them and see if that is the problem.

Swazey

yes, general maintenance doesn't cost anything so I would strongly suggest you clean. It would eliminate the TB and IACV being the cause of the problem