Go Back   Maxima Forums > Maxima Discussions > 4th Generation Maxima (1995-1999)
Sign in using an external account
Register Forgot Password?
Register Photos FAQ Timeslips Members Parts Guide Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read ExperienceUsed CarsGarageVendor Directory
Search

4th Generation Maxima (1995-1999) Visit the 4th Generation forum to ask specific questions or find out more about the 4th Generation Maxima.

Welcome to Maxima.org!
Welcome to Maxima.org,

You are currently viewing our forum as a guest, which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our community, at no cost, you will have access to start new topics, reply to conversations, privately message other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is free, fast and simple, so please join Maxima.org today!


Reply
 
 
 
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
Old 05-21-2012, 09:13 AM   #1
Newbie - Just Registered

 
Join Date: May 2012
iTrader: (0)
Posts: 4
Points: 40, Level: 1
Points: 40, Level: 1 Points: 40, Level: 1 Points: 40, Level: 1
Activity: 0.5%
Activity: 0.5% Activity: 0.5% Activity: 0.5%
Blower stopped working on automatic air conditioner '97 Maxima SE

The blower stopped working on my '97 Maxima SE with automatic air conditioning (climate control). The climate control indicators show the fan speeds; however, the blower won't start. The compressor still seems to work because if I set the temperature low and then put the system on manual it's cold.

I've taken out the glove box and pulled the blower motor amplifier (blower motor power amplifier?). Based on another article I saw, I tested it with a multimeter and saw it has 0 ohms resistance which seems to imply it's still ok.

I've also looked at the two 15A "blower" fuses from the interior fuse panel. They looked ok. I have no idea how to test relays so I ignored the one I saw under the hood for the AC.

I'm a simpleton when it comes to car repairs and I've got a limited set of tools. What and how can I do some other diagnostics to figure out what may need to be repaired?

Also, if it ends up being the blower motor, would anyone know if it's the same part number as Maximas with "manual" air conditioning systems? If it is different, would you happen to know the part number?

Thanks a lot in advance.
defphatkool is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-21-2012, 09:17 AM   #2
Carbon Fiber addict


 
The Wizard's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Southern California
iTrader: (42)
Posts: 12,410
Points: 71,374, Level: 100
Points: 71,374, Level: 100 Points: 71,374, Level: 100 Points: 71,374, Level: 100
Activity: 99.8%
Activity: 99.8% Activity: 99.8% Activity: 99.8%

If the fan is only blowing on the #4 setting, you need a new blower motor resistor.

Fairly common problem.
__________________

1999 Max SE 5-spd Supercharged/APU..Featured In Nissan Sport Magazine... 383HP
Download the Factory Service Manual (FSM) here....
The Wizard is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-21-2012, 10:13 AM   #3
Member

 
Join Date: Jan 2009
iTrader: (0)
Posts: 263
Points: 5,900, Level: 49
Points: 5,900, Level: 49 Points: 5,900, Level: 49 Points: 5,900, Level: 49
Activity: 0%
Activity: 0% Activity: 0% Activity: 0%
If the blower motor runs when you apply 12V directly to it, I would still suspect the fan control amplifier. Are you sure you saw 0 ohms and not 0L (over limit)? Set the meter to beep if it detects continuity and test it again. Also, it might be possible for the fan control amp to fail, yet still have continuity across the thermal cutout.

The most common thing to happen is the blower motor starts pulling too much current, causing the thermal cutout to open. It's best to replace the blower motor and the fan control amp, or solder a bypass wire across the thermal cutout and hope the car doesn't catch on fire.
ATTappman is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-21-2012, 12:19 PM   #4
Senior Member

 
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Plano, TX
iTrader: (2)
Posts: 6,432
Points: 18,711, Level: 86
Points: 18,711, Level: 86 Points: 18,711, Level: 86 Points: 18,711, Level: 86
Activity: 90.0%
Activity: 90.0% Activity: 90.0% Activity: 90.0%
The blower motor is the same for auto climate controls and manual controls.

Unplug the connector from the fan control amplifier. Turn the ignition switch to ON. In the wire harness connector, ground the blue/white stripe wire. The fan should run at high speed. If it doesn't, then either the fan control amplifier is bad (most likely) or the control panel is bad.

To check whether the amplifier or the control panel is bad, turn off the ignition switch and replug the wire harness connector. Turn the ignition switch back on. With a voltmeter, measure the voltage at the thin blue/yellow stripe wire on the fan control amplifier. Change the fan speed on the control panel and observe the voltage reading.

....fan / pin 2
speed / volts
----- -------
off --> 0.01
1. --> 2.6
2. --> 2.9
3. --> 3.2
4. --> 8.2

The voltage readings will vary from car to car, but will be about what I typed. The main thing is that the voltage reading changes from about zero to 8+ volts. If the voltage readings change and the fan does not run, then the fan control amplifier is bad. If the voltage readings don't change then the control panel is bad.
DennisMik is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-21-2012, 08:06 PM   #5
Member

 
Join Date: Dec 2008
iTrader: (0)
Posts: 127
Points: 3,369, Level: 36
Points: 3,369, Level: 36 Points: 3,369, Level: 36 Points: 3,369, Level: 36
Activity: 0%
Activity: 0% Activity: 0% Activity: 0%
I'm also experiencing this issue, only thing is my fan comes on when it's cool outside, when the car sits out in sun All day fan doesnt come but I can hear the compressor kicking on. Sometimes when I hit a pothole or bump on the road it'll come on. I'm also auto climate.
rf97 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-21-2012, 11:42 PM   #6
Senior Member

 
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Plano, TX
iTrader: (2)
Posts: 6,432
Points: 18,711, Level: 86
Points: 18,711, Level: 86 Points: 18,711, Level: 86 Points: 18,711, Level: 86
Activity: 90.0%
Activity: 90.0% Activity: 90.0% Activity: 90.0%
Quote:
Originally Posted by rf97 View Post
I'm also experiencing this issue, only thing is my fan comes on when it's cool outside, when the car sits out in sun All day fan doesnt come but I can hear the compressor kicking on. Sometimes when I hit a pothole or bump on the road it'll come on. I'm also auto climate.
Most likely your blower motor is bad. If the fan doesn't come on, tap on it with something (screwdriver, hammer) and see what happens. And don't be hitting it real hard.
DennisMik is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-22-2012, 08:04 PM   #7
Member

 
Join Date: Dec 2008
iTrader: (0)
Posts: 127
Points: 3,369, Level: 36
Points: 3,369, Level: 36 Points: 3,369, Level: 36 Points: 3,369, Level: 36
Activity: 0%
Activity: 0% Activity: 0% Activity: 0%
Quote:
Originally Posted by DennisMik View Post
Most likely your blower motor is bad. If the fan doesn't come on, tap on it with something (screwdriver, hammer) and see what happens. And don't be hitting it real hard.
Thanks Dennis I'll try your suggestion. I know at one time when I open and slam shut the glove box the fan used to come, but that doesn't work any more.
rf97 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-29-2012, 09:58 PM   #8
Newbie - Just Registered

 
Join Date: May 2012
iTrader: (0)
Posts: 4
Points: 40, Level: 1
Points: 40, Level: 1 Points: 40, Level: 1 Points: 40, Level: 1
Activity: 0.5%
Activity: 0.5% Activity: 0.5% Activity: 0.5%
Thanks to each person who has replied. This is great stuff.

Again, I'm new to this all. I was using an analog multimeter. One end of the scale had infinity and the other was zero ohms. When I touched the amplifier terminals with the leads it jumped from infinity to the zero side. Did I make a mistake in testing it?

I read on ehow to place the ohmmeter on the connectors for the blower motor. It said if it read 0 ohms it's probably bad (I tried that and got 0 like the amplifier). Is it better to try and put 12v across it instead to see if it runs?

Also, how do you ground a wire to test the amplifier?

Thanks again. I'm learning a lot from these posts.
defphatkool is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-30-2012, 09:36 AM   #9
Senior Member

 
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Plano, TX
iTrader: (2)
Posts: 6,432
Points: 18,711, Level: 86
Points: 18,711, Level: 86 Points: 18,711, Level: 86 Points: 18,711, Level: 86
Activity: 90.0%
Activity: 90.0% Activity: 90.0% Activity: 90.0%
You may not have been using the meter properly. Most meters, especially analog, have "ranges" or "scales" for resistance and voltage. This means that to get a correct reading, you have to know approximately what the reading should be and set the meter "range" accordingly. For example, if something had a value of 10 ohms and the meter was set on Megaohms, the meter would indicate a short circuit.

As another statement, I don't have a very high opinion of e-how.

You can test the blower motor by grounding but DO NOT ground any wires on the amplifier unless you want to replace fuses, wire harnesses and other parts. Only use voltage tests for the amplifier.

As I said in post # 4:
Unplug the connector from the fan control amplifier. Turn the ignition switch to ON. In the wire harness connector, ground the blue/white stripe wire. When I say ground the blue/white stripe wire, that means get another piece of wire that is about the same thickness as the blue/white stripe wire. Connect one end of that wire to the car's metal chassis (bare metal, not painted) and then touch the other end of that wire to the blue/white stripe wire in the un-plugged connector. The fan should run at high speed. If it doesn't, then either the fan control amplifier is bad (most likely) or the control panel is bad.

To check whether the amplifier or the control panel is bad, turn off the ignition switch and replug the wire harness connector. Turn the ignition switch back on. With a voltmeter, measure the voltage at the thin blue/yellow stripe wire on the fan control amplifier. Change the fan speed on the control panel and observe the voltage reading.

....fan / pin 2
speed / volts
----- -------
off --> 0.01
1. --> 2.6
2. --> 2.9
3. --> 3.2
4. --> 8.2
DennisMik is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-30-2012, 09:46 AM   #10
Supporting Maxima.org Member

 
Join Date: Sep 2000
iTrader: (3)
Posts: 5,468
Points: 16,782, Level: 82
Points: 16,782, Level: 82 Points: 16,782, Level: 82 Points: 16,782, Level: 82
Activity: 60.0%
Activity: 60.0% Activity: 60.0% Activity: 60.0%

Send a message via AIM to dwapenyi
Before diagnosing with complicated tests, why not try the simple stuff 1st, like Wizard suggested?

DW
dwapenyi is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-30-2012, 10:01 AM   #11
Senior Member

 
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Plano, TX
iTrader: (2)
Posts: 6,432
Points: 18,711, Level: 86
Points: 18,711, Level: 86 Points: 18,711, Level: 86 Points: 18,711, Level: 86
Activity: 90.0%
Activity: 90.0% Activity: 90.0% Activity: 90.0%
You are so right if one has a spare part to swap. If the op doesn't have a spare part, he has decision to make - buy a part or test.

However, Wizard did an oversight. The op has auto climate control, so he would need to get a Fan Control Amplifier, nor a blower motor resistor.
DennisMik is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-30-2012, 10:38 AM   #12
Newbie - Just Registered

 
Join Date: May 2012
iTrader: (0)
Posts: 4
Points: 40, Level: 1
Points: 40, Level: 1 Points: 40, Level: 1 Points: 40, Level: 1
Activity: 0.5%
Activity: 0.5% Activity: 0.5% Activity: 0.5%
Thanks for explaining things. I'm gaining a lot of respect for the mechanics on this site. I only wish I could have started here first before pulling apart the glovebox/dash.

If it ends up being the amplifier and I have access to a new blower motor, would you suggest replacing both since I've got the glovebox off?
defphatkool is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-30-2012, 10:56 AM   #13
Newbie - Just Registered

 
Join Date: May 2012
iTrader: (0)
Posts: 4
Points: 40, Level: 1
Points: 40, Level: 1 Points: 40, Level: 1 Points: 40, Level: 1
Activity: 0.5%
Activity: 0.5% Activity: 0.5% Activity: 0.5%
Oh as another sidebar, would any of you be able to tell me where the 'best points' are to place jack stands under the car? I've see where folks have put them basically on the 'rails' where the emergency jack fits. However, I've see those rails being bent as a result.

If it's not obvious, I've been through a couple cars (lemons) over the years. I've got an emotional attachment to this one (besides I'm trying to save a few bucks while learning more about repairs).
defphatkool is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-30-2012, 11:25 AM   #14
Supporting Maxima.org Member

 
Join Date: Sep 2000
iTrader: (3)
Posts: 5,468
Points: 16,782, Level: 82
Points: 16,782, Level: 82 Points: 16,782, Level: 82 Points: 16,782, Level: 82
Activity: 60.0%
Activity: 60.0% Activity: 60.0% Activity: 60.0%

Send a message via AIM to dwapenyi
Quote:
Originally Posted by defphatkool View Post
Oh as another sidebar, would any of you be able to tell me where the 'best points' are to place jack stands under the car? I've see where folks have put them basically on the 'rails' where the emergency jack fits. However, I've see those rails being bent as a result.

If it's not obvious, I've been through a couple cars (lemons) over the years. I've got an emotional attachment to this one (besides I'm trying to save a few bucks while learning more about repairs).
Here (PIC from Nissan FSM);

Click the image to open in full size.
dwapenyi is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-30-2012, 11:31 AM   #15
Supporting Maxima.org Member

 
Join Date: Sep 2000
iTrader: (3)
Posts: 5,468
Points: 16,782, Level: 82
Points: 16,782, Level: 82 Points: 16,782, Level: 82 Points: 16,782, Level: 82
Activity: 60.0%
Activity: 60.0% Activity: 60.0% Activity: 60.0%

Send a message via AIM to dwapenyi
Quote:
Originally Posted by DennisMik View Post
You are so right if one has a spare part to swap. If the op doesn't have a spare part, he has decision to make - buy a part or test.

However, Wizard did an oversight. The op has auto climate control, so he would need to get a Fan Control Amplifier, nor a blower motor resistor.
I know that the auto and manual climate control are different animals, but I also thought, because the auto climate control does have a manual mode that acts similarly to the standard non-auto climate unit, that the blower resistor would be common to both units.

If it's not, my bad.

DW
dwapenyi is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-30-2012, 11:31 AM
MaximaOrg
Nissan Maxima




Paid Advertisement
 
 
 
Reply


Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off


 




All times are GMT -7. The time now is 10:20 AM.


Maxima.org Forums Home Here you can view your subscribed threads, work with private messages and edit your profile and preferences Frequently Asked Questions on the Forums Search Find other members Registration is free! Support Maxima.org! Receive perks and benefits by donating to Maxima.org Questions? Comments?  Suggestions? Contact Us! Visit our Sponsors View and submit Maxima events Log Out of Maxima.org
Emails Backup