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Rack and pinion, new, used or remaufactred?

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Old 03-20-2012, 11:14 AM   #1
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Rack and pinion, new, used or remaufactred?

Well it looks like Im gonna have to replace the rack and pinion on my max. Both boots are torn, the driverside is completely torn off and theres fluid everywhere. The question is, whats a good replacement? should I go with a remanufactered rack? a brand new one? or even a used one? Any advice is much appreciated....

I was looking at one of these, the A1cardone or Beckarnley.... good choice?
http://www.theautopartsshop.com/auto...unit+1998.html
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Old 03-20-2012, 11:21 AM   #2
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i read somewhere that the 97-99 SE models are better than the NON- SE models and 95/96 models as well, not sure how true that is but something to look into.

bump for answers
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Old 03-20-2012, 01:27 PM   #3
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i had a torn boot w/ leaking ps fluid on passenger side a while back; i bought a seal kit and replaced the bad seal (with rack still on vehicle) and put on a new oe boot and no issues since. the seal kit has numerous seals in it (for both sides, internals and for the t-junction where the steering column connects). i just used one (of the two) for the main rack end and would sell you what's left of mine for less than whole kit would cost you but it will only work for you if you only have one side leaking; it sounds like both sides are gone on yours so if both sides are leaking you'll need a new seal kit to get enough for both sides.
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Old 03-20-2012, 01:49 PM   #4
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Originally Posted by J2FRESH View Post
i read somewhere that the 97-99 SE models are better than the NON- SE models and 95/96 models as well, not sure how true that is but something to look into.

bump for answers
I believe the 99 Rack and pinion > 95-98
I could be wrong though
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Old 03-20-2012, 01:55 PM   #5
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I believe the 99 Rack and pinion > 95-98
I sure hope so!
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Old 03-20-2012, 02:34 PM   #6
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i had a torn boot w/ leaking ps fluid on passenger side a while back; i bought a seal kit and replaced the bad seal (with rack still on vehicle) and put on a new oe boot and no issues since. the seal kit has numerous seals in it (for both sides, internals and for the t-junction where the steering column connects). i just used one (of the two) for the main rack end and would sell you what's left of mine for less than whole kit would cost you but it will only work for you if you only have one side leaking; it sounds like both sides are gone on yours so if both sides are leaking you'll need a new seal kit to get enough for both sides.
Iv actually considered rebuilding it, but it looks so tedious. How long did it take you, did it come with directions or did you use a write-up? Was it just take off the tire and you can get to it or did you still have to take everything apart?
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Old 03-20-2012, 04:08 PM   #7
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hummm not a bad price for a decent replacement
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Old 03-20-2012, 04:15 PM   #8
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99 > Anything.

IMO




But yes really our rack is more responsive and a stiffer/heavier feeling compared to all previous 4th gens.
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Old 03-20-2012, 04:18 PM   #9
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I am to about to replace my rack and pinion. Top two brands I see for our 4th gens is beck/arnley and A1 Cardone. which one do you guys recommend? I don't want to spend $1000+ on OEM; I doubt this car will last me 15yrs +.
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Old 03-20-2012, 04:23 PM   #10
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it took ~ 4-6 hours (but i was working slowly). you have to take off wheel, remove inner tie rod and big nut that steering rack's piston goes through and then remove seal inside there. the casing of rack where the end nut goes on is peened onto the nut so it's not real easy to unscrew. i drilled hole & used puller on the seal to get it out from the casing but if i had to do over, i would not drain ps fluid right away, but would wait until after i had mostly loosened the big nut and then i would start car and turn wheel back & forth (i believe this will "push" seal out). put big nut into freezer and it will install without much trouble, locktite inner tie rod threads. you may need a new clip for inner tie rod where it meets steering rack piston end join but i re-used mine. it's tight to work with the rack still on the car; if just the one, i'd do it with rack still on the car ; if you want to do a complet or semi-complete rebuild yourself, pull it and work on a bench...it shouldn't take more than a 8-16 hours total if you go that route. no directions with kit; there's probably a write up on rebuilding it if you pull it off of car.
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Old 03-20-2012, 04:26 PM   #11
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Our racks are stiffer and heavier eh?

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Old 03-20-2012, 07:10 PM   #12
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it took ~ 4-6 hours (but i was working slowly). you have to take off wheel, remove inner tie rod and big nut that steering rack's piston goes through and then remove seal inside there. the casing of rack where the end nut goes on is peened onto the nut so it's not real easy to unscrew. i drilled hole & used puller on the seal to get it out from the casing but if i had to do over, i would not drain ps fluid right away, but would wait until after i had mostly loosened the big nut and then i would start car and turn wheel back & forth (i believe this will "push" seal out). put big nut into freezer and it will install without much trouble, locktite inner tie rod threads. you may need a new clip for inner tie rod where it meets steering rack piston end join but i re-used mine. it's tight to work with the rack still on the car; if just the one, i'd do it with rack still on the car ; if you want to do a complet or semi-complete rebuild yourself, pull it and work on a bench...it shouldn't take more than a 8-16 hours total if you go that route. no directions with kit; there's probably a write up on rebuilding it if you pull it off of car.
WOW! yeah I figured it would be best to take it out and if thats the case I much rather just replace it with a new/reman one.... But its not entirely out of the question. Good stuff man....
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Old 03-20-2012, 11:30 PM   #13
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I've read on here that the 99 SE is supposed to have a quicker steering rack.
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Old 03-21-2012, 08:44 AM   #14
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A year ago I threw on this onremanufactured rack & pinion and it's held fine 80-00386. I paid $235 total ($185 + $50 core) for the rack. I challenged them to match a lower priced remanufactured rack I found on the internet so they knocked off $30. You can also get their rack for $15 less on ebay.

Most people squeeze it threw the driver's side wheel well but I dropped the y-pipe and crossmember bar. The lower radiator support needed replacement so might-as-well loosen that crossmember bar.

I actually just welded on a new lower radiator 6 weeks ago so dropping that 14 year old crossmemeber bar sure was easy

Last edited by jholley; 07-22-2015 at 08:18 PM.
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Old 03-21-2012, 12:55 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by jholley View Post
A year ago I threw this refurbished rack & pinion and it's held fine 80-00386. I paid $235 total ($185 + $50 core) for the rack. I challenged them to match a lower priced remanufactured rack I found on the internet so they knocked off $30. You can also get their rack for $15 less on ebay.

Most people squeeze it threw the driver's side wheel well but I dropped the y-pipe and crossmember bar. A new y-pipe was just installed 6 months earlier so dropping that took no time. The lower radiator support needed replacement so might-as-well loosen that crossmember bar.

I actually just welded on a new lower radiator 6 weeks ago so dropping that 14 year old crossmemeber bar sure was easy
Thats not bad, for the core did you have to pay for the shipping back or did they send you a return shipping label?
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Old 03-21-2012, 05:57 PM   #16
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Thats not bad, for the core did you have to pay for the shipping back or did they send you a return shipping label?
They sent a prepaid return label so they handled the charges.
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Old 03-21-2012, 09:59 PM   #17
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How can you tell if you are getting a 97-99 rack since they are better? Are there numbers or any identifying marks on the rack other than saying it came from a 97-99 vs a 96 and below? I want to be sure and ask for the right thing when I order my new rack.
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Old 03-22-2012, 04:10 PM   #18
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anyone else want to chime in on what would be a good brand to buy? or any other relatable info.... BTW, those of you that need to get yours replaced or have already replaced it, how many miles on your car? Mine has 150k, but Im sure the boots have been torn for at least 15k....
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Old 03-22-2012, 04:10 PM   #19
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They sent a prepaid return label so they handled the charges.
gotcha ya....Ill probably order online too...
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Old 03-22-2012, 04:31 PM   #20
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i was looking on my rack and pinion and it looks like the boots are torn as well and i need bushing as well, im thinking of just replacing the boots....so from what ive been reading correct me if im wrong, a 97-99 rack and pinion will fit a 95-96 maxima?
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Old 03-22-2012, 05:53 PM   #21
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rebuild it yourself (if you have the time & wherewithal)
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Old 10-14-2014, 09:53 AM   #22
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95-99 nissan maxima

I have a 95 max,5 speed, I'm about to put a 91 auto rack and pinion in will it fit? ??
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Old 10-14-2014, 09:54 AM   #23
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95-99 nissan maxima

97 max not a 91
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Old 10-14-2014, 06:41 PM   #24
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97 max not a 91
Yes a rack from a 97 will fit in a 95. They are interchangeable.
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Old 10-15-2014, 04:16 PM   #25
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Exchange it for a rebuilt or new unit...about $175-$225
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Old 07-22-2015, 08:03 PM   #26
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I had been waiting for my new ACDelco rack and pinion purchased from RockAuto, after the first one I bought online (via ebay) turned out to be a Toyota replacement that would not fit my '95 Maxima. It finally came today and it looks like the right part but my mechanic will have to determine for me because the label says it was manufactured for GM.

If I get the wrong part a 2nd time, I'm going to consider selling this car, even though I've put so much into it over the past 5-7 years. Not sure I have the patience to deal with maintenance much longer!
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Old 12-05-2016, 03:08 AM   #27
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it took ~ 4-6 hours (but i was working slowly). you have to take off wheel, remove inner tie rod and big nut that steering rack's piston goes through and then remove seal inside there. the casing of rack where the end nut goes on is peened onto the nut so it's not real easy to unscrew. i drilled hole & used puller on the seal to get it out from the casing but if i had to do over, i would not drain ps fluid right away, but would wait until after i had mostly loosened the big nut and then i would start car and turn wheel back & forth (i believe this will "push" seal out). put big nut into freezer and it will install without much trouble, locktite inner tie rod threads. you may need a new clip for inner tie rod where it meets steering rack piston end join but i re-used mine. it's tight to work with the rack still on the car; if just the one, i'd do it with rack still on the car ; if you want to do a complet or semi-complete rebuild yourself, pull it and work on a bench...it shouldn't take more than a 8-16 hours total if you go that route. no directions with kit; there's probably a write up on rebuilding it if you pull it off of car.


This is great information, and I would like to add what I was able to do on my 1999 Infinity I30. The nut on the passenger end of the rack is a 41mm, and once removed the seal can be pushed out by simply starting the car for a second, the seal pops right out. The driver side seal can not be accessed in the same way as the rack's main shaft would have to be removed since it does not have that same handy nut. Once i replaced the passenger side seal, the drivers side began to leak, go figure, this was when i tried the blue devil power steering seal, and it worked. Tried Valvoline, and Lucus prior to using the blue devil with out success. I was determined to not have to pull this rack. Just my 2 cents.
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